RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted August 24 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 24 On 23/08/2024 at 01:45, Andy Keane said: I used the modelu gutters on my station building. They are lovely but I found very fragile. On 23/08/2024 at 10:09, Graham T said: Agreed Andy. I find it very difficult to trim them to length without any breakages. When I started using Modelu’s 7mm guttering I thought it seemed like most of the parts were a different resin to the plain gutters, which were very brittle. The only way I found to cut it without it shattering was with several gentle backward strokes with a razor saw, which so far seems to work well. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 27 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27 And we have some paint! Now to see if I can apply it with anything remotely resembling precision... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 27 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27 I just spent a pleasant half an hour making a start on this Cooper Craft platelayers hut. Goes together very nicely, but I think I might need to use a bit of a filler on a couple of those corners! 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 29 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29 And here's the hut fully built. Very nice to put together I must say! 15 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 29 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29 Another couple of targets popped up on the range this evening. First in the sights were some Cooper Craft luggage trolleys. Fiddly little so and so's, but a piece of cake compared to the etched brass ones I put together for Chuffnell R a while ago. Managing to resist temptation - which is very unlike me - I've now set them aside for the glue to harden before I add the front axles. Next for a quick volley was the Mike's Models white metal kit of a GW corrugated iron hut... Needed a little bit of clean-up here and there, so it was out with the old cheap files (seem to remember reading somewhere that white metal is a surefire way to clog up files?) I was also a bit dubious about using contact adhesive to attach the parts, as the UHU that I had in Austria seemed to be 90% mozzarella. Those who've used it will know what I mean. But I found an unopened tube of this in my newly organised tool draw, and am pleased to say that it hardly strings at all - which is nice. Now I just have to wait and see to find out if it actually works as glue though! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 30 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30 Well the non-stringing quality of the UHU Extra appears to be its only quality. Available instructions for its use were sparse, but suggested applying a thin layer to each surface to be attached. I did this and left it clamped overnight. I removed the clamps this morning - and the two pieces promptly parted company. So then I tried what I guess is the standard technique for contact adhesive? Applied a thin layer to each surface (having cleaned them in warm soapy water first), left for 10 minutes, and then clamped the two pieces together as before. Left them for a few hours and... ... they fell apart again. The almost-full tube of UHU Extra is now residing in the round filing cabinet on the floor next to my workbench. I'll try superglue gel next! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gopher Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 1 minute ago, Graham T said: Well the non-stringing quality of the UHU Extra appears to be its only quality. Available instructions for its use were sparse, but suggested applying a thin layer to each surface to be attached. I did this and left it clamped overnight. I removed the clamps this morning - and the two pieces promptly parted company. So then I tried what I guess is the standard technique for contact adhesive? Applied a thin layer to each surface (having cleaned them in warm soapy water first), left for 10 minutes, and then clamped the two pieces together as before. Left them for a few hours and... ... they fell apart again. The almost-full tube of UHU Extra is now residing in the round filing cabinet on the floor next to my workbench. I'll try superglue gel next! Graham - I've had similar problems with UHU. I used it to build some buffer stops. They are in place on the layout but I'm not convinced they are that robust. Best of luck with the super glue. All character building stuff 😄 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 30 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30 I could try soldering - I've done it with some white metal and brass etch before, but it's heart in mouth stuff! (At least it is for me). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 30 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 30 I think the best solution if you do not want to use solder is no doubt Araldite Rapid two part epoxy. I use it all the time and it never fails even on glass. 3 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 30 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30 Thanks Andy, I think I've got some two-part epoxy somewhere... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted August 30 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30 I'm with Andy on this one Graham and always use it for my white metal road vehicles. Make sure it's the 5 minute variety, mix just small quantities at a time and make sure the joining surfaces are cleaned with a fibre glass pencil (with face mask) to give it a key for the glue to grab, as well as cleaning the surfaces. It should work a treat. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schooner Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 As above re 5 min epoxy is definitely The Way. ...but... I bleddy loves that gel superglue. Quick, easy, clean (/precise - if the nozzle is too coarse it's easy to put a tiiiiiny bit on a pin), a good few seconds working time for alignment and then a pinch together for a few seconds more to give a solid bond etc etc. Dreamy. Is it as good as epoxy? No. Do I still use it 90% of the time? Shhh! 3 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 30 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 30 I love the gel for fixing down odd bits and bobs on platforms and the like. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 30 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 30 On 23/08/2024 at 23:18, MrWolf said: GWR seats were painted all over chocolate brown in case you didn't know, brown and cream is a BR(W) scheme. Any "stone" paintwork or picking out the monograms is a preservation thing. Interesting - the HMRS "Great Western Way" books says: "All seats were painted dark stone all over and probably some re-painted maroon-brown when that colour was introduced for station buildings." 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 30 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30 I think I'll take the easy route and try the gel first. If that fails I'll break out the epoxy. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 3 hours ago, Andy Keane said: Interesting - the HMRS "Great Western Way" books says: "All seats were painted dark stone all over and probably some re-painted maroon-brown when that colour was introduced for station buildings." Possibly, that's dependant on the time period. If you're talking 1930s, benches were being painted in GWR standard tint No4, (Chocolate) rather than No3 (Dark stone), according to the GWSG book Structure Colours 1912-47. I don't suppose it matters, the only people who can tell you for certain what instructions were actually carried out and when are long dead and there's several different interpretations of the colours in model form. I've ended up using the light stone from one manufacturer and the dark from another to get as close as I could to surviving samples of GWR paint on my own models and I wouldn't put money on that being right either. 😉 2 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 31 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 31 Touch wood, fingers crossed, and so on, the superglue gel seems to have done the trick... So the next step is to see if I can persuade the roof to stay on! 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 (edited) I have one of those old huts somewhere, it's glued together and the corners reinforced internally with match sticks. That's about as far as the previous owner got. The roof, which is loose is a rather hefty thing that doesn't fit too well, but I've never seen anyone else produce a kit of this hut and they must be at least forty years old. There were several of this prototype put up not long after grouping to serve as halt shelters on the Wye valley line. Mine is missing its double doors, but they'd be easy to fabricate. Edited August 31 by MrWolf 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 31 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 31 The roof does indeed fit like a cheap suit... It was almost impossible to bend it into a properly fitting curvature without wrecking it. I'll take another look with a fresh pair of eyes tomorrow and see if it can be improved. Maybe I'll remove it and try to replace with styrene sheet. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 I have read on here, can't remember which thread I'm afraid, of out of shape items being bent back by putting them into hot water. Perhaps worth a try prior to it being discarded. Just a thought. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted September 1 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 1 I've done that myself with styrene, and heard of it being used for resin, but I'm not sure if it's feasible for white metal? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 UHU was the only glue we ever had when I was a kid, and it was always rubbish. As a teenage modeller I discovered Araldite Rapid, and never looked back, though, yes, that gel super glue is mighty handy ! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted September 1 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1 6 hours ago, Graham T said: I've done that myself with styrene, and heard of it being used for resin, but I'm not sure if it's feasible for white metal? If you pop it in the oven to warm through at above boiling point maybe that would do it. If you made a small wooden former you could try draping it over that on a baking tray and gently up the oven temp until it sagged? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 6 hours ago, Graham T said: I've done that myself with styrene, and heard of it being used for resin, but I'm not sure if it's feasible for white metal? Lump hammer? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted September 1 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 1 It's not an impossible problem - you just need a bigger hammer! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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