Chuffnell Regis

[BWsTrains]

Hi Graham,

 

you've just set a very high bar for me 🙄.

 

I can see a benefit now as mostly it's the rear of my station which will be facing the viewer. Couldn't manage it any other way with the space and plans i have

 

Colin

[Graham T]

28 minutes ago, BWsTrains said:

Hi Graham,

 

you've just set a very high bar for me 🙄.

 

I can see a benefit now as mostly it's the rear of my station which will be facing the viewer. Couldn't manage it any other way with the space and plans i have

 

Colin

 

Thanks Colin, I've enjoyed building this.  There have been some challenges of course, but most of those could be solved by sleeping on them!  The skylight for the main canopy was a good example.

 

The rear of most of Clarke's designs seem to be relatively plain, but you could always take the nuclear option and do a version of Great Alne, where the station master's house was included with the station building!

 

 

 

[Graham T]

I've made the chimney caps now, although they aren't yet actually glued in place.  I should probably add flashing around the skylights as well?  (If only to hide some of the bodgery...)

 

 

A view through the skylight...

 

 

And - one man and his dog.

 

 

So, the station building is getting close to being finished, except for some weathering.  Still waiting for some signs for the doors to arrive from the UK.  Goodness knows how long that might take though!

 

 

Edited January 7, 2023 by Graham T

[Andy Keane]

33 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I've made the chimney caps now, although they aren't yet actually glued in place.  I should probably add flashing around the skylights as well?  (If only to hide some of the bodgery...)

 

 

A view through the skylight...

 

 

And - one man and his dog.

 

 

So, the station building is getting close to being finished, except for some weathering.  Still waiting for some signs for the doors to arrive from the UK.  Goodness knows how long that might take though!

 

 

Brilliant - most impressive - I guess you will no doubt do some roof weathering as well. Tricky to know what to do about the skylights as no doubt in reality they would have been filthy but having done all the hard work being able to see through them is obviously great.

[Graham T]

45 minutes ago, Andy Keane said:

Brilliant - most impressive - I guess you will no doubt do some roof weathering as well. Tricky to know what to do about the skylights as no doubt in reality they would have been filthy but having done all the hard work being able to see through them is obviously great.

 

Thanks very much Andy.  I will indeed be weathering the roof, but as you say, I may apply Rule 1 and leave the skylights clear...

 

In the meantime I've employed a blend of masking tape and weapons-grade bodgery to add flashing around the skylights.  It's worked rather like the real thing I suppose, in that it's covered up the gaps!  This has also reminded me that I still need to paint the flashing around the chimneys.  And I suppose I really should add flashing around the edges of the flat roof over the toilet block too.

 

 

 

[Gopher]

35 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

Thanks very much Andy.  I will indeed be weathering the roof, but as you say, I may apply Rule 1 and leave the skylights clear...

 

In the meantime I've employed a blend of masking tape and weapons-grade bodgery to add flashing around the skylights.  It's worked rather like the real thing I suppose, in that it's covered up the gaps!  This has also reminded me that I still need to paint the flashing around the chimneys.  And I suppose I really should add flashing around the edges of the flat roof over the toilet block too.

 

 

 

Brilliant job Graham, so impressed with your scratch built buildings (amongst many other things), on CR.  Pack in whatever your day job is, and become a professional model maker.  

 

Clive

[Graham T]

8 minutes ago, Gopher said:

Brilliant job Graham, so impressed with your scratch built buildings (amongst many other things), on CR.  Pack in whatever your day job is, and become a professional model maker.  

 

Clive

 

Funny you should say that Clive, as I'm self-employed and finding it very difficult to get any work at the moment!

 

[MrWolf]

Masking tape isn't bodging, using old till receipts is bodging! 

 

It's really looking first class now and I do like the Brunelian chimneys.

[KNP]

Lovely building and nicely modelled.

 

There is one thing missing to my eyes and that would be the lead rolls.

Nearly every GWR building of that era would have used 4lb lead laid on the roof to protect it from the elements and as it was heavy it would only have been used in narrow strips, normally 18" to 24" wide, so the roofers could just about handle it. To join they would use wooden formers fitted to the roof and the lead dressed and lapped over these giving the roll effect.

