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Jig/tool for aligning W-iron axle assemblies parallel?


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Is there an obvious jig/etc. that I can use to align pairs axles when they are inserted into W-iron assemblies, in order to fix those W-irons parallel to each other? I'm thinking specifically of those kits which have loose irons rather than those which are tab/slot located - i.e. the Woodham Wagon Works kit I'm working through presently. 

 

I have managed this by eye using scribed lines in the past, but it feels like a simple fold down jig with parallel slots of standard axle spacings would make alot of sense? I'm sure i've seen something like this knocking around but I can't think of where. 

 

Cheers!

Edited by Lacathedrale
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Take a piece of 40 thou styrene sheet, drill a pair of 2mm holes set at the desired spacing, then cut the sheet down the middle through hole centres? Each half can then sit on the axles, located by the semicircular cutouts.

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30 minutes ago, MPR said:

Take a piece of 40 thou styrene sheet, drill a pair of 2mm holes set at the desired spacing, then cut the sheet down the middle through hole centres? Each half can then sit on the axles, located by the semicircular cutouts.

 

..... just make sure that the ends of the two pieces of card are in line, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. Otherwise, you'll have a parallelogram rather than a rectangle!

 

CJI.

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I suggest do not try to use an axle-setting gauge as a BTB. BB is set between the rear faces of the tyre. Different makes of wheel will have different projections from the rear of the boss at the axle axis, so BB cannot be set consistently at that area.

 

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34 minutes ago, Miss Prism said:

Different makes of wheel will have different projections from the rear of the boss at the axle axis, so BB cannot be set consistently at that area.

 

Back to back was the wrong description in retrospect, but the jigs are set to minimise movement for each gauge wheelset, with about 0.5mm each side as some allowance for differences in wheels. The jig actually need to be pinched in slightly for any metal wheels with an insulating boss onto the axle (Romfords, etc) as they project out.

 

49 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

So in theory I could use the 00 gauge if I had the relevant shim material for the wider gauges? 

 

Are you just wanting to us the same jig for multiple gauges?

 

The jig is there to set things up so both axles are parallel, either have a spare set of axles as mentioned above, or set of 00 wheels just used to set things up, then swap over to your 'actual' EM/P4 wheelset later, providing both are the same length axle (26mm)?  

 

Edited by 41516
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2 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

Thanks both, that makes alot of sense. So in theory I could use the 00 gauge if I had the relevant shim material for the wider gauges? 

You could use a second Brassmasters gauge, cut the sides off and use them as the shims.  It is very important to keep the axles parallel  in all planes, I just wish Hornby Dublo had realised that when they made their wagon chassis. Parallelogram is the kindest possible description for some of those in my collection. 

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1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said:

I generally don't deal with floating solebars, mostly W-iron units.

 

So the BB jig may be of better use to you, as it fits behind the W-irons, and final gauge won't matter (or have one of each?).

 

image.png.5df2e5f2c65084b2064d558a53421d76.png

 

 

Edited by 41516
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My jigs are simple home produced by clamping 2 pieces of plasticard together and drilling them as one. The back to back of the wheels should surely be set before they are installed in the W-irons. Again a simple home produced jig from turned brass rod. Once installed the W-irons can be located with packing to keep them central without any end float. 

20220714_084853.jpg

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