locomotive kits 30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER

[30368]

Some real progress with the T6. Valve gear etc functions well. Slidebars need a bit of fettling and so do the scratch built crossheads. I will move on to the pickups now so that I can run in the chassis.

 

Chassis needs further crossmembers its a bit too flexible.

 

Note that the rear wheels are off the table due to the solid chunks of brass that are the cylinders.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[gz3xzf]

On 02/10/2023 at 16:28, 30368 said:

Well I thought it was going too well! Just had to dismantle chassis and remove the cylinders and slide bars etc. The holes for the two piston rods were only partially drilled and not enough to allow the correct stroke. Impossible to re-drill with the cylinders in situ. My fault really, I should have checked! They are now!

Ah well put it down to experience! Bu**er!

 

Nothing to show really...

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

 

 

Hi Richard,

Not sure about the T6, but the T3 was built with tail rods on the pistons, they were removed by Drummond from 1900; I guess because it was decided they were not required. The restoration in 1960/1 it was decided to reinstate these (I have seen one video where you can see them, link below), the idea is that the piston head is supported both ends of the cylinder. From my point of view is that there are another set of glands that require oil and maintenance, so not sure they are useful.

 

Here's the video, it should start at 3:12 where as the loco passes you can see the tail rod at the front of the cylinder: -

https://youtu.be/feTU6UJq2DU?si=kgH66V4aUOhbNJSy&t=192

 

BTW the T3 was also built with a compensated suspension system which was removed around 1906 and replaced in the 1960/1 restoration.

 

Hope this is useful (and not a problem!!). 😁

 

Edited October 5, 2023 by gz3xzf
Typo

[30368]

On 05/10/2023 at 08:20, gz3xzf said:

From my point of view is that there are another set of glands that require oil and maintenance, so not sure they are useful.

 

Hi Bryan,

 

Spoken like a true engine fitter! Welcome to the club.

 

T6 and X6 were built without tailrods. Many thanks for your help.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

[gz3xzf]

Richard

I have spotted something else which wasn't on 563 when I took the photos for you, they have fitted the safety valve shroud, I grabbed this from The Southerners video of the T3 launch day: -

 

[30368]

8 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

I have spotted something else which wasn't on 563 when I took the photos for you, they have fitted the safety valve shroud, I grabbed this from The Southerners video of the T3 launch day

 

Great image Bryan - detail of the whistle(s) "manifold" and associated pipework. Thanks very much.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

After some real struggles with the scratch built crossheads, slidebars, piston rods I have managed to get it all working fairly well.

 

 

The running plate is not pulled down just resting on the frames - the top slidebar will not be really visable when the running plate is correctly located. The running plate also a fair bit of material removed to clear the coupling rod and connecting rod big end.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[gz3xzf]

Hi Richard

The build is looking good, having the bogie in position seems to have cured the balance of the loco. What type of pick-ups are you going with?

I have noticed another interesting difference between the different locos in the T6 class, some seem to have two bar motion (as in your model) and some single bar motion. A trawl through images on the Internet shows this although it is difficult to see which loco the change took place.

Also on the T3 the big end is nearest the wheel and a couple of the Images on the internet appear that some of the T6's were the same, although as with the slide bars, this could be different on some of the members of the class.

Here is a close-up of the T3's left hand big end: -

 

Hope this is useful.

[Mallard60022]

On 09/10/2023 at 13:42, 30368 said:

After some real struggles with the scratch built crossheads, slidebars, piston rods I have managed to get it all working fairly well.

 

 

The running plate is not pulled down just resting on the frames - the top slidebar will not be really visable when the running plate is correctly located. The running plate also a fair bit of material removed to clear the coupling rod and connecting rod big end.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

 

On 09/10/2023 at 13:42, 30368 said:

After some real struggles with the scratch built crossheads, slidebars, piston rods I have managed to get it all working fairly well.

 

 

The running plate is not pulled down just resting on the frames - the top slidebar will not be really visable when the running plate is correctly located. The running plate also a fair bit of material removed to clear the coupling rod and connecting rod big end.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

 

On 09/10/2023 at 13:42, 30368 said:

After some real struggles with the scratch built crossheads, slidebars, piston rods I have managed to get it all working fairly well.

