Hornby Black 5 R061 help required

[barney121e]

3 hours ago, The Johnster said:

More likely to be a quartering issue as the rods bind and pull or push the wheels off the axles.  Is it the pickup or dead side of the loco chassis?; knowing this might help to isolate an axle/wheel hub interface problem.  Wear between the axles and wheels occurs when you take the wheels off the axles off the axles; Hornby never intended for you to do this, and would have sold you a complete replacement wheelset but this will have been unavailable for many years now. 

 

Undersized back to back measurement means that the wheels are too narrow in gauge, and are possibly fouling on parts of the chassis or pulling the conrods inwards and causing them to bind or twisiting the crosshead to jam on the slide bars.  To get them to gauge you have to force them outwards on the axles, ensuring that they remain square to the axle and retain their quartering, not easy.  The trouble with this sort of older loco is that you can't get the spares, or if you can they are suffering from the same issues as you are trying to solve, and you end up chasing bad money with good and wasting time and effort to no productive end.  It is difficult to admit defeat, or make the decision to stop the project and write it off to experience before it goes too far.  Sourcing parts sucks time, and is frustrating.  Sometimes it's better to give up early and use your time and cash on stuff that will work!

 

Not what you want to hear, and not much help I'm afraid, but I calls 'em as I sees 'em, and trying to give you the best advice I can.

 

Shed lurker.

 

3 hours ago, 33C said:

The centre crankpin must have all the spacers on to prevent the rods popping out. Make sure the centre crankpin is fully extended through the wheel by checking the rear of the wheel, the shoulder of same should be seated snuggly in the recess. A spot of superglue holds it firm if necessary. If no power is getting to the motor, check if a sprung, brass washer is present under the drawbar, and the surfaces are clean/shiny. As for the back to backs, does the chassis run through the points OK? As for the original chassis, I would go back to basics and completely strip it down, bushes and all. Draw a cross on a piece of card, 90° and 180° exactly. Put under the live wheel/axle with it's boss at bottom. Put a new Bush in the insulated wheel and place on the axle end, aligned with the line at the 90° mark. Light pressure to hold and then close up in a vice ensuring the wheel bosses are out of the jaws to prevent wobbly wheels! The back to back gauge can be placed in/on the vice to give accuracy. Remember, it came out of the factory fine and can be fine again. You may be missing something obvious so start at the beginning! Good luck. Quartering is not a black art and the more times I do it the easier it gets! 

Thanks

 

Going to put it in a box and revisit things down the line. I will probably get some spare bushes etc and work from there, although someone mentioned converting it to run differently, so will explore that a same time. Thnaks for everyones help and opinions.

[Butler Henderson]

6 hours ago, The Johnster said:

More likely to be a quartering issue as the rods bind and pull or push the wheels off the axles.  Is it the pickup or dead side of the loco chassis?; knowing this might help to isolate an axle/wheel hub interface problem.  Wear between the axles and wheels occurs when you take the wheels off the axles off the axles; Hornby never intended for you to do this, and would have sold you a complete replacement wheelset but this will have been unavailable for many years now. 

 

 

Not correct as the axle fits through the chassis block so a complete wheelset cannot simply be fitted.

[barney121e]

So after leaving in box for 3 months, i decided to revisit the black 5 this week. Ordered a couple of small parts and then began tinkering again. First worked on the silver seal engine and gave it a good service. Still rather noisy, might go down the cd conversion route to hopefully get it running better. 

 

Then put new bushes in a couple of the wheels, gave the chassis etc a real good clean and tested and train ran. Only issue left was the coupling rods, but after a few attempts have got them working as well.

 

Just goes to show that with a little perseverance i can resurrect a dead engine.