Chris Dark Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 Hi all, im building my first parkside conflat wagon kit but notice the buffers are standard RCH type. I’ve asked on Facebook and have been pointed towards slaters plastikard 71569 Lms van buffers. I can’t see good pictures so was wondering if these are the best or if anyone has other options? Any help is appreciated thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 H7s had RCH buffers as far as I know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 Yes I believe so. I’m trying to track down the most accurate buffers. Both RCH buffers types I’ve seen so far do not match the appearance for conflats Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted December 9, 2019 Share Posted December 9, 2019 I can't see much wrong with the as-supplied buffers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 9, 2019 Author Share Posted December 9, 2019 Thanks for your replies. From the images I’ve seen the buffers don’t have the top ‘fin’ and have a flat area such as the picture below Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted December 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 9, 2019 27 minutes ago, Chris Dark said: Thanks for your replies. From the images I’ve seen the buffers don’t have the top ‘fin’ and have a flat area such as the picture below You're looking at the wrong photos - NEVER trust 'preserved' wagons for authenticity. What you see in that photo are later fittings. There's nothing wrong with the RCH buffers supplied with the kit. Regards, John Isherwood. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 9, 2019 Author Share Posted December 9, 2019 Thanks John. I must get myself some literature for accuracy. As I already have these buffers I can continue my kit. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted December 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 9, 2019 (edited) 10 hours ago, cctransuk said: What you see in that photo are later fittings. Off topic really but any idea what they actually are? Not something I recognise! Edited December 9, 2019 by Hal Nail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted December 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 9, 2019 1 hour ago, Hal Nail said: Off topic really but any idea what they actually are? Not something I recognise! One of the many variant of BR heavy duty buffers, I'd guess. Dowty? Regards, John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Hal Nail said: Off topic really but any idea what they actually are? Not something I recognise! Certainly unusual, and years younger than the wagon. The nearest I can get is on a Rectank, but has an oval head https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/buffers/e14b9ba63 But it is the buffers that were in use when this wagon was a Denflat https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrconflat/e2199fbb8 And this Denflat conversion also has the same buffers. https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrconflat/e272f7d48 Perhaps BR wanted impact to be lessened as the loads of diesel engines would be valuable and perhaps fragile. Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted December 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 10, 2019 10 hours ago, hmrspaul said: The nearest I can get is on a Rectank, but has an oval head https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/buffers/e14b9ba63 My first thought was that they are quite slim and the rectank photo clearly shows that compared to the adjacent wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 I just checked my great big book on GWR wagons. The buffers were RCH on H7 conflats. As for sourcing, Slaters 71565 (lost wax cast brass) or Invertrain (whitemetal). Parkside standard buffer is correct as well, these are plastic. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) Thanks all for the replies and continued discussions. I will keep with the standard parkside buffer as advised above. Would it typically be instanter or screw link coupling fitted to these? The kits comes with vac bags so assume the 3 link is incorrect ? For information I am middling 1940s wartime GWR Edited December 11, 2019 by Chris Dark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 3 hours ago, Chris Dark said: Thanks all for the replies and continued discussions. I will keep with the standard parkside buffer as advised above. Would it typically be instanter or screw link coupling fitted to these? The kits comes with vac bags so assume the 3 link is incorrect ? For information I am middling 1940s wartime GWR As they're fitted, it would almost certainly be Instanter or Screw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 Screw couplings on most H7s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted December 11, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) Irrelevant if you go with screw link but I think you'll find theres an instanter link (in fact 2 - BR style and GWR) on one of the frets in Parkside kits. Edited December 11, 2019 by Hal Nail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 Is anyone familiar with the CPL 0 gauge products? I am wondering if there range of screw couplings work or are fixed? Comming from 00 I’m still getting to grips with the standard 0 gauge manufacturers and what/who does what Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Chris Dark said: Is anyone familiar with the CPL 0 gauge products? I am wondering if there range of screw couplings work or are fixed? Comming from 00 I’m still getting to grips with the standard 0 gauge manufacturers and what/who does what I suspect CPL screw couplings do work (in the sense that you can tighten them up), but, IMO, it is a feature that is rather difficult to use (just getting them hooked on is challenge enough). I believe Slaters can be made to work as well. It depends on how finicky you are - there were detail differences from company to company. My go to screw link is Dapol. I think they are extremely good value. John Edited December 11, 2019 by brossard 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 Me again.... I have been asked upon ordering whether I require heavy or light chain for my conflat shackles. One load will be a container and the other load will be a tractor/farm machinery. Is there a standard approach or does it not really make any difference? I have tried googling but not come up with an answer. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Hi Chris, ISTR using a fairly light chain on the Slaters shackles for the BD container on my Conflat. Re the tractor/farm machinery I'm not sure that it could be loaded on a Conflat - more usually a Lowfit (for end loading) and secured with ropes rather than chains/ shackles. Just a suggestion. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 22, 2019 Author Share Posted December 22, 2019 Thanks again. I might change the title of this thread as a kit walk through lol. I started putting the kit together and read through the instructions, assembly and painting and noticed some areas are to be either different colours such as the buffer casing and buffer beam but also it recommends painting some areas prior to construction due to access once the model is made. On Facebook I was told to always paint the kit once built but the more I think about it the more painting the kit (outside at least) makes sense. Can I hear your views and experiences on this please, the obvious fear is painting once completed and getting accurate and tidy finishes when painting. Also if anyone know any threads which goes through the process of a kit that would be very helpful. thanks again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 I generally leave the bulk of painting until last. I paint the wheels a grungy colour first whenever I build a kit. Buffer heads, couplings usually get chemically blackened. If the buffer shanks are lost wax brass, they get blackened too. I leave off the buffers, couplings and buffer beam vac piping until after painting. If the underframe has a lot of gubbins, it may be easier to paint it in a semi finished condition. Here's my Slaters Conflat: John 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 (edited) I remember Airfix kits being painted on the sprue, then touched up after assembly. Did I imagine it.... My own preference (as I'm slow finishing things) is to get the base coat on quick. It doesn't look too bad then when it gets shunted about.. Edited December 22, 2019 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 (edited) The problem with painting before assembly is that you get paint on the joints unless you are very careful. Glue will not bond to paint so extra work to clean up before assembly. My personal preference is to prime the model and this best done after the bulk of assembly. There is no absolute right or wrong here. Whatever gets the job done to your satisfaction. John Edited December 22, 2019 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 In my mind i'm thinking about just painting the outside/top of the body prior to assembly, leaving the inside clean for me to use the solvent weld to work, using capillary action this should work it's way through providing solid construction. once complete i can then paint the inside and bottom areas which don't need to be as neat anyway. just out of interest, does anyone have any images of correctly painted GWR conflat wagons? following my miss information from google previously i am conscious of not just googling and going with what i find..... I'm probably over thinking things and should just get on with it and give it a go, i just like to be satisfied in my mind i am undertaking the right approach and won't end up disappointed at the end haha. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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