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Bachmann O4


Andy Y

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Notwithstanding the discussion on the cylinders & slidebars, there does appear to be a 'bend' in the connecting rod, which I assume to be for clearance purposes - I'm not sure I'm too comfortable with that kind of thing, just wondered what others felt?

Yes I saw than and thought it looked quite bad, but put it on the track and honestly you just dont see it unless the light happends to catch it. If you don't have sharp bends I'm sure you could straighten them.

Jim

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My LNER version is currently running in upstairs in the loft. I will carry out haulage tests later in between watching display acts in the distance at Biggin Hill :D

 

Must say that it is running pretty smoothly out of the box, with a slight tight spot that I hope will disappear after the first hours running.

 

Regards,

 

Dan

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Notwithstanding the discussion on the cylinders & slidebars, there does appear to be a 'bend' in the connecting rod, which I assume to be for clearance purposes - I'm not sure I'm too comfortable with that kind of thing, just wondered what others felt?

 

I think it is reasonable to gentlly bend the connecting rod so it is straight or nearly straight, there is clearance in the driving-wheel pin and at the crosshead to accomodate the fairly large lateral movement of the drivers etc on such as type2-3 curves. You can move the axles by hand to establish the limits of movement, with the wheels and rods at various points of rotation. At least that's what I do on models both Hornby and Bachmann 00 where such as connecting rod bends exist..

 

In my experience quite a lot of 00 models for type2-3 radius have connecting rods which can touch coupling rod pins, usually noticed by a mild clicking on curves, and oddly sometimes it's intermittent, occasionally quite serious, a stall or deranged rods and valve gear etc.. Sometimes the lateral movement of the driving wheels can cause a leading driver's coupling rod pin to foul a slidebar arrangement too, gentle bending of slidebar might be allowable.

 

All these parts are built to quite generous tolerances with quite flexible material, and can be bent and adjusted to some degree, at least in my experience.

 

The model looks excellent in photos here, thanks to those who posted pics. I agree also that there is room for various tweaks to improve it as with the mild weathering and better looking coal. I dare not mention slidebar angle! <g>

 

Rob

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Hey Big Jim, Has Howes already done the chip? I ask as I would like one and I sent Brian a expression of interest if they had done one.

 

I willbe very interested to see your Youtube chip when it turns up :)

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He regards it as more than acceptable. In fact, he wants more! If it was down to me I would like to sort out the cylinder/slidebar situation but it really isn't that bad.

 

I did look yesterday and although packing under the cylinders would be easy, the slidebar bracket/step moulding will need a bit of care as the moulded holes for the back of the slidebars are too low down. The steps are in the right place. So you can't just file some off the top of the bracket and raise it up. It would need new holes making, higher up.

 

Quite frankly, I wonder if it is a big enough problem to warrant the risk of messing up a very smooth running loco!

 

Is the running plate assembly (of which I presumthe steps are part) attached to the body or the chassis - if the later it sounds like a major strip down job. Can someone post the assembly diag.

For various (logistics and time) reasons I won't be getting mine for a few weeks.

 

Cylinders aside, looks a love model in motion.

 

Re bendy conrods - my Tornado had over bent rods, a gentle straightening once removed from the crank axle (not as easy as etched Hornby rods) offered an improvement, but it was trial and error with one instance of binding on 2nd rad curves.

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Well mine has had an interesting day, this morning it had a smoke generator! :O Having removed the body (very quickly), I ran it again and it's running healthily now without any smoke at all (shouldn't be something that I have to look for really is it? ;)) I don't think that it was being worked too hard, it was on a 19 wagon train on the level, at a realistic speed. Just in case if it is a fault with the batch, the signs are that the loco will slow down and will smoke out of the chimney. I'll keep it as I've weathered it and it is fine... at least now.

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He regards it as more than acceptable. In fact, he wants more! If it was down to me I would like to sort out the cylinder/slidebar situation but it really isn't that bad.

 

I did look yesterday and although packing under the cylinders would be easy, the slidebar bracket/step moulding will need a bit of care as the moulded holes for the back of the slidebars are too low down. The steps are in the right place. So you can't just file some off the top of the bracket and raise it up. It would need new holes making, higher up.

 

Quite frankly, I wonder if it is a big enough problem to warrant the risk of messing up a very smooth running loco!

 

That sounds like recommendation enough to me. Sláinte :drink_mini:

 

The mod sounds like a possible but is that enough of a motivation methinks?

I expect some clever persons will come up with a new chassis or an overlay or what have you, I mean replacement drivers are already in the offing frae AG so who knows

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Daft qiuestion perhaps. Do they need running in on a rolling road before being put under load ????????

All the manufacturers recommend a period of running in, steam or diesel before putting under load.

Usually a minimum of about 30 minutes in either direction.

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Hey Big Jim, Has Howes already done the chip? I ask as I would like one and I sent Brian a expression of interest if they had done one.

