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Class 37, by Accurascale


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On 12/09/2024 at 15:22, Simon63 said:

Re the 2nd run of Class 37’s I have spoken to the support team and they have confirmed the following to my queries. Firstly the Accurascale speakers installed in this batch are the 4 ohm versions and secondly the illuminated headcodes for the four character versions have only leds on the outer characters not the middle ones, hence the uneven illumination unfortunately. This appears to be an oversight on their part as this wasn’t a problem on the four character headcode Deltics. 

@LNERandBR @Bucoops @spamcan61 - this post suggests Accurascale has confirmed all the speakers in run 2 are as run 1, 4 ohm - and thus potentially having similar impedance issues (happy to be corrected if I’ve misinterpreted this). 

Edited by MidlandRed
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37258 arrived this morning from rails, another beauty from the Accurascale team. Finish night shifts Sunday morning so will run her in and have a play… sorry!! test session Sunday afternoon with a couple of beers before the NFL starts at teatime.

 

Now the decision is to leave it as it, or start trawling Flickr and see which others she could possibly be and maybe if a Dutch transrail one is possible.

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8 minutes ago, MidlandRed said:

@LNERandBR @Bucoops @spamcan61 - this post suggests Accurascale has confirmed all the speakers in run 2 are as run 1, 4 ohm - and thus potentially having similar impedance issues (happy to be corrected if I’ve misinterpreted this). 

 

Actually this run should be all 8ohm but there’s always room for human error which is why checking in with support is the ideal solution should you be extremely unlucky and have a cut out issue. (Bear in mind the two versions look pretty identical)

Edited by McC
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Patience has never been my strong point. 😊  I got fed up waiting for a plain blue non cowling 37 so I've used what used to be 37 027 for an easy conversion. It is now re- numbered 37 010 using Railtec ready made numbers sets. The white stripe/numbers etc all rubbed off quite easily using numerous cotton buds dipped in ipa. The headlight has been removed and the small space left over has been filled in and painted over. A coat of Humbrol matt varnish and some weathering using Mig powders and here we are. I'm very happy with the outcome. 20240913_210601.jpg.98bea17aed5526f9d50e7a7efd2e4c68.jpg

Edited by Lowlander
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15 minutes ago, Simon63 said:

McC

I asked the support team if run 2 were 4 ohm speakers and they stated they were. They said the Class 31’s would be all 8 ohm. Can you confirm which is correct please? Are they supposed to be 4 or 8 ohm? 

 

All should be 8 but 4 also works. It’s not a ‘better than the other’ equation but as I said above if you have a cut out issue simply contact support and we will sort it for you. All part of the simple lifetime warranty. 

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10 hours ago, Lowlander said:

Patience has never been my strong point. 😊  I got fed up waiting for a plain blue non cowling 37 so I've used what used to be 37 027 for an easy conversion. It is now re- numbered 37 010 using Railtec ready made numbers sets. The white stripe/numbers etc all rubbed off quite easily using numerous cotton buds dipped in ipa. The headlight has been removed and the small space left over has been filled in and painted over. A coat of Humbrol matt varnish and some weathering using Mig powders and here we are. I'm very happy with the outcome. 20240913_210601.jpg.98bea17aed5526f9d50e7a7efd2e4c68.jpg

 

Very nice! Can I ask what yellow you used when you painted where the headlight was? Or did you mix something close?

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36 minutes ago, Lady_Farkham said:

 

Very nice! Can I ask what yellow you used when you painted where the headlight was? Or did you mix something close?

 

Railmatch pretty 84 yellow is a perfect match. I used it on my model of 37066

 

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2 hours ago, Lady_Farkham said:

 

Very nice! Can I ask what yellow you used when you painted where the headlight was? Or did you mix something close?

Thank You. I use Humbrol Enamal Matt 24 or my other alternative for small patch jobs like this is a Posca Pen Yellow no2, in this instance. It is available on a certain auction site for a couple of pounds. There are a wide variety of colours and sizes that I find useful for detailing  and weathering etc. I finished the job with a light brush over with some mig powders. Hth. 

Edited by Lowlander
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11 hours ago, McC said:

 

All should be 8 but 4 also works. It’s not a ‘better than the other’ equation but as I said above if you have a cut out issue simply contact support and we will sort it for you. All part of the simple lifetime warranty. 

McC,

Two remedies have been discussed so far:

 - turn the volume down on a 4 ohm speaker to reduce the risk of cut out and damage to the amplifier.

