RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted Sunday at 16:05 RMweb Gold Share Posted Sunday at 16:05 24 minutes ago, Max Legroom said: Very impressive model. Has anyone managed to remove the tension lock coupler? I can’t see how to do it without cutting it off at the flexible mount. Great question will plenty of head scratching on my behalf this weekend. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted Monday at 12:26 Share Posted Monday at 12:26 Why on earth would they not provide an NEM socket, I use magnetic couplers on all my stock and will need to some up with something to solve this issue, that is if I can even get the coupler out without breaking par of the underframe which looks an issue on first attempt 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted Monday at 12:33 RMweb Premium Share Posted Monday at 12:33 5 minutes ago, LongRail said: Why on earth would they not provide an NEM socket, I use magnetic couplers on all my stock and will need to some up with something to solve this issue, that is if I can even get the coupler out without breaking par of the underframe which looks an issue on first attempt So, what - if anything- is released by the removal of the two screw behind the headstocks? CJI. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted Monday at 13:21 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 13:21 46 minutes ago, John Isherwood said: So, what - if anything- is released by the removal of the two screw behind the headstocks? CJI. In that case I'm not buying one, undoing 2 screws, that's modelling, not for me sir! Mike. 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted Monday at 13:25 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 13:25 50 minutes ago, John Isherwood said: So, what - if anything- is released by the removal of the two screw behind the headstocks? CJI. I've done that and nothing budged and I didn't want to force something a break the lovely brake gear Rapido have supplied. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkSG Posted Monday at 13:31 Share Posted Monday at 13:31 21 hours ago, Max Legroom said: Very impressive model. Has anyone managed to remove the tension lock coupler? I can’t see how to do it without cutting it off at the flexible mount. Possibly a question that's best asked by email to their customer support address, as supplied with the model. (And then post the answer here when you get it!) 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halvarras Posted Monday at 13:33 Share Posted Monday at 13:33 49 minutes ago, LongRail said: Why on earth would they not provide an NEM socket I think that, looking at the underside, the reason is clear - limited clearance. There are some wagon designs where the usual socket arrangement won't work, and the Lowmac's floor sloping down immediately behind the bufferbeams creates one of those scenarios where a bespoke coupling attachment is necessary. Even so I suspect the couplings still project a little further than we (including Rapido) would prefer..... 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BluenGreyAnorak Posted Monday at 13:51 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 13:51 (edited) 9 hours ago, LongRail said: Why on earth would they not provide an NEM socket, I use magnetic couplers on all my stock and will need to some up with something to solve this issue, that is if I can even get the coupler out without breaking par of the underframe which looks an issue on first attempt I suspect that this post from the thread about the similar Loriot wagon answers this question, and provides more detail about the NEM standard that it still meets: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/168973-gwr-loriot-y/page/5/#comment-5221914 Essentially though, there's no space for a socket on this prototype. Edited Monday at 21:43 by BluenGreyAnorak 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obadiah Posted Monday at 15:19 Share Posted Monday at 15:19 Wow, after comparing the new Lomac to the old K's version, in other words about four and a half pounds of white metal, you realise just how far we've come in the last fifty odd years! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkSG Posted Monday at 15:52 Share Posted Monday at 15:52 30 minutes ago, Obadiah said: Wow, after comparing the new Lomac to the old K's version, in other words about four and a half pounds of white metal, you realise just how far we've come in the last fifty odd years! Somewhere in one of the boxes in the garage I have a scratchbuilt lowmac. I was, at the time, quite proud of it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted Monday at 16:31 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 16:31 (edited) 3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: In that case I'm not buying one, undoing 2 screws, that's modelling, not for me sir! Mike. Problem is, access to the screws is blocked by the crossbars of the brake yokes, so it's not quite that simple.... I'll get it done, probably using a 30-series Kadee, or a bodged #20 using the screw provided or a longer one with a similar thread. However, I'm still pondering how to do it without losing half the brake detail. Anybody know if the yokes unclip? Edited Monday at 16:38 by Dunsignalling 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted Monday at 16:34 RMweb Premium Share Posted Monday at 16:34 2 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said: Problem is, access to the screws is blocked by the crossbars of the brake yokes, so it's not quite that simple.... I'll get it done, but I'm still pondering how to do it! Jeweller's screwdriver - at a slight angle. John Isherwood. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkSG Posted Monday at 16:38 Share Posted Monday at 16:38 2 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said: Problem is, access to the screws is blocked by the crossbars of the brake yokes, so it's not quite that simple.... I'll get it done, but I'm still pondering how to do it! As per the thread linked above by @BluenGreyAnorak, these appear to be NEM 363 fittings, which are specifically designed for cases where there isn't enough space for the standard NEM 362 fittings (the ones we typically refer to as "NEM pockets"). So you shouldn't need to unscrew anything to get them off, it is still a form of clip fitting. I have no idea how to remove an NEM 363 coupling, though, and I can't work it out even after looking at them closely. This is the sort of thing where a YouTuber could possibly do a helpful video - I imagine there's some kind of knack to it that isn't immediately obvious. But, also, I would expect Rapido's customer support to be able to offer advice. