TheTalkinLens' North Eastern Railway workbench

[thetalkinlens]

51 minutes ago, MarkC said:

Here's a couple of shots of my attempt at the V4 van. Some filling and fettling still required - and guard rails - before topcoating, but still...

 

Will be finished once home - and the long-haired Admiral's work list has been done...

 

Mark

 

Looks good Mark, thanks for posting. Will you apply the NER livery in the photo that exists of the van or go for LNER period?

 

Mine has now been painted and is ready for couplings to go in, transfers and then some weathering. I need to get some custom transfers sent off as I have N.E.R. in 6" size, but not in the require 9". I replaced the chimney using some plasticard rod and the torpedo air vents are 3d prints found online.

 

 

[MarkC]

Good question. I may well go for LNER period, as I have a NER birdcage brake, and goods traffic wasn't exactly heavy along the S & W. Will decide once I sort out what wagons we have, and for what periods.

 

Cheers

Mark

 

 

[thetalkinlens]

I didn't have the right size lettering to finish the U16 (V4 prototype) brake van, so decided it was about time I progressed my own self prepared transfer sheet.

 

The results of that are shown below. A bit of an experiment, including printing with both white and black. http://www.precisionlabels.com were used for the printing and I'm pretty please with how well they have come out.

 

The sheet has a number of generic letters and numbers for future wagon builds, but also some specific numbers for wagons I intend to build in the near future.

 

 

Here are the transfers applied to the U16 van, which really just needs weathering now. Although the duckets could do with their windows. I was wondering how to achieve something half acceptable for this and was wondering about a further waterslide transfer print in black for them.

 

 

[Chas Levin]

Nice job on that transfer sheet - I've found Precision Labels excellent too, very helpful, quick and reasonably priced, top notch work (usual disclaimer, no connection, just a happy customer!).

[thetalkinlens]

13 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

Nice job on that transfer sheet - I've found Precision Labels excellent too, very helpful, quick and reasonably priced, top notch work (usual disclaimer, no connection, just a happy customer!).

 

Yes, I would agree. I needed to make a few amends to get the pdf file in the right format, especially with it having both black and white ink which needed to be on a page per colour. The transfers had arrived on my doorstep a couple of days after payment. Excellent service.

[thetalkinlens]

A quick makeover job for one of the five second hand Slater's P7's I picked up a while back.

 

This one was originally numbered 54143, but in a livery the P7's never carried (despite the Slater's instructions and transfer sheet suggesting otherwise):

 

 

So I scraped off the transfers and repainted it a much lighter grey and applied my own custom transfers:

 

 

Followed by a heavy covering in soot weathering powder before sealing in:

 

 

The coal load is using crushed real coal on a platform made from plasticard and is removeable:

 

 

Edited August 29, 2023 by thetalkinlens

[thetalkinlens]

I've been working on this scratch built North Eastern Railway weigh hut over the last couple of weeks. The model is entirely plasticard apart from the glass of the windows. The downpipes and chimney pot are from Modelu.

 

There were three weigh huts to this design on the Pickering to Seamer branch. Two of those three survive. One at Ebberston and the other at Wykeham. Here is a photo of the one at Wykeham, which retains it's full height chimney stack and pot.

 

 

My model is intended for Sawdon, the hut of the three which has been demolished.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 4, 2023 by thetalkinlens

[rustynuts]

The transfers look great and as I have a load of hoppers etc to do is it possible to get a set for myself?

 

Many regards

 

Paul

[thetalkinlens]

12 hours ago, rustynuts said:

The transfers look great and as I have a load of hoppers etc to do is it possible to get a set for myself?

 

Many regards

 

Paul

 

I'll drop you a pm Paul.

[thetalkinlens]

I've been spending most of my modelling time over the last month working on the North Eastern Railway Station building to accompany the goods warehouse and weigh hut further up thread. Here is progress so far. For anyone who's been following @Worsdell forever's Chop Yat thread, I'm sure the station building will look familiar!

 

 

There is still a very long way to go with this scratch build. I'm going to work on the chimney's next.

[thetalkinlens]

A friend donated this scratch built N.E.R. Diagram 111 straight sided / matchboard bogie coach. It is currently in LNER brown, but I would like to change it to NER crimson lake. It's not an incredibly refined build, but I'd like to use it to practice on.

