N gauge semaphores controlled by wire? Is it possible?

[Leicester Thumper]

Hello, 

 

This might seem like a silly question, but I only ask to save my sanity over thinking the situation. 

 

Now, I'm researching this for later on, my layout is in a fledgling stage, and I'm nowhere near installing signals yet, but I already knowill only need a max of 4 for whati would like to do. This will either be 2x single arm starter signals and 1 x Junction home, or 2x Junction home starters. 

 

What wished to ask was, is it easy enough to do wire control for signals in N gauge? I know ratio do a system in OO, but is there comparatively a system for N gauge? 

 

Wire control would suit my economics and the ergonomics of my layout. 

 

Thanks.

[Joseph_Pestell]

This is not a matter of scale so the Ratio system can work perfectly well. You may need to drill an extra hole in any crank to reduce the amount of throw.

[Gareth Collier]

Ratio produce the remote control kit for N gauge as well, possibly ref 250.

[Izzy]

With using mechanical means - (I favour loose rodding rather than say wire-in-tube) - I have found it best to have a relatively large throw at the lever end, wherever that may be situated, and use cranks and omega loops to absorb any excess travel at the point/signal being operated. The advantage is that this can even out/allow for expansion contraction due to temperature changes. DPDT slider switches can be good and cheap levers. Just drill a horizontal hole through the switch and glue the wire/rodding into it. For pointwork the switch can be used to change crossing/frog polarity.

 

Bob

[Leicester Thumper]

11 hours ago, Joseph_Pestell said:

This is not a matter of scale so the Ratio system can work perfectly well. You may need to drill an extra hole in any crank to reduce the amount of throw.

 

9 hours ago, Gareth Collier said:

Ratio produce the remote control kit for N gauge as well, possibly ref 250.

 

Thanks both, I shall look into that further 

 

9 hours ago, Izzy said:

With using mechanical means - (I favour loose rodding rather than say wire-in-tube) - I have found it best to have a relatively large throw at the lever end, wherever that may be situated, and use cranks and omega loops to absorb any excess travel at the point/signal being operated. The advantage is that this can even out/allow for expansion contraction due to temperature changes. DPDT slider switches can be good and cheap levers. Just drill a horizontal hole through the switch and glue the wire/rodding into it. For pointwork the switch can be used to change crossing/frog polarity.

 

Bob

 

I shall also consider these thoughts. The distance between lever and signal won't be that great, however your point of omega loops and contraction are definitely considerations I had not thought of.

 

Many thanks