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Llanbourne North Wales in the 80s.


P.C.M
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Nice, Peter, very nice.

 

Love the weathering on the 40 and 25 in particular. 

 

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Dave,

I see you have been busy, your class 47s are looking great.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Excellent pics as always Peter, I have to agree with Dave, (above) about the superb weathering.

Thanks Andy, Still more stock to be weathered but it's been a bit cold here recently so I haven't done any modelling recently.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi Peter,

 

Always nice to see more photos from your layout. It's looking great.

 

Cheers

Mark

Thanks Mark,

I still have a lot to do but it's getting there.

 

Cheers Peter.

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The older models blend in seamlessly with newer stock thanks to the right weathering and detailing in the right surroundings. I see you modified the fuel tank on 25109; makes all the differance. I don't think the Bachmann 25 is such the bad model that some people make out. It got me right back into modelling and set a standard at the time.

 

  Speaking of older models Peter.  What was fitting the flushglazing to the Lima mk2s like? I fitted SE flushglaze to 3 Hornby mk2s some years ago and it was a nightmare as the frames needed filing out to fit and even then the toplights kind of crushed a bit. Are the Lima ones a lot of work? I'm thinking of turning my motley collection into a rake of Mk2Cs. Also notice how your rake is close coupled. Is this via KDs or someother method?

 

Last question. My Lima/Hornby PCA Vee tanks seem to ride higher than yours. Have you lowered them or anything?

 

Cheers

Andy

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Very nice Peter, in that first image above, it's the first time I've noticed the Siding outside the Fuel Depot fencing, a really nice touch, and very useful photographically.

Thanks Andy,

That siding is the headshunt for the yard. Part of which is hidden by the bridge. It's long enough to leave a couple of wagons up by the blocks I often dump the barrier wagons there.

 

Cheers Peter.

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The older models blend in seamlessly with newer stock thanks to the right weathering and detailing in the right surroundings. I see you modified the fuel tank on 25109; makes all the differance. I don't think the Bachmann 25 is such the bad model that some people make out. It got me right back into modelling and set a standard at the time.

 

  Speaking of older models Peter.  What was fitting the flushglazing to the Lima mk2s like? I fitted SE flushglaze to 3 Hornby mk2s some years ago and it was a nightmare as the frames needed filing out to fit and even then the toplights kind of crushed a bit. Are the Lima ones a lot of work? I'm thinking of turning my motley collection into a rake of Mk2Cs. Also notice how your rake is close coupled. Is this via KDs or someother method?

 

Last question. My Lima/Hornby PCA Vee tanks seem to ride higher than yours. Have you lowered them or anything?

 

Cheers

Andy

Hi Andy,

I really like my class 25s, the Bachmann model does have it's faults but I can live with that. They do run really well. I did do some work on the fuel tanks but very little else, I am tempted to have a go at removing some of the plastic from the chassis which will improve the look at bit.

The flushglazing is a pain on the Hornby MK2s I have done quite a few now and find filing out the back of the window frames is the only way. I use a knife to scrape round the edges and the toplights are the hardest to do and some of mine look better than others. I even filed the glazing too if it's a close fit. From memory the Lima ones are easier to do. I still have a few to do myself.

 

I use Kadee's on Llanbourne and the coach rakes are all Kadee'd up using various types of Kadee to get them as close as I can.

 

I have a mix of Lima and Hornby PCAs and the Hornby ones do sit about 1.5mm to high, and I use the same wheels under both types. From what I can see the moldings are the same but the axle holes are slightly different. 

 

Hope this helps. Cheers Peter.

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Hi Peter

Another "Like" from me for the latest photos ..especially the 40 on the MCV/ZCVs.

I know many of these wagons, and converted MSVs, were later painted into Dutch livery, but do you have any idea how long they lasted in departmental use?

I remember seeing a rake of them behind a 56 sometime around 1990 and the noise from the unfitted wagons rattling along behind the loco was incredible.

 

Alan

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Hi Peter

Another "Like" from me for the latest photos ..especially the 40 on the MCV/ZCVs.

I know many of these wagons, and converted MSVs, were later painted into Dutch livery, but do you have any idea how long they lasted in departmental use?

I remember seeing a rake of them behind a 56 sometime around 1990 and the noise from the unfitted wagons rattling along behind the loco was incredible.

 

Alan

Hi Alan,

My ZHV's are 16t minerals with slots cut in the side to stop overloading, as far as I know none of these were painted into the Dutch livery. MCv's or the departmental ZKV's were old iron ore tipplers with no side doors. I had a quick look at Paul Bartlett's wagon website and it shows some painted in the Dutch liv. Not sure how long they lasted but some pics were dated 1990. 

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi Alan,

My ZHV's are 16t minerals with slots cut in the side to stop overloading, as far as I know none of these were painted into the Dutch livery. MCv's or the departmental ZKV's were old iron ore tipplers with no side doors. I had a quick look at Paul Bartlett's wagon website and it shows some painted in the Dutch liv. Not sure how long they lasted but some pics were dated 1990. 

 

Cheers Peter.

Thanks Peter..

I didn't realise the ZHVs weren't re-painted. I've got about 15 n gauge MCOs and can't make up my mind whether to sell them or transfer them to the engineers dept. No problem if they were around into the early 90s but don't think I'll cut holes in the sides. The brake gear would be inaccurate but not a big problem in n gauge.