- use an 8 ohm speaker which has the same effect as turning down the volume on a 4 ohm.

If you want to maintain the “Accurathrash”, is the solution in the amplifier, not the speaker?

 

Also, we are not being offered a solution to the “rocking” issue. I contacted the support people over a week ago and was promised a detailed instruction for the fix, by the end of that week. Despite repeat contact, I have had nothing. 
Can you please help to speed things up?

In regard to the “rocking” issue, I asked the support a direct question about the cause. I have had no response to that question.

 

Fundamentally, the solutions to both issues go away from the original design of the product. Please confirm that these are based on sound engineering studies and any work you expect customers to undertake will not adversely affect the product or the lifetime guarantee.

 

Bob

 

 

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On 12/09/2024 at 17:06, scissors said:

From memory you remove the whole socket if using the fixed ploughs. Pull down and it'll come out.

 

From my experience, if you remove the coupling mount part of the coupling set up then you have problems with derailing due to the kinematic coupling mechanism not activating with the bogie turning, causing the bogie not to turn. I've had to leave the mount in place, but cut off about 5mm of the socket, so the coupling still works, so it does not foul the back of the ploughs or cause derailing problems when the loco goes around a curve.

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1 hour ago, RBAGE said:

Two remedies have been discussed so far:

 - turn the volume down on a 4 ohm speaker to reduce the risk of cut out and damage to the amplifier.

- use an 8 ohm speaker which has the same effect as turning down the volume on a 4 ohm.

If you want to maintain the “Accurathrash”, is the solution in the amplifier, not the speaker?


Turning the volume down isn't necessarily a 'resolution' to the issue. It could be a troubleshooting step. 
If you are not happy then tell them and they'll help you.
 

1 hour ago, RBAGE said:

Also, we are not being offered a solution to the “rocking” issue. I contacted the support people over a week ago and was promised a detailed instruction for the fix, by the end of that week. Despite repeat contact, I have had nothing. 
Can you please help to speed things up?

In regard to the “rocking” issue, I asked the support a direct question about the cause. I have had no response to that question.


If they don't respond, chase them. Don't go quiet on them or you'll never get your issue fixed. 

Like I say, I work in IT Support and where I work we have a procedure to email customers on a daily basis so do that in reverse. Email AS Support daily asking for an update and they WILL get back to you. 

IMO you should be speaking with Accurascale Support rather than here.

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33 minutes ago, LNERandBR said:


Turning the volume down isn't necessarily a 'resolution' to the issue. It could be a troubleshooting step. 
If you are not happy then tell them and they'll help you.
 


If they don't respond, chase them. Don't go quiet on them or you'll never get your issue fixed. 

Like I say, I work in IT Support and where I work we have a procedure to email customers on a daily basis so do that in reverse. Email AS Support daily asking for an update and they WILL get back to you. 

IMO you should be speaking with Accurascale Support rather than here.

In the absence of a reasonable response from their support team, I advised them that I would share it with this forum to see if anyone here can help with a method that Accurascale might approve. 
Are you really suggesting that Accurascale don’t know what these problems are and I should assist in their “troubleshooting”?

 

My experience has shown that they do not apply the approach to customer culture that your organisation do. That’s unfortunate. I hope they take note.

 

I don’t understand why this forum should not be used to raise issue. You’ll see the same approach in any of the manufacturer topics.

 

i’ll wait for a response from someone who might be able to influence the situation.

 

Thanks for your advice.

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39 minutes ago, LNERandBR said:


Turning the volume down isn't necessarily a 'resolution' to the issue. It could be a troubleshooting step. 
If you are not happy then tell them and they'll help you.
 


If they don't respond, chase them. Don't go quiet on them or you'll never get your issue fixed. 

Like I say, I work in IT Support and where I work we have a procedure to email customers on a daily basis so do that in reverse. Email AS Support daily asking for an update and they WILL get back to you. 

IMO you should be speaking with Accurascale Support rather than here.

 

The number of times I get asked "are you aware of xyz" and the answer is no because users have ranted about it within their department, rather than start a ticket...

 

We do have a whatsapp group though for reporting issues, but sometimes I just can't help myself

 

image.png.a25b0800f692c1fce98a946ef8a56a4d.png

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4 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

Are you really suggesting that Accurascale don’t know what these problems are and I should assist in their “troubleshooting”?