It also allowed the lead to expand and contract without loosing its water integrity.

 

When I did Little Muddle station I represented this with plastic rod on micro strip, a fiddle (especially to keep parallel) I know but I think worth the effort

 

Attached is a picture of my station showing what I mean as I think a picture speaks a thousand words....

 

 

Sorry to be a pain and hope this is helpful.

 

 

[Gopher]

5 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

Funny you should say that Clive, as I'm self-employed and finding it very difficult to get any work at the moment!

 

Sorry to hear that Graham, hopefully things will pick up.    

 

 

Edited January 7, 2023 by Gopher

[Graham T]

4 minutes ago, KNP said:

Lovely building and nicely modelled.

 

There is one thing missing to my eyes and that would be the lead rolls.

Nearly every GWR building of that era would have used 4lb lead laid on the roof to protect it from the elements and as it was heavy it would only have been used in narrow strips, normally 18" to 24" wide, so the roofers could just about handle it. To join they would use wooden formers fitted to the roof and the lead dressed and lapped over these giving the roll effect.

It also allowed the lead to expand and contract without loosing its water integrity.

 

When I did Little Muddle station I represented this with plastic rod on micro strip, a fiddle (especially to keep parallel) I know but I think worth the effort

 

Attached is a picture of my station showing what I mean as I think a picture speaks a thousand words....

 

 

Sorry to be a pain and hope this is helpful.

 

 

 

Thanks Kevin, I didn't know about that.  The only photo I have that shows any of Rowden Mill's canopy from above looks like a felt roof, but I guess that might be a modern addition?  Was felt roofing used in the 1930s?  Adding the lead rolls to the canopy wouldn't be too much of a pain, I guess, but what about the flat roof over the toilets?

 

[KNP]

Same, lead was used everywhere as it was a tried and tested product readily available.

 

There was sarking felt, like a paper impregnated with bitumen used but mainly under tiles (wall or roof).

Asphalt was around but from what I can see the GW used mainly lead.

 

This is how I dealt with the gents toilet and store on Encombe Town station

 

 

 

[Graham T]

Darn 🥸

 

And there was I thinking I'd almost finished!  Time to break out the plastic strip and masking tape again then...

 

[Andy Keane]

21 minutes ago, Graham T said:

Darn 🥸

 

And there was I thinking I'd almost finished!  Time to break out the plastic strip and masking tape again then...

 

Agh! now I go and look very closely it seems Helston did have lead rolls when first built and the very flat bitumen was post war. These two pictures show with and without.

Graham I will be very interested to see how you get on with this as I too thought I had finished my station building.

with:

without:

[Graham T]

Watch this space!

 

[Neal Ball]

4 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

Funny you should say that Clive, as I'm self-employed and finding it very difficult to get any work at the moment!

 

Sorry to hear that Graham, hope things pick up soon for you.

[BWsTrains]

7 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

Thanks Kevin, I didn't know about that.  The only photo I have that shows any of Rowden Mill's canopy from above looks like a felt roof, but I guess that might be a modern addition?  Was felt roofing used in the 1930s?  Adding the lead rolls to the canopy wouldn't be too much of a pain, I guess, but what about the flat roof over the toilets?

 

 

Of the William Clarke stations, the only ones where I have a view with enough elevation are Upwey (1930s) anf Kingsbridge 1906. I'll PM them to you for copyright reasons. They are low resolution but if you strain your eyes, the canopy does appear to have some visible lines from back to front at Upwey. I can't see anything on the Kingsbridge canopy yet the lines defining the rows of roofing slates are visible so this sets the "nay' case.

 

Colin

Edited January 7, 2023 by BWsTrains
typo

[Graham T]

I got the photos, thanks Colin.

 

[Graham T]

I decided to add the lead rolls as per @KNP's suggestion.  You don't need to be Hawkeye to spot that I initially had a brainfart and put the plastic strips on at only half the spacing they should have been!  Whilst taking a pause I thought to myself, this looks odd, and then the 20W bulb flickered on over my head...  Luckily the extra strips were easy to remove.

