johna Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Hi Can anyone recommend a soldering I should buy. I will only be using it for soldering wire to track and point motors? Thanks Johna Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 12 minutes ago, johna said: Hi Can anyone recommend a soldering I should buy. I will only be using it for soldering wire to track and point motors? Thanks Johna If you look on eBay there are several kits for less than £20. Although I have half a dozen irons plus an RSU one of these cheap and cheerful irons has done most of my kit building for the last two years. When I managed to kill the first one ( forgot to turn it off for lunch and didn't return for some hours) I had no hesitation in replacing it with another. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynJPearson Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I have an Antex CS 18w soldering iron. It's over 30 years old, has had a couple of replacement bits, but has served me well for electronics, track wiring and finger burning. So Antex would certainly get my vote. 1 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I bought a cheap(ish) Chinese gas powered iron on eBay. it overheated and fell apart after less than five hours use. I replaced it with a gas powered Antex which is superb. The joy of gas irons is that there is no lead to get in the way. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mick Bonwick Posted March 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2020 You won't go wrong with this. https://www.rapidonline.com/antex-s58jj70-xsl25w-leadfree-soldering-iron-230v-with-silicone-cable-13a-plug-85-0848 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdr Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 i've had weller, antex and many more brands, but if you're just soldering track and similar jobs get yourself a 60w cheap chinese one with a bag of replaceable bits. There's usually an adjustable one for around £8-£10 or £20 with an electronic base on ebay. I've had these for quite a few years and they do the job well. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted March 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2020 Once you get proficient with soldering wire you'll find other uses for it. I would go for the Antex Mick Bonwick recommended. They are not expensive and it will last you years. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johna Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks everyone for your advice,going to order an Antex. Johna 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 52 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said: You won't go wrong with this. https://www.rapidonline.com/antex-s58jj70-xsl25w-leadfree-soldering-iron-230v-with-silicone-cable-13a-plug-85-0848 I have had a couple of Antex 25 watt irons for 10+ years, excellent. Had to change 1 element only but they both ended up being used a lot I now have an 80 watt solder station as I do much more soldering, over kill for domestic wiring on layouts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Another one recommending Antex. Reliable and you can get spares such as different types of tips for different uses. Jason Edited March 24, 2020 by Steamport Southport Tips rather than bits 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Torper Posted March 24, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) I've got two Antex irons and can't get on with either of them. I've now got a Hakko soldering station which is excellent (as it should be for the price) and overkill for the OP's requirements but I've also had a considerably cheaper Aoyue soldering station which has given me years of excellent service. It has now been retired from workshop duty but remains my layout-room iron. Loads of spares and cheap tips available for Aoyues too. DT Edited March 24, 2020 by Torper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2020 Mine's an Antex and I don't get on with it either, but this may be down to a faulty iron operating mechanism (Johnster) rather than anything to do with Antex. I reckon there's two types of people, those as can solder and those as can't, and no amount of advice, practice, tutorials, or spending money on kit will remove me from the latter type, sadly. I have soldered successfully, but reckon my success rate is about 25% for kitbuilding/modelling, perhaps more for wiring jobs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 When I worked in electronic servicing, we used Antex exclusively. The problem I find with Chinese irons (apart from possible safety issues) is that the bits are rubbish and don't 1.tin and 2. last 5 minutes. To be fair, I have had the same problem with Antex bits, but they may not have been originals? Antex used to do a complete soldering kit for little more than the cost of the iron. In its turn, the iron cost little more than a replacement element which is a pain to replace. The key to successful soldering is clean workpieces, decent solder and a hot iron. Do not move the parts until the solder has cooled. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Like you I learnt the hard way not to abuse the soldering iron tip, as they have a thin plating, this stops the tip from corroding, once breached its a downward hill for the tip Rule 1 tin the tip as soon as you get the iron with solder Rule 2 keep the tip clean (dirty tips reduce heat transference) Rule 3 don't use abrasives on the tip Rule 4 clean the joint prior to soldering and use flux 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Torper Posted March 25, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) I've got loads of Aoyue tips, not because they've failed but because they're cheap and I've got one of most types they do. So far (and I'm talking about a period of several years) none have lost their plating and I've had very little trouble tinning any of them. On the other hand, problems with tinning were the main reason I abandoned Antex irons. There are of course many types of Chinese irons, often clones of Hakko, and I am sure that some are good and some are bad. I think that Aoyue, which has an enormous range of products and has been around for many years, can be included among the better ones. As for success with soldering, my advice would be as follows: 1. Get a reasonably powerful iron, at least 35watts. You may not always need the power, but sometimes you will. 2. Unless you're soldering white metal, use the iron hot. Mine is usually at 425 or 450 degrees Fahrenheit. 