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Humbrol enamel paint - the future


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In addition to @cctransuk's method, if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaning bath, then placing the can (with lid on) in the bath can help disperse the pigments but I doubt many machines will shift the pigment if caked at the bottom.  You would need to get that beginning to break up first with a good stir right to the bottom of the tin.  

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23 minutes ago, Andy Hayter said:

In addition to @cctransuk's method, if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaning bath, then placing the can (with lid on) in the bath can help disperse the pigments but I doubt many machines will shift the pigment if caked at the bottom.  You would need to get that beginning to break up first with a good stir right to the bottom of the tin.  

 

I use a paperclip, bent to form a triangle with a long stem; the latter is fitted into a minidrill.

 

WITH THE POWER OFF, dig the hardened pigment out of the bottom of the tin into the carrier liquid, and break it up as small as possible.

 

Then, applying very little power, start to mix the pigment into the liquid - go very carefully, or you and your surroundings will receive the contents of the tin! 😠

 

When the pigment starts to combine with the liquid, gradually increase the speed of the minidrill - but beware centrifugal force!

 

It may take several minutes, but the pigment WILL eventually recombine, to restore the paint to its intended constituency.

 

..... and, unless you leave it to stand for half a lifetime, it will require far less stirring in future!

 

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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34 minutes ago, TJ52 said:

Tried stirring my Humbrol matt white with an old screwdriver. No residue on the bottom, still the same result. 

 

Won't be buying Humbrol again.

 

Terry

 

Odd - I must have used several hundreds of tins over the years, and currently have a drawer full - never a dud.

 

John Isherwood.

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I think availability of lead solder will depend where you look.

 

Plumbers' solder has largely/completely changed to lead free, so if you are used to buying solder from a plumbers' or builders'  merchant, lead solder will probably not be available.

 

However if you go to electronic component suppliers, 40:60 lead solder is widely available.

 

If you go to model shops, then I know some went with lead free solders but some / many still have lead solder available. 

 

That picture may well depend on which country you live in though, where some national authorities have passed laws to speed up the move to a lead free environment.   

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I read somewhere that the electronics industry doesn't like lead-free solder. Apparently a 'growth' occurs with time and joints fail, also good solder joints are more difficult causing rework, especially on automatic soldering machines. Because of this they refer 60/40 solder.

Edited by stewartingram
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18 hours ago, stewartingram said:

I read somewhere that the electronics industry doesn't like lead-free solder. Apparently a 'growth occurs wit time and joints fails, also good solder joints are more difficult causing rework, especially on automatic soldering machines. Because of this they refer 60/40 solder.

 

Ended up killing games consoles due to brittleness, had to buy another PS3 after reflowing enough to get data off

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