daifly Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 John Is this the link? https://www.facebook.com/BritishModelRailwayMontreal/videos/508460853702174/ Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Ha, yes it is. I assume I can't link because I'm not a FB member. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, brossard said: Ha, yes it is. I assume I can't link because I'm not a FB member. John Neither am I. Link from the video, not from the page. Dave Edited July 4, 2021 by daifly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Ah well, I did try a couple of different ways. No matter, the link is there now. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) It has been too long,so I took some layout pics today. A major task was to raise the ground level to sleeper height. I used foam and some leftover cork sheet. J50 and J39 can be seen. The Heljan Gresleys are also in view. I just finished putting people in them and adding lighting. Looking towards the end of the layout. This needs a lot of development. Cattle dock from Skytrex. Wagons are Parkside kits. Nice long view of the layout. A major new addition is the platform. This is based on the Scalescenes kit. Structure is 3.5mm foam board. Tarmac and edging are printed onto self adhesive labels. Note the trap points (or is it catch?, I can never remember), these work and are interlocked with the turnout at the far end. I think every operator of the layout has been caught out by these. John Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Looks nice John Will you get another Hattons Gresley brake end so you have a 3 car set? Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 3 hours ago, pwr said: Looks nice John Will you get another Hattons Gresley brake end so you have a 3 car set? Paul R Thanks Paul. I will stick with 2 coach sets since that is the comfortable limit for the platform. Passenger stock is de rigueur of course but not all that interesting. I already have a pair of Lionheart Mk1s. My friend has a B set and autocoach so plenty of coaches to be going on with I think. Oh yes, I am also building a rake of pre group NBR 4 and 6 wheelers for another friend. You hit it on the head, I'm going for "nice", not necessarily super realistic as far as buildings go. Lots of interesting videos, mostly 00, on the Facebook link. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 (edited) I wanted to show this new airbrush just received today: A friend brought his round for show and tell a couple of weeks ago. It is innovative in that it it is hand held and the compressor and battery are the component at the left. I immediately saw the usefulness because it eliminates the need to lug the usual heavy compressor around if you need to airbrush outside the paint shop. I am anticipating track painting in the not too distant future and this should be ideal. There are two different paint containers with lids. Battery life is about 1 hour. I haven't tried it yet. You can get it here: https://www.neatandhandy.com/collections/hobby/products/premium-airbrush-for-hobbies-crafts John Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 20, 2021 Author Share Posted August 20, 2021 (edited) I actually have something to report today, I've been busy on other things. One niggling thing I have been wrestling with is the poor performance of the straight through roads of my single slip. Locos and stock ran roughly through the slip and often derailed. I thought I might have to lift it to adjust some of the rails. However, I took a look at the Peco 00 single slip (there is no SS for 0 gauge), blowing it up to 0 gauge and noticed a detail that I had previously missed: On the lower curved rail is a shallow V, my version is brass strip, that helps to direct wheels through the crossing. I added brass strip in a few other places to tighten the flangeways slightly. I have been testing and so far, every loco and piece of stock that I have tried has successfully negotiated the slip. Note that I filled the holes with plastic card to stop wheels falling in. Quite happy with this outcome and a load off my mind. John Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 The lads came round yesterday and after tea and biccies, we adjourned to the railway room. We gave a number of trains a good run and even ran a milk train (two tanks, GP van and 6 wheeled brake) into the dairy through the slip. That all went extremely well. Throughout the session there were no derailments, apart from when I went through a catch point the wrong way We came away happily exhausted. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Excellent stuff John. I should be picking up a couple of 5ft(ish) boards next week. At long last I will be making my own small layout. I intend to build my own track so I am taking inspiration and pointers (or is it points) from your work. Reading your last entry I had to permit myself a chuckle. In your July entry you highlighted the existence of the catch/trap/whatever point, then ran through it recently. I mean really. You can't get the staff you know. Still, hands up anyone who hasn't done that. Not many I don't suppose. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Glad to hear you are having a go at making your own track. A major impetus for me was the price of Peco. On other threads I have been lectured on my reluctance to use Templot, I suppose I really should give it a try. The presence of trap points does force you to be careful, or it should. However, in this case I was the driver, my buddy was in charge of route setting. I'm not alone, there's a quite famous video of someone going a trap point on a real railway - as you say, you can't get the staff. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 John, Back in 2013 the Stanier Mogul got off the rails all wheels on the GCR. See here. At least on our 7mm railways we only suffer blushes. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Ian Major said: John, Back in 2013 the Stanier Mogul got off the rails all wheels on the GCR. See here. At least on our 7mm railways we only suffer blushes. Ian. Yes, that is the event I was thinking of. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share Posted August 26, 2021 (edited) Last week I decided to get on with weathering some stock. BR 20T brake van. This is the Dapol model but I got the grey version because of a mixup. I obviously repainted the model and also modified it for through piping. The underside does have the brake rigging. This is the Parkside exGWR Horse Box. A very good kit and built for a friend. I took pains to try to get the DCIII brake rigging as correct as possible. Kirk 52' Gresley BG. Again I spent a ton of time trying to get the underframe details correct. The Kemilway manuals were extremely helpful. John Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 How are you getting on with that airbrush - it looks a good buy? Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share Posted August 26, 2021 1 hour ago, pwr said: How are you getting on with that airbrush - it looks a good buy? Paul R I used the new airbrush on the above vehicles Paul. It works very well I think. The only thing I found was it gets out of breath when you hold the trigger down for a long time. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted August 27, 2021 Share Posted August 27, 2021 Thank you good to know. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 (edited) I can finally call my Cl20 done (I hope): When I was sploshing black enamel wash on it, the wash wicked behind the headcode glazing. This ruined the paper panel. I redid the panels, both ends, using Powerpoint. Font is Gill Sans Nova and size is 28. John Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PJ10 Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 Hi john, How did you replace the paper panel? My glazing appears to be stuck solid. PJ10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted August 27, 2021 Share Posted August 27, 2021 Nice. I don't have a 20 nor did I really hanker after having one even though they worked in East Anglia in the early diesel days. Class 15 is more my style! Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nsl714 Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 That's some nicely done weathering John. I know we've talked about airbrushes elsewhere, and that little hand held guy seems to be just the right thing to try out. Thanks for the recommendation. The paper headcode panels on the 20 are also very nice. Excel/Word/Powerpoint can quite handy for headcodes and destination signs. -Zach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 29 minutes ago, PJ10 said: Hi john, How did you replace the paper panel? My glazing appears to be stuck solid. PJ10 The glazing panels are a devil to get out. Scratches are inevitable, for me anyway. A coat of Kleer (my bottle goes back to prehistoric times, not sure they even make it anymore) tends to cover the scratches some. A very fine blade like an Xacto can be forced into the crack and the glazing prised out. This will break the tip of the blade. All very annoying. I hope I don't have to do that again. 32 minutes ago, pwr said: Nice. I don't have a 20 nor did I really hanker after having one even though they worked in East Anglia in the early diesel days. Class 15 is more my style! Paul R I have the LLC Cl15 Paul. Haven't had it out for while, I should give it a run. I think my diesel fleet is fine with the 15 and 20, not to mention the 08. I like the early diesels and have my eye on the Minerva Cl14. The loco population on my layout is majority steam. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 31 minutes ago, nsl714 said: That's some nicely done weathering John. I know we've talked about airbrushes elsewhere, and that little hand held guy seems to be just the right thing to try out. Thanks for the recommendation. The paper headcode panels on the 20 are also very nice. Excel/Word/Powerpoint can quite handy for headcodes and destination signs. -Zach Thanks Zach. It does what it says on the tin. My friend has one and has used it for 4mm stock. He didn't notice the breathlessness. 0 gauge stock has a lot of real estate to cover. I should mention I put masking tape behind the panel to stiffen it and diffuse the light a bit. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PJ10 Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 3 minutes ago, brossard said: The glazing panels are a devil to get out. Scratches are inevitable, for me anyway. A coat of Kleer (my bottle goes back to prehistoric times, not sure they even make it anymore) tends to cover the scratches some. A very fine blade like an Xacto can be forced into the crack and the glazing prised out. This will break the tip of the blade. All very annoying. I hope I don't have to do that again. Thanks John, I initially tried and gave up after making a couple of scratches on the glazing. At least I know I'm not missing some obvious way to remove them and that they do come out. PJ10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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