Chuffnell Regis

[Neal Ball]

8 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

Thanks Neal.  Maybe I'll try butchering my black pannier, as it will need a repaint anyway 🙂

Use a brand new knife and then sand paper to smooth it all down. Where the top feed comes off, you will be left with a hole to fill.

 

Its possible you might break off the screw down catches on the water filler lids. Hopefully they won’t ping off and you can find them to put back on later!

 

Good luck, it makes a big difference.

[KNP]

Slow and easy and those top feeds come off.

 

Used a sharp knife one with a chisel blade, nail files and some sculpting files to scrap the surface smooth.

A bit of filler and hey presto.

 

 

Go on, give it a go.

 

 

[Graham T]

2 hours ago, KNP said:

Slow and easy and those top feeds come off.

 

Used a sharp knife one with a chisel blade, nail files and some sculpting files to scrap the surface smooth.

A bit of filler and hey presto.

 

 

Go on, give it a go.

 

 

 

Ah, I haven't got any chisel blades I'm afraid Kevin - so it's a non-starter for me 🥸

 

 

[5BarVT]

11 minutes ago, Graham T said:

Ah, I haven't got any chisel blades

Do you mean “I haven't got any chisel blades yet.”

Paul.

[MrWolf]

I did actually get some chisel blades for another job, turned out to be rubbish quality, the edge curled even on plastic.

[Rowsley17D]

1 minute ago, MrWolf said:

I did actually get some chisel blades for another job, turned out to be rubbish quality, the edge curled even on plastic.

 

Swann-Morton is your friend.

[57xx]

12 hours ago, Graham T said:

The Evolution comes with a .2 and a .4 nozzle, and also two paint cups, so that sounds good.  Interesting point you make about the bigger paint cups getting in the line of sight as well...

 

I've not had any problem seeing what I'm spraying with either of the cups, usually I'm looking down the side of the brush to look at what's being painted.  The cheap brush that came with my compressor has a side cup, but your finger and trigger are still in the same place. I also find that is a bigger faf to attach/clean the side cup.

 

Best thing to do is definitely try some different brushes, so you can get a feel for what is right for you. 

[Graham T]

49 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

Swann-Morton is your friend.

 

Great scalpels.  Many is the time I inadvertently carved lumps out of myself with those when I was younger!

[Graham T]

47 minutes ago, 57xx said:

 

I've not had any problem seeing what I'm spraying with either of the cups, usually I'm looking down the side of the brush to look at what's being painted.  The cheap brush that came with my compressor has a side cup, but your finger and trigger are still in the same place. I also find that is a bigger faf to attach/clean the side cup.

 

Best thing to do is definitely try some different brushes, so you can get a feel for what is right for you. 

 

My gut feeling is that I wouldn't get on with a side cup.  I'll post a pic of my current brush shortly; I need to practice using that one more.  It might turn out to be good enough for my needs, which would save shelling out a significant chunk of cash on a new one.

 

[Neal Ball]

Re : Top feed removal.

Swan Morton no 11 blade and take your time 😎

 

Re: Airbrush:

I will pm you details of my set up. It’s a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, definitely recommended. 

[Graham T]

Ok, Bill and Neal, (aka @longchap and @Neal Ball), as threatened here are some pics of my airbrush...

 

 

It actually came with quite a lot of bits and pieces.  You can see a .2mm and .5mm nozzle, and the corresponding needles.  The needle in the brush seems to be .7mm, according to my verniers.  That seems big?

 

And also the various bits of cleaning gear...

 

 

Along with what I think is a moisture trap for fitting between the compressor and the brush?

 

And finally the destructions, for what they're worth!

 

[MrWolf]

Thanks for the blade advice everyone and also thanks to Kevin for posting a picture of his Pannier mid surgery, as I can now see that it's possible to remove the tank filler caps, which is going to make the job much easier.

[Graham T]

I spotted that too, useful to know.

[MrWolf]

It probably requires some thoughtfully applied violence.

[Graham T]

Subtly blended with psychology, of course.

[longchap]

12 minutes ago, Graham T said:

Ok, Bill and Neal, (aka @longchap and @Neal Ball), as threatened here are some pics of my airbrush...

 

 

It actually came with quite a lot of bits and pieces.  You can see a .2mm and .5mm nozzle, and the corresponding needles.  The needle in the brush seems to be .7mm, according to my verniers.  That seems big?

