Radio Controlled locos, lorries, cranes etc. Electroplating

[Squirrel]

The servo speed is determined by the servo and by the rate of change of pulse width, so you can change its speed by slowly moving the transmitter control. There is no adjustment in the receiver, that just follows the transmitted command. There are other breeds of the servo slow, and I have one of the others. These are usually bought from "Hobbyking". These devices modify the pulse train so it takes more time than normal to shift from one position to the other. If I remember correctly the stop to stop time can be extended to about 3 seconds. They can be used in series with speed controllers so slamming in a fast forward command stil gives a gentle start.

 

Thanks to this tremendous topic, I am now poorer but some Morris trucks are on their way, as are the motor/gearboxes

Edited August 18, 2016 by Squirrel

[Giles]

Delighted to hear of your poverty - an excellent example......... The Ixo Ford Thames converts very nicely as well........ 

[Squirrel]

The Ford Thames seems a bit elusive, unless you are prepared to pay a small fortune (and it's Chinese made even then). I'll keep searching though.

[Switcher102]

You could use something like this to slow the servo movement.

Thanks for that Squirrel, I didn't know there were such things. After many readings I think I understand now. Initially I thought the servo slow was connected to the receiver and of course, at the scale of the models we are dealing with there would be no room, but now I see that they fit in the transmitter. Am I right that it is the same as the inertia control I have on my transmitter?:- http://www.deltang.co.uk/tx24a-kit.htm

 

If so, then that might solve the problem I have with a stick transmitter as I don't think they have inertia control. Would it be possible to add inertia control to a stick transmitter using a servo slow?

 

So you reckon the servo slow should be able to slow down one of these:-

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/servo.html#sm-os1300   That would be great if they could. I wonder, would they also be able to slow down sufficiently a motor on its own with no gears, or is that asking too much? Perhaps I could attach the shaft to a screw thread, I'm thinking of one of these tiny little things:-

https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/product/103-100-3mm-dc-motor-8mm-type  .... used as a servo, slowed down using a servo slow in the transmitter. If a servo slow could be fitted to a stick transmitter could it be fitted so that it was dedicated to just one channel?

 

Alternatively one of these used as a servo?:- http://www.tgauge.com/product/154/7/motor-with-gearbox  Is stopping them an issue? If they were fixed to a steering mechanism so that their travel was limited could their motors be easily burnt out? If so, could a resistor help, could a resistor be used to also slow them down? If they could be used as servos, especially the tiny little motor on its own, it would save a hell of a lot of space, which is the main problem I am having with my modelling projects, and talking of space …..

 

As well as the 1:43 scale Fiat 126 I want to motorize I have another project on the go which last week resulted in me buying my first T gauge …. yes that's T gauge …. locomotive. Within O gauge T gauge can be used to represent 5 inch gauge. I have joined the main T gauge forum, and I don't know if you can see this page:-

http://www.talkingtgauge.net/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=d0714e82cd638b83f76485813296bfcb  …. and open the threads if not a member, I think you can but just can't join in. I have used my same Username on that forum and hopefully you will be able to see two of my threads there, one called Using T Gauge within O Gauge and the other Wireless Control for T Gauge. I have got into conversation there with a guy called Kupzinger about using infrared (IR) in order to wireless control T gauge (as standard gauge, not what I am doing). It may be of interest to folk here, it certainly will for me because although I will not be using T gauge as standard gauge I aim to motorize everything on my railway. Anything that moves in the real world I aim to make move, like reversing levers on steamers, bells swinging on American locomotives, back loader lorries' deck lifting to drop load, working JCBs etc, even a driver's head turning when reversing, so micro scale wireless control will be of interest to me even though I model in O gauge. Also, if any 4mm scale modellers here fancy motorizing their road vehicles, IR would be more suitable because the receivers are smaller, and as I have linked before on this thread (and is linked again on one of my T gauge posts), it is already being done with road vehicles at HO scale, which is slightly smaller than OO scale.

 

Wheeew, that was a long one, I'm worn out now

Rich

 

 

 

[Giles]

Hi Rich,

 

I'm pretty sure the servo-slow's fit between the receiver and the servo - not at the transmitter end, but I've ordered one to have a play with.

