Planet Industrials - Kerr Stuart Victory RTR in OO...

[James Hilton]

Thanks Simon, you are the first to notice! It appears we’ve managed to produce an etch with two left sides. It will be resolved with the utmost haste, etches won’t be back until the new year now though. Anyone who has purchased a set will receive a replacement free of charge, we’ll email you all today.

[SteveyDee68]

3 hours ago, sdh-stbriavels said:

For James at PI

Hello, I’ve just been trying to fit the GWR etches to my Victory and they’re both left hand sides.

Can I get a RHS etch? My Victory is currently looking a bit of a mess as it goes through the westernisation, but with only one side

From whence did one acquire the big shiny dome, squire?

 

Asking for a friend

[Gordon A]

3 hours ago, James Hilton said:

Thanks Simon, you are the first to notice! It appears we’ve managed to produce an etch with two left sides. It will be resolved with the utmost haste, etches won’t be back until the new year now though. Anyone who has purchased a set will receive a replacement free of charge, we’ll email you all today.

 

Oooops.

[03060]

3 hours ago, James Hilton said:

Thanks Simon, you are the first to notice! It appears we’ve managed to produce an etch with two left sides. It will be resolved with the utmost haste, etches won’t be back until the new year now though. Anyone who has purchased a set will receive a replacement free of charge, we’ll email you all today.

 

Thanks for the quick response update James, I literally only opened my delivery 30 mins ago, I didn't think that Royal Mail worked so late but greatfully received. I'm in no rush to westernise my pair of Kerr Stewarts just yet but now realise that I need to order another set of numberplates for 667 anyway.

 

Much obliged,

Ian.

[Paul_sterling]

6 hours ago, James Hilton said:

Thanks Simon, you are the first to notice! It appears we’ve managed to produce an etch with two left sides. It will be resolved with the utmost haste, etches won’t be back until the new year now though. Anyone who has purchased a set will receive a replacement free of charge, we’ll email you all today.

Thanks James.

 

As it happens one of the etches had some scarring at the bottom of the bunker end, so a replacement RH side will cover that anyway. 

 

Thanks

Paul. 

[sdh-stbriavels]

@SteveyDee68

 

Hope you read this. The brass dome is from Springside Models. Its DA46 Dean goods dome. It’s not cheap as it’s brass and may be a bit large. Wasn’t easy to fit either. The 247 developments pannier  dome, mentioned by James, is no good as it has a flat base. 
I just couldn’t find anything else though

[D3489gibson]

Received my plain black one yesterday, started adding detailing bits, only front steps so far, prior to DCC fitting in the new year. Looked at the leaflet with it to see how to chip it, and noticed the section relating to the brake rodding removal. I looked under mine to go and remove it in preparation for DCCing, and noticed the brake rodding wasn't fitted, nor was there any in the box. 

 

 

Aside from that, it seems to be a lovely bit of kit.

 

Nathan...

[SteveyDee68]

10 hours ago, sdh-stbriavels said:

@SteveyDee68

 

Hope you read this. The brass dome is from Springside Models. Its DA46 Dean goods dome. It’s not cheap as it’s brass and may be a bit large. Wasn’t easy to fit either. The 247 developments pannier  dome, mentioned by James, is no good as it has a flat base. 
I just couldn’t find anything else though

Well, it is certainly a splendiferous addition to the loco, and will be a head-turner on the finished loco! I reckon your 4mm crew will take great pride in their charge, and keep that dome well polished!

 

Steve S

[cornelius]

38 minutes ago, D3489gibson said:

Looked at the leaflet with it to see how to chip it, and noticed the section relating to the brake rodding removal. I looked under mine to go and remove it in preparation for DCCing, and noticed the brake rodding wasn't fitted, nor was there any in the box. 

 

You should definitely have brake rodding. If you can email a clear photo of the underside of the loco with your order number and address to info@planetindustrials.co.uk I'll see if I can put together some spares.

 

Having said that the brake rodding doesn't need to be removed to open up the loco, but there is a brake valve connection under the cab which should be disconnected from either body or chassis first.

[D3489gibson]

2 hours ago, cornelius said:

 

You should definitely have brake rodding. If you can email a clear photo of the underside of the loco with your order number and address to info@planetindustrials.co.uk I'll see if I can put together some spares.