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted Monday at 16:44 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 16:44 (edited) 1 hour ago, MarkSG said: As per the thread linked above by @BluenGreyAnorak, these appear to be NEM 363 fittings, which are specifically designed for cases where there isn't enough space for the standard NEM 362 fittings (the ones we typically refer to as "NEM pockets"). So you shouldn't need to unscrew anything to get them off, it is still a form of clip fitting. I have no idea how to remove an NEM 363 coupling, though, and I can't work it out even after looking at them closely. This is the sort of thing where a YouTuber could possibly do a helpful video - I imagine there's some kind of knack to it that isn't immediately obvious. But, also, I would expect Rapido's customer support to be able to offer advice. The couplings should come out of the mount simply enough, though I've not tried to yet. My problem is that I'll need the mount gone to make room for whatever I devise to replace it! I could have a pair of Whisker Kadees on it inside an hour, but at the cost of more collateral damage than I'm willing to accept. Edited Monday at 17:47 by Dunsignalling 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted Monday at 16:48 RMweb Premium Share Posted Monday at 16:48 7 minutes ago, MarkSG said: As per the thread linked above by @BluenGreyAnorak, these appear to be NEM 363 fittings, which are specifically designed for cases where there isn't enough space for the standard NEM 362 fittings (the ones we typically refer to as "NEM pockets"). So you shouldn't need to unscrew anything to get them off, it is still a form of clip fitting. I have no idea how to remove an NEM 363 coupling, though, and I can't work it out even after looking at them closely. This is the sort of thing where a YouTuber could possibly do a helpful video - I imagine there's some kind of knack to it that isn't immediately obvious. But, also, I would expect Rapido's customer support to be able to offer advice. See I still think that the solution for removing the existing coupling is to remove the mounting screws. John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted Monday at 16:53 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 16:53 6 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said: The couplings should come out of the mount simply enough, though I've not tried to yet. There's no clearance between them and the crossbar. I wonder if the bar unclips at the nearest to the camera end ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted Monday at 16:54 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 16:54 18 minutes ago, John Isherwood said: Jeweller's screwdriver - at a slight angle. John Isherwood. There's still a need to wiggle the mount out past/through the brake details! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted Monday at 17:07 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 17:07 3 minutes ago, gwrrob said: There's no clearance between them and the crossbar. I wonder if the bar unclips at the nearest to the camera end ? I think that's doable so long as you don’t mind cutting the coupling away from its dovetail, then picking the latter out of the mount. The alternative is to remove the crossbar (it doesn't appear to be a clip-fit) and reinstate it afterwards, and I'm (provisionally) OK with doing that. The bit I don't like the look of is the yoke, which is in the way of what I think I want to do and will.be difficult to make good. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted Monday at 17:08 Share Posted Monday at 17:08 4 hours ago, LongRail said: Why on earth would they not provide an NEM socket, I use magnetic couplers on all my stock and will need to some up with something to solve this issue, that is if I can even get the coupler out without breaking par of the underframe which looks an issue on first attempt No one has mentioned that it appears that they wanted to make some representation of the centrally mounted vacuum cylinder for those wanting to change to using proper couplings - Screw see https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brlowmacep/e376b780e Paul 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted Monday at 17:49 RMweb Premium Share Posted Monday at 17:49 50 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said: There's still a need to wiggle the mount out past/through the brake details! If only I had a quid for every bit of wiggling undertaken during 65 years of modelling! With a subject such as the LOWMAC, some intricate disposition of detail was inevitable. There is always the option of the Hornby Dublo / Wrenn version for those who prefer not to wiggle. John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted Monday at 17:53 Share Posted Monday at 17:53 43 minutes ago, hmrspaul said: No one has mentioned that it appears that they wanted to make some representation of the centrally mounted vacuum cylinder for those wanting to change to using proper couplings - Screw see https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brlowmacep/e376b780e Paul Except the cylinder is obscured by a square block of plastic 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted Monday at 17:55 RMweb Premium Share Posted Monday at 17:55 Just now, LongRail said: Except the cylinder is obscured by a square block of plastic ....as Paul said; "for those wanting to change to using proper couplings". John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted Monday at 17:58 Share Posted Monday at 17:58 (edited) Cross bar comes out with the aid of a scalpel cutting off at both ends will have to glue back after I have solved how I solve the magnetic coupling issue. Sorry image is upside down tried correcting but it doesn’t want to rotate Edited Monday at 18:07 by LongRail 1 1 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted Monday at 18:31 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 18:31 32 minutes ago, LongRail said: Cross bar comes out with the aid of a scalpel cutting off at both ends will have to glue back after I have solved how I solve the magnetic coupling issue. Sorry image is upside down tried correcting but it doesn’t want to rotate There you go @LongRail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted Monday at 19:17 RMweb Gold Share Posted Monday at 19:17 Some of us have got to get the wheels out as well! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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