 

 

The running plate is not pulled down just resting on the frames - the top slidebar will not be really visable when the running plate is correctly located. The running plate also a fair bit of material removed to clear the coupling rod and connecting rod big end.

 

Kind regards,

30368

Looks like loads of room above that Motor and both Drivers, for LEAD?

Phil.

[30368]

1 hour ago, gz3xzf said:

Hope this is useful.

 

Very useful Bryan, thanks. Like you I don't know when each T6 received double slide bars (I think one retained the single slidebar set up) but I have an image of 681, taken in 1933 when on Basingstoke shed, with double slide bars and this is the loco I will model since it was the last engine in service, being withdrawn in 1943.

 

Your image confirms that I had the connecting rod on the wrong side of the coupling rod... my only excuse being my eyes are not as good as they were! Thanks again.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

[30368]

The motor is all wired up and wiper pick-ups fitted although it is very hard to find anywhere to fit them! I will fit pick-ups in the tender too. The motor location needs a little adjustment for proper meshing.

 

Pick-up locations, leading piece of PCB moved.... The pick-ups work fine.

 

 

I have started on the body, it is really hard to decide where to start and no location slots are present on the etchings but I'm not complaining, I knew it was going to be tricky. And it is! Solder not cleaned up yet. My biggest worry is boiler location and clearances. The boiler is rolled but is very thin, I think the boiler bands may have been etched.

 

 

I may scratch build the Adams tender. I think Brassmasters make a suitable tender kit (ex Martin Finney) which will make a very accurate model of the tender but is a bit expensive. Then again, scratch building takes ages so perhaps I will buy the kit.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[30368]

I know I still have a few jobs to do on the chassis but looking at the etches provided in the kit, and the lack of locating slots, I have decided to get enough of the body built so that the boiler is accurately located and clears the motor and gearbox.

 

Firstly the specticle plate was soldered to the two cab sides, easier said than done! The specticle includes location for the forebox and part of the rear splasher top. All the holes required to route pipes,whistles and safety valves drilled first. Very hard to get it all aligned and save finger burns....

 

The boiler is very fragile although this makes cutting away for clearanc easier. I soldered a brass strip (seen below the boiler in the image) to one half of the boiler so that it overlapped the edge then soldered this to the other boiler half. The boiler edges are a butt joint to create the correct diameter so brass strip was essential.

A brass disc is the correct size for the boiler outside diameter I soldered this to the smokebox just in from the smokbox end. Probably add a bit more solder oh and the fingers are not to scale.

The un-etched part of the boiler that provides the smokebox "wrapper" is really undersize as you can see from the smockbox front which is also the front if the wraparound smokebox saddle and front of the running plate.

I looked in vain for a smokebox wrapper so I will have to scratch build one. The smokebox is noticably larger in diameter than the boiler on the prototype.

 

Tricky but enjoying (mostly) the challenge.

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

Edited October 14, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

A quick update. The boiler and smokebox are just about complete except for the rear of the smokebox saddle. In the end I had to put two wrappers around the smokebox. The first plan the second with snap head rivets as per my picture of 681.

 

The "tray in front of the smokebox is the running plate section which is lower than the rest of the running plate at the same level as the buffer beam.

 

 

THe second wrapper is slightly extended at the front to create the boiler band at the boiler end of the smokebox and a recess at the font of the smokebox for the chamfered edge of the smokebox front so that it sits flush with the front of the smokebox. Not cleaned up yet.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

Edited October 15, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

Splashers today, what fun! The splashers supplied with the kit are various width, legnth and tickness etc. None of them are suitable without cutting and shaping I did use one but the second was scratch built. I used a thin card tenplate to since the top section of the splasher need to be tapered off to clear the curve of the boiler. Very difficult, in fact impossible, to avoid burnt fingers soldering the splasher tops to the sides. I had decided to solder the splasher tops first, before fitting the boiler, to improve soldering iron access to the splashers.

