Middleton Top and the C&HPR

[JustinDean]

The Gannets have had a coat of grey primer, then red primer followed by black for areas under the hopper. I used Hycote rattle cans for this. 
Some print lines have become apparent. I’m yet to decide how bothered I am about them as these will get covered in dust. 
I also managed to drop one. The print survived thankfully but one of the buffer shanks pinged off…lost to the abyss of Cazz’s kitchen. I haven’t any spares so annoyingly wil have to order more. 

 

 

This thing keeps glaring at me. I’m going to attack it with files tomorrow. If that doesn’t succeed I may resort to a hammer. 
 

 

Jay

[JustinDean]

Success!!!

Followed the advice posted here and filed those bushes to an appropriate length. I now have a functioning chassis. I’m very relieved; I was started to lose the will to live on this one. 
Valve gear, brakes and pick ups next. 
Here’s a photo with the body plonked on. 
 

Jay

 

[mullie]

1 hour ago, JustinDean said:

Success!!!

Followed the advice posted here and filed those bushes to an appropriate length. I now have a functioning chassis. I’m very relieved; I was started to lose the will to live on this one. 
Valve gear, brakes and pick ups next. 
Here’s a photo with the body plonked on. 
 

Jay

 

Glad the hammer wasn't called for, good to see progress.

[JustinDean]

I’ve just remembered @MarcD requested I repost the photos of the Furness brake van. 
Only about 6 weeks late - sorry mate!

 

A pair of HC Casserley photos taken at Hopton:

 

 

 

First one enlarged:

 

 

Finally my 4mm scale version using Marx’s excellent 3D print:

 

 

 

Jay

[MarcD]

Many thanks. The van looks good. I have yet to paint either one of my prototypes

Marc

[JustinDean]

The Gannets are done.

Gibson sprung buffers and Smiths Instanter couplings are fitted. Weathering was achieved using a slight misting of Tamiya earth from underneath followed by Humbrol Smoke, Earth and Black powders applied with a make up brush then sealed with Matt acrylic spray varnish using the techniques @NHY 581 has described on his thread. Transfers came from @cctransuk as prescribed on a previous page on this thread. Disc wheels from 51L to complete. 
For the load I used limestone from Scale Model Scenery. Having investigated a few types and brands this was visually the closest I could find to what I’ve seen in photos. A piece of card was cut to sit snugly into the hopper. Glued to this a a pair of think paper cones to form the heaps followed by a decent coat of PVA and the limestone.  Once set a self adhesive wheel weight was attached to the underside as the wagons were initially very light.

Quite pleased with how these have turned out!

 

Jay

 

 

 

[John Isherwood]

22 minutes ago, JustinDean said:

The Gannets are done.

Gibson sprung buffers and Smiths Instanter couplings are fitted. Weathering was achieved using a slight misting of Tamiya earth from underneath followed by Humbrol Smoke, Earth and Black powders applied with a make up brush then sealed with Matt acrylic spray varnish using the techniques @NHY 581 has described on his thread. Transfers came from @cctransuk as prescribed on a previous page on this thread. Disc wheels from 51L to complete. 
For the load I used limestone from Scale Model Scenery. Having investigated a few types and brands this was visually the closest I could find to what I’ve seen in photos. A piece of card was cut to sit snugly into the hopper. Glued to this a a pair of think paper cones to form the heaps followed by a decent coat of PVA and the limestone.  Once set a self adhesive wheel weight was attached to the underside as the wagons were initially very light.

Quite pleased with how these have turned out!

 

Jay

 

 

 

 

Very nice, indeed.

 

However - it is evident that the transfers have been applied to a matt, or satin surface; the 'ghost' of the carrier film is rather evident, unfortunately.

 

There is a prejudice against waterslide transfers for this very reason, but it need not be so.

 

My transfers contain instructions which will allow the carrier film to become invisible - but there is a strange reluctance in certain quarters to read / follow them.

 

In short, apply the transfers to a HIGH GLOSS surface; seal them with GLOSS varnish; then apply any satin or matt finish that you wish.

 

I can only assume that this process is deemed to be too long - but shortcuts will only lead to disappointing results!

 

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

[JustinDean]

8 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Very nice, indeed.

 

However - it is evident that the transfers have been applied to a matt, or satin surface; the 'ghost' of the carrier film is rather evident, unfortunately.

 

There is a prejudice against waterslide transfers for this very reason, but it need not be so.

 

My transfers contain instructions which will allow the carrier film to become invisible - but there is a strange reluctance in certain quarters to read / follow them.

 

In short, apply the transfers to a HIGH GLOSS surface; seal them with GLOSS varnish; then apply any satin or matt finish that you wish.

 

I can only assume that this process is deemed to be too long - but shortcuts will only lead to disappointing results!