 

Cheers

Alan

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Hi Alan,

My ZHV's are 16t minerals with slots cut in the side to stop overloading, as far as I know none of these were painted into the Dutch livery. MCv's or the departmental ZKV's were old iron ore tipplers with no side doors. I had a quick look at Paul Bartlett's wagon website and it shows some painted in the Dutch liv. Not sure how long they lasted but some pics were dated 1990. 

 

Cheers Peter.

The ones I saw at Cockshute were all rusty and that's the way I've done my three 7886328996_5162b0357a_h.jpgZHV wagons Cockshute by Simon Barnes, on Flickr

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Thanks Peter..

I didn't realise the ZHVs weren't re-painted. I've got about 15 n gauge MCOs and can't make up my mind whether to sell them or transfer them to the engineers dept. No problem if they were around into the early 90s but don't think I'll cut holes in the sides. The brake gear would be inaccurate but not a big problem in n gauge.

 

Cheers

Alan

No worries Alan,

My 4mm wagons are mainly old Airfix kits. I did do some with clasp brakes but they are not 100% correct but they look ok. The slots were a pain to do so would be really hard to do in N gauge.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Peter how do you find the Kadee couplings? I notice you have them fitted to one class 25 that has snowploughs, how have you achieved that please? 

Hi Nick,

I think they are great. I can uncouple loco's from trains with underboard magnets some of which are electromagnets. It means hand free operation. Kadee's do need to be set at the right height and as with anything not a 100% perfect they need tweeking now and then.

 

I have two class 25s with ploughs both are done pretty much the same way. Hopefully the pics will show what I have done but I use Heljan ploughs and cut a hole for the NEM pocket type Kadee to go through I use number 18 or 19's I cut the tail bit off but leave enough to glue to the back of the centre plough. 

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi Nick,

I think they are great. I can uncouple loco's from trains with underboard magnets some of which are electromagnets. It means hand free operation. Kadee's do need to be set at the right height and as with anything not a 100% perfect they need tweeking now and then.

 

I have two class 25s with ploughs both are done pretty much the same way. Hopefully the pics will show what I have done but I use Heljan ploughs and cut a hole for the NEM pocket type Kadee to go through I use number 18 or 19's I cut the tail bit off but leave enough to glue to the back of the centre plough. 

 

Cheers Peter.

Nice idea Peter, very simple but effective.

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Thanks for the photos Peter, I get the idea, I will have a go as I have some Heljan ploughs. The electromagnets, do you use the Kadee #309 Delayed Electric Under Track Uncoupler with a switch or Kadee #308 Delayed Action Under Track Uncoupler?

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Awesome fitting of the ploughs on the Class 25, nice job  :good:

 

Thanks for the photos Peter, I get the idea, I will have a go as I have some Heljan ploughs. The electromagnets, do you use the Kadee #309 Delayed Electric Under Track Uncoupler with a switch or Kadee #308 Delayed Action Under Track Uncoupler?

 

Hi Nick,

 

On my layout, Jubilee Road, I have used Kadee #309's with push buttons to activate them.  This is the first time I have used them and they are superb.  I used the #309's to replace the #308s used originally on mine (because the permanent magnets tended to pull the metal wheels on the stock towards them when trying to uncouple)

 

 

Hopefully this is useful

Simon

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Thanks for the photos Peter, I get the idea, I will have a go as I have some Heljan ploughs. The electromagnets, do you use the Kadee #309 Delayed Electric Under Track Uncoupler with a switch or Kadee #308 Delayed Action Under Track Uncoupler?

Hi Nick,

I have used both, but as Simon said the 308s can attract wagons if they have steel wheels and axles. I have replaced a lot of my wheels with 'Steam Era' wheels which have a brass axle. The 309s can do the same but it normally only happen's if you are only leaving the one wagon. 

I don't use the plastic base on the 309s I try and hide them under ballast using small bits of plasticard. They sit a bit lower but still work.

 

Pic below shows a 309 before ballasting. Not a great pic but all I could find.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Edited by P.C.M
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Hi Nick,

I think they are great. I can uncouple loco's from trains with underboard magnets some of which are electromagnets. It means hand free operation. Kadee's do need to be set at the right height and as with anything not a 100% perfect they need tweeking now and then.

 

I have two class 25s with ploughs both are done pretty much the same way. Hopefully the pics will show what I have done but I use Heljan ploughs and cut a hole for the NEM pocket type Kadee to go through I use number 18 or 19's I cut the tail bit off but leave enough to glue to the back of the centre plough. 

 

Cheers Peter.

Humps and bumps in the track, particularly at baseboard joints, are Kadee-killers too. Towards the end of the life of one very well-known main line layout in Sydney it was rare to see a Kadee-fitted train make a full circuit without uncoupling, due to dampness having affected the chipboard.

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Humps and bumps in the track, particularly at baseboard joints, are Kadee-killers too. Towards the end of the life of one very well-known main line layout in Sydney it was rare to see a Kadee-fitted train make a full circuit without uncoupling, due to dampness having affected the chipboard.

Hi John, Don't have that problem. It's very rare for a train to split on Llanbourne. Unless I have set the points wrong, and that does happen. lol

 

Cheers Peter.

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So I have done some drawings and a mate of mine has printed off some engine shed walls on his 3D printer. What do you think? I thought they might be a bit high but I am not sure. May be the windows are too high?

 

Cheers Peter.

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