snowy1051 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hello, I've just seen 2 old Tri-ang locos advertised for sale as DCC compatible (but no socket), they are the R251 3F and the R59 3MTT. Is this correct please? Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) If they have the old X04/X03 motor, then they are an easy conversion to DCC (with hard-wiring). These motors do take more power than newer motors, though, so a decoder with a reasonably good output is advisable. I have converted an old Triang Hymek diesel with the original design (pre-ringfield) motor bogies - I fitted two motor bogies and wired a TCS T1 decoder to both in parallel, and it all worked extremely well. Going back to the X04/X03 motor, I would suggest a decoder from the likes of Lenz, ESU or Zimo, as these all also have overload protection built-in (TCS are also good but that's because they have a "goof-proof" warranty, so if you blow their decoder up, they will replace it, regardless of who is at fault). The chassis on your locos will be live, as part of the return current. Some heat-shrink tubing on the brush spring wire will isolate the brushes completely (one will already have an insulating sleeve anyway, but replace it with the heat-shrink too, to make sure it won't move accidentally). Solder the grey and orange decoder wires to the brushes. Solder the red wire to the pickup wire that went to a brass tag that was attached to the originally insulated brush side. Attach the black decoder wire to the chassis - this may be done where the screw holding the spring wire goes through the motor magnet, or it could be done where the motor mounting screw attaches to the chassis. Test on the programming track before allowing full power to reach the decoder. Edited January 11, 2020 by SRman 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 4 hours ago, snowy1051 said: ... R251 3F and the R59 3MTT... Actually the same basic mechanism, as you will see if you purchase. The advice above on fitting is good, it really is that simple. What's not so simple: Old magnets. Loss of field is very common resulting in high current draw for little torque and overheating. Remag services are available and magnet replacements. Accrued wear. Maybe they are unused (hope!) or maybe they have been pounded. If the latter they can be a lost cause; 'worn oval' axle and crankpin holes, 'chewed' gear sets, are far from unknown. Other troubles like worn brush carbons and bearings glued solid with gunk from evaporated oil are simply dealt with. Before even thinking of a DCC fit, test on DC for current draw stalled at 12V, reliable starting and running. DCC cannot fix mechanism defects, and the decoder must have a continuous current rating greater than the stall current. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob hughes60 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) The above advice is good.I have done a few Triang locos and first get it working well under DC. So dismantle clean/replace contacts, then clean commutator, replace brushes if required. I always ditched the old ferrite magnet and replaced with a neomagnet this can be done for X03/X04 as well as ringfield types. When running well on DC I hardwired an appropriate decoder. I used mainly Zimo decoders and sometimes Lenz as both handle short circuits and can sustain the higher current draw of the motors. I have done Britannias, Halls, Hymeks, Jintys etc. Check that the motor cover has its plastic lugs intact so it grips the chassis and holds motor etc firmly in place. You can find replacement motor covers. I have service sheets for X03/X04 and Triang models, as well as the Ringfield motor in its various guises. Looking at these before starting is a good idea. Some Ringfields are easier than others. For example where the brush contacts are bent over are easy, if screw on contacts you need to isolate one of the screws from the motor chassis. Use either a plastic bolt/screw cut to length or a plastic washer. These are readily available if you need to know the supplier. I also replaced any 3 pole armatures with 5 pole armatures but the movement to loco rather than tender drive means these are hard to get hold of. Also you need to sheath the armature spindle to get a 5 pole armature to fit in a 3 pole motor chassis. I used brass tube to do this. Feel free to contact me if you need any other details. Hope this is some use. Edited January 11, 2020 by bob hughes60 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip D Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 I have successfully fitted a DCC chip to a Tri-ang EMU and my Top Link 'Lord Beaverbrook' runs beautifully with a TTS chip in it 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 11, 2020 1 hour ago, bob hughes60 said: I have service sheets for X03/X04 and Triang models, as well as the Ringfield motor in its various guises. Looking at these before starting is a good idea. A large number of service sheets can be found here. Useful if you don't have them. http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_menu.asp 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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