RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 11 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11 Just out of interest, what DCC decoders are fitted to the Rails Terriers? Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penrhos1920 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 18 hours ago, Curlew said: That's in case she gets stuck in a compartment with no access to a toilet - maybe? ;) Or using the Elizabeth Line? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 2 hours ago, NHY 581 said: Just out of interest, what DCC decoders are fitted to the Rails Terriers? Rob just some budget LaisDCC decoders - at £15 a pop it's not going to break the bank. The seller (blw technologies?) on eBay seem to be reasonable when I mentioned there was a problem with one. Right now the E2 is on the workbench getting heat-shrink tubing over the joins and a stayalive battery pack. Fingers and toes crossed! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 11 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11 2 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said: just some budget LaisDCC decoders - at £15 a pop it's not going to break the bank. The seller (blw technologies?) on eBay seem to be reasonable when I mentioned there was a problem with one. Right now the E2 is on the workbench getting heat-shrink tubing over the joins and a stayalive battery pack. Fingers and toes crossed! Ah.....Lais........ No criticism intended but if I may impart my personal experience...Take one Hatton P class which runs as required on DC. Take four 6 pin decoders. Lais, Rails of Sheffield and Traintec. The fourth was a Bachmann/Zimo. Each was tried in turn. The first three all gave a quality of running which was considerably worse than on DC. The Lais was the worst giving jerky, inconsistent running. No CVs were altered. The Bachmann Zimo was far superior and gave smooth running with exceptional slow speed control. It literally was chalk and cheese and illustrated perfectly the advice given when I started in DCC as in use good quality decoders and I have standardised on Zimo. The three other decoders I tried were all acquired in purchases of DCC fitted locos. So, more relevant to your jerky Terriers, I have a Rails SE&CR 751 fitted with a Bachmann/Zimo Next 18 decoder. It's running reflects that of the P Class. It runs smoothly with excellent slow speed control, down to an imperceptible crawl. I therefore respectfully suggest investing in the same decoder. They are more expensive but a classic demonstration of getting what you pay for and wortha try. Rob. 2 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 Interesting @NHY 581 - the Zimo MN180's aren't available yet - do you have a specific recommendation on SKU from Bachmann/Zimo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Although working in 2FS rather than 4mm, I can attest to the quality of Zimo decoders having 4 locos fitted with them. I also have several fitted with CTelectronik ones, which are also good, but unobtainable at the moment. These two are the only makes (at present) which have small enough decoders for my uses. I am lead to understand that the shortage of both these makes is due to the manufacturer being fully occupied with providing components for the German Military, and we all know the reason for that! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 11 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11 12 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said: Interesting @NHY 581 - the Zimo MN180's aren't available yet - do you have a specific recommendation on SKU from Bachmann/Zimo? Here you go... https://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/84804/36-567B-Bachmann-Next18-DCC-Loco-Decoder-Brake-Button-function No connection to Kernow but their write up is very comprehensive. Rob 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 (edited) Thank you Rob, @NHY 581- duly ordered. I already had a LaisDCC 21-pin decoder coming for the Improved Precedent, so I'll see and if not then send them back together. I had standardised on Zimo for my 2mm, not sure what I was thinking really. Anyway, an expensive weekend! However I have some good news to report - I fitted a heat shrink tubing to all the joints on the E2 (I think I found that there was enough slack in the lower terminal wire for it to short against the chassis while doing this) and fitted an extra large stayalive for good measure. The loco operated better but still waddled and stuttered - it looked like the centre axle was out of square. If I took the loco off the track while it was moving then it had a good 3-4 seconds of power, so unlikely to be dirty track. Taking it apart I found paper shims inside the bearing holes in the chassis. I'm sure they must have been put there deliberately but maybe for a problem which no longer exists - because upon removing them the loco now happily runs at the very slowest speed, is dead even and steady. I'm going to end this week on a high note and not push the boat out by trying to fit the body back onto the chassis! Edited February 11 by Lacathedrale 3 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 12 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12 13 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: I think the track needs a good (first!) clean That would be a good idea. