Class 37, by Accurascale

[jonnyuk]

14 hours ago, meatloaf said:

I just put the decoder in without altering the switches and all the lights work on mine ( prodigy Express 2 )

 

For F18 press shift then 18

F19 shift 19

F20 shift 20 etc

Mine is the v1 version, from I have read it only goes up to 15. If this is the case ill shall be returning the decoder for a refund. It’s not mentioned anywhere that you need a 28 function DCC system, and why put light functions so far down function numbers on a non sound decoder, makes no sense to me.

[SRman]

23 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

Mine is the v1 version, from I have read it only goes up to 15. If this is the case ill shall be returning the decoder for a refund. It’s not mentioned anywhere that you need a 28 function DCC system, and why put light functions so far down function numbers on a non sound decoder, makes no sense to me.

 

Because it brings it into line with the sound functions, especially if you want to run a sound and non-sound locomotive in a consist.

As an example, I now have three of Accurascale's class 92s with sound, and one more with a non-sound LokPilot. Having the tail light off switch on F20, and the brake on F5 on all of the decoders makes the consisting much easier and more consistent.

[meatloaf]

32 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

Mine is the v1 version, from I have read it only goes up to 15. If this is the case ill shall be returning the decoder for a refund. It’s not mentioned anywhere that you need a 28 function DCC system, and why put light functions so far down function numbers on a non sound decoder, makes no sense to me.

For the none sound version it should be possible to remap the functions so you can use the lower numbers. 

[Bucoops]

1 hour ago, jonnyuk said:

Mine is the v1 version, from I have read it only goes up to 15. If this is the case ill shall be returning the decoder for a refund. It’s not mentioned anywhere that you need a 28 function DCC system, and why put light functions so far down function numbers on a non sound decoder, makes no sense to me.

 

How old is the v1? I found a manual dated 2015 that said it goes up to 29 - so if it's older, it's a bit unfair expecting a manufacturer to hobble their products so they work out the box with outdated equipment?

[55020]

1 hour ago, meatloaf said:

For the none sound version it should be possible to remap the functions so you can use the lower numbers. 

 

It is possible.  @jonnyuk if you let me know which functions you would moved and to where I can give you a list of CV changes. 

 

 

Steve

[jonnyuk]

54 minutes ago, 55020 said:

 

It is possible.  @jonnyuk if you let me know which functions you would moved and to where I can give you a list of CV changes. 

 

 

Steve

Thank you Steve, really appreciated, to be honest anything from 0-15, not fussed on the order etc.

[jonnyuk]

1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

 

How old is the v1? I found a manual dated 2015 that said it goes up to 29 - so if it's older, it's a bit unfair expecting a manufacturer to hobble their products so they work out the box with outdated equipment?

It’s not that old, I would hardly call a gauge master prodigy out dated, it’s a budget system , if you can point me to the manual that would be really appreciated 👍

[Bucoops]

23 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

It’s not that old, I would hardly call a gauge master prodigy out dated, it’s a budget system , if you can point me to the manual that would be really appreciated 👍

 

I genuinely don't know how old it is hence asking :)

 

This is the manual I found - hopefully it's your system?

 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/media/downloads/DCC01_new_v1_3_Read-Only_.pdf

 

[Dunmar]

5 hours ago, Glencoe Model Railway said:

Re the flange squeal issue, presumably it’s a firmware update that solves the issue? If so, I should be able to do it myself via my Lokprogrammer? 
 

Cheers

Hi,

As I don't seem to be getting a positive response from Accurascale, well not yet anyway, would appreciate if you could point me in the right direction as I have a couple of mates who have Lokprogrammers.

Bill.

[Glencoe Model Railway]

6 minutes ago, Dunmar said:

Hi,

As I don't seem to be getting a positive response from Accurascale, well not yet anyway, would appreciate if you could point me in the right direction as I have a couple of mates who have Lokprogrammers.

Bill.

Will do Bill. It’ll be Monday before I get a chance as I’m working tomorrow 

 

cheers

Eddie

[Roy Langridge]

5 hours ago, Glencoe Model Railway said:

Re the flange squeal issue, presumably it’s a firmware update that solves the issue? If so, I should be able to do it myself via my Lokprogrammer? 
 

Cheers

Yes, a LokProgrammer will update the firmware and it was my understanding that the issue was with the firmware. Good luck. 
 

Roy

Edited August 26, 2023 by Roy Langridge
Typo

[jonnyuk]

29 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

I genuinely don't know how old it is hence asking :)

 

This is the manual I found - hopefully it's your system?

 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/media/downloads/DCC01_new_v1_3_Read-Only_.pdf

 

That’s the v2 with the shift button bottom right, mine just has f15 there, thank you all the same as any help is always appreciated.

[atom3624]

13 hours ago, 97406 said:

 

They stay perfectly well attached with just the 2 screws at the front. There’s a few in the carpet in my room!

Had some interesting moments fitting the detailing - to one end only, so far.

Plan is to see how much can be fitted to the coupled end, albeit angled if necessary.

Once glued into place they stay OK, but there were a couple which ... erm ... pinged!!

Trying to locate into the holes, some sockets folded back, so I gripped harder, then folded back, then harder again and ... PING!!

My garage isn't the cleanest and tidiest - OK, it's probably one of the worst!

