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Helston Revisited


Andy Keane
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5 minutes ago, Andy Keane said:

These sorts of tricks will help but remember even the front will be only 0.67mm wide. So I think it would need to be thicker in both directions. Also all the L sections will probably end up as square sections. Will that matter? I am no expert on printers, though I can drive CAD.

 

The flange and web thickness of the channel on my Pooley is 0.4mm

 

web.jpg.4db997206e9b5fee3c287a9dc816abdb.jpg


It's all about compromise with modelling........but that's just my take on it

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A side etch would look like this. There would be top and bottom and the other side with small tabs to solder them together. Then one could "stick" bits on to decorate such as strips or L section brass etc. The top bit is harder because the four main beams are all at odd angles and have two bends in each one. But being thicker maybe we could print just that bit?

jib_etch.png.5fc03c8b92dfdc4de29aca1bee226268.png

 

Edited by Andy Keane
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So when we put three etches together we get this using 0.5mm thick sheet. Not as nice as the full 3D CAD but it still looks a lot like a crane jib. As to how much anyone would want to add decoration may be up to the patience of the modeller?

jib_etch.png.bf9cf79cfd75bc969bd96d1b8d93442b.png

Edited by Andy Keane
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10 hours ago, Andy Keane said:

So when we put three etches together we get this using 0.5mm thick sheet. Not as nice as the full 3D CAD but it still looks a lot like a crane jib. As to how much anyone would want to add decoration may be up to the patience of the modeller?

jib_etch.png.bf9cf79cfd75bc969bd96d1b8d93442b.png


From normal viewing distance, with a 3D ringed top, I still think that looks very good.

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24 minutes ago, Neal Ball said:


From normal viewing distance, with a 3D ringed top, I still think that looks very good.

yes and you can buy very fine L section brass and simply glue or solder strips on the various faces to make a more 3D and indeed stronger result. Definitely much more robust that a 3D print in resin could be. So I am inclined to print the jib head and join that to a brass main span and then on to a printed base. This would make the whole thing more robust and still allow quite a lot of detail.

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On 27/06/2023 at 12:33, Andy Keane said:

@The Stationmaster Mike can you confirm the spacing between signal wire support posts was around 20 feet? I seem to remember either you or Paul said so but cannot recall where.

thanks

andy

As mentioned in PM my 1930s signal engineering text book says the following -

Stakes for two wires or less - spacing is 10 yards

More than 2 wires the spacing is 8 yards

 

The 1952 and 1980 editions of the IRSE 'green' booklet simply say 'suitable intervals' and no doubt company/BR Region practice varied.  Photos and sleeper counts are probab;y the best guide.

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49 minutes ago, Modelu Chris said:

Very nice CAD work! I see we were tagged in the thread but it looks like you have it all sorted. I look forward to seeing the end result.

Chris, @Harlequin has made some trial prints of the crane jib but we may need your help for production if you are willing? Regards

Andy

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Alongside work on the crane I am continuing to potter at the various buildings in the yard at Helston. The Gweek Company had a ramshackle collection of buildings there after WWII though not sure of their origins. I am planning to try and model these as they might have looked when first built. The full structure seems to have consisted of three coal staithes with a corrugated roof, a timber storage building and an office, all separately built with differing roof lines, but hard up against each other. This is the start of my framework for the covered coal staithes (the post in the lower RH corner is just propped there while I size it all up). It is not obvious how high to make the roof, and indeed a roof over a coal staithe seems to be something of a luxury. This effort is judged from the two photos I have and by placing a wagon there, but even then the long beam is about nine feet above the ground at full scale, which seems a tad high. I suppose if any lower it would not be easy to shovel coal off wagons into the staithes.

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I have just unpacked the garage and weigh bridge office as 3D printed by https://microworkshops.co.uk/

Amazing quality prints from my CAD. They will need painting and windows and doors adding but I am jolly pleased.

The only issue is they end up looking very precise - I may have to "damage" the Gweek buildings as I am sure they were not so accurately made as the GWR ones.

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Edited by Andy Keane
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I have started painting some of the corrugated sheds on the Helston layout. These are 3D printed resin. The tiny shed was a commercial item while they garage and weighbridge are my designs. I have the Gweek Co Ltd shed under manufacture along with some doors for the garage. My next problem is how to do the rust on these. I have read about methods where hairspray is placed over a base rust coat, followed by top paint, followed by small amounts of water to loosen patches to let the rust show through. I have also seen a similar method with masking fluid rather than hairspray used to separate base rust and top colour. Does anyone have any views? Does @Gilbert have a cunning trick for this? These photos show GWR light stone walls and red-rust base coats. Top photo with flash, bottom one under room lights - amazing the colour difference.

Andy

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Edited by Andy Keane
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