Michael Edge's workbench

[Fair Oak Junction]

That is going to look fantastic when finished 👍

[Michael Edge]

It's a long time since the last one but we've been away for most of the last two months but this is the latest test track photo. 

Left to right, the Barry 0-8-2T is still waiting its turn in the paint shop, J10 is one of Barry O's in for repair, Fowler 2-6-2T just back from Dave Studley. 7mm EE/HL hasn't moved, the 7mm 01 out for inspiration while I build another one for a customer. In front a scratchbuilt Caledonian tender. Stanier 2-6-2T and Hecate also just back from Dave Studley for lining (better photos of these later) and back at work on a Fowler 150hp for the kit display - this one will be finished as ED7. B17 hasn't moved and the G5 is still waiting to be converted to P4.

[Michael Edge]

Some better photos now, Dave Studley's superb lining and lettering on my (rattlecan) paint.

Hecate this time in its original SR condition, the other one I built had a replacement LBSC boiler.

 

40127 was a long time Brunswick resident, I have a Cotswold one as well but that has a domed boiler.

Another Bread Van for Brunswick. Both these now waiting for glazing, coaling, DG couplings and weight  - before they go to Barry O for weathering.

[St Enodoc]

8 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

glazing, coaling, DG couplings and weight  - before they go to Barry O for weathering

Glazing before weathering?

[Barry O]

7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Glazing before weathering?

Yep.. it means you can "clean" the windows .. justblikecthecreal thing..

 

Baz

[Michael Edge]

7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Glazing before weathering?

That's what we usually do - don't forget the weathering isn't paint, it does come off where you need it to.

[St Enodoc]

28 minutes ago, Barry O said:

Yep.. it means you can "clean" the windows .. justblikecthecreal thing..

 

Baz

 

26 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

That's what we usually do - don't forget the weathering isn't paint, it does come off where you need it to.

Ah, makes sense - thanks.

[Michael Edge]

I've just finished this 7mm 01.

This is finished as one of the Holyhead breakwater locos with the strange combination of ancient BR black livery, wasp stripes and Tops number. The overhead warning flashes were a bit superfluous as well - hard to know where to put these as they moved around the loco from photo to photo, even ended up both on the RH side as the casing doors were swapped about.

I had intended to do a blow by blow description of this job but didn't get past the first photo.

Here it is anyway, it does show some useful details. This is the frame plates completed with axle bearings and swinging arms for the trailing axle. The arms pass around the bearing for the jackshaft axles and a strap of scrap etch is soldered near the trailing axle to keep the arms against the frame plates. The wheels are Slater's with the etched overlays added, these incorporate the balance weights and look very effective when painted.

[Ian Smeeton]

A thing of real beauty.

 

I am bout to tackle one of your 06's (in 2mm).

 

Regards

 

Ian

[New Haven Neil]

Out of the chaos arises - slowly - and with a lot of assembly hints from Mike himself, Harton No. 10 in 7mm.

 

 

Pleased with how this is looking, given I have some dexterity issues and it has been 35 years since I built a brass loco. And that was pants!  This is a nice kit, very happy with the etches.  Not sure about building the pantograph, a task to be mulled over at great length I suspect!

[Michael Edge]

That's looking good, pantograph is a bit fiddly but not too difficult in 7mm.

[St Enodoc]

6 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

That's looking good, pantograph is a bit fiddly but not too difficult in 7mm.

Haven't started the Faiveleys for my AL1 yet. No rush - it's only about 40 years since I was supposed to build it for Hartford Junction...

[Jack P]

A quick question for you Mike; You use Gibson wheels with Romford/Markits crankpins, is it as simple as drilling out the crankpin holes to the right size to then screw in the slightly larger crankpin base?

[Michael Edge]

Drill the crankpin holes 1.4mm and tap 10BA for plain Romford crankpins. Some of the smaller Gibson wheels don't have a boss big enough to do this in which case I press in a short length of 1mm wire.

[18131r]

On 14/08/2024 at 07:35, Michael Edge said:

Drill the crankpin holes 1.4mm and tap 10BA for plain Romford crankpins. Some of the smaller Gibson wheels don't have a boss big enough to do this in which case I press in a short length of 1mm wire.

Hello Mike

 

May I ask; By plain crankpins do you mean those using the soldered on washers to retain the rods, if so is it a quick in and out with the soldering iron to secure the washers before the plastic wheel centre melts?

 

Thank you

 

Richard

 

 

[Michael Edge]

Yes but I don’t use the Romford washers, they are too big for crankpin fasteners (although very useful as spacing washes behind con rods), I use short slices of 1mm I D tube and yes the technique is in and out quick with a hot iron. Delay and you will start to soften the plastic centres.

[18131r]

13 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Yes but I don’t use the Romford washers, they are too big for crankpin fasteners (although very useful as spacing washes behind con rods), I use short slices of 1mm I D tube and yes the technique is in and out quick with a hot iron. Delay and you will start to soften the plastic centres.

Mike

 

Thank you, I do like the idea of using the tube.

 

Richard

 

 

[Michael Edge]

Latest job ready for the paintshop.

Another S1/1 from our etches, this one will be 69902 - the only one to keep its Robinson style chimney.

 

[Captain Kernow]

Mike - when you have tapped the Gibson wheel for 10BA, can you still screw in and unscrew the crankpin easily, as you would with (say) a Markits wheel, please?

 

[Michael Edge]

Yes but I always secure them with Loctite 270 - and I do that with Romford/Markits wheels as well.