Advice on removing ‘scuff marks’ - ÖBB 1014

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I guess many of us these days will have at least one locomotive in our collections that doesn’t quite fit what we’re modelling - perhaps a gift or donation, a personal favourite or simply a bargain that caught the eye.  Although I have fewer than 12 locomotives at the moment, the No. 11 tailender’s slot is currently occupied by just such a beast - a Roco HO ÖBB 1014 (catalogue no. 72474):

 

 

It’s a bit too new for my rolling stock, but as a recent catalogue item (c. 2016 / 2017) was being offered at a very attractive price in nearly new condition and runs perfectly, so is definitely a “rule one” purchase.  Of all the locomotive designs I can think of, it is the one that (to me at least) most resembles a motorcar, especially when the single piece windscreen is viewed front on:

 

 

Trouble is, the convex curve on said windscreen means it has picked up what look like ‘scuff marks’ from the polystyrene packaging, visible in front of the driver in this picture - you can see they are only on one side (and are the same at the other end):

 

 

I’ve been trying to think if there’s a way of removing them without any damage to the windscreen, or surrounding paintwork.  The best I’ve come up with is using ordinary spectacle lens cleaner (the same I use for my glasses).  I’ve squirted a bit onto some clean tissue paper and given the windows a rub.  It seems to have cleared most of the marks very well - certainly cleaner than my own glasses are:

 

 

Question is, is this a wise move?  Is there a better, generally used approach?  Or are some scuff marks a) almost inevitable with polystyrene packaging and b) ultimately irremovable?

 

I didn’t want to cut away the packaging, as there has to be a possibility I’ll want to trade this loco on at some point if a more appropriate alternative becomes available and box quality seems to be a feature when selling.  I have ‘squashed’ the polystyrene a bit to make room for some tissue paper to protect the loco.  Again, is there a particular type of tissue paper to use or avoid?  I’ve used regular Kleenex Balsam as we have it to hand.  As I have a number of projects running in parallel, and no standard gauge layout at present, my locos can spend long periods in storage.

 

A final photo from above to show the window profile (after cleaning):

 

 

As always, any wisdom / advice is greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Keith.

___________________________________________

 

Prototype note: I only came across this short-lived class of loco quite recently, so for anyone else not familiar with them, they were a small class of 18 locos built in the early / mid 1990s primarily for services from Wien into Hungary.  I believe this particular loco is one of three that were repainted into City Airport Train (CAT) livery for a while, before picking up the “post-Pflatsch” written logo when repainted in red and white (I think in 2006).  Their operating lives were cut short by the Taurus locos, as I understand it, and they were sold on.  Interestingly, the only photo I’ve yet found online of an ÖBB 1014 in service alongside a Taurus was taken in Bratislava, not in Austria at all.

 

[duff man]

Hi Keith, looking at the photo's the marks are hardly noticeable, I would think cleaning them with lens cleaner has removed any dirt that was lodged in the marks. My take on this is toothpaste any scratches I find in clear plastic are treated to a little toothpaste on an ear bud and gently rubbed in then polished of repeat this a couple of times and you should get a high clear polished look. you won't damage the Perspex however to prove the process to yourself  try it on some scrap material first.

The 1014 is one of my favorites too, mine is also the same livery version as yours which aren't that easy to find.

Have funn. 

[andyman7]

The advice from @duff man sounds good, as regards the packing I would use a wrap of tissue to insulate the model from the foam liner - the acid-free stuff sold in art shops etc is ideal, I keep a stash as it is very handy to have.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

My thanks to @duff man and @andyman7 for your replies - very helpful, thank you.  
 

I would never have thought of trying toothpaste.  As suggested, it may well be worth testing on a piece of scrap first.  Should I polish it for the full two minutes, I wonder?

 

Thanks also for the advice regarding tissue paper - I mentioned it to my wife and she knows of the acid free paper from hobby shops.  I’ll remove the regular tissue paper I put in the box the other day before I forget, and see if I can get some of the acid free (it’ll be useful for other models too).

 

Much appreciated - one thing I’ve already learned buying and selling a few Continental stock items is that owners do look after them well, and I’d want to honour that with my small collection too.  Thanks, Keith.

[43179]

Having taken lots of Roco stuff to bits - I'd be surprised if the windscreen is glued in . Roco stuff generally clips together - often glazng is a friction fit  with the cab interor locking it all in place - so it should come out and then you can polish it without any worries about harming the bodyshell .

I'd get a little bottle of this stuff (it's useful) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154643555742?var=454728223738&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=QTeyewkWAAAAAZpsMR5NEH5VpYIWAAAAAA  and try it with a cotton bud,  I originally bought it to restore some old car parts - but its ended up being used on model glazing as well

I totally agree - the 1014s   and the similar 1822s are seriously lovely lookings things!

 

Regards

Jon 

Edited April 1, 2023 by 43179

[Keith Addenbrooke]

21 hours ago, 43179 said:

Having taken lots of Roco stuff to bits - I'd be surprised if the windscreen is glued in . Roco stuff generally clips together - often glazng is a friction fit  with the cab interor locking it all in place - so it should come out and then you can polish it without any worries about harming the bodyshell .

I'd get a little bottle of this stuff (it's useful) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154643555742?var=454728223738&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=QTeyewkWAAAAAZpsMR5NEH5VpYIWAAAAAA  and try it with a cotton bud,  I originally bought it to restore some old car parts - but its ended up being used on model glazing as well

I totally agree - the 1014s   and the similar 1822s are seriously lovely lookings things!

 

Regards

Jon 

Thank you @43179, a very useful product by the look of it.

 

I must admit I try not to take modern locos apart if I can help it - on one of my American HO diesels that came with the body and chassis packed separately, three of the fixing clips snapped just trying to get the body on for the first time, after it had spent several years in storage (I bought it second hand unopened).  That said, I have found with Bemo H0m (locos and coaches) and Roco H0 coaches that glazing is clipped in, so I’d agree it’s unlikely to be glued in place.

 

Thanks, Keith.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I mentioned in the opening post that this locomotive was an 'outlier' in my collection.  All my other HO items are suitable for Germany / Switzerland / western Austria (Tyrol), whereas these locos were built for services eastwards from Wien into Hungary and Budapest.  To raise funds for other items on my 'must have' list, I'm therefore offering this for sale through RMweb classifieds, if anyone is interested.  Thanks, Keith:

 

 

Edit: please note, as of 18th July I’ve reduced the asking price to facilitate a sale.  Thanks.

 

Pleased to say that the loco sold quickly through RMweb classifieds and is now on the way to a fellow RMweb member who has a very good collection of Continental locomotives, Keith.

 

Edited July 19, 2023 by Keith Addenbrooke
19th July 2023 - Sold