RMweb Premium Popular Post Andy Keane Posted June 27 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 27 (edited) Today has been the hedges around R.A. Keane and Sons, Motor Engineers (my dad always wanted to run his own garage fixing classic bikes): Edited June 27 by Andy Keane 19 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 27 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27 (edited) Some of you may have noticed a 6-ton hand crane lurking in my Helston layout. This was a protype produced by Phil @Harlequin. He is now ready to supply the fully developed version of these to those in need of one: see Edited June 27 by Andy Keane 11 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 Meantime in the loco works the set of custom rivet transfers for the smokebox of my 517 arrived from Steve at Railtec (excellent) so I have been able to add those and then give the whole body a coat of black before I reach for the crimson lake: 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 35 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Meantime in the loco works the set of custom rivet transfers for the smokebox of my 517 arrived from Steve at Railtec (excellent) so I have been able to add those and then give the whole body a coat of black before I reach for the crimson lake: That is looking very nice Andy. Have you tried painting crimson lake over a black undercoat before? I tried once and the crimson lake looked horrible. You have to put so many layers of red on to stop the black showing through that you may wish you had done something different. I ended up stripping my model and doing it again with a red oxide undercoat. The crimson lake doesn't cover that well and the undercoat makes a big difference to ho the finished model will look. People have argued about the crimson lake of the Midland/LMS/BR changing over the years and the generally accepted conclusion seems to be that the colour itself was the same but that different undercoat preparation and varnishes resulted in colours that looked different. You may get lucky and your crimson lake may cover better than mine did but I thought I would just mention it in case you run into problems. Cheers Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 Does anyone have a copy of MRJ 200 page 172 A 4mm Telegraph Pole Kit by David Lane? I have just gotten one of these Masokits Masterbits kits from Michael Clark but the instructions in it were incomplete and he does not have them online. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 1 minute ago, t-b-g said: That is looking very nice Andy. Have you tried painting crimson lake over a black undercoat before? I tried once and the crimson lake looked horrible. You have to put so many layers of red on to stop the black showing through that you may wish you had done something different. I ended up stripping my model and doing it again with a red oxide undercoat. The crimson lake doesn't cover that well and the undercoat makes a big difference to ho the finished model will look. People have argued about the crimson lake of the Midland/LMS/BR changing over the years and the generally accepted conclusion seems to be that the colour itself was the same but that different undercoat preparation and varnishes resulted in colours that looked different. You may get lucky and your crimson lake may cover better than mine did but I thought I would just mention it in case you run into problems. Cheers Tony Ah! maybe I should wipe it off the tanks and boiler while I can - I used enamel and its not yet dry! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 3 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Ah! maybe I should wipe it off the tanks and boiler while I can - I used enamel and its not yet dry! That is a possibility! Either that or wait for it to dry and put an extra layer of red oxide on the crimson lake parts. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 I now have very grubby fingers and a loco that is back to grey primer over the bits that will be crimson! Thanks for the advice - at least it came off pretty easily with no damage to the body using white spirit and cotton buds. You live and learn. thanks Andy 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 28 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28 48 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Does anyone have a copy of MRJ 200 page 172 A 4mm Telegraph Pole Kit by David Lane? I have just gotten one of these Masokits Masterbits kits from Michael Clark but the instructions in it were incomplete and he does not have them online. Me Sir! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 2 minutes ago, Gilbert said: Me Sir! Could you PM me a scan please - thanks Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted June 28 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28 (edited) It all depends if your paint is a true "lake" or an opaque paint formulated to look like a particular complete "Crimson Lake" build-up. Lakes have been discussed recently here: Edited June 28 by Harlequin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 28 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28 2 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Could you PM me a scan please - thanks Andy If I can I will! Won't be instant. C 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 An issue I have that underlies all this is the order in which paint is applied. I like to paint locos with an airbrush but I am not great at it. Also masking can be very fiddly. So I had thought put black on then the crimson. But now I will be doing it the other way around. I will spray the lake tomorrow then let it dry before putting the black back on - but now the black will have to be brushed I think. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 7 minutes ago, Harlequin said: It all depends if your paint is a true "lake" or an opaque paint formulated to look like a particular complete "Crimson Lake" build-up. Lakes have been discussed recently here: Wow - that is a technical article. I am planning to use the Phoenix Paints "P18 GWR Coach Lake [1912 Livery] (Satin[Dull)]" and I am hoping this gives an opaque coverage and is a sensible colour for the loco - if it all looks horrible I will just wipe it all off and revert to good old loco green. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted June 28 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28 1 minute ago, Andy Keane said: Wow - that is a technical article. I am planning to use the Phoenix Paints "P18 GWR Coach Lake [1912 Livery] (Satin[Dull)]" and I am hoping this gives an opaque coverage and is a sensible colour for the loco - if it all looks horrible I will just wipe it all off and revert to good old loco green. Stick to your guns - a Crimson Lake 517 would look wonderful! But why not test the paint on a few scraps of whatever different colours you have lying around before going all-in on the loco? 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 Phil, it does seem to cover pretty well - its a nice red/maroon and quite a dense paint, so even when I thin it down to spray I hope it will cover well on the loco, 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 I would try a red oxide colour for the base coat. Red is not a strong pigment so needs a light or complementary undercoat. My experience with Precision Midland red on a grey base came out looking a bit too purple when I tried it. White came out lighter than I wanted. I'm excited to see this with a matching trailer… 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 1 hour ago, richbrummitt said: I would try a red oxide colour for the base coat. Red is not a strong pigment so needs a light or complementary undercoat. My experience with Precision Midland red on a grey base came out looking a bit too purple when I tried it. White came out lighter than I wanted. I'm excited to see this with a matching trailer… I have one of the upcoming crimson auto coaches on order but who know how the colours will sit together. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 4 hours ago, richbrummitt said: I would try a red oxide colour for the base coat. Red is not a strong pigment so needs a light or complementary undercoat. My experience with Precision Midland red on a grey base came out looking a bit too purple when I tried it. White came out lighter than I wanted. I'm excited to see this with a matching trailer… No argument from me on that one. The red oxide primer would be my choice every time. It was the Midland Railway's choice too! I have found exactly the same problems with grey primer. Red oxide really lifts the finish of the top coat. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28 6 hours ago, Andy Keane said: Wow - that is a technical article. I am planning to use the Phoenix Paints "P18 GWR Coach Lake [1912 Livery] (Satin[Dull)]" and I am hoping this gives an opaque coverage and is a sensible colour for the loco - if it all looks horrible I will just wipe it all off and revert to good old loco green. I'm sure it will be fine over red oxide primer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 29 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29 Currently the base coat is a grey acid etch (the Q8 rattle can). What make of red oxide do people recommend? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 29 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29 45 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Currently the base coat is a grey acid etch (the Q8 rattle can). What make of red oxide do people recommend? Andy I'd use gently warmed Halfords in a spray can. Other finer model primers are available though....let's see what the panel think... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 29 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29 1 hour ago, Gilbert said: I'd use gently warmed Halfords in a spray can. Other finer model primers are available though....let's see what the panel think... Chris That is my choice too. Although on another thread there is a discussion about Halfords changing their paint ranges and I don't know what the new version of the primer is like, if it has indeed changed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 29 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29 4 minutes ago, t-b-g said: That is my choice too. Although on another thread there is a discussion about Halfords changing their paint ranges and I don't know what the new version of the primer is like, if it has indeed changed. I'm due a trip to our local branch so may do a bit of rattle can shopping.. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted June 29 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29 (edited) In the end I applied two coats of crimson lake over the grey primer. Given that I left the black on the smokebox it covers very well - the smokebox and boiler are not noticeably different in colour. Also I masked up the cab and am hoping it mostly stayed black so it will not be too fiddly to add the extra black it will now need with a paintbrush. And as ever weathering will hide a multitude of sins! Edited June 29 by Andy Keane 17 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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