RMweb Premium Albie the plumber Posted July 13 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13 Sales must be slow 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted July 18 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 18 (edited) What would i like to see in a revised version.. 1. the bodyshell fitting properly 2. working head lights 3. sprung buffers 4. brass horns 5. better defined access to the models interior (removing the crank isnt good, neither was gluing the body on) 1,2,3 is imo quite reasonable to ask for on a superdetailed model heading towards 200 notes. Edited July 18 by adb968008 1 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 (edited) I'm thinking the body can fully overcome by removing the middle clips from either side. Not quite sure what they achieve given the screws at one end and the clips at the other. Alternatively removing the latter also and providing some alternative fixing at the cab end. The glued on body was obviously a production error affecting a few models only. For some reason I cannot get a Next 18 decoder to stay in the socket - the blanking plug is fine. Have decided to chop the pcb and and hardwire a Zimo 8 pin Edited July 20 by Butler Henderson 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Completely different loco with Zimo hardwired in place with it now recognised on the programming track. Must have being something wrong with the Next 18 socket. Cut through the PCB between the Next 18 socket and the resistor on the F1 circuit and also removed the speaker case. Double side tape stuck the Zimo to the PCB butted up to the PCB bits on top with its wires at the speaker case end; it fis neatly between the light circuit contact pads. Green wire soldered to the through PCB fitment serving the resistor and insualtion tape cover aded Blue to the contact strip on the other side of the PCB. Only hardwiring issue that needs to be noted if you do not want to play with CV29 is that the red wire from the motor needs to go to the grey decoder wire and the black to orange. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class37418stag Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 Hello if I buy yellow Shunter from model rail and will be running smooth or poor ? Because I like that but they has poor running ? thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieGuyRob Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 (edited) 11 minutes ago, class37418stag said: Hello if I buy yellow Shunter from model rail and will be running smooth or poor ? Because I like that but they has poor running ? thank you Would it not be cheaper from Rails or Kernow? Both have them for £99, where as Model Rail its £135. Edited August 18 by PieGuyRob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class37418stag Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 12 minutes ago, PieGuyRob said: Would it not be cheaper from Rails or Kernow? Both have them for £99, where as Model Rail its £135. Thank you but I want that enlarge. K2406 Heljan Ruston 165DE PWM Diesel - 97 654 - BR Yellow 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 If its does't run well return it. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tim Hall Posted October 10 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10 Well that's annoying. Bought the green industrial one from Rails and it ran beautifully. Got the body off to fit crew figures, reassembled , added vac pipes, lamp brackets, screw couplings as supplied, and now it's completely dead. Body removed again to reveal that it looks like a black wire has snapped at the cab end, or two black wires have become detached. Anyone got any photos of a working DC one with the body off, to show me what it should look like, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted October 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10 (edited) 2 hours ago, Tim Hall said: Well that's annoying. Bought the green industrial one from Rails and it ran beautifully. Got the body off to fit crew figures, reassembled , added vac pipes, lamp brackets, screw couplings as supplied, and now it's completely dead. Body removed again to reveal that it looks like a black wire has snapped at the cab end, or two black wires have become detached. Anyone got any photos of a working DC one with the body off, to show me what it should look like, please? I’m just starting trialling DCC on some of my stock. Mine waggles a little bit but not excessively. For this and their 02 shunter I’ve used a Dapol Imperium2 Next18 6 function decoder. They both work really well, good control and slow reliable running, genuine plug and play with an NCE powercab. Edited October 10 by PMP Spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tim Hall Posted October 11 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 11 On 10/10/2024 at 16:16, PMP said: I’m just starting trialling DCC on some of my stock. Mine waggles a little bit but not excessively. For this and their 02 shunter I’ve used a Dapol Imperium2 Next18 6 function decoder. They both work really well, good control and slow reliable running, genuine plug and play with an NCE powercab. Thanks, looks like one of those black wires has snapped on mine, that'll be a nightmare to fix as I don't solder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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