RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 26, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) I have continued with chassis and re-assembled valve gear - seems to be smooth running with now tight spots. Boiler assembly now soldered to running plate. So next will be fitting wiper pick-ups to the centre wheel set and then running in. Brake gear to add, it is a little more simple than most having a central single pull rod. Boiler has gone together well and fitted running plate with very little fiddling. I am concerned about bogie wheel clearances, I can see that I will have to remove a fair bit of the mainframe to clear those large 3'6" wheels, its either that or run as an 0-6-0 (picture taken before boiler soldered to running plate). Kind regards, Richard B Edited April 26, 2021 by 30368 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 27, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 27, 2021 (edited) Today I finished the boiler off adding splasher covers to the rear driver and boiler fittings. First time I have used printed components they seem fine. I have filed down the dome to match the latter appearance of 61475 but it needs more attention. Starting to look like a B9... Now that I am using a smaller motor and gearbox I have restored the underside of the boiler with a brass insert - you can just see it. Kind regards, Richard B Edited April 27, 2021 by 30368 7 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted April 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 27, 2021 Looking good Richard. You might just want to check that chimney positioning. It looks a bit too far forward at the moment. On the real thing the chimney and snifting valve are tucked up close. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 27, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 27, 2021 1 hour ago, 65179 said: You might just want to check that chimney positioning. Yes Simon, I agree. Thanks for the suggestion, I will move it back. Kind regards, Richard B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 This is really looking good now. The fit of the parts looks very snug, with the firebox nicely up against the cab and running plate. One thing I did notice with interest is something that I think may answer a problem I have with a DJH B16/1 I built years ago. This is the depth of the splashers. As we all know, our wheels in "00" are 2.3mm too close together, and on my B16 if you look in the right place you can see the flange on the drivers behind the splashers! I wonder if making the splashers a tad deeper than protoype is the answer, and that in fact is the case here? And yes, I know I should have chosen EM, if I knew then what I know now I most certainly would have done! John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted April 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 27, 2021 John, Chunky splashers is a real feature of GCR 4-6-0s (and 4-4-2s). It's particularly noticeable on the rebuilt B9s because of the relatively small wheels and slightly higher set boiler. See this shot of Richard and Mike's loco: https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p265322570/h87f25289 Simon 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 27, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 27, 2021 2 hours ago, John Tomlinson said: One thing I did notice with interest is something that I think may answer a problem I have with a DJH B16/1 I built years ago. This is the depth of the splashers. As we all know, our wheels in "00" are 2.3mm too close Hi John, Thanks for the kind comments. Simon has answered your query, I noticed that the splashers were very wide but checking my Yeadon's revealed that many of the GCR 4-6-0s had very wide splashers so I think we are ok. Kind regards, Richard B 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 28, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 28, 2021 (edited) Today was brake gear day for the B9. It went together very well due to the high quality and accuracy of the etches. I need to scratch build and add the vacuum brake cylinder under the cab. The centre driver wiper pick - up has been added too. B9 is getting close to completion. You can see where the brake cylinder needs to be added. Piece of brass tubing probably. Really pleased with the appearance of the brake gear unless someone tells me I have fitted the brake levers upside down! Kind regards, Richard B Edited April 28, 2021 by 30368 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 29, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2021 Have now fitted the vacuum brake cylinder which was, as suggested, a piece of brass tube. Moved on to completing the body, in particular the reversing rod, vacuum ejector pipe and hinged cover over the valves. Brake cylinder fitted. I have to admit to an error (another one!!) the vacuum ejector pipe should have a slight bend close to the specticle plate - will try to remedy. The reverser rod is a little fiddly but goes together fine - prototype pictures help a great deal. Smokebox door is an adapted Craftsman Models casting. Kind regards, Richard B 7 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted April 29, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2021 It's really got the GC 'face' now! How easy will it be to drill the whitemetal smokebox door for the lampiron in situ? Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted April 29, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2021 1 hour ago, 65179 said: How easy will it be to drill the whitemetal smokebox door for the lampiron in situ? Hi Simon, Yes, I agree it does. Many thanks. Probably easier then drilling the boiler and smokebox in situ for the handrail knobs! A sharp drill with a pin vice does the job after marking the spot with a good scriber. Kind regards, Richard B Kind regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted April 29, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2021 52 minutes ago, 30368 said: Probably easier then drilling the boiler and smokebox in situ for the handrail knobs! A sharp drill with a pin vice does the job after marking the spot with a good scriber. I tend to get carried away at this point with builds; leaping forward with the things that make it look like a loco. Drilling a 0.3mm hole for a handrail or lampiron in a cast brass smokebox door already attached to a 2mm scale loco could definitely be characterised as repenting at leisure! Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 1, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 1, 2021 Gardening most of today (before the rain comes, thanks goodness) but managed to fit the buffer beams and start to equip the cab. The chassis has been run in both forward and reverse. The bogie has been dismantled ready for painting and I will do the same with the chassis shortly. Basingstoke turntable - ideal for running in a B9 chassis. Cab needs brass valve handles fitting and painting. The body has not been fitted correctly by me before the picture was taken! Kind regards, Richard B 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 3, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 3, 2021 Bit of a foul day here in Buxton! Detailing the B9 body continues. It runs very well as an 0-6-0 on my Basingstoke layout! One piece handrails can be a bit tricky but I spent time measuring then bending and then checking/correcting the curves. Lastly, the setting sun just shone perfectly on one of my B4 0-4-0's - what charming and powerful little loco's they were. Remember Winchester yard B4s very well, 96 was one of them. Apparantly they ran back to Eastleigh as light loco's for servicing that must have been a sight! Kind regards, Richard B 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted May 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 3, 2021 Hi Richard, Just be careful how you mount your vac pipe. Many GCR locos are unusual in that the vac pipe bag is not secured at the bottom of the vac standpipe so that it hangs vertical. Instead it is secured to a fixing off to the left on the bufferbeam (as viewed from the front). See for example Butler-Henderson here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Butler-Henderson#/media/File%3AButler-Henderson_2_(6928520974).jpg B9s are similar except the fixing is more to the middle of the bufferbeam (top to bottom). Get that relationship right and you should find that the top of the standpipe is more correctly positioned as well. Regards, Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 4, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) 20 hours ago, 65179 said: Just be careful how you mount your vac pipe. Hi Simon, Thanks for this advice. Sadly I have already mounted the vacuum pipe wrongly but will seek to rectify, many thanks. Loco is almost complete now bar centre footsteps and cab roof/handrails. Kind regards, Richard B Edited May 4, 2021 by 30368 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 4, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, 65179 said: Many GCR locos are unusual Simon, Vacuum standpipe re-positioned! Kind regards, Richard B Edited May 4, 2021 by 30368 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 5, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 5, 2021 Well, at last the loco is finished apart from a wee bit of filler and some wet and dry paper to prepare for painting. After painting I will fit the spec plate glazing and then the window surrounds. I have really enjoyed the build and all the helpful comments received and all the really good images of these locomotives. Thanks to Michael Edge for a really good etch of an interesting prototype and for his guidance. Recommended for the fairly skilled modeller, don't mean to sound big headed - I am learning all the time but you do need to scratch build the boiler and firebox (but only once for most people!) which is not for everyone. On to painting and the tender kit also supplied by Michael, again, at a very reasonable price. Last pictures then in the metal. Kind regards, Richard B 11 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Rathbone Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 (edited) The one thing that spoils an excellent build is the over thick boiler bands. A real life boiler band is about 2mm thick which, in 4mm scale, is 0.025 mm (or 1 thou in imperial). If your loco is to have a lined livery, the thickness of the transfer on its own is sufficient. If it is to be unlined then Scotch Magic Tape is the best solution, under a couple of layers of paint it is very stable. I model in 7mm scale and always use either a transfer or tape. This one, built by Steve Duckworth, is 4mm - Ian R Edited May 6, 2021 by Ian Rathbone 3 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 I'm fairly new around here (and several other Railway Modelling forums. I've been a life-long scale modeller (plastic, resin, scratch, aircraft, vehicles) but now my attention has turned to finescale model railways. I have spent a few days on and off going through this thread, and have found it thoroughly enjoyable, very informative, and quite inspirational. It has answered many small question I had about constructing these kits, enabling me to put some into practice. I'll be a regular "watcher" and tag along going forward. Thanks Terry 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 7, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7, 2021 22 hours ago, Ian Rathbone said: The one thing that spoils an excellent build is the over thick boiler bands. Thanks for the praise Ian, much appreciated. The GC 4-6-0 looks absolutely wonderful (Sorry, don't know GCR loco's well enough to recognise - is it a GCR 8C LNER B1/18??) I have admired your work for some time. Yes I must look into an alternative material. Michael Edge pointed this out too. This loco has now been painted plain black as it was in the first year or two of BR so I thought that I could not really use lining transfers. It does not look too bad! Besides, I suspect lining transfers would not be visable if applied before painting. I use 5 and 10 tho sheet for some parts and have started to make strip for boiler bands but the edges are too rough. Needs more work and will try Scotch Tape. Kind regards, Richard B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 7, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7, 2021 10 hours ago, Terry1954 said: I have spent a few days on and off going through this thread, and have found it thoroughly enjoyable, very informative, and quite inspirational. Hi Terry, Thanks so much for your kind comments. If I can encourage you to "have a go" then I will be a very happy man. I have found that our hobby abounds with skilled, experienced and helpful people so go for it. Kind regards, Richard B 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 8, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 8, 2021 Well 61475 is now finished and painted. I may add a little light dusting later but that is all. I don't think she looks too bad. Kind regards, Richard B 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 That looks great Richard, you should be very pleased. John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 8, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 8, 2021 I am John, many thanks for all your positive comments. Kind regards, Richard B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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