 

The model all comes apart nicely, so painting shouldn't be too difficult, however the matchboard effect is currently ink lines on a flat piece of (I assume) plasticard. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to achieve the matchboard panelling in a more effective way? I have my doubts if I redrew the lines that I'd get them consistently spaced as I'd like.

 

I was thinking 1mm spaced plasticard boarding would look about right, however the 0.5mm (20 thou) thick Slater's boarding is too thick to place on top of the existing sides.

 

[Jon4470]

36 minutes ago, thetalkinlens said:

A friend donated this scratch built N.E.R. Diagram 111 straight sided / matchboard bogie coach. It is currently in LNER brown, but I would like to change it to NER crimson lake. It's not an incredibly refined build, but I'd like to use it to practice on.

 

The model all comes apart nicely, so painting shouldn't be too difficult, however the matchboard effect is currently ink lines on a flat piece of (I assume) plasticard. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to achieve the matchboard panelling in a more effective way? I have my doubts if I redrew the lines that I'd get them consistently spaced as I'd like.

 

I was thinking 1mm spaced plasticard boarding would look about right, however the 0.5mm (20 thou) thick Slater's boarding is too thick to place on top of the existing sides.

 

Interesting project.

 

I’m not sure if these were painted NER lake. I’ll check when I get home,  but I have a suspicion that they were teak when built.

 

As for the matchboard panelling…..consistency is they key I think (rather than the exact number of boards). Perhaps a marking out jig? Dots top and bottom of the panel and then “join the dots”. 
It’s possible that a handrail jig might have the correct spacing- worth checking (if you have one)

 

Jon

[thetalkinlens]

43 minutes ago, Jon4470 said:

Interesting project.

 

I’m not sure if these were painted NER lake. I’ll check when I get home,  but I have a suspicion that they were teak when built.

 

As for the matchboard panelling…..consistency is they key I think (rather than the exact number of boards). Perhaps a marking out jig? Dots top and bottom of the panel and then “join the dots”. 
It’s possible that a handrail jig might have the correct spacing- worth checking (if you have one)

 

Jon

 

Thanks @Jon4470, I was half hoping you'd spot my post! I was fairly sure that these would have been lake. I'll have to check NER Record Vol.2, but was under the impression that after a certain (fairly early) date, all NER coaching stock was painted in lake. ECJS of course would have been teak.

 

From what I've read, the matchboard stock was all built for excursion traffic.

 

Here's a link to David Berner's own scratch build of one which he's done in lake:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNvGJwtH9k6/?img_index=1

 

I don't have a handrail jig, but rigging up some kind of jig may be the way to do it. I was wondering if scoring the lines rather than re-drawing them with ink would look better.

[MarkC]

3 hours ago, thetalkinlens said:

A friend donated this scratch built N.E.R. Diagram 111 straight sided / matchboard bogie coach. It is currently in LNER brown, but I would like to change it to NER crimson lake. It's not an incredibly refined build, but I'd like to use it to practice on.

 

The model all comes apart nicely, so painting shouldn't be too difficult, however the matchboard effect is currently ink lines on a flat piece of (I assume) plasticard. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to achieve the matchboard panelling in a more effective way? I have my doubts if I redrew the lines that I'd get them consistently spaced as I'd like.

 

I was thinking 1mm spaced plasticard boarding would look about right, however the 0.5mm (20 thou) thick Slater's boarding is too thick to place on top of the existing sides.

 

That's rather splendid! Does anyone know if these were these vehicles built for a particular service, or could they be seen across the NER network?

 

Mark

[thetalkinlens]

8 minutes ago, MarkC said:

That's rather splendid! Does anyone know if these were these vehicles built for a particular service, or could they be seen across the NER network?

 

Mark

 

Built for excursion traffic I believe Mark, so could be seen anywhere an excursion would go I'd imagine. There's an article in the NERA digital archive about straight sided stock - "NERA 4360.pdf" is the title which should come up in a search.

[MarkC]

3 minutes ago, thetalkinlens said:

 

Built for excursion traffic I believe Mark, so could be seen anywhere an excursion would go I'd imagine. There's an article in the NERA digital archive about straight sided stock - "NERA 4360.pdf" is the title which should come up in a search.