 

It might in theory be possible to fit one between the receiver and an ADD-1 board (not direct to an ESC output) to slow the response of a (converted) reversible ESC - I don't know.

[Simond]

I'm worried about the JCB driver's head turning when he's reversing, Echoes of the Exorcist...

 

best

Simon

[Switcher102]

Hi Rich,

 

I'm pretty sure the servo-slow's fit between the receiver and the servo - not at the transmitter end, but I've ordered one to have a play with.

 

 

Ah, well if that is the case I'm buggered with that idea. They are very reluctant to give dimensions for these things but I did find this one:-

http://modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=11374&gclid=CNmBgNP21s4CFdaRGwodHoAOtQ ... which initially I thought was a micro version (which is what I Googled) but heck, at 35 x 18 x 8mm it is half the length of my Fiat.

 

Long time since I've seen The Exorcist Simon but I'm guessing he turns his head like an owl. Yes, I know about that creepiness, I'm not going to allow the driver that much head flexibility 

[Osgood]

In the unlikely event that you are wondering what on earth to do next, Giles - the saddle tank and cable drum carriers on the narrow gauge prompts this scene as your next motorisation project!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/5436394332/in/album-72157624214785241/

 

Tony

Edited September 11, 2016 by Osgood

[MarshLane]

Hi Giles,

Just spent an enjoyable hour reading through the topic and watching the videos. Totally superb - 10 out of 10 to you for what you have achieved. Wonderful.

 

I'm looking at something similar, although not R/C for my O gauge layout ... Any chance you could tell me where the wheel bearings come from. I've hunted around the bay of E but can't immediately see anything.

 

Cheers

Rich

[Giles]

Thank you Rich!

 

If you search 'miniature flanged bearings' you get a lot of choice......

 

These for instance, is what I use for the front axles

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-10-F682zz-2x5x2-3-mm-Miniature-Metal-Flanged-Ball-Bearings-2-5-2-3-/281494324685?hash=item418a5e85cd:g:lMMAAOSw1XdUYjq2

[MarshLane]

Giles,

Thats very kind of you - thanks.

 

Rich

[Squirrel]

I haven't visited rmweb for some time, but Switcher102 if you are still looking for a solution, http://diyrc.com/picaxe-slowdown.htm may help. The picture shows something quite large, but if you have the experience of surface mount components then the size could be a lot smaller using these. Connectors would be thrown out and the wires soldered directly to the board.

[Giles]

This will be next for butchery. It will get a flat-bed trailer (permanently coupled, before anyone gets any ideas!).

 

There are various aspects which will make this a little less than straight forward, amongst which will be the necessity to fit sub-frames to carry the rear axle, due to the way the model is made. I think the battery will end up going under the trailer for convenience.

 

 

Edited January 4, 2017 by Giles

[TimC]

That is going to be 'fun' to reverse!

[Giles]

I did my HGV 1 training on one of these in 1982 - so I'm hoping it will all come flooding back....!

[MarshLane]

I did my HGV 1 training on one of these in 1982 - so I'm hoping it will all come flooding back....!

Let's hope it's not crashing back! Looking forward to seeing how you progress this one.

 

Rich

[otherplanet]

I can confirm that reversing a trailer, whilst simultaneous coping with the reversed steering effect that comes from looking at a radio controlled vehicle that is facing you adds a whole extra dimension of entertainment. mainly to the onlookers.

Looks like an interesting build Giles. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

[Osgood]

I can confirm that reversing a trailer, whilst simultaneous coping with the reversed steering effect that comes from looking at a radio controlled vehicle that is facing you adds a whole extra dimension of entertainment. mainly to the onlookers.

Looks like an interesting build Giles. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

 

 

Mmm, the secret might be to face the same way as the tractor unit and use rear view mirrors!

 

[Giles]

The unit is dismantled, and the engine/diff casting chopped away to clear the motor position

 

[alastairq]

Whatever next,Giles? (Got to be a better idea than a fire engine, eh? )

[Hal Nail]

The unit is dismantled, and the engine/diff casting chopped away to clear the motor position

 

I've just bought one of these and was, naturally, about to take it apart, as you do with new toys. But for reasons which now escape me, instead I thought it would be a good idea to replace my kitchen tap at 11pm.

 

Assuming you are going to repaint eventually, had you given any thought to a source for the replacement "Bedford" wording?