 

First one in place, note the hole for the feed pipe to the boiler mounted clack valves. Notice too the hole for same in the kit supplied splasher which was in the wrong place.

 

Splasher tops still need a little fettling before the boiler fits easily.

 

Glad that is over, rest of body construction should be relatively easy.....

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[30368]

Workshop now closed for the night - boiler soldered in position.

 

All holes drilled in the boiler before assembly to the running plate.

 

Starting to look like one of Mr Adam's graceful 4-4-0s...

 

Kind regards and goodnight...

 

30368

[30368]

Chimney and dome fitted so could not resist a few more shots of the emerging beauty.

 

What is that beat up old 700 class behind doing?

 

My goodness, that 30368 (Needs a new 3) gets in everywhere!

 

THe leading driver is well off the rail, lack of lead in the boiler and/or too strong a spring fitted to the bogie pivot.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[30368]

Last update for today. Just running in the chassis - seems to work well but will need pick-ups in the tender. It is humming away in the background as I write this.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[micklner]

What do you think of the High Level Motor , what size is it please ?

Edited October 18, 2023 by micklner

[Mallard60022]

I've seen some interesting Track Cleaning vehicles, but this is unique.

Forget this, I'm daft!

P

[Michael Edge]

I always use compensation for 4-4-0s, I find bogie springing too hard to get just right, especially for a lightweight loco like this.

[30368]

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

I always use compensation for 4-4-0s, I find bogie springing too hard to get just right, especially for a lightweight loco like this.

Thanks for the tip for the future Mike. I will add a great deal of lead to the loco boiler ahead of the motor and over (as far as possible)  the trailing driver. It usually works well and has done so on my L12, S11, T9 and D1 although not without some cursing.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

Edited October 18, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

5 hours ago, micklner said:

What do you think of the High Level Motor , what size is it please ?

Hi Mick,

 

The motor and gearbox are:

 

1219C HLPower Coreless

SKU:

M3

Price:

£27.00

 

RoadRunner COMPACT

SKU:

GB3

Worm Bore:

1.5mm

Gearbox Ratio:

45:1

Axle Diameter:

1/8in

Price:

£16.00

 

Both motor and gearbox selected for low profile given small boiler. The coreless 1219C is very powerful for its size as are all coreless motors. I heve found HL components very good as I do Branchlines gearboxes and Mashima Motors - when you can get them.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

[30368]

2 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

I've seen some interesting Track Cleaning vehicles, but this is unique.

 

Agree Phil, as you can see the track cleaner driving unit is really struggling to move the track cleaner.....the rails are filthy....

 

Richard

[jwealleans]

11 hours ago, 30368 said:

1219C HLPower Coreless

 

I tried both the HL coreless motors and found the smaller one to be higher revving than the larger, which was a bit of a problem in a small goods 0-6-0.   Overall I'll stick to them when my current stock of Mashimas and others runs out, I think, they've worked well up to now.

[micklner]

12 hours ago, 30368 said:

Hi Mick,

 

The motor and gearbox are:

 

1219C HLPower Coreless

SKU:

M3

Price:

£27.00

 

RoadRunner COMPACT

SKU:

GB3

Worm Bore:

1.5mm

Gearbox Ratio:

45:1

Axle Diameter:

1/8in

Price:

£16.00

 

Both motor and gearbox selected for low profile given small boiler. The coreless 1219C is very powerful for its size as are all coreless motors. I heve found HL components very good as I do Branchlines gearboxes and Mashima Motors - when you can get them.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

Thanks I always use HL boxes . I am building a B16 at the moment or I have a A2 in the pile, the motor sounds good for either . The comment from JW re high revving, has been noted as well.

 

cheers

Edited October 19, 2023 by micklner

[30368]

6 hours ago, micklner said:

I am building a B16 at the moment

 

Yes it looks really good Mick. I built a DJH version a while ago. I found the following useful:

 

Ken Hoole - An Illustrated History of NER Locomotives.

D R Dunne - An Illustrated Appreciation of Raven B16's

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

30368