 

And also the various bits of cleaning gear...

 

 

Along with what I think is a moisture trap for fitting between the compressor and the brush?

 

And finally the destructions, for what they're worth!

 

Very clear photos Graham, showing a brush remarkably similar to one of the freebies included with my compressor. I suspect the seals and O rings will be rubber, so better not use it with solvents, so stick to acrylics. The water trap is essential if your compressor has none and I've seen some people connect it directly to the air brush to also use it as a handle. Possibly useful if one has oversize hands.

 

The instructions are pretty much as expected for most airbrushes and I can dig out my notes from Pendon and PM then to you if you think they may be useful. Basic stuff, but many people seen airbrushing on YouTube don't always seem aware of what effect waving the airbrush all over the place around their model has on the finish!!!

 

I'm glad to hear that you'll be using the brush more and when you are comfortable with it, who knows where it may take you.

 

😎

 

 

[Neal Ball]

50 minutes ago, Graham T said:

Ok, Bill and Neal, (aka @longchap and @Neal Ball), as threatened here are some pics of my airbrush...

 

 

It actually came with quite a lot of bits and pieces.  You can see a .2mm and .5mm nozzle, and the corresponding needles.  The needle in the brush seems to be .7mm, according to my verniers.  That seems big?

 

And also the various bits of cleaning gear...

 

 

Along with what I think is a moisture trap for fitting between the compressor and the brush?

 

And finally the destructions, for what they're worth!

 

Pretty  much the same as my set up, personally I would use the smallest needle and go from there.

 

The paint consistency is the hardest part - it needs to be like milk - and that can be quite hard to judge, but once you have it’s straightforward.

 

As for the instructions…. Throw them away and take instruction from YouTube / RMWeb.

 

Cleaning is also the key…. “But I spent ages cleaning it yesterday” is often my comment. I then started to do a cleaning session (minor) before starting again, with a (major) session as soon as I’ve finished with it.

 

Good luck…. PS try it on some wagons first 😎

 

12 minutes ago, longchap said:

Very clear photos Graham, showing a brush remarkably similar to one of the freebies included with my compressor. I suspect the seals and O rings will be rubber, so better not use it with solvents, so stick to acrylics. The water trap is essential if your compressor has none and I've seen some people connect it directly to the air brush to also use it as a handle. Possibly useful if one has oversize hands.

 

The instructions are pretty much as expected for most airbrushes and I can dig out my notes from Pendon and PM then to you if you think they may be useful. Basic stuff, but many people seen airbrushing on YouTube don't always seem aware of what effect waving the airbrush all over the place around their model has on the finish!!!

 

I'm glad to hear that you'll be using the brush more and when you are comfortable with it, who knows where it may take you.

 

😎

 

 

Oh yes! Agreed here Bill - less is more.

 

Another coat would be better than waving it around all over the place! 
 

Likewise, I await to see the results with interest.

[Andy Keane]

15 hours ago, Graham T said:

I put a coat of matt varnish on 5705 earlier today.  It's settled the GREAT WESTERN transfers down nicely, and if anything looks maybe a little too matt?  I'll give her a bit of weathering too, nothing too heavy-handed (hopefully), and then I think she will be good to go.  No I'm not going to remove the top feed, sorry!

 

 

 

Looking really nice. But one small point and I don't wish to be overly tedious but now you have changed the lettering on the side of 5705 I think it really needs a blue route code not a yellow one - I think I am right in saying the yellow code was introduced after the war as although heavy, the engines were found not to be a problem on lighter graded routes, at the time when they had GWR lettering.

Edited October 25, 2022 by Andy Keane

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, longchap said:

Very clear photos Graham, showing a brush remarkably similar to one of the freebies included with my compressor. I suspect the seals and O rings will be rubber, so better not use it with solvents, so stick to acrylics. The water trap is essential if your compressor has none and I've seen some people connect it directly to the air brush to also use it as a handle. Possibly useful if one has oversize hands.

 

The instructions are pretty much as expected for most airbrushes and I can dig out my notes from Pendon and PM then to you if you think they may be useful. Basic stuff, but many people seen airbrushing on YouTube don't always seem aware of what effect waving the airbrush all over the place around their model has on the finish!!!

