EFE Adams O2 tank.

[RichardLong]

Got mine today - W25 and W26 - lovely models and both ran well straight out of the box, even on my rubbish old Hornby track.  Is it me or do these newer ones run better than the early models?

[PJT]

7 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

It's got a Drummond boiler, hasn't it? Or at least, Drummond chimney.

It's got a Drummond chimney, but not a Drummond boiler.  The Drummond boiler's most easily identified by having safety valves on the dome.  You can see them in photos of IoW O2 no. W31 Chale in the mid 1960s, which I think was the last O2 to carry a Drummond boiler.  Certainly the last one on the Isle of Wight, anyway. 

 

I don't think Kernow or EFE have yet done an O2 with an Adams chimney - nor one with a Drummond boiler, for that matter.

Pete T.

 

[Compound2632]

8 hours ago, PJT said:

It's got a Drummond chimney, but not a Drummond boiler. 

 

Not so far off original condition then? Would just a change of chimney suffice?

[PatC]

W26 arrived a couple of days ago. Initial was very impressive. I agree with others who've commented on the improved running, certainly compared to my other two, both of which are from the first batch.

[PJT]

2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Not so far off original condition then? Would just a change of chimney suffice?

 

I'm not really clued up on Adams locos in their earlier years, but looking at D.L. Bradley's 'LSWR Locomotives - The Adams Classes' (Wild Swan) and comparing the earlier photos to the model on my desk just now, the things that stand out to me are the chimney, footplate lamp iron positions (they're to the later, more forward positions on the model) and the smokebox door.  Also, in the earliest 1890s photos, the locos had no coal rails at all.  The last ten O2s to be built (227-236) had taller cabs, too, which I don't think can be created from any of the KMRC/EFE tooling options we've seen so far.

 

The smokebox door in the early photos has a shallower dish, with a distinct flattened ring around the outer edge, very diiferent in profile to the later one on the model.  Wouldn't be a huge problem to swap it, since the model's smokebox door is held in place by magnets, but I haven't looked to see what's now available in the way of Adams smokebox doors.  Brings to mind Tony Collett's shop in Southsea, where I used to buy all my bits when I started railway modelling many decades ago - he'd definitely have had one.

 

Hope that helps!

Pete T.

 

 

 

[MattR]

Can anyone confirm these are better runners than the first batch? I'm thinking about picking up the LSWR one to haul my EFE cross country coaches, but I'd heard they were terrible pullers.

[Nile]

I've not noticed any difference between these and the originals. To me they all run just fine.

 

 

It may come down to how 'draggy' the EFE coaches are, I haven't tried it.

[Dave JS]

I picked up #31 as a non runner with some screws missing, anyone know the thread form for these screws.

The body fixing and coupling rod screw holes all look the same diameter.

The motor runs fine but there seems to be an issue with the gearing.

The rear drivers will loose the meshing, to the main drive shaft, is there a way to remove the gears and wheels to check all is well?

I have got down to the metal chassis, but cannot see how to go further.

Is there a source of spares for the screws and replacement gears if needed.

Thanks

[woodenhead]

3 hours ago, Dave JS said:

I picked up #31 as a non runner with some screws missing, anyone know the thread form for these screws.

The body fixing and coupling rod screw holes all look the same diameter.

The motor runs fine but there seems to be an issue with the gearing.

The rear drivers will loose the meshing, to the main drive shaft, is there a way to remove the gears and wheels to check all is well?

I have got down to the metal chassis, but cannot see how to go further.

Is there a source of spares for the screws and replacement gears if needed.

Thanks

It sounds like someone else has had the loco apart for spares on their own loco.

 

Is the chassis all correctly screwed together, if it's loose somewhere it might allow space for the gears to unmesh.

 

I got rid of both of mine and my beloved Well Tanks during a cull but I had read that people were concerned how you might get into the gears if you needed to because of the way the chassis was designed by Dave Jones.

 

I guess if you are looking for spares it might be Kernow or EFE.

[Nile]

It's on the Bachmann spares site here , but no gears listed.

