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Class 37, by Accurascale


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21 hours ago, Lowlander said:

Hi John

 

If you don't mind me asking? What loco would it be?

 

Stephen 

I took it to be 37 081 - Loch Long. I assume in large logo with the square numbers that were unique to her I believe. Of course I could be completely wrong…

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10 minutes ago, Matt said:

I took it to be 37 081 - Loch Long. I assume in large logo with the square numbers that were unique to her I believe. Of course I could be completely wrong…

That'll teach me to read the full comnent from top to bottom. That's maybe where the clue was 🧐😁

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1 minute ago, Lowlander said:

I suppose I should have read from top to bottom. That's maybe where the clue was 😁

As an aside, when I was a young kid I joined a local model rail club in central Scotland and there was a guy who really went to town on his Lima model of 37081 - I mean he spent hours painting up details to get her as good as possible- painstaking stuff. That want you was it @37081LochLong?  I’m talking early 90s….

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On 14/09/2024 at 17:44, Lowlander said:

Next up on the modelling bench is 37 140 which will become Eastfields 37 144. I've add the extra lamp irons from some old vi-trains sprues. The orange cantrail stripe has been painted out using Precision paints P132 pre 85 blue. I've just ordered the numbers from Railtec. The model will be matt varnished using a Humbrol rattle can then the  weathering can commence. 20240914_171709.jpg.66d8211584c6725f39d5eb24e0ee686c.jpg

 

A now finished 37 144 complete with Eastfield Westie on the side. Transfers by Railtec. 

20240919_195210.jpg

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24 minutes ago, Lowlander said:

 

A now finished 37 144 complete with Eastfield Westie on the side. Transfers by Railtec. 

20240919_195210.jpg

 

Is that bog roll just in front of the loco? Any tomato plants for extra realism? 

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8 minutes ago, Krieghoff said:

Whats wrong with that Man !🤣🤣

 No space, bro ! Prefer a rake of manky engineers wagons like the good old days ! Jumpers for goalposts etc 

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@Matt and @Lowlander

 

Nope lol I have my trusty Lima 081 in large logo to tide me over and a Bachmann done as white stripe but the user pic etc... Is a bit of a red herring.

 

It is mid 80's plain blue and  I painted the real thing, it was unique and I'm a little embarred by it lol 

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Having come hot foot from my bench after converting the Accurascale 37 to P4, I thought I would share my experience and thoughts.

I read somewhere that someone had commented that the bogie side frames don't have to come off; it is my considered opinion that they should, as the chain anchors on both sides will preclude lifting the side frame/baseplate assembly away from the wheels for sufficient clearance to swap out the wheel sets unless you remove those anchors. Seating the base plate is also much more difficult with this approach.

So, onwards.

1. Removal of the body. I did this just in case anything went wrong, got in the way, was likely to get damaged and so on. I was also about to fit a crew, so it seemed like a good idea.

2. Removal of the bogie side frames. Not that hard, really. they just come away to the side, pulled straight off the bogies horizontally, if you see what I mean. Things get a little awkward as they are anchored in four places each side: two main points between the wheels and at each end. Also, the rod between the brake shoes will need to come out at one end or the other.

Simple leverage with a pair of splayed tweezers either side of the inner mounting points loosened everything, and the ends came away as the mid-part separated from the bogie. The brake shoe rods are glued in but will part from the side frame easily with a little persuasion. Cleaning their holes and ends at the end and supergluing them back was pretty easy. You may have to clear the original glue residue from the holes and the ends first.

The side frames are also anchored to the body by the chain. One can set aside the frames to each side of the bogie or remove the chain anchors with a little wiggling and put it all out of harm's way - the chain anchors are glued in and take very little to remove if you are not included to manage the loose frames whereabouts and fit the wheels at the same time! The anchors relocate in a small slot with a spot of superglue at the end of all this.

3. Removal of the base plate. This pops off the six anchor points; four at the side and one each end. You've seen them before, you know what to do. For those that haven't, slip a tip of something pointy under one end and loosen them as they strain to come away in the same manner. I found starting at the inboard end easier.

4. Swap out the wheels. Literally. Take the old ones out put the new ones in. Make sure you bend the pickups outwards to touch the wider gauged wheels, but don't get them trapped outside the wheels when you put in the new set. There's plenty of grease in the gear train, but I scraped off that on the old wheels and added it to the new ones.

5. Replace the bogie base plates, making sure all six catches are 'home'. Start inboard again as that end is hard to secure if you miss it and the others are all secure.

6. Reattach the bogie side frames. The brake shoe rods will test your eyesight and possibly patience, but you got yourself into this so...

7. Replace the bogie safety chain anchors if you removed them.

8. Replace the body, if you have removed it.

9. Place on the track and test, feel smug and then go in search of your favourite reward for being so clever!

Best,
Marcus

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