Edited January 5, 2017 by Hal Nail

[Giles]

Much more useful than the fire-engine!!!

 

I'm not sure about re-painting it, although the roof will certainly need to be done.....

 

The motor is quite discrete in position.

 

[Giles]

The internal detail is very good on this model, and fortunately, I'll be able to get all the gubbins in without intruding on the cab space

 

 

All holes are cut in - for servo, charging socket and on/off switch (in the bottom of the fuel tank). none of these items are fitted yet....

 

 

The rear axle has been refitted with a new silve-rsteel axle and chopped down bevel gear - ready for the motor...

Edited January 6, 2017 by Giles

[TimC]

I haven't done much RC conversion wise over the past 2 years.  Though, my three lorries have covered a decent mileage on Giles's old layout 'The End of the Line' - 18 Shows (27 exhibition days) over 2015/16.

 

There is a chap from the Newport MRS who has started to get into 1:43 RC and has already converted his own Morris Commercial and an Austin K8 van.  If you saw Frecclesham at Warley, you may have seen them.  Steve is working on an RC Austin 7 (van, I think) and a tipping lorry at the moment - they should both be worth keeping an eye open for.  He uses a different motor gearbox (something like this) but I'm not sure how much torque they give.  We are both at Bristol O Gauge Show in a few weeks so I'll get him to drive his vehicles around TEOTL and we'll see how they handle the gradients.  The motor gearbox Steve uses is a lot smaller than the ones Giles and I use.

 

Steve's K8 took my fancy and I've have had a Thames 400e van kicking around for a while too so they have come on to the workbench.  I'm waiting for some more steering blocks from Shapeways before I can go much further (and there are a few other distractions around at the moment) but I'll try to get them running for Bigglewade (18 February).    

 

 

They are both Oxford Diescast models.  There is plenty of room in the Austin K8, in fact it is quite a big van and the normal set up should just about squeeze into the 400e.  Though, I'm going to have a play with a linear servo for the steering on the 400e (like these).  I'm looking forward to adding these two to the TEOTL stock boxes.

 

Now, another matter.  One of things I'm watching at the moment are the batteries in my lorries.  I use the same battery as Giles - one for the iPod Nano first generation.  All three of my lorries were converted between November 2014 and January 2015.  I built my own charger (it was a self build circuit kit sold on eBay - sadly, it is no longer available to my knowledge) and I fitted an ammeter to it so I could see what was going on.  I've noticed that the charging characteristics of my batteries are starting to change.  Typically, a lorry will be used for 4 hours and then I'll swap it out for another (I forgot once and the lorry was still merrily chugging away after 6 hours).  On charge it would take 250mA initially which would decay steadily and the charge cycle would be complete in about 45 minutes.  I've noticed that batteries are now only taking 150mA initially and taking longer to charge (about 90 minutes).  I've had iPhones since they first come out and never had one last more than 3 years before I've had to change the battery so I'm guessing that my lorries may be no different.  Though, I've not noticed any decrease in charge capacity yet.  No big issue as its a simple job to change the battery over but I'm certainly using new battery stock on the van conversions I'm currently doing.

 

[Giles]

Very interesting - I shall watch for that....!

 

My brother and I had an old Commer van like that, and a lovely beast it was!

 

 

 

Meanwhile, the chassis of the box trailer for the TK is very usable as a basis for a flatbed version. The mudguards were too close together for the wheel centres, and so were fouling the tyres. This was easily remedied by chopping the cross members in half, and glueing the two parts to the chassis a mite further out.

 

 

However, I had also managed to buy a fifties foreign artic with a flatbed trailer, with side bars - cheap.

 

This arrived yesterday, a little more damaged than it was before -which didn't actually matter for a change. I had thought to simply hitch this behind the TK, but when I measured it up, when hooked up, the front of the trailer was too low, as the wheels were of a larger diameter.

 

My luck was in though, as both models are obviously by the same manufacturer, and the trailer chassis are almost interchangeable. So the 'Hayes' chassis will go under the modified flatbed body.

 

 

 

The IPod Nano (1st generation) battery very neatly fits under the trailer body, having cut away a bit of the timber work. The chassis rails sit underneath this.

 

Edited January 7, 2017 by Giles