The body and chassis need to be connected together properly or the gears won't engage fully, the motor in mounted inside the body.

[spamcan61]

1 hour ago, Nile said:

It's on the Bachmann spares site here , but no gears listed.

The body and chassis need to be connected together properly or the gears won't engage fully, the motor in mounted inside the body.

I hate that arrangement with a passion, makes it well nigh impossible to fine tune the gear meshing.

Edited July 27 by spamcan61

[BWsTrains]

10 hours ago, woodenhead said:

I had read that people were concerned how you might get into the gears if you needed to because of the way the chassis was designed by Dave Jones.

 

This is one of those Spectres destined to haunt generations of OO small wheelbase modellers to come. How anyone could ever come up with such designs remains beyond (my) belief.

 

Then there is this helpful advice on the Hattons DJM 14xx Topic.

 

On 22/12/2023 at 03:24, NHY 581 said:

On 22/12/2023 at 03:13, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

I would suggest that a better result is available by dropping the previous RTR models and starting afresh.

 

From a great height.............

 

Rob

 

 

[Bon Accord]

Wrong thread.

Edited July 28 by Bon Accord

[phil-b259]

2 hours ago, Bon Accord said:

Does anyone know the approximate dates for the use of the two Metropolitan liveries?

I do appreciate that the models depict the locomotive in it's preserved state, but was just curious as to what time periods the Metropolitan versions otherwise represent.

 

Erm.... I think you are posting on the wrong thread

 

If you are asking about the Rapido E1 model (and not the Kernow LSWR 02 locomotive which is what this thread is about) then you might want to re-post on https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/178148-metropolitan-railway-e-class-met-no1/page/11/#comment-5577015

 

 

 

Edited July 28 by phil-b259

[NHY 581]

16 hours ago, Nile said:

It's on the Bachmann spares site here , but no gears listed.

The body and chassis need to be connected together properly or the gears won't engage fully, the motor in mounted inside the body.

 

Agreed. Utter folly but exactly the same design as that for the 14xx and that was a proper horse's arse. The new batch from EFE run very nicely and whilst I'm sure there have been no fundamental changes made to motor mounting etc, I do think they have been factory tinkered with to improve things over previous examples. Certainly the examples I've tested suffer far less droop to the coupling rods than before which could suggest some of the slop in the mechanism has been removed. 

 

Rob

[Dave JS]

I managed to get the chassis apart from the footplate.

You then have to remove the wheels to access the chassis screws which retain the gears.

Someone had been in there before and glued the footplate to the chassis.

When I checked the gears one tooth is missing and the cog seems to float and misses the direct drive to each wheel.

Bachmann were brilliant and could supply the gear wheel. Just waiting for it to arrive.

One question, on an O2, is it right or left drivers leading?

Thanks for the comments.

Edited Tuesday at 07:55 by Dave JS

[Nick C]

29 minutes ago, Dave JS said:

I managed to get the chassis apart from the footplate.

You then have to remove the wheels to access the chassis screws which retain the gears.

Someone had been in there before and glued the footplate to the chassis.

When I checked the gears on tooth is missing and the cog seems to float and misses the direct drive to each wheel.

Bachmann were brilliant and could supply the gear wheel. Just waiting for it to arrive.

One question, on an O2, is it right or left drivers leading?

Thanks for the comments.

Looking at one of mine, right leading (right at bottom centre with left forward)

[Dave JS]

I managed to get the chassis apart from the footplate.

You then have to remove the wheels to access the chassis screws which retain the gears.

Someone had been in there before and glued the footplate to the chassis.

When I checked the gears one tooth is missing and the cog seems to float and misses the direct drive to each wheel.

Bachmann were brilliant and could supply the gear wheel. Just waiting for it to arrive.

One question, on an O2, is it right or left drivers leading?

Thanks for the comments.

Edited Tuesday at 07:55 by Dave JS

[Dave JS]

Thank you.

I managed to get a spare gear, to replace the one with a broken tooth, so will try later.