 

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

John, I can only hang my head in shame. Guilty as charged! 
I will be purchasing some high gloss varnish and will endeavour to do better mate. 
 

Jay

[MrWolf]

I never knew about the gloss varnish trick until I got back into modelling a couple of years ago. It's much easier to apply and line up the transfer onto a glossy surface that's for sure.

[John Isherwood]

19 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I never knew about the gloss varnish trick until I got back into modelling a couple of years ago. It's much easier to apply and line up the transfer onto a glossy surface that's for sure.

 

It isn't really a trick.

 

Gloss = microscopically smooth;

 

Matt = microscopically like the Andes mountains.

 

Lay a film of clear carrier film over the latter, and you trap air in all the valleys between the mountains; with gloss, there are no valleys.

 

Air is what causes the 'ghost' behind the carrier film; no air, no 'ghost'!

 

Simples!

 

John Isherwood.

[JustinDean]

Time turn my attention to J94’s….

 

2x DJH, 2x Dapol, 1x Hornby and 1x Mercian models kit.

 

The Hornby model of 68006 has an incorrect bunker and is a shockingly bad runner so went straight back in the box. 
 

Middleton Top saw five J94’s in service over the years:

 

69006 17C 1959

68012 17C 1963 9L 1967

68013 17C 1956-62

68030 17D 1956 17C 1959-61

68079 9L 1965

 

DJH’s 68012 is pretty much there and just requires some details along with center steps.

 

The other DJH and Mercian locos will receive new numbers while the two Dapol locos are going to get some surgery to sort out the terrible mould line/joint along the underside of the tank along with improving the sillouhette of the chassis. 
 

All will get 3 link couplings, smokebox door number/shed code (where appropriate), cab covers made by the local crew, lamps, coal, crew and fire irons. 68006 and 68030 also need additional ladders on the rear of their bunkers. 
 

A lot to go at!

 

Jay

[SteveyDee68]

On 08/10/2023 at 17:48, JustinDean said:

For the load I used limestone from Scale Model Scenery. Having investigated a few types and brands this was visually the closest I could find to what I’ve seen in photos. A piece of card was cut to sit snugly into the hopper. Glued to this a a pair of thin paper cones to form the heaps followed by a decent coat of PVA and the limestone.  Once set a self adhesive wheel weight was attached to the underside as the wagons were initially very light.

Now that is really useful to know, as I will want limestone for the loads for Blackford Wharf in due course, and your research will save me a lot of time (plus expense of getting it wrong) as I trust your judgement with this.

 

Really like the hopper wagons and also the brake van shown earlier. However, any chance of some clearer pictures of the water tenders, please? As you know, I got myself one of those resin castings 3D prints that you commissioned, but it is currently sitting in a drawer of “things to do when I have more of a clue” so anything to push me in the right direction much appreciated!

 

Cheers

 

Steve S

Edited October 22, 2023 by SteveyDee68
Corrected reference to tender body

[johnd]

The bunker top on the Hornby 68006 will come away leaving the smaller bunker, all that then is required is flat surface cutting to size and some coal on it.

Easy 

Edited October 8, 2023 by johnd

[SteveyDee68]

1 hour ago, JustinDean said:

two Dapol locos are going to get some surgery to sort out the terrible mould line/joint along the underside of the tank along with improving the sillouhette of the chassis.

Please promise to show us how you go about these improvements - I have a (very growly) Dapol J94 that I would like to improve.

 

I also have two very nice EFE/Bachmann J94s which I think are the DJH bodies with new Bachmann chassis - I ended up with two identical models because I forgot I picked one up off eBay second hand like-new for a great price, then took advantage of a ROS offer!

 

The other J94 in my possession is a (bargain price) Hornby example in private ownership livery which I intend to keep that way, but which could likewise be “tarted up” so any postings on how you improve your fleet will be most welcome here!

 

Steve S

Edited October 8, 2023 by SteveyDee68

[John Isherwood]

14 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

It isn't really a trick.

 

Gloss = microscopically smooth;

 

Matt = microscopically like the Andes mountains.

 

Lay a film of clear carrier film over the latter, and you trap air in all the valleys between the mountains; with gloss, there are no valleys.

 

Air is what causes the 'ghost' behind the carrier film; no air, no 'ghost'!

 

Simples!

 

John Isherwood.

 

Expanding on this theme; here's a little educational experiment for you.

 

Takes some gloss paint and add a LITTLE talcum powder to it - and STIR very well; you now have satin or matt paint, depending on how much talc you added.

 

The talc is the microscopic range of mountains which scatter light in all directions - thus appearing matt. Gloss is smooth, reflecting light straight back to the eye - thus appearing gloss.

 

John Isherwood.

Edited October 9, 2023 by cctransuk

[MrWolf]

You'll also find that the more matting agent you use, the more subdued the colours become, which helps with creating the illusion that you are not viewing a model, but viewing the real thing from a distance. 