 

Having said that the brake rodding doesn't need to be removed to open up the loco, but there is a brake valve connection under the cab which should be disconnected from either body or chassis first.

 

Hiya, I've sent over an email with the requested photo and order No. 

 

Nathan... 

[SteveyDee68]

On 08/12/2023 at 20:01, SteveyDee68 said:

*** I found a working formula to calculate numbers of wagons required etc - thought I posted it on RMWeb somewhere but can’t find it!

I found it!

 

For anyone interested in expanding the traditional 5-3-3 Inglenook formula, DM me for some geeky fascinating maths explaining how adding wagons proportionately (to retain the Inglenook formula) rapidly expands the possible moves into the thousands of millions! 
 

Reduced Inglenook requires 5 wagons

Inglenook requires 8 wagons total

Inglenook+1 = 11 wagons total

Inglenook+2 = 14 wagons total

Inglenook+3 = 17 wagons total

Inglenook+4 = 20 wagons total

etc

 

Steve S

[Hroth]

2 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

I found it!

 

For anyone interested in expanding the traditional 5-3-3 Inglenook formula, DM me for some geeky fascinating maths explaining how adding wagons proportionately (to retain the Inglenook formula) rapidly expands the possible moves into the thousands of millions! 
 

Reduced Inglenook requires 5 wagons

Inglenook requires 8 wagons total

Inglenook+1 = 11 wagons total

Inglenook+2 = 14 wagons total

Inglenook+3 = 17 wagons total

Inglenook+4 = 20 wagons total

etc

 

Steve S

 

With that number of moves, perhaps you should invest in a few more locomotives as spares...

 

[BroadLeaves]

See https://arxiv.org/pdf/1810.07970.pdf for a description of how to determine if the siding lengths and headshunt lengths result in a solvable puzzle or not.

It shows how to answer questions like:

1. If I have sidings that can contain 4, 5 and 6 wagons and a headshunt that contains at most 4 wagons, what is the largest number of wagons that works?
2. Suppose I have 10 wagons and a headshunt that can contain 3 wagons. What are the shortest siding lengths I can choose?

[SteveyDee68]

4 hours ago, BroadLeaves said:

See https://arxiv.org/pdf/1810.07970.pdf for a description of how to determine if the siding lengths and headshunt lengths result in a solvable puzzle or not.

It shows how to answer questions like:

1. If I have sidings that can contain 4, 5 and 6 wagons and a headshunt that contains at most 4 wagons, what is the largest number of wagons that works?
2. Suppose I have 10 wagons and a headshunt that can contain 3 wagons. What are the shortest siding lengths I can choose?

I spent an evening simply working out how to increase the Inglenook puzzle ensuring the headshunt remained correct etc, but all that work pertained only to the Inglenook! I shall read the link with great interest - many thanks for providing it @BroadLeaves

 

Steve S

[Footy]

On 11/12/2023 at 21:11, sdh-stbriavels said:

@SteveyDee68

 

Hope you read this. The brass dome is from Springside Models. Its DA46 Dean goods dome. It’s not cheap as it’s brass and may be a bit large. Wasn’t easy to fit either. The 247 developments pannier  dome, mentioned by James, is no good as it has a flat base. 
I just couldn’t find anything else though

I'd be interested in learning more about your experiences of removing the metal dome and safety valves? 

Like you I'm waiting on the corrected etches but haven't yet started on any of the other conversion work.

Edited December 14, 2023 by Footy
Typo

[SteveyDee68]

Maths Update

 

Well, that made for an interesting read in that from page 2 onwards I was scratching my head and rereading what I’d just read in the hopes that it would make sense if I looked at it again…

 

It didn’t!