Ooh, interesting. Thank you very much.

 

Cheers

Mark

[jwealleans]

Weren't these known at one time as 'immigrant stock' and used to ferry migrants to the US from Hull to Liverpool?   I have a feeling that traffic largely predated the LNER.   I do have a picture of 6 or 7 of these with the matching brake at the head (and presumably tail, it's not visible) heading south from York behind a C7 as a special/excursion.

[Jon4470]

Hi Ian

 

My mistake….Vol 2 does say they were in Crimson Lake….think I got confused with the older 4 wheel and 6 wheel carriages that were used for excursions. 

 

I agree with @jwealleans these were built for the Hull to Liverpool immigrant trains. I’m not sure how often the immigrant trains ran though……I guess that the carriages may have been used on excursions if not required on the Hull Liverpool run. I think the traffic ceased because of WW1.  After that I assume they were used for general excursion traffic and possibly as strengtheners (that’s what I plan to use my example for🙂).

I’ll be reading the article that you referenced though….the straight sided stock may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they do add interest to a train. I’d like to build the touring camping coach…..but that’s another story and colour scheme.!
 

 

Jon

 

 

[thetalkinlens]

Thanks @Jon4470 and @jwealleans. It would be interesting to find some more information on the immigrant trains.

 

There is a photo in the NERA article I mentioned of a Class S2 No.786 with a C1 fish wagon, followed by two N.E.R. matchboard bogie coaches, the second of these could be a diagram 111. The remainder of the very long train (at least 9 more coaches) is standard NER bogie elliptical and clerestory stock.

 

D&S have done the diagram 111 (DS196). There is one on eBay currently (unbuilt) for a very high figure!

 

Any other thoughts on achieving the matchboard effect would be much appreciated.

[thetalkinlens]

I had a bit of a snowplough themed Christmas this year. The NERA snowplough book and a second NIU models NER snowplough to pair up with the one I got last Christmas (link back thread to that one) were waiting under the tree.

 

First of all though, I was never very happy with the supplied transfers the plough came with. The type size and weight wasn't as close as it could be and I did a pretty poor job of applying them. So I decided to prepare my own...

 

Here is my first plough (No.18) with the original as supplied transfers...

 

 

And here is the same plough with those transfers removed and my own applied instead. This includes a transfer for the works plate on the skirt...

 

 

It is at this point, I've just noticed that the plough had a broken handrail, which was broken in the first photo too. Something else to fix!

 

Here is a close up of the new transfers...

 

 

And here is No.18 with her lifetime partner, No.20, currently in the paintshop....

 

Edited January 5 by thetalkinlens

[Jon4470]

Definitely worth changing those transfers in my opinion. The new set look much better.

[micklner]

I have built the LNER versions including the Steel model , the lettering on them was even worse.  Wrong typeface, etc etc. I changed the Handrails on mine as well before they broke, as far too fragile.

[thetalkinlens]

1 hour ago, micklner said:

I have built the LNER versions including the Steel model , the lettering on them was even worse.  Wrong typeface, etc etc. I changed the Handrails on mine as well before they broke, as far too fragile.

 

Did you use brass rod for the replacements Mick?

[micklner]

36 minutes ago, thetalkinlens said:

 

Did you use brass rod for the replacements Mick?

Yes, the resin was a slight pain to drill , be careful of "skidding" as you start the holes the resin is a bit brittle as well. I also added a new Chimney and brass Straps on the rear area between the sides and the rear bufferbeam, and a front coupling. Roof was'nt a good fit and adjusted to fit better.

 

 

Steel version

 

 

 

One of the two wood versions.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5 by micklner

[thetalkinlens]

6 minutes ago, micklner said:

Yes, the resin was a slight pain to drill , be careful of "skidding" as you start the holes the resin is a bit brittle as well. I also added a new Chimney and brass Straps on the rear area between the sides and the rear bufferbeam, and a front coupling.

 

 

Steel version

 

 

 

One of the two wood versions.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Mick. Yes, I drilled out the coupling hook on the bufferbeam to fit a metal one and know what you mean with the resin. I may try a quick fix with some styrene rod first and go for the brass rod if that doesn't work out.

Edited January 5 by thetalkinlens