3. As others have said, clean the tip after the iron has heated up but before using it. I've used both the damp sponge and the brass coils type tip cleaner. Both work. 4. Clean the joint to be soldered. It's at times like this that the fibreglass brush comes into its own. 5. Apply flux to the joint, even if you are using cored solder. I find Carrs Green and Yellow Lable fluxes to be good. I use a small paint brush to apply it. 6. Types of solder? I find electical cored solder usually works fine though I think that when combined with flux one of the specialist 145 or 180 degree solders perhaps flows slightly better. 7. If at all possible, don't then load the iron with solder and take it to the joint (like I used to do). Instead, cut off a small bit of solder wire and place it on the fluxed joint. Then apply the hot soldering iron to it. You'll find that this is easier, quicker and gives a much neater joint, and it's surprising just how little solder you need. Sometimes, of course, because we haven't been given three hands and/or because the part to be soldered is very small (soldering wire to 4mm rail probably falls into that category), you won't be able to do that and will have to take a loaded iron to the joint. DT Edited March 25, 2020 by Torper 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted March 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2020 On 24/03/2020 at 23:16, Dickon said: I bought a cheap(ish) Chinese gas powered iron on eBay. it overheated and fell apart after less than five hours use. I replaced it with a gas powered Antex which is superb. The joy of gas irons is that there is no lead to get in the way. For occasional use, you can get battery powered ones (3 or 4 AA I think), but they do chew through batteries pretty quickly. But great for soldering a couple of wires, or to replace a battery or supercap on a PCB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Torper Posted March 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2020 From time to time Aldi, and possibly Lidl, include a gas powered iron in their weekly specials. I bought a Workzone gas-powered mini soldering torch set from Aldi and have been very pleased with it although it is fair to say that I don't use it all that often and when I do it's usually for the mini-blowtorch facility rather than the soldering iron, though a number of tips come with the unit. It wasn't expensive and unlike most such devices in its price range came with a 3-year guarantee. DT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 For soldering wires especially under base boards I would steer away from anything with a flame, for wiring only a clean tip on the iron and resin cored solder should be OK Carrs orange label flux is organic and designed for wiring jobs where joints cannot be washed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2020 On 25/03/2020 at 09:08, Il Grifone said: The problem I find with Chinese irons (apart from possible safety issues) is that the bits are rubbish and don't 1.tin and 2. last 5 minutes. To be fair, I have had the same problem with Antex bits, but they may not have been originals? I bought an Antex when I was doing my electronics degree ~35 years ago. I had the same bit on it for years with no problems at all. Probably about 10yrs back I accidentally dropped the iron and bent the tip so had to get a new one.The replacement was totally naf and never tinned properly. I gave up in the end and bought a new iron. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Modern solder is lead-free. Try to avoid this if at all possible.... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 47 minutes ago, Il Grifone said: Modern solder is lead-free. Try to avoid this if at all possible.... Whilst I try and use leaded solder where possible, I think most problems cab be attributed to failing do do a few basic things Preparing the work to be soldered Using the correct flux and solder for the parts being soldered together Keeping the tip clean Using the correct iron and or tip for the job 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 2 minutes ago, hayfield said: Whilst I try and use leaded solder where possible, I think most problems cab be attributed to failing do do a few basic things Preparing the work to be soldered Using the correct flux and solder for the parts being soldered together Keeping the tip clean Using the correct iron and or tip for the job That's the problem. The conditions need to be just right. We noticed an increase in dry joints when manufacturers starting using it. It could be just a coincidence of course.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 I like using Carrs red flux, thought it was the most aggressive being in Red but not so, its organic and fine for non ferrous metals, I use either Carrs green or standard 12% dilution for steel or whitemetal. Just use the correct products for the job in hand 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpendle Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Going back to the OP's question. Lead Free solder is fine for soldering wire to track and electronics work. Regards, John P 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SteveyDee68 Posted May 4, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2020 (edited) I tried soldering for the first time last night, with a Lidl sourced variable temperature (electronic) soldering station... a decent price, and appears to be decent piece of kit. I practiced on a spare bit of track. Two melted sleepers rude words ensued. Then - success! Wire to track, solid bond. Even yanked on it like they do in the Youtube tutorials! Using coreless solder, no flux. After that, no success at all. Multi strand "modellers" wire - couldn't tin it! Eventually managed to tin it. Attach to rail as before? No chance. Cleaned the joint, tried flux, different solder, no joy. Welcome to Frustration City, population - one. Gave up after learning a valuable although patently obvious lesson... Soldering iron tips are ing hot! Ouch. Or words to that effect. Later today I will try again. I don't know if I will fare any better. It seems so simple in theory... STAY SAFE - USE Hornby POWER CLIPS! Edited May 4, 2020 by SteveyDee68 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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