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2 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Same engine, same transmission, same suspension/brakes as a Q3 of similar age, though I think the Audi could be had with the petrol V6 and flappy paddles.

 

John

Indeed it is almost the same as an Audi Q3......great car, we had one for three perfect years, but it ain’t an “Audi Quattro”

 

That is a completely different car.....;)

BD633B81-A27E-425C-A42A-7104984AEA50.jpeg.d75d9cf83bdfc80224afad189b47ca54.jpeg

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3 hours ago, boxbrownie said:

Indeed it is almost the same as an Audi Q3......great car, we had one for three perfect years, but it ain’t an “Audi Quattro”

 

That is a completely different car.....;)

BD633B81-A27E-425C-A42A-7104984AEA50.jpeg.d75d9cf83bdfc80224afad189b47ca54.jpeg

Agreed, and it was a lovely motor. I had a ride in one back in the day, though the owner wisely wouldn't let me behind the wheel.

 

However, the road version "only" put out 27 bhp more than my car, from a larger, turbocharged petrol motor, which demonstrates just how much things have moved on since the 1980s. It's a safe bet the S1 wouldn't return a tank-by-tank average of 45 mpg either.:angel:

 

John

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2 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Agreed, and it was a lovely motor. I had a ride in one back in the day, though the owner wisely wouldn't let me behind the wheel.

 

However, the road version "only" put out 27 bhp more than my car, from a larger, turbocharged petrol motor, which demonstrates just how much things have moved on since the 1980s. It's a safe bet the S1 wouldn't return a tank-by-tank average of 45 mpg either.:angel:

 

John

They have moved on incredibly, we had an original Quattro in for competitor evaluation back in 1979.....it felt like a lightening bolt compared to its contemporaries, I remember going up the on ramp from the A12 to the M25 and it shot up like nothing else I’d driven before except maybe the occasional Italian exotic.

 

As you say only rated at 197 hp as I recall but the engine on a dyno produced close to 220 hp......the much larger inter cooler used made a big difference, we swear they down rated the “official” power just to make the vehicle feel more than it was, it worked! :lol:

 

It gave us the ammunition with the bosses to push forward with the RS range, we needed something to chase it.......

Edited by boxbrownie
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1 hour ago, boxbrownie said:

They have moved on incredibly, we had an original Quattro in for competitor evaluation back in 1979.....it felt like a lightening bolt compared to its contemporaries, I remember going up the on ramp from the A12 to the M25 and it shot up like nothing else I’d driven before except maybe the occasional Italian exotic.

 

As you say only rated at 197 hp as I recall but the engine on a dyno produced close to 220 hp......the much larger inter cooler used made a big difference, we swear they down rated the “official” power just to make the vehicle feel more than it was, it worked! :lol:

 

It gave us the ammunition with the bosses to push forward with the RS range, we needed something to chase it.......

Yes, and the standard level on most engines is still way below what can be obtained using relatively mundane hardware. A pal of my brother's has a Passat Tdi that's been remapped to give an extra 50 bhp with no other mods (yet), but he's investigating an intercooler made for Fraulein Schmitz's favourite turbo diesel vans.    

 

One of the mechanics at a local   garage has seriously got-at his twenty-year-old Peugeot 306 Turbo diesel (1865cc) with two turbos, bigger injection system off the aforementioned VW van and lord knows what else, plus a huge intercooler off a Mercedes. That's been measured to over 200bhp at the wheels. 

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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Had the final bill for the work I had done on the cooper S, glad I was sat down when he read it out, £1300, the car only cost me £1100 but I’m hoping it’s now in tip top condition!

 

Should get the dyno run result later and go and collect it tomorrow 

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14 minutes ago, big jim said:

Had the final bill for the work I had done on the cooper S, glad I was sat down when he read it out, £1300, the car only cost me £1100 but I’m hoping it’s now in tip top condition!

