Rob R Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Scott, I use the transclucent resin because I reckon it is nearly all resin rather than a resin/grey filler mix which, to me, seems to take the sharpness off a little bit. I think we could do with some 9' 6" brake gear in the society stores...... Looking forward to seeing the finished article. Rob 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 On 06/05/2024 at 11:07, ScottW said: I've been very quiet for sometime now due to a loss of Mojo. Recently I aquired a wondeful 3D printed wagon body for a GNR 9 Ton, 4 Plank, open wagon. This came from @Rob R of this parish and I'm hoping this will help me on my road to recovery. The body is produced from a translucent resin and the print very sharp. For me, with my limited experience in these matters, this has to be one of the best 3D prints I've seen and do question wether 3D printing is the way forward 🤔. There is no floor with the body but this is easily produced from a piece of 40thou Plasticard, suitably scibed to represent floor planks. Society Springy Beam W-Irons have been added, which is now my 'go to' method of suspension when building wagons. Now on to the brake gear.... I agree with you Scott that Rob's wagons are among the best 3D prints and designs I have seen. Even being able to see through the catches is amazing and the crispness of the print is excellent. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 On 06/05/2024 at 11:07, ScottW said: I've been very quiet for sometime now due to a loss of Mojo. Recently I aquired a wondeful 3D printed wagon body for a GNR 9 Ton, 4 Plank, open wagon. This came from @Rob R of this parish and I'm hoping this will help me on my road to recovery. The body is produced from a translucent resin and the print very sharp. For me, with my limited experience in these matters, this has to be one of the best 3D prints I've seen and do question wether 3D printing is the way forward 🤔. There is no floor with the body but this is easily produced from a piece of 40thou Plasticard, suitably scibed to represent floor planks. Society Springy Beam W-Irons have been added, which is now my 'go to' method of suspension when building wagons. Now on to the brake gear.... I hope you get your mojo back soon Scott and if this wagon does the trick then great! I agree that Rob's GNR wagons are among the very best 3D design and prints. The crispness and ability to see through the catches is brilliant. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 This engine is not new.....built it a while ago. But the wheels are. Rewheeled with the new Stainless Steel tyres from China and my own axle system. 11 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 It looks really good, as it always did, but the wheels look great too. Very interested to hear more about the new axle system. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 (edited) On 06/05/2024 at 11:07, ScottW said: I've been very quiet for sometime now due to a loss of Mojo. Recently I aquired a wondeful 3D printed wagon body for a GNR 9 Ton, 4 Plank, open wagon. This came from @Rob R of this parish and I'm hoping this will help me on my road to recovery. The body is produced from a translucent resin and the print very sharp. For me, with my limited experience in these matters, this has to be one of the best 3D prints I've seen and do question wether 3D printing is the way forward 🤔. There is no floor with the body but this is easily produced from a piece of 40thou Plasticard, suitably scibed to represent floor planks. Society Springy Beam W-Irons have been added, which is now my 'go to' method of suspension when building wagons. Now on to the brake gear.... A bit of progress with the brake gear: A number of these wagons were fitted with a hand brake operating on one wheel on both sides, connected by a cross bar and both operating handles at the same end. I have tried to represent this type of brake gear using components from Ambis Engineering. To say it was a bit fiddley would be an understatement. The V Hangers were cut from waste etch material as the ones supplied by Ambis didn't quite look right. Edited May 14 by ScottW 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 Scott the Brake Gear may be fidley but it looks really good. I looked at the Ambis website.....do they do special order for S or is it part of their range? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 9 hours ago, Timber said: Scott the Brake Gear may be fidley but it looks really good. I looked at the Ambis website.....do they do special order for S or is it part of their range? I don’t really know much about the etches. I assume they were a special order years ago, shot down from their 7mm range. I originally bought some many moons ago from the society stores. More recently I bought three sets of underframe & brake etches off eBay, the seller was a dealer who couldn’t shift them so I made him an offer and got them at a knocked down price. It might be worth contacting Ambis and ask if they still have the artwork. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 There's also the brake gear etch which accompanied the underframe for the PO wagon kit which was modified by some members to fit other underframes. I remember a separate etch being done of the brake gear in my time in Parts and there could still be some etches remaining. If not, PPD should still have the photo tool and David Provan might remember the details to order another run of the etch. The reason for the re-run of the brake gear was that the gear was designed to fit around AGW wagon wheels which were undersize. When the Slaters wheels appeared on the scene they were to scale diameter and the brake gear etch needed a fair bit of fiddling to fit around them, so Dave re-did the artwork to fit the Slaters wheels. Jim. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 6 hours ago, flubrush said: There's also the brake gear etch which accompanied the underframe for the PO wagon kit which was modified by some members to fit other underframes. I remember a separate etch being done of the brake gear in my time in Parts and there could still be some etches remaining. If not, PPD should still have the photo tool and David Provan might remember the details to order another run of the etch. The reason for the re-run of the brake gear was that the gear was designed to fit around AGW wagon wheels which were undersize. When the Slaters wheels appeared on the scene they were to scale diameter and the brake gear etch needed a fair bit of fiddling to fit around them, so Dave re-did the artwork to fit the Slaters wheels. Jim. I have in the past done exactly as Jim suggests and adapted the separate brake gear etch designed for the POW wagon kit. This worked out well as the etch is well thought out and very simple to put together. Because the GNR wagon had a single brake on either side of the wagon I didn’t think there would be much left of the society etch after I had adapted it, which is why I chose to use the Ambis components. Personally, I think both the Ambis & separate POW brake gear etch's would be a good thing to keep stocked as they give the wagon builder options. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 In a couple of weeks time I will post some pictures of the different Wagon Brake etches we have.....that will help inform any actions i need to take on resupply......working on wheels at the moment...just trying to do one thing at a time but wagon etches will be next. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 (edited) Making progress on the Layout....I now have a loop of Templot plug track including three turnouts and a catch point. I need to finish the passing loop and siding then elevate the track so that I can model the cuttings etc. Track is currently lose held in place with Peco 4mm Bullhead rail joiners which whilst a tight fit will hold the society rail very firmly. Really grateful to Martin Wynne and the wider Templot community for helping me get this far. It has been a very enjoyable journey and i have learnt a lot. Plug track is superb and just right for our Scale. Now that I have something working I am going to document the build of the layout on RMWeb in either Railways of Wales or Pre Grouping - it will help increase awareness of S Scale to a wider community plus help with some prototype information that I will need. Edited June 7 by Timber 9 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium steverabone Posted June 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 10 Superb work here Timber. I'll look forward to watching progress. What about a film of your loco running slowly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 (edited) Steve - thank you - I am going to have to make adjustments to most of my engines to smoothly navigate the 55 inch radius...basically i have learnt the hard way that I have made my engine frames too wide - close to prototype dimensions but when you add the plunger pickups they are tight on this radius - particularly with my 0-6-0 engines where the connecting rods are also complaining - so they need a bit of oompth to get them round. So it is one step at a time to get to where I want to be.... But as and when I will post again.....lots to do but I am just relieved that I have smooth transition across all my turnouts - these took alot of printing....I really enjoyed making the track but it has taken me nearly a year (probably a few weeks if I started again now) so looking at my engine frames is going to be a nice distraction. Edited June 11 by Timber 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 1 hour ago, Timber said: Steve - thank you - I am going to have to make adjustments to most of my engines to smoothly navigate the 55 inch radius...basically i have learnt the hard way that I have made my engine frames too wide - close to prototype dimensions but when you add the plunger pickups they are tight on this radius - particularly with my 0-6-0 engines where the connecting rods are also complaining - so they need a bit of oompth to get them round. So it is one step at a time to get to where I want to be.... Michael, Does the Templot plug track system have any provision for gauge widening? I've sort of followed the development of the system over the past year or so on the Templot forum but I can't remember any discussion about widening. For your 55" radius curves I would have expected to add a measure of gauge widening, probably close to the 0.012" maximum. Jim. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Hi Jim - yes gauge widening is all in place made easier as my layout main line is a constant radius - it is max as you indicated...I have double checked with one of your new gauges. All of the check rails are then adjusted accordingly. The track as is near as can be to proto standards - I just need to build up from here and adjust accordingly. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Really great Michael, looking forward to seeing more updates as they come. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 I'm cracking on with Broomebridge Junction. Just finished a single outside slip which I have built using a Templot design done for me by Simon Dunkley. I've used Peco Code 75 FB rail, Society wooden sleeper strip with copper-clad in the critical places. There just needs to be a bit of fettling/adjustment, tiebars, cleaning up and sleeper staining/painting before I can install it on the layout. Its taken me a while and was although complex in places has been very enjoyable. Incidentally I used Araldite Control to glue the abraded rail to the wooden sleepers, using weights during curing. It seems pretty strong and is the same approach used by Trevor Nunn on Trowland as described in the December 2015 Gazette No 43/6 "Getting the bottom flat". I don't know if there have been any problems with the glued track Rob? 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 (edited) On 14/05/2024 at 16:28, ScottW said: A bit of progress with the brake gear: A number of these wagons were fitted with a hand brake operating on one wheel on both sides, connected by a cross bar and both operating handles at the same end. I have tried to represent this type of brake gear using components from Ambis Engineering. To say it was a bit fiddley would be an understatement. The V Hangers were cut from waste etch material as the ones supplied by Ambis didn't quite look right. It's been slow going but I'm getting there. Brake gear is all finished. The brake levers, guides and safety loops were supplied on the Ambis etches. Ambis provide a number of different brake levers on their etch but none of them matched the GNR brake lever. I ended up chosing two levers that best matched the GNR type, straightend them out using a pair of pliers, and re-bent them to the required shape. To finish off, buffers, axleboxes and springs were fitted. These were all 3D printed with the drawings kindly being provided by Mike Trice. The axleboxes and springs are designed as one piece, so that I could accomodate the movement of the rocking W irons I made some small cuts in the prints to sepaerate the springs from their mounting plates. So, the next step will be to add some lead weight to the underside of the floor and off to the paint shop it will go. Edited July 21 by ScottW 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 Feels like 3D printing is such a game-changer for S-Scale! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottW Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 7 hours ago, Lacathedrale said: Feels like 3D printing is such a game-changer for S-Scale! When I saw the quality of this wagon body I'm thinking 3D printing is definately the way forward. But for me, who hasn't used 3D CAD or done any 3D printing, it seems a very large mountain to climb. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 On 21/07/2024 at 19:52, ScottW said: When I saw the quality of this wagon body I'm thinking 3D printing is definately the way forward. But for me, who hasn't used 3D CAD or done any 3D printing, it seems a very large mountain to climb. Each individual has to take their own position about this stuff, but the ROI for CAD and 3D printing is so massively greater in proportion to the time or effort required to gain a baseline of skills, my personal opinion is that it's a complete no brainer. There is so much out there that you may never need to do any CAD yourself, and buying a simple filament printer can yield so much - even if not for the railway itself, all the ancilliary things you'd end up paying for like wire clips, socket panels, jigs and fixtures, building carcasses, mounting brackets, etc. Happy to offer some suggestions on getting started, but otherwise I'll keep schtum :) 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob R Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 Scott, The GNR open was drawn with TinkerCad, it's designed for kids so it wasn't too much of a struggle. It has it's limitations but for simple wagonry it is good enough. Millions of tutorials on the web/youtube and it is free. PM me if you need any more info etc Rob 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob R Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 On 16/06/2024 at 14:24, Rosedale said: I'm cracking on with Broomebridge Junction. Just finished a single outside slip which I have built using a Templot design done for me by Simon Dunkley. I've used Peco Code 75 FB rail, Society wooden sleeper strip with copper-clad in the critical places. There just needs to be a bit of fettling/adjustment, tiebars, cleaning up and sleeper staining/painting before I can install it on the layout. Its taken me a while and was although complex in places has been very enjoyable. Incidentally I used Araldite Control to glue the abraded rail to the wooden sleepers, using weights during curing. It seems pretty strong and is the same approach used by Trevor Nunn on Trowland as described in the December 2015 Gazette No 43/6 "Getting the bottom flat". I don't know if there have been any problems with the glued track Rob? Sorry, have just noticed your question re "Glued track on Trowland". Trowlands track is solid, no issues at all. Rob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 (edited) I have been trying to help a fellow member with some Irish Broad Gauge Coaches Edited August 11 by Timber 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now