 

I'm glad to hear that you'll be using the brush more and when you are comfortable with it, who knows where it may take you.

 

😎

 

 

It would be great if you could PM me those notes Bill, thanks.  More practice with the airbrush is in my near future!

 

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, Neal Ball said:

Pretty  much the same as my set up, personally I would use the smallest needle and go from there.

 

The paint consistency is the hardest part - it needs to be like milk - and that can be quite hard to judge, but once you have it’s straightforward.

 

As for the instructions…. Throw them away and take instruction from YouTube / RMWeb.

 

Cleaning is also the key…. “But I spent ages cleaning it yesterday” is often my comment. I then started to do a cleaning session (minor) before starting again, with a (major) session as soon as I’ve finished with it.

 

Good luck…. PS try it on some wagons first 😎

 

Oh yes! Agreed here Bill - less is more.

 

Another coat would be better than waving it around all over the place! 
 

Likewise, I await to see the results with interest.

 

So, I think the first thing I need to figure out is how to change the needle, and still be able to put the brush together again afterwards (I'm being serious!)  And I think I need to get some small paint bottles for mixing in as well.

 

[Graham T]

44 minutes ago, Andy Keane said:

Looking really nice. But one small point and I don't wish to be overly tedious but now you have changed the lettering on the side of 5705 I think it really needs a blue route code not a yellow one - I think I am right in saying the yellow code was introduced after the war as although heavy, the engines were found not to be a problem on lighter graded routes, at the time when they had GWR lettering.

 

Thanks Andy, I didn't know that.  Another one for the 5705 to-do list.

 

[longchap]

3 minutes ago, Graham T said:

So, I think the first thing I need to figure out is how to change the needle, and still be able to put the brush together again afterwards (I'm being serious!)  And I think I need to get some small paint bottles for mixing in as well.

I'm smiling Graham, as in my first solo flight with my new Iwata, I was carrying out a clean, then before I knew it, the brush had reduced itself to all its constituent parts and I couldn't recall precisely how it went together again! I got it to fit, but the trigger would not depress! Fortunately, I figured it out, but totally understand your concern.

 

I'll dig out my notebook and compile some notes and send them over.

[Graham T]

I know this is a complete indulgence and would probably have never been seen anywhere near Chuffnell R, but:

 

1. I like them
2. As OW said, I can resist anything except temptation
3. Rule 1

 

The roof has been resprayed with Tamiya haze grey.  Some of that bled under the masking tape here and there, so I also had to repaint the brown strip at the top (don't know what it's called?) with Vallejo chocolate brown.  I also picked out around the windows in the doors with Vallejo burnt red, and the chassis has had a light dusting of frame dirt with the dreaded airbrush.  Still need to add couplings, pipes, and passengers, and pick out the doors with a dark wash.

 

[Graham T]

2 minutes ago, longchap said:

I'm smiling Graham, as in my first solo flight with my new Iwata, I was carrying out a clean, then before I knew it, the brush had reduced itself to all its constituent parts and I couldn't recall precisely how it went together again! I got it to fit, but the trigger would not depress! Fortunately, I figured it out, but totally understand your concern.

 

I'll dig out my notebook and compile some notes and send them over.

 

Merci beacoup mon ami, tu est tres gentile.

[Graham T]

It was a holiday in Austria today, so the boss and I have been sampling some culture 🙂

 

To the cinema last night to watch "Triangle of Sadness"; thought-provoking is one way of describing that!  Quite a lot of projectile vomiting involved, a al Mr Creosote...

 

Followed by flammkuchen and a drink outside one of the many cafes in central Vienna.  Then Eggs Benedict for brunch this morning at Cafe Landtmann, followed by a visit to the Albertina art gallery.  Had a look at their latest exhibition by Basquiat, and then recovered from that with some Monet.

 

Obviously it's possible to overdo this stuff, so I have been balancing my yin with my yang this evening by breaking out the soldering iron.  Tracks and a spare point have been fitted with droppers ready for the second "fiddle yard" (in quotes because it's actually just a three track plank, but this will give me double the storage space); and I also managed to get one of the Chuffnell Regis problem children running, which was satisfying as you can imagine.  Bachmann 3F Jinty 7524 is now running about quite merrily, albeit without a sound decoder yet...

 

Edited October 26, 2022 by Graham T