Giles Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Some years ago, I bought a very nicely made quarry Hunslet in 0-16,5 on EBay. There were only two things wrong - I model in 0-14, and also, the chassis, although advertised as being 'tested' was not good. The gear was very badly off centre to the worm, and the worm and motor shaft projected below rail head level. It was also not an acceptable runner. It therefore went into the cupboard to wait it's turn. I pulled it out last week, and it turned out to be a good model of Gwynedd, and certainly worth doing something with. I decided to make a new chassis to 14mm gauge, and build it radio controlled, using a 3.7v k20 gearmotor for drive, with the usual Deltang Rx41 for control. The first job was to draw up all the major chassis elements - frames, motion brackets, cylinders and coupling rods. These then needed to be converted for CNC milling on my Stepcraft from 1mm nickel silver. I suppose it then takes about a day to cut all the bits out, what with one thing and another! Only about ten minutes to silver solder it all together though - using easy-flow paste, and an HH0 torch from EBay Still a long way to go. There's wheels and cranks to make, cylinder end covers and bearings etc.... Edited January 31, 2021 by Giles 6 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 That's a very nice model - well worth improving. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 17 minutes ago, Barclay said: That's a very nice model - well worth improving. It certainly is, Really well done! Interested to see how it runs on the gearmotor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) Ah.... that's quite easy..... here is one I have already done..... I bought some 'castings only' for a couple of Pecketts, and this is one of them. I find the little gearmotors are extraordinarily powerful for their size, and some have extremely good control characteristics. Edited February 1, 2021 by Giles 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 I'm interested in the locktiting of the cranks to the axles as I have some class 08 cranks to make up from several layers in etched brass. How tight a fit did they have to be to ensure the locktite did its job? Hand fitting, or with the help of a vice? Thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 A close, non-shaking hand fit, rather than a squeeze it on job.... the other thing is to have a reasonable depth. These are 1.5mm deep at the boss, and they're on 2mm diameter axles - so that gives you an idea on the surface area! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 I had some old wheels, the right diameter, but with the incorrect axle size (I need 2mm dia) so I knocked the centres out and turned up some tufnol to make new wheels. I also got the gearmotor prepped, by opening out the bore of the bevel gear, filing the boss off the back (by mounting it on a cocktail stick, and the putting it in the vise) and finally fitting it to the gearbox shaft. The plastic is to prevent the epoxy from getting on to the gearbox 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) Wheels pressed onto axles and bearings made..... Edited February 2, 2021 by Giles 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 Cranks fitted to one axle and waiting to be fitted to the rear axle. Cranks are machined from 1.6mm brass, with steel 14BA machine screws silver soldered in, and trimmed off With rods fitted. Doubtless I'll need to take them off again for something - but they needed yo be fitted in order to fit the cranks. Three of the cranks were fitted by eye, and the fourth was fitted with the rods in situ, so the chassis could be rolled backwards and forwards to settle the fourth crank in a happy median position. The chassis rolls very sweetly at the moment under a little gravity. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 Slide bars are milled from 1mm sheet as an elongated U to define the gap (and setting out) accurately - in this instance 3.5mm between inside faces of bars. The cylinder end covers have holes drilled in at this spacing to accept the bars. The bars plug through the end covers and into the cylinder plates. The bottom of the U sits into the motion bracket, and both ends get silver soldered. It's really easy to be neat and accurate like this. Cross heads were CNCd out from 2mm brass, and then a length of 0.8mm nickel silver wire butt soldered (silver) to the piston end to form the piston rod. Everything fitted, including some non-working inside valve gear to fill the gap! 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 Everything now soldered on....... The axle boxes will be restrained by clip-on brake pull-rods. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Just the motor and radio gear to fit now. 3 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 Completed and working (nicely!) A long boring video on the chassis here..... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 (edited) All round excellence The original build was first class but the conversion outstanding; well done Giles! I built the EDM/Agenoria kit a couple of years ago and it's not easy, so whoever built yours was a master. Edited February 25, 2021 by LaScala Extra information Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 Thank you! I agree - no criticism at all of the body build- it's a lovely job...... it's just the chassis didn't go right - We've all had those experiences! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Giles said: Thank you! I agree - no criticism at all of the body build- it's a lovely job...... it's just the chassis didn't go right - We've all had those experiences! Paul at EDM told me he intends to have a fresh start with the chassis and ditch the inside frames altogether and be more prototypical with working as opposed to cosmetic outers just as you have done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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