Amazingly I found the jumper cable - orange socket each end, but after I started fitting the 2nd one into the 'missing' place ... all was going well, then the same problem and BIG ping!!  I thought no chance with that one, but at least I found the original!!  Then I found that one!

Moving the locomotive around, to check clearances, I heard a rattle, then felt something fall onto my foot - 'What was that?' I thought - none of the pipes, etc., would have felt like that ...

The glazing had come out of one end!!  How?  Why?  I suppose obvious, not attached adequately but highly unusual!

I've had the body off now - necessary to replace the glazing, which was easy enough.

I've used a touch of 'Glue'n'Glaze' at the top - of both screens in case the other's the same - should clear hence why I used it, but unusual.

Al.

Edited August 27, 2023 by atom3624

[zr2498]

13 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

That’s the v2 with the shift button bottom right, mine just has f15 there, thank you all the same as any help is always appreciated.

This is the one I believe:

It can be viewed on this site

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/20886113/download-view-the-prodigy-express-dcc01-gaugemastercom

 

[meanach]

1 hour ago, atom3624 said:

Had some interesting moments fitting the detailing - to one end only, so far.

Plan is to see how much can be fitted to the coupled end, albeit angled if necessary.

Once glued into place they stay OK, but there were a couple which ... erm ... pinged!!

Trying to locate into the holes, some sockets folded back, so I gripped harder, then folded back, then harder again and ... PING!!

My garage isn't the cleanest and tidiest - OK, it's probably one of the worst!

Amazingly I found the link cable - orange socket each end, but after I started fitting the 2nd one into the 'missing' place ... all was going well, then the same problem and BIG ping!!  I thought no chance with that one, but at least I found the original!!  Then I found that one!

Moving the locomotive around, to check clearances, I heard a rattle, then felt something fall onto my foot - 'What was that?' I thought - none of the pipes, etc., would have felt like that ...

The glazing had come out of one end!!  How?  Why?  I suppose obvious, not attached adequately but highly unusual!

I've had the body off now - necessary to replace the glazing, which was easy enough.

I've used a touch of 'Glue'n'Glaze' at the top - of both screens in case the other's the same - should clear hence why I used it, but unusual.

Al.

Out of the 3 accurascale class 37/0s I bought , 2 of them came with the front glazing adrift. So based on those odds I’d say its

 quite a common thing. 

[McC]

Just now, meanach said:

Out of the 3 accurascale class 37/0s I bought , 2 of them came with the front glazing adrift. So based on those odds I’d say its

 quite a common thing. 

 

Out of interest were they direct or via a retail partner? 

[37081LochLong]

Out of my 6 (all bought direct) 2 have had loose front windows but it's such a simple and quick fix it hasn't bothered me at all

[Dunmar]

5 hours ago, Glencoe Model Railway said:

Will do Bill. It’ll be Monday before I get a chance as I’m working tomorrow 

 

cheers

Eddie

I've waited this long Eddie! A few days days more ain't goin' to matter!

Bill.

[Mad McCann]

3 hours ago, meanach said:

Out of the 3 accurascale class 37/0s I bought , 2 of them came with the front glazing adrift. So based on those odds I’d say its

 quite a common thing. 

 

 

Yes.

 

One of the screens on my 043 was out but it was a very easy job to pop back in to be completely fair.

 

Davy.

[55020]

I always find the safest path to a successful fitting of bufferbeam bits and pieces is the dry run.  Even with the Accurascale bits and bobs I found that the removal of a bit of paint is sometimes necessary.  I never found I had to enlarge the holes, something that is very common with other manufacturers..

[atom3624]

Agreed with the holes, I had my trusty pin driver at the ready.

Loch Lomond happily flooded the track for an hour without incident - all is well.

 

One thing I found on arrival was 2 of the corner stirrups were wobbly, still in place, so knowing these may get gently clobbered I immediately super-glued them in place.

Since fitting the detailing, and the 'coupling permitted' snow plough, I had to mildly adjust the plough to avoid the stirrups, but still move smoothly - it is possible.

All's good and looks miles better with the detailing in place.

 

Al.

[meanach]

5 hours ago, McC said:

 

Out of interest were they direct or via a retail partner? 

Both from (different) retail partners. The one I got direct was so well packaged I think it would have survived a nuclear blast! 

[97406]

Out of my 5, one had a loose headcode box end and that’s it.

[atom3624]

Realised I made 'a convenient mistake'.

I didn't use the QR code link, which probably gives a much better explanation, for fitting the detail, and with the buffer beam removed didn't see how / where to affix 'the corner end', so made a hole in the buffer beam as high possible not to interfere with replacing onto the chassis - then saw the mount point on the body!

It does mean I can remove / replace the body easily without fathing around - the mount pegs within the mouldings are not like those in, say the Hornby 50, which can be removed / replaced many times.

If these jumper cables had a more substantial peg / mount point then removal / replacing could be made easier.

Al.

[westie7]

16 hours ago, meanach said:

Both from (different) retail partners. The one I got direct was so well packaged I think it would have survived a nuclear blast! 

 

I have had loose windscreens, unfortunately with missing wipers too. The retailer has the info for trying to acquire replacement wipers.  This retailer also packages the box to nearly twice the size :D

 

mark