 

No two problems are the same. Just because two locomotives have a 'cutting out' issue doesn't mean both have the same 'resolution'. One could be the speaker, the other could be the decoder for example.


It's impossible for anyone working in support to carry out effective troubleshooting unless the customer interacts with them. Troubleshooting is an integral part of problem solving so yes you should be 'assisting' them as that is the only way your issue will be resolved.

They will suggest resolutions that have worked for other similar problems. However, they may not work for yours.

 

10 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

In the absence of a reasonable response from their support team, I advised them that I would share it with this forum to see if anyone here can help with a method that Accurascale might approve. 


Like I said, case them. Email them daily and your ticket will keep flagging up to them.

If you're not happy with the response then tell them. They'll want you to be happy with the resolution as that is all anyone working in support wants.

Everyone should put themselves in their mindset. They want your issue fixed just as much as you do. They are not the enemy. 😁

 

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5 hours ago, B15nac said:

Here's mine fitted with snowploughs. I believe this is not historical but I like it 

DSC_4809.JPG

I wonder if anyone has a list of the WR Class 37s fitted with snow plough brackets?  As long as nobody has a list you're laughing but I've an ida they might always have been painted yellow for staff safety reasons as they were horrible things to get in your way when going in-between to couple or uncouple. (the  main reason why the centre section often wasn't present). 

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I wonder if run 3 of the Class 37 might feature some BR sector period locos from the Eastern region?

 

Tempted by Dutch 37250 but it’s a Western region loco with no photos of this around York in that livery. 

 

Can hardly believe I’m asking such a question, when not that long ago you’d be happy just to see a loco in the livery regardless of region! 

Edited by richierich
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42 minutes ago, The Stationmaster said:

I wonder if anyone has a list of the WR Class 37s fitted with snow plough brackets?  As long as nobody has a list you're laughing but I've an ida they might always have been painted yellow for staff safety reasons as they were horrible things to get in your way when going in-between to couple or uncouple. (the  main reason why the centre section often wasn't present). 

Mike the snowploughs started off black ( some early blue repaints had black ones), then yellow. The odd one may have been red, did find a lot of red paint on some when fitting a set on a 31.

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Next up on the modelling bench is 37 140 which will become Eastfields 37 144. I've add the extra lamp irons from some old vi-trains sprues. The orange cantrail stripe has been painted out using Precision paints P132 pre 85 blue. I've just ordered the numbers from Railtec. The model will be matt varnished using a Humbrol rattle can then the  weathering can commence. 20240914_171709.jpg.66d8211584c6725f39d5eb24e0ee686c.jpg

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On 13/09/2024 at 21:22, Lowlander said:

Patience has never been my strong point. 😊  I got fed up waiting for a plain blue non cowling 37 so I've used what used to be 37 027 for an easy conversion. It is now re- numbered 37 010 using Railtec ready made numbers sets. The white stripe/numbers etc all rubbed off quite easily using numerous cotton buds dipped in ipa. The headlight has been removed and the small space left over has been filled in and painted over. A coat of Humbrol matt varnish and some weathering using Mig powders and here we are. I'm very happy with the outcome. 20240913_210601.jpg.98bea17aed5526f9d50e7a7efd2e4c68.jpg

Awesome 👍🏻

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1 hour ago, Fredo said:

Hi, I got my Class 37 D6600 a few days ago. I know this loco was still carrying BR Green with a small yellow warning when it had its D prefix removed. Fred

Interestingly it was to become 37 429 in later life. 

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I recently had my Bachmann Class 37, 37558/XH558 set stolen and as they are as rare as hens teeth now and are commanding silly prices, I was wondering if either Accurascale's 37402 or 409 are correct body style etc, and just a simple renumber?  Maybe SRPS 37403 (I already have one on order and maybe order another one if available) might be a good candidate?

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28 minutes ago, TravisM said:

I recently had my Bachmann Class 37, 37558/XH558 set stolen and as they are as rare as hens teeth now and are commanding silly prices, I was wondering if either Accurascale's 37402 or 409 are correct body style etc, and just a simple renumber?  Maybe SRPS 37403 (I already have one on order and maybe order another one if available) might be a good candidate?

 

Contact Bachmann. They had loads (a dozen or so) of the Vulcan sets at their pop-up shop at their Collectors Club event at Swanage Railway last weekend. They were marked as seconds, but they didn't seem to be shifting.

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