 

I'm wondering about the strips on the toilet block roof though.  There is a gully along the base of the rear wall leading to a downpipe, so I'm guessing that the wooden formers wouldn't have extended all the way across the roof to the back wall.  But they look strange to me as they are.  Any suggestions please?

 

 

The chimney caps will get dry brushed with some lighter colours, and then the whole roof will be weathered.

 

[KNP]

They would form a drainage channel around the perimeter of the roof which would fall towards the rainwater collection point, and these would could be internal within the building.

In my case I did this using 20thou plastic card as the additional decking but 5 mm short around the edges which gave the impression of a channel, then drilled a small to look like an outlet at suitable points, or to an opening in the wall upstand so the water discharge into a hopper head on the external face of the wall.

 

Doing it this way allowed me to build off the model and then fix when finished.

 

 

 

[Andy Keane]

1 hour ago, Graham T said:

I decided to add the lead rolls as per @KNP's suggestion.  You don't need to be Hawkeye to spot that I initially had a brainfart and put the plastic strips on at only half the spacing they should have been!  Whilst taking a pause I thought to myself, this looks odd, and then the 20W bulb flickered on over my head...  Luckily the extra strips were easy to remove.

 

I'm wondering about the strips on the toilet block roof though.  There is a gully along the base of the rear wall leading to a downpipe, so I'm guessing that the wooden formers wouldn't have extended all the way across the roof to the back wall.  But they look strange to me as they are.  Any suggestions please?

 

 

The chimney caps will get dry brushed with some lighter colours, and then the whole roof will be weathered.

 

I am certain the strips go the whole way - when laying lead roofs you have to have them to join the strips of lead together (which as mentioned above were between 18 inches and 36 inches wide) and the strips of course run right to the edge of the drainage channel - we have some on our house and I spent a while with the guy who laid the lead who was very interesting (but had awful skin colour). In fact if you look very carefully you will see the rolls end with a chamfer with the lead wrapped over the roll and also over into the drainage channel. The strip at right angles on your canopies means you have a drainage channel all around the edge and with your roofs that seems correct - on Helston they would have been just front to back as the drainage was from the front gutter only.

What are your strips made from - are they circular strip? For ultimate realism the cross section of the strip should be P shaped - there would be a visible seam on one side only where one lead overlaps the next but I think that is going too far in 4mm!

regards

Andy

regards

Andy

[Quasimodo]

A couple of pictures of a lead roof that I was able to take this morning. This is a church tower roof that was rebuild in the 1880s. I have included my foot (size 10)  to give an indication of size. I hope that this may be of help.

[Andy Keane]

21 minutes ago, Quasimodo said:

A couple of pictures of a lead roof that I was able to take this morning. This is a church tower roof that was rebuild in the 1880s. I have included my foot (size 10)  to give an indication of size. I hope that this may be of help.

That looks like 36inch lead strips to me. And you can see the joins down one side only. And the rolls end up about 3 inches wide so a 1mm piece of round ABS on the model?

And I love the fact that it is signed - Graham how about an artist's signature in the lead?

Edited January 8, 2023 by Andy Keane

[Graham T]

6 hours ago, Quasimodo said:

A couple of pictures of a lead roof that I was able to take this morning. This is a church tower roof that was rebuild in the 1880s. I have included my foot (size 10)  to give an indication of size. I hope that this may be of help.

 

Thanks, that's very helpful.  And what a great username for messing about on church roofs!

 

[Graham T]

7 hours ago, KNP said:

They would form a drainage channel around the perimeter of the roof which would fall towards the rainwater collection point, and these would could be internal within the building.

In my case I did this using 20thou plastic card as the additional decking but 5 mm short around the edges which gave the impression of a channel, then drilled a small to look like an outlet at suitable points, or to an opening in the wall upstand so the water discharge into a hopper head on the external face of the wall.

 

Doing it this way allowed me to build off the model and then fix when finished.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Kevin.  There is an outlet to a downpipe, you can just see it above the right hand end of the toilet skylight.  So I think I'll extend the formers a little, so they end about 3-4 mm from the wall.