 

Despite teaching Functional Maths to trainee hairdressers, car mechanics, painters & decorators and computer programmers (amongst other subjects) and several years experience teaching Foundation GCSE to secondary age children, my own maths training ended with my O Level back in 1984 and so that academic paper very quickly started talking in a language wot I dunno much about…

 

My own formula has one stipulation in order to work - the two shorter sidings must hold the same number of wagons and the assembled train is the sum of those sidings minus one wagon and fits into the longer siding exactly. The headshunt must be equal in length to a short siding plus the length of the loco (L). Maximum number of wagons is equal to the train length (TL) aka the length of the siding the train is assembled upon, plus the length of one shorter siding:

 

INGLENOOK

Siding A = 3

Siding B = 3

Siding C = 5 (A+B-1 = 3+3-1 = 6-1 = 5)

Headshunt = A+L

Max No of Wagons = A+C = 5+3 = 8

 

MIN INGLENOOK

Siding A = 2

Siding B = 2

Siding C = 3 (A+B-1 = 2+2-1 = 4-1 = 3)

Headshunt = A+L

Max No of Wagons = A+C = 3+2 = 5

 

INGLENOOK expanded +1

Siding A = 4

Siding B = 4

Siding C = 7 (A+B-1 = 4+4-1 = 8-1 = 7)

Headshunt = A+L

Max No of Wagons = A+C = 4+7 = 11

 

INGLENOOK expanded +2

Siding A = 5

Siding B = 5

Siding C = 9 (A+B-1 = 5+5-1 = 10-1 = 9)

Headshunt = A+L

Max No of Wagons = A+C = 5+9 = 14)

 

Let’s go a bit daft for a moment …

 

INGLENOOK expanded +6

Siding A = 9

Siding B = 9

Siding C = 17 (A+B-1 = 9+9-1 = 18-1 = 17)

Headshunt = A+L

Max No of Wagons = A+C = 9+17 = 26
 

HOURS OF FUN! 

Edited December 15, 2023 by SteveyDee68

[sdh-stbriavels]

11 hours ago, Footy said:

I'd be interested in learning more about your experiences of removing the metal dome and safety valves? 

Like you I'm waiting on the corrected etches but haven't yet started on any of the other conversion work.

To be honest if I had my time over again I wouldn't take the dome off. It wasn't easy and took a lot of cutting and particularly filing. The latter leading to minor damage to the boiler. I think the new dome I have is too tall, but a search revealed nothing better. The dome James suggests is not suitable as it has a flat base. The safety valve I took off with a small razor saw and then flatten ed off with a file

[franciswilliamwebb]

My sound-fitted example arrived today, what a beast!  Definitely a "best buy" 😎

[Captain Kernow]

Just a quick couple of questions, if I may.

 

I have to remove the wheels and motion from one of my Kerr Stuarts, in order to convert it to P4. I have some Gibson wheels and 3mm axles ready.

 

Does the brake gear come away easily, please, in order to remove the keeper plate?

 

Also, does anyone know if anyone produces the distinctive balance weights, please?

 

Thanks.

 

[cornelius]

Just now, Captain Kernow said:

Does the brake gear come away easily, please, in order to remove the keeper plate?

 

The brake rodding should unclip from between the shoe hangers and come away from the underside of the loco.

 

Not sure about the balance weights but if it would be helpful I could have a look at etching some based on our wheels.

[Captain Kernow]

Just now, cornelius said:

 

The brake rodding should unclip from between the shoe hangers and come away from the underside of the loco.

 

Not sure about the balance weights but if it would be helpful I could have a look at etching some based on our wheels.

Thank you very much indeed for the information.

 

Some etched balance weights would be perfect, many thanks again, I'm happy to pay of course (in fact, I need two sets, possibly three...)

 

[Rich Uncle Skeleton]

Mine arrived a couple of days ago, and my first thought when taking it out the box was how heavy it is! I’m glad I bought two.

[Fair Oak Junction]

Yes, I always enjoy picking mine up. The weight of it is incredibly satisfying 👌

[Wickham Green too]

14 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

... I have to remove the wheels and motion from one of my Kerr Stuarts, in order to convert it to P4. I have some Gibson wheels and 3mm axles ready. ... Also, does anyone know if anyone produces the distinctive balance weights, please?

As discussed umpteen pages ago, it won't be simple matching balance the weights to Gibson wheels as the weights are integral to the Kerr Stuart wheels and take the place of some of the spokes  -  consequently, the other spokes are oddly spaced.

[Penrhos1920]

15 hours ago, cornelius said:

 

The brake rodding should unclip from between the shoe hangers and come away from the underside of the loco.

 

Not sure about the balance weights but if it would be helpful I could have a look at etching some based on our wheels.

 

I’ll have a set please.  Do you have any plans to do the numberplates for the A(N&SW)D&R pair please?