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Class 31, by Accurascale - It's time 2 Brush Up!


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43 minutes ago, JaymzHatstand said:

I had the roof panel off this afternoon for a quick play with the Aux switches as I'm trying to get both tail lights on at the same time, if thats at all possible. I've got the sound version of 128, Chlamydia, for reference.

 

If it's not possible, I certainly won't be complaining, I'm just curious more than anything! I'm thoroughly enjoying investigating everthing this loco has to offer, and it definitely won't be the last A/S loco I invest in! I just need a couple more NYMR relevant locos (55009 as first preserved would be an absolute clincher!) There are two or three others I've got my eye, but sadly not wallet at the moment on!

 

 

I've not had chance to fit either the crew (though the second man now has a grey shoe(s)), or detail bits, but I'll get there, along with a touch of light weathering!

 

Cheers

 

J

Can’t remember the exact setup but between F17 and 21 they can give you, no lights one light or both. It’s all in the instructions.

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31128 is now ready for weathering. Detailed as per my requirements, drivers at both ends, wheel faces painted track dirt brown, cabs and fan weathered. 37422 will be joint it tomorrow for hand and airbrush weathering. Both stunners.

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1 hour ago, JaymzHatstand said:

I had the roof panel off this afternoon for a quick play with the Aux switches as I'm trying to get both tail lights on at the same time, if thats at all possible. I've got the sound version of 128, Chlamydia, for reference.

 

If it's not possible, I certainly won't be complaining, I'm just curious more than anything! I'm thoroughly enjoying investigating everthing this loco has to offer, and it definitely won't be the last A/S loco I invest in! I just need a couple more NYMR relevant locos (55009 as first preserved would be an absolute clincher!) There are two or three others I've got my eye, but sadly not wallet at the moment on!

 

 

I've not had chance to fit either the crew (though the second man now has a grey shoe(s)), or detail bits, but I'll get there, along with a touch of light weathering!

 

Cheers

 

J

Chlamydia? 

That's one extra feature we can all do without .

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1 hour ago, JaymzHatstand said:

 I've got the sound version of 128, Chlamydia, for reference.

 

Sounds painful, I wonder how it compares to other model bourne diseases like mazak rot, chip blow, motor burn out etc ?

😄

Edited by adb968008
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35 minutes ago, philg said:

I think the OP is asking from a DC perspective

 

Sorry for the confusion, I am running on DCC, I should have stated that.  I'll recheck the destructions!

 

Oh, and the Chlamydia reference, just for full disclosure, is one of the colloquial nicknames that 128 gets referred to as, and oddly enough, my auto correct jumped to that from such references! 

 

Cheers 

 

J

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1 hour ago, rob D2 said:

Would a second man be allowed slipons ? Was there no requirement fur safety shoes back then 

 

That's just from the old bashing lore that a true thrash merchant would have worn white socks and grey slip on shoes. 

 

Nowt but a bit of fun to amuse myself in a small way!

 

Cheers

 

J

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1 hour ago, rob D2 said:

Would a second man be allowed slipons ? Was there no requirement fur safety shoes back then 

My safety shoes used to be steel toe capped leather. I didn't know fur was available?

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How is everyone getting the white tipped pipe onto the loco buffer beam where it should be, my 31128 doesn't have enough holes for the full compliment of pipes & to accommodate the 3 piece snow ploughs.

If I'm not going to drill into the buffer beam, just don't want to for fear of stuffing it up, does that mean I'm buggered?

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13 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:


Hi @JaymzHatstand,

 

Just confirming now that our warranty does not cover STDs. 
 

Play safe, everyone!

 

Cheers!

 

Fran

And there was me thinking we'd be fully protected.... 😂

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35 minutes ago, classy52 said:

How is everyone getting the white tipped pipe onto the loco buffer beam where it should be, my 31128 doesn't have enough holes for the full compliment of pipes & to accommodate the 3 piece snow ploughs.

If I'm not going to drill into the buffer beam, just don't want to for fear of stuffing it up, does that mean I'm buggered?

There’s very fine holes in the buffer beam hard to see took me at least half hour to fit them. 

IMG_1584.jpeg

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1 hour ago, classy52 said:

How is everyone getting the white tipped pipe onto the loco buffer beam where it should be, my 31128 doesn't have enough holes for the full compliment of pipes & to accommodate the 3 piece snow ploughs.

If I'm not going to drill into the buffer beam, just don't want to for fear of stuffing it up, does that mean I'm buggered?

I took the buffer heads off (not difficult at all) then drilled the holes above and outboard of the yellow pipes (also need holes drilling). My pics above to show the locations. 

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11 hours ago, atom3624 said:

Fantastic and very thorough review by adb, thank you.

I don't think the motors are the same on closer inspection - A/Scale's looks closer to the Dapol ones I think.

Al.

Dapols 73 has one that looks identical in it.

Indeed the latest Ali-Express version even comes with the same spec flywheels on it.

 

Both Hornbys and Accurascales 31’s look like this..IMG_0175.jpeg.27bfeec6eb8078509853c6b9c1b4b302.jpeg

ive seen this motor form factor in dozens of models from several manufacturers both UK and Europe, it seems to be an industry standard one and has been around well over a decade.

 

I’m confident to believe this is in some Dapol, EFE, Kernow, Hattons, Hornby, Accurascale, Piko models, to me its the same… size, shape, build, rpm, and running characteristics.

 

( Which is why I get dubious over some claims of behaviour apparent to some manufacturers over others, Ive repaired/dismantled or otherwise gone over well over 150 locos for myself and others with this apparent motor profile inside)… for example no ones ever complained about Hornbys 87.. and well it looks familiar…


top to bottom.. Dapol 73 (extracted), Hornby 87 in its chassis, LaisDcC spare (extracted), Hattons 66 (in chassis)…

 

IMG_0177.jpeg.1c33d3e1acba25d7644d3f95fdfbaac7.jpeg

Only major difference ive seen is the fly wheels manufacturers use. 
 

You can buy them on Ali-Express for a few quid. I keep a stack of them as they are drop in replacements, and adaptive to other models.

 

They are also quite easy to fix, the Hattons 66 seemed to have a bad batch, where the brushes werent set correctly causing it to fail… I repaired more than 50 with this issue.. indeed Ive still a bunch of Hattons 66’s on the bench which I acquired very cheaply to repair.

 

I found the dimensions are pretty concurrent across other manufacturers too, using their own spec motor’s too… You could say drop it in say Piko, Mehano, Bachmann and Heljan too as whilst they have their own motors, its dimensionally a fit…

 

Theres two versions I see, 9800 rpm, and 13000 rpm. The latter is less common on Ali, but seems to appear whenever Hornbys super detailed HSTs do.


So its well worth having a few in your tool box, the one with flywheels included is a bit of a bargain as they are a few quid a piece on their own… 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002670420818.html
 

(of course your Accurascale ones come with lifetime guarentee so you dont need for them, if bought new), but others often sell for £25+ on ebay or spares sites..

 

I like noodling with motors..

i’m currently sourcing replacement Realtrack Class 143 motors from Ali for knackers I have surrounding me, and a bunch of 2 shaft 3v N10 motors for a novel idea, but thats a hard one to find apparently.

 

Edited by adb968008
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