ianb3174 Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 (edited) I've now entered the realm of 1:64 with membership of the society, planned a test cameo and sent an order off to the stores. This will be my thread to log my efforts. As most of you are further down the S line than me I won't bore you with too much detail. Basically the cameo is of a simple crossover at the end of a small station. Nothing too ambitious for now. It's built on a former IKEA shelf and the track will be laid on 5mm foamboard. I'll be using society rail, chairs and sleepers for the track. There will be scenic breaks at each end, though the one over the platform might be a footbridge. As with most of my plans/ideas the use of straight sections of track has been minimised. The first stage will be to get some track down and hack a test wagon together. Don't expect exhibition quality straight from the get go, I'm still only learning. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I could do with taking a leaf out of your book, I've been modelling in S Scale for a number of years now and still not laid any track. I'll look forward to watching this progress, thank you for posting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 A big box of S scale goodies has arrived. Let's see what happens Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 4, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2020 On 03/07/2020 at 15:35, ianb3174 said: Am I right in detecting an influence of Llangunllo at work here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 (edited) I wasn't aware of that layout until just. Any similarity is purely unintentional. Initially I was trying to invoke a little bit of LLanymynech S&M in a later WD time. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2020 14 hours ago, ianb3174 said: I wasn't aware of that layout until just. Any similarity is purely unintentional. Any comparison is pure praise. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2020 That is a very nice and simple design. Would you be considering using a sector plate type fiddle on the left-hand side to allow run-around of stock? Could make a very good & compact layout that way. I often regret not continuing with S back in the day. Such is life. Izzy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 I haven't given much thought to operation as yet. I tend to over complicate my plans with all sorts of loops and crossovers to aid shunting, then realise I've run out of space. Due to constraints I have little permanent space to host a layout. I can only design compact designs that could be stored vertically. One day I'll be able to spread out, I have the ideas ready. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 21 hours ago, Regularity said: Am I right in detecting an influence of Llangunllo at work here? More like Ian Futers' later 7mm Otterburn plan I think! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2020 1 hour ago, MartinWales said: More like Ian Futers' later 7mm Otterburn plan I think! No. One turnout too few. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Still feels nice and minimalist though! Nothing to stop you making it modular maybe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) My first section of track is down, all 7" of it. Might have a go at making a test chassis tomorrow if I get time. In other scales I've usually knocked something together with the wheelbase of a CCT or similar, the rationale being that if a long wheelbase wagon can negotiate it then it's likely ok for everything else. Similarly I've also been wrong before. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Blimey Ian that's quick (and good) work - I only sent the parts on Friday! It looks a great project and shows what can be done in a small space. And there will be plenty of help here from S scalers and other modellers if you need it. All power to your arm, Paul. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 I'm sure I'll need help along the way. I'm impressed by the quality of the parts btw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) Today's efforts. Knocked together a CCT sized test chassis. 40 thou plastic sheet for floor, headstocks and solebars. Most likely not prototypically accurate but only took 15 mins to make. Scaled from the basic drawing I used the solebars came out at 12" deep. Yes, they are too far apart, I think they should be just wider than the buffer spacing (no info on the drawing). Usual techniques as outlined by others on this page. Scribed centrelines and W iron positions first (I haven't always worked that methodically) and quick blast with the solvent using Mk1 eyeball. 20ft wheelbase, Society W irons and wheels and salvaged 4mm bearings (must get some more). I might have a practice making a body for it when I have more time. I'm liking the overall size of S. Bigger, but small enough to be large but not huge One question; I have never soldered up my W irons in any scale, is it something that is recommended? Also the trackgang are being spoken to about the step in the rail at the joint. A fishplate will sort it Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, ianb3174 said: One question; I have never soldered up my W irons in any scale, is it something that is recommended? Ian, You will probably be OK. The society etches are 15thou nickel silver so there's about 8 thou thickness at the etch fold lines, which will be pretty strong provided you don't bend them too many times. :-) I always solder my fold lines because that's the way I've always done it. :-) Jim. Edited July 8, 2020 by flubrush Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) Progress has been slow due to inundation of work post lockdown. I have managed to lay some turnout timbers and have a play with version 15b of my TOU idea. Basically it's 3mm square rod inside 5mm square tube (forgive the metric), two slots in the top surface and brass wire inserted vertically which will be trimmed and form the basis of the cosmetic tiebar. That's the plan. Obviously they'll be trimmed for height and alignment once the rails are in place. The reason I've used thicker wire at this stage is because a previous version (in EM) suffered because the wire was too flimsy and didn't hold the switchblades tightly enough without bending out of shape. It's also installed at this point in the proceedings as it's nigh on impossible to add it to a turnout built in situ, like I always end up doing. I should know better but I often don't. Tomorrow may have the trackgang down for some more work...or they may just drink tea in the hut all day and sign off early. It is a Friday after all. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Great progress Ian! I really like the TOU and may try this approach on a future layout - I'll be interested in how it turns out. All the best, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Very interested TOU - certainly I've never seen anything like that at the surface of the baseboard. - I agree that it's looking great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSi Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Slightly off topic: The term foam board is often mentioned at RMweb. What brand are You using? The thread "Remove paper from foam board" introduced several brand names: Westfoam, Peterboro and Kapa. It appears that different brands use different types of glue for laminating the paper/card on foam core. if foam board is used as track foundation, how does the paper/cardboard lamination stay on the foam core if the ballast is glued by liberally soaking it with diluted PVA glue, acrylic matte medium or Woodland Scenics' Scenic Cement? Was it necessary to coat the paper/card to make it waterproof? [I'm more of an armchair modeller now, with no experience of today's materials or techniques. If this is not the correct forum, then please move... /PSi] pekka Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 The foamboard I use is unbranded and was purchased from an online art supply store. It's nominally 5mm thick and coated both sides with a thin paper which has a satin finish. I glue my templot printouts to it using glue sticks. I use a shop brand glue stick that is harder that Pritt and covers more evenly. If left with a plan glued to one side the foamboard will slightly warp over time (weeks) but this is not significant (10-15mm over 1m) and can be rectified by gluing down to the baseboard. For track that I build which doesn't have an immediate home I glue paper to the reverse side and this cures the warping issue. In terms of ballasting I use (have used) diluted PVA. There is no appreciable ingress of the glue into the foam layer as far as I can tell. PVA glue dries on the surface over time and forms a very secure bond. I've built temporary structures for sizing etc and they are very robust Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 (edited) The track gang have a Sunday evening occupation and all they can manage is part of a common crossing. This one is machined to within the nearest couple of inches using the MK1 eyeball method. Prior to S scale I'd become accustomed to my Code 75 crossing filing jig, so this was back to my old ways, hacking chairs in half and a bit of bodge, then bury it in weeds and ballast before the rivets can be counted. It 'is' in line with the template, the angle makes the nose look a mile out. Thoughts and feedback welcomed Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted August 2, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2020 Looks good Ian. To me the angle is right, and smooth meeting of the two rails is nice. Presume you are using S Scale Society chairs? Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 I wonder if 3D printed chairs would work for those specialist versions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted August 3, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2020 They do in other scales, so presumably would work here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now