RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 8, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 8, 2022 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Graham T said: I spy another loco in the background with that pesky GWR livery. The small Prairie has it too. Maybe I'll shift my time period. Or perhaps just invoke Rule 1 for now 🙂 Looks like an 0-4-2T plus autocoach. And as was pointed out these started life as 48xx on auto trains with "Great Western" before becoming 14xx and GWR after 1942 so maybe it will need lettering and renumbering? Edited August 8, 2022 by Andy Keane 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 8, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2022 26 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Looks like an 0-4-2T plus autocoach. And as was pointed out these started life as 48xx on auto trains with "Great Western" before becoming 14xx and GWR after 1942 so maybe it will need lettering and renumbering? That is indeed what's lurking in the background Andy. And it certainly needs renumbering, as it's wearing 5801 at the moment (I added an indication of auto gear to the buffer beams). Like the Collett Goods, the 0-4-2 is also weathered a bit more heavily than I'd like, so could really do with an encounter with the airbrush. Hmm... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nick C Posted August 8, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2022 On 07/08/2022 at 17:25, MrWolf said: I could well be wrong, (I'm sure that someone will point it out at great length) but I think that they date back to the old Mainline model from around forty years ago. I was tempted to buy one cheaply at a swapmeet earlier this year but managed to resist as it was filthy and there was evidence of damp storage. You're not wrong, it does. I had one, second-hand, as a kid - not sure what happened to it! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 8, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2022 31 minutes ago, Nick C said: You're not wrong, it does. I had one, second-hand, as a kid - not sure what happened to it! That explains the very basic looking innards then I suppose. But it runs nicely and has scrubbed up quite nicely I think. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 The infamous Lord Cack burst back onto the scene here just now. I'd had a brainwave - generally a bad sign and an indicator that his Lordship might be waiting in the wings. Having successfully used IPA to remove paint marks and transfers from stock in the past, I reasoned that I could use the same technique to slightly de-weather the Collett Goods. The results were mixed, but ultimately disappointing. Although some of the weathering came off rather nicely, using cotton buds and a brush (such as on the splashers), in other places it's removed the green paint too. So a visit to the paint shop will indeed be on the cards. Lord Cack has now returned to his lair, where he eagerly awaits his next victim ☹️ 1 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted August 9, 2022 Share Posted August 9, 2022 It could well be the paint used to weather the loco had softened the original finish and broken it down so that everything came away when you applied the IPA. Looking on the bright side, if you've now got to repaint her, you can file away the mould parting line along the top of the boiler amongst other things. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 Lord Crack sounds like an entity best avoided! Regarding removing transfers and painted on numbers, you might consider Tcut. I've seen it used by Charlie (Bishop?) on his Chadwick Model Railway channel with some sucess (his dabble with IPA was a dissaster as took paint off right down to the base plastic), although a nice young lady on another channel (I'll remember it sometime, sounded like McKimley Railway?) used airbrush paint reducer and a pointy thing to sucessfully remove loco numbers. As it looks as if you'll be repainting anyway . . . Bon courage you Viennese whirl you! Best, Bill 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 7 minutes ago, MrWolf said: Looking on the bright side, if you've now got to repaint her, you can file away the mould parting line along the top of the boiler amongst other things. Yes indeed, I'd noticed the mould line when I was working on the loco. So there's the silver lining! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2022 14 minutes ago, longchap said: Lord Crack sounds like an entity best avoided! Regarding removing transfers and painted on numbers, you might consider Tcut. I've seen it used by Charlie (Bishop?) on his Chadwick Model Railway channel with some sucess (his dabble with IPA was a dissaster as took paint off right down to the base plastic), although a nice young lady on another channel (I'll remember it sometime, sounded like McKimley Railway?) used airbrush paint reducer and a pointy thing to sucessfully remove loco numbers. As it looks as if you'll be repainting anyway . . . Bon courage you Viennese whirl you! Best, Bill 46. Renumbering and Weathering Locomotives at McKinley Railway. ...on the tube. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2022 How do you plan to remove the lettering on the tender? I used very fine emery paper myself but ended up taking the paint of a bit, hence the need for a crest on my tender. That together with the new lettering hid the damage there. Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 20 minutes ago, Gedward said: 46. Renumbering and Weathering Locomotives at McKinley Railway. ...on the tube. Ah, teamwork. Nothing better! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 35 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: How do you plan to remove the lettering on the tender? I used very fine emery paper myself but ended up taking the paint of a bit, hence the need for a crest on my tender. That together with the new lettering hid the damage there. Andy A couple of minutes with IPA and a cotton bud got me here - which is how I'd hoped the loco might have turned out, but... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2022 2 hours ago, Graham T said: A couple of minutes with IPA and a cotton bud got me here - which is how I'd hoped the loco might have turned out, but... Looking good - a bit of blending and / or darkening and away you go. I have just spent a happy hour putting sound into my North British type 22. It now makes very loud noises when asked! Clearly not for a 1930s operation but fun when I want to be a bit more modern. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 That reminds me, I ordered one of these from Amazon yesterday: They suggest it can also be used for bending plastic, which might be handy... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2022 9 minutes ago, Graham T said: That reminds me, I ordered one of these from Amazon yesterday: They suggest it can also be used for bending plastic, which might be handy... I tried the plastic bending trick yesterday when making the arch roof for my bridge. Dali eat your heart out: 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 51 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: I tried the plastic bending trick yesterday when making the arch roof for my bridge. Dali eat your heart out: Oops. I'm guessing that hasn't turned out 100% according to plan? I've found very hot water can be used for curving plastic rod. Ideally fix the plastic to something with the right curve - can for example - and put it in the water. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 9 minutes ago, Graham T said: I've found very hot water can be used for curving plastic rod. Ideally fix the plastic to something with the right curve - can for example - and put it in the water. I remember my cattle dock build last year, when I broke one of my cardinal rules and built the base on the cutting mat, not my plate glass, to ensure flatness and then set it aside for several hours. On my level baseboard, it rocked like Elvis, so a dunking for a minute in a bowl of near boiling water, then weighted down on the plate glass overnight and all was well and flat as a mill pond. It's how we learn, so just part of the process, but I already knew that, so stupid boy Pike! I have the Black and Decker, now some 30 years old and it is so very good in stripping years old oil based gloss off woodwork, that it would probably melt shrink wrap at 20 paces! I'll stick to waving the soldering iron at it 👍 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 I'll let you know how I get on with the Wesco item. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 9, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 I bought this rather charming little Mainline 57xx from a well known auction site in the very early days of Chuffnell Regis. That was before I made the decision to go with DCC, and this loco is very much DC. I'm reliably assured by John at Youchoos that trying to convert it to DCC is not a great idea, and so it's up for grabs if anybody would like it. You can never have too many panniers! And as we all know, they never offend 🙂 PM me if you're interested, ta. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2022 2 hours ago, longchap said: I remember my cattle dock build last year, when I broke one of my cardinal rules and built the base on the cutting mat, not my plate glass, to ensure flatness and then set it aside for several hours. On my level baseboard, it rocked like Elvis, so a dunking for a minute in a bowl of near boiling water, then weighted down on the plate glass overnight and all was well and flat as a mill pond. It's how we learn, so just part of the process, but I already knew that, so stupid boy Pike! I have the Black and Decker, now some 30 years old and it is so very good in stripping years old oil based gloss off woodwork, that it would probably melt shrink wrap at 20 paces! I'll stick to waving the soldering iron at it 👍 Following this I did indeed switch to a kettle spout which was fine. And I used my heat gun to do the shrink wrap on two sound decoders just fine. As ever the right tool in the right place helps a great deal! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted August 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2022 56 minutes ago, Graham T said: I bought this rather charming little Mainline 57xx from a well known auction site in the very early days of Chuffnell Regis. That was before I made the decision to go with DCC, and this loco is very much DC. I'm reliably assured by John at Youchoos that trying to convert it to DCC is not a great idea, and so it's up for grabs if anybody would like it. You can never have too many panniers! And as we all know, they never offend 🙂 PM me if you're interested, ta. This is a really great model Graham. I bought mine new, many years ago and have a modern etched chassis to go under it with DCC. I hope yours finds a good home. Bill 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 10, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 10, 2022 A bit like busses turning up two at the same time, having just got the Collett Goods converted to DCC, I've now heard from TMC that my replacement Dean Goods is on the way. As I requested, they've tested the new loco for me, and I'm told it's a nice runner. Fingers crossed! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 That's good news, two buses is risky, three and we start to hear the sound of approaching aircraft... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 10, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 10, 2022 I've actually bought a bus (kit) for Chuffnell R, but as you know don't have a road bridge to stand it on, fortunately! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 It will of course be: A. A period correct bus. B. Not parked in the middle of a bridge. Therefore exempt from spontaneous blitzkrieg. I don't have a problem with buses or other road transport as such. But unlike the trains, those models are static. Buses are fine parked up at a bus stop, or stuck at a level crossing or junction, same thing with cars, and thoughtfully placed they add atmosphere and set the era as much as anything else. For them to be in a position where they ought to be moving, it's a giveaway that they cannot. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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