 

Should get the dyno run result later and go and collect it tomorrow 


Now you know why it only cost you £1100 ;)

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Yeah I suppose so, thing Is I could have paid £2500 for one and had the same issues! 
 

£120 of the bill was for a new tyre for the courtesy car after I hit a pothole and punctured it, I’m going to claim that back from the council 

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27 minutes ago, big jim said:

Yeah I suppose so, thing Is I could have paid £2500 for one and had the same issues! 
 

£120 of the bill was for a new tyre for the courtesy car after I hit a pothole and punctured it, I’m going to claim that back from the council 

Hope you got a few piccies of the pothole, also take a look on “Fix my street” site, very handy for tracking delinquent council repairs, and helping with claims.

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Yeah got pics of it, it was more of a gouge where trucks have come round a bend and dug into the road, council have the details of the incident, they filled it the next day!

 

Right at the bottom of this hill/bend

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Also, Had a call back from the garage and the car is done and putting out 210bhp at The wheels, almost 50bhp over standard (about the same as a cooper works model) 

 

 

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Picked the car up today, 210 bhp up from 168 bhp and boy does it feel so much better with all the other little issues addressed as well as the planned work

 

it pulls in all gears now, there used to be a flat spot when you began accelerating caused by, I think the silicone boots on the inter cooler not being air tight, that has gone and it feels smooth, also a vacuum pipe has been replaced between the rocker and manifold which has most likely helped too

 

the heating is brilliant so the new heater matrix (and radiator) has done the job

 

stopped off and got a couple of replacement tyres too, part worn run flats so I now have run flats all round (the old front tyres had began to crack between the treads)

 

Couple of other small bits and bobs to do at the (cheaper) local mechanic, engine mount and cv boot and it’s all sorted 


duno run result 

DB4015CF-1B02-4010-8FBB-4D59B2601A81.jpg

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On 29/10/2019 at 18:32, Chris M said:

I have never ever found a pre common rail diesel good to drive. Even the Peugeot diesels, which were supposedly the best, had an extremely narrow power band. As soon as they started to get some oomph you ran out of revs. The first common rail diesel I ever drove was a Rover 600 with am L series diesel. At the time it was a revelation.

Six months ago I would have strongly agreed that I prefer diesel to petrol but I changed to a petrol with a large turbo earlier this year and now this is easily my preference. 

 

 

I have a non commonrail Diesel. But EUI instead.

 

Sounds lovely and really grunty, with a remap as quick as the 4.0 V8

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On 29/10/2019 at 19:02, russ p said:

The L series is an absolute gem, they were developing a 16v version of it to replace the BMW unit in the 75. This engine did actually see the light of day in a Chevrolet would like to see how one performed in my ZT

The L series in my ZR is actually a better engine than the massive BMW unit in the ZT.

I also have a  a perkins prima in my van which the L series is based on , I love that engine it's so noisy one of the defining sounds of late 80s Britain as they were in sherpa  too.

When it's cold started reminds me of a DMU engine,  fantastic starter mind

 

I prefer the version with EUI and 5 cylinders.

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On 31/10/2019 at 12:26, big jim said:

Yeah I suppose so, thing Is I could have paid £2500 for one and had the same issues! 
 

£120 of the bill was for a new tyre for the courtesy car after I hit a pothole and punctured it, I’m going to claim that back from the council 

 

Best of luck with that Jim - I got nowhere a few years ago when pothole damage to my Alfa resulted in a bill for £2500 for a complete new front subframe and associated suspension parts, my local council didn't want to know.

 

The only positive thing about the experience was having an Abarth 595 Competizione as a courtesy car whilst the Alfa was away being repaired!

Edited by Rugd1022
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A while back I managed to get Chelmsford council to stump up for a new tyre and alloy wheel for our KA, massive pothole literally grew overnight after a RTA caused the country lane to be used by diverted trucks, they chew a hole in the tarmac on a slight bend I hit it late at night it was full of rainwater, I think the pictures I provided of about a dozen wheel covers laying on the grass next to the road helped them. 

