Giles Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 (edited) Now got a 600mAh battery fitted, with driver and controls.. Pallets take really quite a long time to make - much of it due to multiple passes on the laser cutter Edited September 24, 2020 by Giles 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Looking good Giles. Any idea what you may be loading yet? Martin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 Still considering....... I'm up for suggestions! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 16 hours ago, Giles said: Still considering....... I'm up for suggestions! How about a pallet of cast-iron pipe fittings? I found some free STL files which give a good range of threaded and flanged pipes and fittings, ready for 3D printing: I used them on my layout in an overhead cable gantry: But I'm sure a pallet of fresh castings (or even rusty ones for recycling or repair) would look good. 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted September 25, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2020 39 minutes ago, Fastdax said: How about a pallet of cast-iron pipe fittings? I found some free STL files which give a good range of threaded and flanged pipes and fittings, ready for 3D printing: I used them on my layout in an overhead cable gantry: But I'm sure a pallet of fresh castings (or even rusty ones for recycling or repair) would look good. Take a look at some 1:1 scale items. I have seen all sorts of bits used as loads many removed from things such as old telephones and household items. I have even used the internals from a 'pull-and-go' toy truck suitably painted. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 1 hour ago, PhilJ W said: Take a look at some 1:1 scale items. I have seen all sorts of bits used as loads many removed from things such as old telephones and household items. I have even used the internals from a 'pull-and-go' toy truck suitably painted. Reminds me of the late Allan Downes, he used all sorts of real plumbing fittings, especially on that steelworks diorama he built. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 46 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said: Reminds me of the late Allan Downes, he used all sorts of real plumbing fittings, especially on that steelworks diorama he built. Paul Rolley has done several dioramas of chemical plants, using a lot of 'repurposed' packaging containers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted September 25, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2020 8 hours ago, F-UnitMad said: Reminds me of the late Allan Downes, he used all sorts of real plumbing fittings As did Pompidou of course. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 11 hours ago, Fastdax said: How about a pallet of cast-iron pipe fittings? I found some free STL files which give a good range of threaded and flanged pipes and fittings, ready for 3D printing: I used them on my layout in an overhead cable gantry: But I'm sure a pallet of fresh castings (or even rusty ones for recycling or repair) would look good. They look great! As they were free, would you mind sharing where you found the stl file from? I fancy printing some of them myself :-) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 12 hours ago, jdb82 said: They look great! As they were free, would you mind sharing where you found the stl file from? I fancy printing some of them myself :-) I don't wish to hijack Giles' thread, but I think they came from Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4444380 and scaled down a lot. If you want more details, let's take it over to the 3D Printing forum. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Duncan, those look great! I'll have any at some of them whether I use them or not... I love that wall, by the way! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 And a narrow gauge Peckett.......... 9 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) Slide bars were the next thing to sort. I thought I had some 1mm square NS in stock, but I didn't.... making an opportunity of a problem I decided to mill them from 1mm sheet - and to mill a 'U' shape at the correct spacing to make the job much easier. These were made, cleaned up and checked.... 2020-10-16_06-19-03 by giles favell, on Flickr The bars were assembled with the cylinder end covers and fitted, ready to be silver soldered to the motion brackets for strength 2020-10-16_06-19-41 by giles favell, on Flickr Of course, with white-metal castings involved, silver-soldering at high temperatures 20mm away would inevitably melt them within a second, so Cool Paste was deployed generously to make sure they stayed safe 2020-10-16_06-20-36 by giles favell, on Flickr All went fine, and the joints were all made with a little torch, and all the castings were fine...... 2020-10-16_06-21-28 by giles favell, on Flickr It will be a coat of paint over this, then refit the axles, and fit Conn rods. Edited October 16, 2020 by Giles 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 2020-10-16_06-20-36 by giles favell, on Flickr 2020-10-16_06-21-28 by giles favell, on Flickr Sorry - problems editing...... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulleid101 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Amazing work.. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 (edited) Painted now, and with cross-heads and Conn rods fitted. It rolls as smoothly as anything - and with no fettling! I still have the lower fire-box to make and fit. 2020-10-17_06-25-08 by giles favell 2020-10-17_06-21-26 by giles favell, on Flickr Edited October 18, 2020 by Giles 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 19, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2020 Impressive as usual! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 Progress is made on the Peckett. The body parts are fully assembled, but the fire box and back sheet won't be fixed til after painting. The motor is fitted, but I haven't moved the axle gear across yet, so it's not engaged. The coal bunker in the cab will house the charging socket, the on/off switch and hopefully the receiver as well, and all the wiring will pass into the fire box which will double as a junction box! The original white metal cab roof has been discarded as it just looked rather heavy, and a brass one bade, which improves things. 5 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Giles Posted October 29, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 29, 2020 (edited) The Peckett runs extremely nicely, which is a testimony to CNC chassis work. I have also painted and almost (but not quite) finished weathering it. As usual, a rub down and polish followed by more conventional techniques (This time with water soluble oils) Edited November 2, 2020 by Giles 14 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 Denton Brook and TEOTL use pin and link couplings, as the rakes are never uncoupled. The next layout I'm not so sure...... The Loop used my own simple choppers on the locos, and bars on the wagons to allow for the tight curves. This allowed coupling up on stage, but no uncoupling. I'm well aware of Kadees etc, but for various reasons in not viable or desirable to refit all my locos that radically. I'm also well aware that I like my track to go up and down a bit in quite a rough and ready fashion! I'm therefore having a look at magnetic couplings, which may have the advantage of simply fitting in the existing pin and link castings (retained by the pin), and would be very forgiving and reliable when it comes to coupling and staying coupled. This is the first trial with magnets I happen to have - which are 2mm diameter, by about 1.5mm thick. they're a bit strong, but the principle is encouraging. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted November 7, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2020 I tried using magnets with 4mm stock. A magnet under one end of each wagon only and 3-link couplings, with an iron link at one end only. It worked very well and as the contact area, rather than being the flats of two magnets, was relatively small, uncoupling was possible by jerking the loco away but this type of running looked very unrealistic. A modified coffee stirrer worked better for uncoupling. I went back to using 3-links and manually coupling them in the end. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 4 hours ago, Giles said: Denton Brook and TEOTL use pin and link couplings, as the rakes are never uncoupled. The next layout I'm not so sure...... The Loop used my own simple choppers on the locos, and bars on the wagons to allow for the tight curves. This allowed coupling up on stage, but no uncoupling. I'm well aware of Kadees etc, but for various reasons in not viable or desirable to refit all my locos that radically. I'm also well aware that I like my track to go up and down a bit in quite a rough and ready fashion! I'm therefore having a look at magnetic couplings, which may have the advantage of simply fitting in the existing pin and link castings (retained by the pin), and would be very forgiving and reliable when it comes to coupling and staying coupled. This is the first trial with magnets I happen to have - which are 2mm diameter, by about 1.5mm thick. they're a bit strong, but the principle is encouraging. Interesting Giles. Two thoughts, first one, thin shims of plasticard over the magnets would effectively reduce their power to each other. Second thought and far more fun, just fit radio controlled brakes to the coach, that would stop it lurching to couple and hold it firm when you pull to uncouple. Easy for me to say, I will leave you to solve the problem and report back! Martin 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted November 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2020 Tiny DCC controlled electro-magnets is the way forwards. Just needs someone good with small spaces to develop it... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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