 

I willbe very interested to see your Youtube chip when it turns up :)

 

yes the chip is available now, the one i'm getting is bryans own loco, got to pick it up at banbury station next week when i stop on my way through on the wmsr!!

 

gonna video it and give it back the week after

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Is the running plate assembly (of which I presumthe steps are part) attached to the body or the chassis - if the later it sounds like a major strip down job. Can someone post the assembly diag.

For various (logistics and time) reasons I won't be getting mine for a few weeks.

 

Cylinders aside, looks a love model in motion.

 

Re bendy conrods - my Tornado had over bent rods, a gentle straightening once removed from the crank axle (not as easy as etched Hornby rods) offered an improvement, but it was trial and error with one instance of binding on 2nd rad curves.

 

I don't have a diagram but I can confirm that the running plate is attached to the boiler and cab assemblies. The footplate is cast metal and the other bits moulded plastic. They are held together with various screws. This makes me think that Bachmann are planning ahead as it comes to bits quite easily and it would be possible to put in a replacement boiler for one of the other versions, retaining the cab and footplate.

 

The steps are moulded as part of the slidebar bracket. This screws to the top of the frame block. The cylinders/slidebars/steps can all be removed by taking out a couple of screws.

 

The moulding for the steps is in that horrible soapy stuff that is quite strong but very difficult to cut and then glue.

 

The connecting rods do have a bend in them, to make sure that they clear the crankpin in the second pair of driving wheels. I think I would prefer the dodge of putting a washer between the coupling rods and the con rods on the driven axle, keeping the con rod straight, if clearance is needed.

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...

The steps are moulded as part of the slidebar bracket. This screws to the top of the frame block. The cylinders/slidebars/steps can all be removed by taking out a couple of screws.

 

The moulding for the steps is in that horrible soapy stuff that is quite strong but very difficult to cut and then glue.

...

 

Would it not be quite simple to unscrew the steps-cylinders-slidebars, carefully slide them off the crossheads and file or grind the tops of the steps, and re-assemble?

 

Rob

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Would it not be quite simple to unscrew the steps-cylinders-slidebars, carefully slide them off the crossheads and file or grind the tops of the steps, and re-assemble?

 

Rob

 

I thought it had already been noted the steps were the right height, and the suggestion was to drill new holes for the ends of the crossheads. This said, I have not seen one in the flesh yet and am carrying out 'modification by imagination'. How easy it is to drill reasonable holes in such a small part that is effectively a U shape, I don't know...!

 

On the subject of the plastic - might it be Nylon - slippy, difficult to cut, tough, and near impossible to glue?

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Well mine has had an interesting day, this morning it had a smoke generator! Having removed the body (very quickly), I ran it again and it's running healthily now without any smoke at all ... I don't think that it was being worked too hard, it was on a 19 wagon train on the level, at a realistic speed. Just in case if it is a fault with the batch, the signs are that the loco will slow down and will smoke out of the chimney. ...

Pound to a penny, that will have been one of the capacitors burning out. I have had this happen on a K3 and a 3FT, with short term admirably realistic effect, as the smoke is actually grey and reasonably dense. No ill effect to the mechanism of course.

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I know for a fact that Howes are working on one and so if I were you I'd wait and get the one of much better quality....

 

as i've pointed out a few replies up howes chip is available now and i'll have my mitts on it thursday, i'll get it youtube'd asap so everyone can have a listen, unfortuantly i've got to give it back to bryan next week, once its recorded i'll put the vid in the dcc sound section

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I thought it had already been noted the steps were the right height, and the suggestion was to drill new holes for the ends of the crossheads. This said, I have not seen one in the flesh yet and am carrying out 'modification by imagination'. How easy it is to drill reasonable holes in such a small part that is effectively a U shape, I don't know...!

 

On the subject of the plastic - might it be Nylon - slippy, difficult to cut, tough, and near impossible to glue?

 

Yes, noted, and may I tentatively suggest a style of modification to 04s generally, much used on the prototype, a generous application of large hammer or 6' crowbar by shed cleaner or other burly shed staff.... Andy's fine photos show the EM version to be pretty damn good, so it might be just a matter of tweaking the existing parts, or, as others suggest, just running it without complaint.

 

Rob

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My first one arrived in Oz today, running in as I write, looks magnificent!! Can anyone tell me the two small handrails in the detail pack belong, can't seem to see any reference on the destructions?

Cheers, Peter C.

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Hi Peter C,

Yes Mine arrived today as well and has been run in this afternoon. Then had it pulling 20 P O wagons.

 

The hand rails you mention are actually drain cocks that go on the bottom of the cylinders. You will see 2 holes. Not sure of which way they go until I check a photo. Will get back to you soon. Have been sorting Locos and rolling stock for an exhibition in two weeks at Stawell Vic.

 

regards

Mark

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