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Hornby Re-Built Patriot Drive Problem


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Hello there,

 

Having found the kindness and skill of forum members so helpful when I was constructing my DCC 00 gauge model railway and completing the electrics, I wonder if any forum members could help me with the following problem.

 

I have the Hornby re-built Patriot, Sir Frederick Harrison.  This has been a superb loco which has run beautifully on my lay out.  However, after taking it our of storage whilst I completed some point motor installation I have found that the engine is "free wheeling" as it were.  I have not used this loco a lot and I am always careful when I put locos in and out of storage.  Clearly, there is something wrong with the drive mechanism even tough I cannot figure what has caused it.  When I use my Gaugemenaster DCC controller nothing happens and I can effectively push the loco with all the wheels turning beautifully BUT not under power.

 

I would be very grateful for any help that members could offer me.  I could take it into my local MR shop for repair but IF it isn't too complicated to get things right I'm prepared to have a go myself.

 

Thank You

 

William Addison

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They have a problem with Mazak rot. Google Hornby mazak rot

My little used Royal Scot suffered this but not as bad and I managed to repair it by filing away some of the mazak around the tapered mouting post and the idler gear so that the worm would mesh again.

1079264440_RoyalScot4.jpg.b2b36edb71b169c9f42e1af6b27f0b2b.jpg

 

1496265886_RoyalScot5.jpg.1ca4f0c2a892bbb3276d831d62ca5b4b.jpg

 

It was out of service again recently due to the gear wheels splitting. 
Hornby's factories made these models with excreta.

Edited by Free At Last
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I have had a similar problem with Hornby Patriots and Royal Scots, which use the same chassis block.

 

I have tried the technique advocated by @Free At Last, but I found that loosening the top part of the chassis block (where the chip is mounted and the second picture in @Free At Last post), inserting a piece of packing at the front (I used a small piece of lead sheet) and then tightening up the screw provided enough leverage to keep the motor and gears (at the other end of the casting) engaged.

 

Good luck

Steve

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Thank you so much for the replies.  Of course some of the terms used in your answers are 'Greek' to me but the links you all provide are very helpful.

 

William

 

BTW following the excellent analysis of what is likely the problem with this loco from the members who replied to me I found this on eBay:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334101664693?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338364430&customid=334101664693_1&toolid=11000

 

William

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2 hours ago, WILLIAM ADDISON said:

Thank you so much for the replies.  Of course some of the terms used in your answers are 'Greek' to me but the links you all provide are very helpful.

 

William

 

BTW following the excellent analysis of what is likely the problem with this loco from the members who replied to me I found this on eBay:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334101664693?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338364430&customid=334101664693_1&toolid=11000

 

William

 

Looks like your answer. Good how people step into the breech. Peters Spares commisioned a replacement item for the Hornby T9 which had not dissimilar mazak related problems, again needed a bit of fettling but did the job perfectly.

 

John.

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Hello William you beat me too it , I was going to refer you to the apparent replacement part advertised on eBay. I too have had the same problem with a Hornby Scot, in my case I replaced the chassis with a comet version. The part listed wasnt available then. If my Hornby RB Patriot eventually goes the same way it will be my option to try this part. I would therefore be interested how you or others have got on when fixing it.

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