RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 12 hours ago, BWsTrains said: and more interesting material regarding NPCCS here https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/104961-brownstock-prototype-questiion/?do=findComment&comment=2090453 Lots of helpful info on how and where these stock were used. There is such a great amount of reference material available on this site. Almost too much! Although I would like Chuffnell Regis to portray a convincing scene, I'm not going to get (too) hung up on being hyper-realistic. Look and feel is what I'm aiming for, I suppose. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 53 minutes ago, Nick C said: Until it reaches a precariously positioned ACME 10T weight, or a cliff face with a painted-on tunnel... Classic comedy 🙂 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 As well as messing about with insects, I've been building a second "fiddle yard", based on the excellent modules from Scale Model Scenery (no connection etc. etc.) As you may know, there isn't much space here for a fiddle yard, so I've now made two of these units, one of which lives on a shelf while the other is in use. The rampant bodgery you can see at the end where the tracks connect to the layout is needed to get a smooth (ish) transition from the layout to the fiddle yard. The alignment of the joining dowels isn't as good as it should be due to poor planning on my part; the layout section had been built and installed before I had figured out how to make the connection to the fiddle yard, and so the dowels didn't get fitted during the build, when they should have been. Anyway, the joints are good enough for trains to run across them without falling off the rails! And I've learnt (another) valuable lesson for CR Mk II, where Im hoping to use a traverser. We'll see. And this has effectively doubled my off-layout storage space. I'm getting some MDF panels cut at a local workshop to fit around the sides of the fiddle yard, so that I can avoid a repeat of the disaster I had a while ago with Aberporth Grange... 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted November 3, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 WoT, no safety net? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 That's what the MDF panels are for Bill - they'll be fitted on both sides and the far end of the plank, projecting high enough above rail level to thwart any kamikazes! I won't be using the fiddle yard until they're in place. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 17 hours ago, BWsTrains said: If "splashed on" = brushed, have you discovered the Vallejo Retarder medium? You pre-wet the surface with the diluted medium and it retards the drying of the hand painted acrylic, allowing for a very fine finish to be achieved. As I can't use sprays here (domestic reasons) I've had to make do with hand painting my kits and am very happy with the results when using the medium as a preparation step Sorry to call back to this - but is there a reason why you wouldn't just mix the retarder with the paint, rather than painting it on beforehand? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 If I'm using regular Vallejo acrylics then I dilute them a little with water. I haven't yet tried their airbrush paints, but think that I will have to get some for a test drive! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 I use Vallejo acrylics exclusively and have used the retarder with their varnishes when spraying, but not used it at all while brush painting - I'm very curious :) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 2 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said: I use Vallejo acrylics exclusively and have used the retarder with their varnishes when spraying, but not used it at all while brush painting - I'm very curious :) I do find their paint very good to use. Don't suppose you know which of their range is a good match for GWR green? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted November 3, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 22 minutes ago, Graham T said: I haven't yet tried their airbrush paints, but think that I will have to get some for a test drive! The vast majority of my Vallejo paints are from their Model Air range, which I still thin with water when painting by hand. I find them extremely good and the dropper bottles are genious and stack effectively on a paint station rack. I am particularly impressed with their metalic ranges, their brass was a revelation to me, as I never thought acrylic paint could be that effective. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 31 minutes ago, Graham T said: I do find their paint very good to use. Don't suppose you know which of their range is a good match for GWR green? You'll want to ask @Mikkel about that. I painted a GWR Pannier with Vallejo but I'm not sure. I think either Game Colour Dark Green or Model Colour Black Green? It didn't offend my eye: I think as long as you're internally consistent it doesn't matter... 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) I'm sure that @chuffinghellused a Vallejo acrylic colour on his Beyer Peacock 0-4-4 which was indistinguishable from the Railmatch post 1928 GWR green I used on mine. It was certainly a good match for existing Bachmann locos that hadn't been modified. Edited November 3, 2022 by MrWolf 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 5 minutes ago, MrWolf said: I'm sure that @chuffinghellused a Vallejo acrylic colour on his Beyer Peacock 0-4-4 which was indistinguishable from the Railmatch post 1928 GWR green I used on mine. It was certainly a good match for existing Bachmann locos that hadn't been modified. Thanks for that Mr W. With a bit of luck @chuffinghell will toddle along in due course to either confirm or deny... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold simonmcp Posted November 3, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 I saw a video of a layout fiddle yard that had re-railers either side of the join with the main layout which seems a good idea. Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted November 3, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Graham T said: Thanks for that Mr W. With a bit of luck @chuffinghell will toddle along in due course to either confirm or deny... I thought I’d toddle along 😄 Is this what you’re after? about half way down this page https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/135507-warren-branch/page/288/#elControls_4823350_menu Edited November 3, 2022 by chuffinghell 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 17 minutes ago, simonmcp said: I saw a video of a layout fiddle yard that had re-railers either side of the join with the main layout which seems a good idea. Simon Could you show me what you mean please Simon? It certainly sounds like a good idea, especially if you have carpentry "skills" like mine (accurate to within half an inch or so!) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 8 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: I thought I’d toddle along 😄 Is this what you’re after? about half way down this page https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/135507-warren-branch/page/288/#elControls_4823350_menu Evening Chris, that was exactly it - thank you. Also, although I knew you'd 3D printed your loco, I hadn't actually seen the build details before for some reason. What a cracking piece of work! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) 14 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: Sorry to call back to this - but is there a reason why you wouldn't just mix the retarder with the paint, rather than painting it on beforehand? According to the bottle you can do either, pre-treat the surface or mix; there are a few "howevers" though. 1) The retarder as it comes is exceedingly thick, the minimum you can use is a rather sticky blob and since you're not supposed to add more than 5% of the paint being used, that implies mixing up a fair bit of paint to use in one go, not what you might want if blending or touching up or if opened paint is drying off quickly. 2) I can't imagine how easy the undiluted material is to add to a surface evenly when you must add at <5% of the paint being used which brings me to what the painting expert (Glen) at my model shop told me. Pre-dilute the Retarder I disperse one drop of retarder in 20 of water, it takes quite some mixing at first but you get there. Then brush the water mix over the whole surface with a broad brush. Clearly this is a clever way of spreading a low level of retarder over the surface. It works. Also in warmer, drier climates as ours (usually) wetting the surface then adding some diluted retarder to the paint makes for a much better job. Otherwise the acrylic is drying off in front of your eyes. I also dip my brushes in the diluted mix before starting painting. this helps further. Edited November 4, 2022 by BWsTrains 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 3, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2022 Ringo has now been glazed and had the roof fitted. The glazing took some fiddling to get to the right size; then I used a blob of blue tack on the end of a cocktail stick to get it in position, to avoid fingerprints everywhere! It was glued in using kristal kleer. With hindsight I think it might have been better to add the glazing before assembling the body, but then the painting would have been more difficult... Speaking of painting, I think the ends of the brake levers should be white, shouldn't they? 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, Graham T said: ........ And I've learnt (another) valuable lesson for CR Mk II, where I'm hoping to use a traverser. ......... One way the alignment issue was resolved is shown in my Traverser build as reported here Traverser Assembly Depends if you have or can get someone with the electronics skills to put something similar together. So far mine has operated without fault and usefully it incorporates the boundary interface between Code 100 storage lines and bullhead Code 75 running lines which my test loco ran over without even a blip. Edited November 4, 2022 by BWsTrains 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted November 4, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2022 10 hours ago, Graham T said: Could you show me what you mean please Simon? It certainly sounds like a good idea, especially if you have carpentry "skills" like mine (accurate to within half an inch or so!) Regarding re-railers Graham. It could be as simple as a section of card placed in the middle of the track, that is close enough to the rail to guide the wheels in the right way. The card needs to be the height of the rails. Have one on each board, with an elongated point at the entry / exit to guide the wheels onto the rail. Does that make sense? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 4, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2022 3 hours ago, BWsTrains said: One way the alignment issue was resolved is shown in my Traverser build as reported here Traverser Assembly Depends if you have or can get someone with the electronics skills to put something similar together. So far mine has operated without fault and usefully it incorporates the boundary interface between Code 100 storage lines and bullhead Code 75 running lines which my test loco ran over without even a blip. I had seen - and admired - your traverser setup quite some time ago Colin. It's something I must try to remember for CR MkII! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 4, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2022 3 hours ago, Neal Ball said: Regarding re-railers Graham. It could be as simple as a section of card placed in the middle of the track, that is close enough to the rail to guide the wheels in the right way. The card needs to be the height of the rails. Have one on each board, with an elongated point at the entry / exit to guide the wheels onto the rail. Does that make sense? It does make sense Neal, thank you. Similar to check rails I guess? Anyway, the alignment on my "fiddle yards" is good enough, although not great. I will build differently, and hopefully better, next time... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted November 4, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2022 There will be no outdoor spray painting at Chuffnell Regis today. Vienna is officially wetter than an otter's pocket. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted November 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2022 13 minutes ago, Graham T said: There will be no outdoor spray painting at Chuffnell Regis today. Vienna is officially wetter than an otter's pocket. Unfortunately it's the same here, so no planned external wintering jobs today then! Them otters are well cute though 🙂 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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