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 12 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12 11 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: Thank you Rob, @NHY 581- duly ordered. I already had a LaisDCC 21-pin decoder coming for the Improved Precedent, so I'll see and if not then send them back together. I had standardised on Zimo for my 2mm, not sure what I was thinking really. Anyway, an expensive weekend! Morning. Yes, my apologies for the expenditure but I shall also be placing an order as I have a couple ( more than actually !) to fit next18 decoders into. In terms of the 6 pin Bachmann/Zimo jobs, it's worth considering using a 6 pin in an 8 pin loco via the Bachmann 8 to 6 pin harness where space is perhaps tight. I've done so in a few locos and although the overall length of socket plus decoder is about the same, it's compensated for by the reduced width. Handy for small boilered locos or narrow, low tenders. Rob 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matloughe Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 As an aside, may I ask what DCC Controller do you use? I used to have a Digitrax Zephyr but it was damaged beyond repair when my layout was housed in my old Garage by rodents - I am in the eventual market for a new one - the comments about decoders made me wonder about the controller. Fantastic photos of stock recently, I am wishing you all the best for further progress. Kind Regards, Gary 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 12 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12 1 minute ago, Matloughe said: As an aside, may I ask what DCC Controller do you use? I used to have a Digitrax Zephyr but it was damaged beyond repair when my layout was housed in my old Garage by rodents - I am in the eventual market for a new one - the comments about decoders made me wonder about the controller. Fantastic photos of stock recently, I am wishing you all the best for further progress. Kind Regards, Gary I appreciate the question is directed to La Cat but if I may interject. I use a NCE Powercab which I find does everything ( and no doubt much more ) that I need. It's also very user friendly despite the relatively large handset. A question was raised on my own thread by one of the regular contributors who wanted advice on his next DCC controller. The overwhelming response from other regulars was that the Powercab was their choice as well. Rob. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 (edited) Would the station nameboards be like top, or bottom? I'm leaning towards the latter. I'm guessing a 2' tall sign with 1' tall letters? 35 minutes ago, NHY 581 said: Morning. Yes, my apologies for the expenditure but I shall also be placing an order as I have a couple ( more than actually !) to fit next18 decoders into. In terms of the 6 pin Bachmann/Zimo jobs, it's worth considering using a 6 pin in an 8 pin loco via the Bachmann 8 to 6 pin harness where space is perhaps tight. I've done so in a few locos and although the overall length of socket plus decoder is about the same, it's compensated for by the reduced width. Handy for small boilered locos or narrow, low tenders. Rob I already had a Zimo MX616 so I just trimmed the pins and it fit well into the Hornby Terrier which has a 6-pin socket already. For the Improved Precedent I think I'll just turn around and ship the LaisDCC chip back, since I already have a 21-to-8 decoder and a DCC Concepts 8-pin already - which can't be any worse! @Matloughe I went for an NCE PowerCab. Frankly I think all of the DCC controllers out there are varying degrees of garbage in terms of ergonomics and usability, but until I can build my own MERG-based controller with a big brass rotary dial and clicky brass buttons, I'm going to go with the least bad/costly and suffer through it. Thank you for the kind words :) Edited February 12 by Lacathedrale 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 12 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12 I would go with the 2nd running in board, the 1st strkes me as being post grouping, or post nationalisation, where two or more companies had stations of the same name. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 (edited) Still needs lining and a red drop-shadow on the lettering, but the E2 is looking half like it should: Still a few more coats of varnish to go to even out the tank sides and touch up the smokebox, admittedly - but in my defence it's an absolute ball-ache to photograph high gloss!! Edited February 12 by Lacathedrale 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LondonCharivari Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 (edited) 2 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: Still needs lining and a red drop-shadow on the lettering, but the E2 is looking half like it should: Still a few more coats of varnish to go to even out the tank sides and touch up the smokebox, admittedly - but in my defence it's an absolute ball-ache to photograph high gloss!! Snap! They do look very nice in the black livery. How are you planning on doing the red lining? I chickened out on mine, but this is making me feel I should give it a whirl :) Edited February 12 by LondonCharivari Typo 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 7 minutes ago, LondonCharivari said: Snap! They do look very nice in the black livery. How are you planning on doing the red lining? I chickened out on mine, but this is making me feel I should give it a whirl :) Lovely! Where did you get the drop shadow text and number? I am going to use railtec lining and corners - we’ll see how it goes! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LondonCharivari Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 I was quite lucky actually, I got them made bespoke a few years ago via the Brighton Circle, Mike Waldron fixed me up. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with the railtec transfers, best of luck! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 6 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: but in my defence it's an absolute ball-ache to photograph high gloss!! I never use gloss, far too 'hard' looking on a model. Always a satin finish. Jim 2 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 (edited) @LondonCharivari Ah I see - I think I've got the only set that @ianmaccormac has produced recently, the Marsh umber ones? I remember reading in 'Southern Style Vol. 2 - LBSC" that some of the black locos had gilt lettering so I'm going to choose to put my fingers in my ears and just plough on. @Caley Jim Gloss for transfers at the very least, I'll work backwards from there. The E2 has a crew, which I think helps bring a sense of scale to it. I feel like the wheel tyres and coupling rod should be black, but I'm mostly just sitting on my hands until the red lining from Railtec arrives. EDIT: @Skinnylinny has very kindly helped me get some of their prototype lever frames in production here in the wealden workshop, and a rather smart idea of having it remotel to the layout (with the potential for mechanical interlocking). The actuation being done local to the turnouts via servo/motor/etc. and connected to the lever frame by using a plug and socket. It would be possible to connect up any kind of switching mechanism to the layout - either this lever frame idea, or a mimic panel with toggles, or accessory decoders for DCC. Thank you again, @Skinnylinny!! Edited February 13 by Lacathedrale 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Just painted up the sides of the tyres and the rod and it looks better already: Could maybe do with some wet oil on itbut overall I'm pleased with how it's coming along. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said: I feel like the wheel tyres and coupling rod should be black, but I'm mostly just sitting on my hands until the red lining from Railtec arrives. Too late to be any use for this loco, but the first thing I do when I start any new loco project is to use chemical blackener on the wheels (try Birchwood Casey gun blue). You can then mask them, aerosol them with primer and paint them with top coat before putting them on one side. Hope this helps Best wishes Eric 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 In a rather unprecedented burst of productivity I've also clad the island platform, so thoughts turn to the bay, whose form I've yet to really hammer out. On 29/06/2023 at 07:23, Edwardian said: Forgive me, but height over rail tops is the meaningful measurement here ... The picture below is interesting because it shows the increase in height from the passenger platform level to that (a) required for side unloading, and (b) for end unloading. I stress that the measurements added are estimates. So, Peco bullhead is 4mm from the underside of the sleepers to the top of the rail, and the thickness of my underlay is 6mm, yielding a railhead about 10mm above baseboard level, and since my platforms are 20mm above the baseboard, they are therefore 2'6" above the railhead. In order for a an end-loading dock surface of appropriate height therefore I need to increase the platform height on the bay/dock by 6mm. This is my sketch for a filament print of a carcass of the dock/bay based on that: The slots on the dock are for the legs of a buffer-stop. Are there any other obvious parts that would benefit from being placed in the carcass? I was going to use wooden bumpers on the road-side loading, and etched railings on the stairs, and glad the whole thing in SE Finecast english bond. My goal is not to model the finished product, but rather shorcut the fabrication of things like the steps and ramp, so in all likelihood only the part with any meaningful features would be printed, the remainder being in foamcore. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishplate Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 On 02/11/2023 at 21:15, NHY 581 said: Just popped into this thread and can see I need to go back to page 1. Lovely stuff. Rob Exactly what I 've done for the same reasons. Currently on page 24 . . . . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lacathedrale Posted February 13 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 13 2 hours ago, Fishplate said: Exactly what I 've done for the same reasons. Currently on page 24 . . . . Please see https;//www.interlocking.blog for a more concise review!! I did some scenic work, blimey! Usual disclaimers apply about fettling and filling… 18 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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