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got a new bigger intercooler on the cooper, this one has an air diverter plate fitted which sits snug under the bonnet to channel the air direct to the intercooler

 

40FAB542-D49D-41C6-8EE7-4B1BC8A30F45.jpg

 

also fitted a bigger scoop, need to wrap or paint it black but it will do in white for now!

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next up a k+n apollo cold air induction kit to replace the one i made up using ebay bits and a universal ramair filter, they cost £450 new but i picked one up off ebay last night for £99, ive got some nice metal polish and k+n filter cleaner so ill get it looking and performing like new before i put it on 


Took it to the car wash too!

edited-image.jpg

Edited by big jim
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After wanting one for ages, I went and actually had a look at an XJS the other day... I know, I know, ...does anyone have any experience of them? A 1995 4.0 Celebration, on at £7900 so neither a cheap bucket nor top spec restoration, seemed decent for its age although I was looking in the dark (I'd look in the day and get a mechanic to check it over before I bought it of course!), apart from the carpets in the drivers footwell were soaked. Got the usual "Just washed it" excuse - though frankly, not sure why they try that, if washing it did that, what would it be like at 70 in the rain?! Just wondering of anyone has any experience of them and of the potential causes, I'm suspecting the seals around the door but have at the back of my mind it could be the heater matrix...

Everything else seemed to work ok, all the electrics did what they were supposed to, passenger door handle a bit stiff, but it drove and stopped well. Any other thoughts...?

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My local Garage Owner had one for some years; he'd have a regular stream of various classics thru' the garage so was well versed in such matters.  I understand that the jag took regular maintenance (and some) to keep it running correctly.  I'd suggest tread carefully, do lots of homework and if still committed then get  someone who really knows XJS and what to look for.  For every problem you spot there'll no doubt be plenty you don't.

HTH

Brian.

 

p.s. Google "xjs+what to look for" as a starter for ten.....

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If it were heater matrix you should know by the smell of the coolant which has soaked the carpet, if it just feels wet but doesn’t smell like a baked ferret it most likely is a leaky windscreen seal, presumably it’s not a cabriolet?  If it is the answers obvious :D

 

Another possibility is if the plenum chamber drains are blocked by leaves/detritus and leaking past the heater unit seals.

Edited by boxbrownie
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Thanks, I did Google it (which as you say @polybear just reveals longer lists of problems!). It did seem pretty looked after, no major body or running gear issues, no unusual noises, it was just the damp that put me off... The plenum chamber drains sound like a common one from what I was reading. And nope, it definitely had a proper roof, David, I checked that!

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ive put the k+n on the cooper as well as fitting a double din headunit, easier said than done as it only has a hole for a standard size stereo, had to set to it with a razor saw and drop the heating and switch controls down but it went in nice and easy as the h/u has a shallow depth single din rear!

 

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898AE055-B161-4AF3-BAAB-D586AB90C44E.jpg

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That looks a mammoth task fitting that radio. I got an Android radio which apparently was fitted to the Chinese MG7 which is virtually identical to the ZT and apart from some wiring for a reversing camera was a very easy fit.  I've also fitted MG7  heater controls 

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took me a few hours, the main thing was checking and double checking before cutting, its quite simple as you just cut the bottom of the front of the dash off in one piece, fit the retaining brackets and screw the heater controls to it, the hole was about 3mm to tall for the double din cage so i elongated the top holes to push the bracket up and secured it in place with the top bolts and 2 extra a bit futher down to prevent it rattling loose futher down the line, the car wiring loom cables were a case of moving them to suit and as its such a small unit on the rear all the extra bits needed such as BMW to ISO connector, dab aerial, rca leads etc all fitted in lovely behind and below

 

ive got to slide it out tomorrow to swap round an rca lead to the sub other than that its done, i may get a black marker on the bracket to disguise where you can see it a bit behind the silver tubes   

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