I varnish my paintings with a UV protection varnish that is a 70/30 mix of matt to gloss varnish.

After much experiment I found this to be enough to lift the colours and make the 2d images look less flat, without making everything look glossy and unrealistic. This of course is applicable to the palette of colours and shades I use for my paintings.

 

On the railway, virtually everything is Matt finish, apart from items such as motor vehicles that are highly polished, they get a satin finish to stop them looking toylike, rather than a matt finish that makes them look like they've been parked in a field for a few years.

When I get to that stage, I will experiment as others have (and hopefully achieve something like as good) with putting a light sheen on things like boiler cladding and coach sides, but that would be about my limit!

[RodneyS]

That's interesting Mr Wolf.

 

When Hornby brought out their LSWR coaches a few years back they did the BR versions in a rather matt dark red/maroon colour.  They should have been bright red and a friend did repaint his.

 

Fairly soon after, there was an article in MRJ in which the author had polished the coach sides with a soft mop in a mini drill.  This had an amazing effect.  Not only did the coach look better with a smoother finish but the colour was much brighter.

 

This all rings a bell from 'paint technology' at college many years ago.  Rather dulled by the mists of time.

Rodney

[NHY 581]

10 hours ago, RodneyS said:

That's interesting Mr Wolf.

 

When Hornby brought out their LSWR coaches a few years back they did the BR versions in a rather matt dark red/maroon colour.  They should have been bright red and a friend did repaint his.

 

Fairly soon after, there was an article in MRJ in which the author had polished the coach sides with a soft mop in a mini drill.  This had an amazing effect.  Not only did the coach look better with a smoother finish but the colour was much brighter.

 

This all rings a bell from 'paint technology' at college many years ago.  Rather dulled by the mists of time.

Rodney

 

 

Evening Rodders. 

 

No need for soft mop/drill thing and no need to repaint. A bit of car polish and a few cotton buds will work just as well taking each panel at a time. 

Here's my Hornby Re-built LSWR brake polished and weathered. 

 

 

And this was the Hornby Collett that appeared in BRM. Same treatment. 

 

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JustinDean]

23 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

Now that is really useful to know, as I will want limestone for the loads for Blackford Wharf in due course, and your research will save me a lot of time (plus expense of getting it wrong) as I trust your judgement with this.

 

Really like the hopper wagons and also the brake van shown earlier. However, any chance of some clearer pictures of the water tenders, please? As you know, I got myself one of those resin castings that you commissioned, but it is currently sitting in a drawer of “things to do when I have more of a clue” so anything to push me in the right direction much appreciated!

 

Cheers

 

Steve S

Hi Steve,

 

This is the stuff I’ve used for the limestone loads:

 

 

I’m curious about your tender; mine were 3D prints, not resin casts. Here’s another photo of them on Llanyblod before they were painted and weathered. There was a lot of fettling involved to get them to a reasonable state. The print didn’t allow for correct size wheels so I had to cut slots into the underside to accommodate. Handrails needed to be fitted along with buffers and couplings. I made  brakes from brass strip and plasticard. All of this was made more tricky because the print was really brittle and parts would break off if you just looked at it. 
 

 

 

[SteveyDee68]

11 hours ago, JustinDean said:

Hi Steve,

 

This is the stuff I’ve used for the limestone loads:

 

 

I’m curious about your tender; mine were 3D prints, not resin casts. Here’s another photo of them on Llanyblod before they were painted and weathered. There was a lot of fettling involved to get them to a reasonable state. The print didn’t allow for correct size wheels so I had to cut slots into the underside to accommodate. Handrails needed to be fitted along with buffers and couplings. I made  brakes from brass strip and plasticard. All of this was made more tricky because the print was really brittle and parts would break off if you just looked at it. 
 

 

 

You are quite right - it is a 3D print (but yellowish, like other resin cast items I have!)

 

Steve S

[JustinDean]

Meanwhile…..

I’ve been working at the top of the incline. 
 

DAS clay and a bit of grout/ballast texture:

 

Undergrowth on the embankment along with signal in place:

 

 

and the gradient sign. Lever for the signal still to go in. 
 

[SteveyDee68]

6 hours ago, JustinDean said:

 

 

Good job no locos are expected to traverse that change in gradient!

 

Steve S

[Tortuga]

4 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

Good job no locos are expected to traverse that change in gradient!

 

Steve S

Only when going for maintenance - they were based out of Rowsley until 1963.

Edited October 11, 2023 by Tortuga
Shed

[SteveyDee68]

1 hour ago, Tortuga said:

Only when going for maintenance - they were based out of Rowsley until 1963.

I was talking about the model version, not the prototype!

 

Unless, of course, Justin has plans… 🤭

[JustinDean]

Could be fun to attempt this in model form.