RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) Index S E Finecast LBSCR D1 build: RTR bench; Welcome all, This should in theory probably be a blog but I don't like the dictatorial style and so prefer to have this as a thread where people can chip in and take it off at a tangent for as long as they wish. I noticed some others have done the same here so I hope that is ok. In going through my collection after many years of storage I've realised I have many projects - in common with most - that are 'restoration' jobs and that I can't hope to find time to do them all. There are also other projects I would like to take on that aren't even in the queue yet. I hope to use this thread to show some of the restorations and projects I am working on but also get some more information on the origins of projects that have come out of various junk boxes over the years. There might also be the 'beyond Barry' condition wrecks that are currently in deep storage but parts from which might help someone out, but that is for the future. For this first post i will start with a loco I can remember nothing about but would like to restore at some point. It seems to have been red and I have paint stripped it possibly...? From the wheels it is K's but it runs and seems far too detailed to be a K's kit. Beyond that i can't say any more about it. anyone recognise it? Edited November 4, 2023 by SR71 Adding link 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 9, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2019 (edited) This morning I've been progressing something from the scrap box. I'm trying to get some industrial stock together for a layout. This is intended to be a wagon for use on tight curves to pull steel sections/finished products in and out of a fabrication shop and built on site for use in and around the yard not for going any distances. It was a HO flat wagon originally but it now has most of the detail removed, ratio bogies, and a replacement deck. It needs to sit a little higher (the bogies are just resting underneath in the pictures). What i can't decide on is the draw bar arrangement. Buffers on the end in the normal fashion won't work with tight curves so I could use dumb buffers but I had a thought to a fabricated draw bar attached to the bogie so that center to buffer it's about the same as a 16 toner. Stopped while I ponder... Edited March 9, 2019 by SR71 Duplicate photo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted March 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2019 Something like these? Taken at Scunthorpe, 8/16 Regards Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 9, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2019 They look impressively close to what I'm producing although I've not knowingly seen those before They appear to use buckeyes? That would be a good solution but I'm doing stream era mid to late 60's so general use (and to match my existing) I'm limited to 3 links sadly. Still useful reference for rusty/in production steel there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 On 02/03/2019 at 11:53, SR71 said: Welcome all, This should in theory probably be a blog but I don't like the dictatorial style and so prefer to have this as a thread where people can chip in and take it off at a tangent for as long as they wish. I noticed some others have done the same here so I hope that is ok. In going through my collection after many years of storage I've realised I have many projects - in common with most - that are 'restoration' jobs and that I can't hope to find time to do them all. There are also other projects I would like to take on that aren't even in the queue yet. I hope to use this thread to show some of the restorations and projects I am working on but also get some more information on the origins of projects that have come out of various junk boxes over the years. There might also be the 'beyond Barry' condition wrecks that are currently in deep storage but parts from which might help someone out, but that is for the future. For this first post i will start with a loco I can remember nothing about but would like to restore at some point. It seems to have been red and I have paint stripped it possibly...? From the wheels it is K's but it runs and seems far too detailed to be a K's kit. Beyond that i can't say any more about it. anyone recognise it? Definitely a detailed K's Kit. I have several. One of their poorer kits IMO, but worth bearing in mind it was first made in 1962 and nobody has ever made a better kit to replace it. http://mre-mag.com/loco_results.php Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted March 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2019 I believe quite a few steam era ironstone and steelworks railways did use knuckle couplers? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2019 Or maybe link and pin couplers. From a distance they would resemble small tension lock couplers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 11, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 11, 2019 Corby/Nile, Pictures of this I can recall seeing were the 3ft systems but no reason it wasn't on std gauge too. Sadly for me I'm committed to 3 link but I have a hair brained scheme to use the ratio plate bogies rather than the diamond frame... It'll either look really good or Tri-ang does industrial! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 11, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 11, 2019 On 09/03/2019 at 16:41, Steamport Southport said: Definitely a detailed K's Kit. I have several. One of their poorer kits IMO, but worth bearing in mind it was first made in 1962 and nobody has ever made a better kit to replace it. http://mre-mag.com/loco_results.php Jason Interesting. Do yours have the tube plate and blast pipe in the smoke box too? They are cast white metal so I'm assuming it's not scratch super detailing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 24, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2019 So I managed to do a bit more on the steel wagon today. I'm using some plate bogies to make a home built Trestrol type arrangement. Essentially shop manager has said I want one of those, boss has said we aren't paying that much, so the fab shop came up with this from what was available. At the moment just the plate shape is cut out. They now need to be to be final fitted (each bogie side molding is slightly different I just realised!) glued, profiled in, and steel flanges/reinforcement to be added in. All four being made together; Split apart to test fit on each bogie side; Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 On 09/03/2019 at 16:41, Steamport Southport said: Definitely a detailed K's Kit. I have several. One of their poorer kits IMO, but worth bearing in mind it was first made in 1962 and nobody has ever made a better kit to replace it. http://mre-mag.com/loco_results.php Jason Not sure about that - K's did a 57xx, but the small wheels suggest that this is a Cotswold 16xx which I think did have opening smokebox door and all the features shown here. A pretty good kit, far, far better than the K's 57xx. The Cotswold kit is now available from SE Finecast. Adam 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted March 24, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2019 2 hours ago, Adam said: Not sure about that - K's did a 57xx, but the small wheels suggest that this is a Cotswold 16xx which I think did have opening smokebox door and all the features shown here. A pretty good kit, far, far better than the K's 57xx. The Cotswold kit is now available from SE Finecast. Adam I think you could be on to something. Looked on eBay and this looks just like what I have https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sutherland-Models-BR-WR-16xx-Class-Tank-Loco-Kit-Wheels-Anchoridge-Motor/202607115710?hash=item2f2c533dbe:g:UB0AAOSwS3NccuBD Definitely worth saving then, though I'll have to decide whether to try and fix up the chassis or googling for the above link suggests that branchlines did one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 8 hours ago, SR71 said: I think you could be on to something. Looked on eBay and this looks just like what I have https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sutherland-Models-BR-WR-16xx-Class-Tank-Loco-Kit-Wheels-Anchoridge-Motor/202607115710?hash=item2f2c533dbe:g:UB0AAOSwS3NccuBD Definitely worth saving then, though I'll have to decide whether to try and fix up the chassis or googling for the above link suggests that branchlines did one? Branchlines (and SE Finecast) do the chassis for it - it'll be the same chassis since the recommissioning of the moulds was a joint enterprise.. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted November 1, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2019 Ok so the clocks have gone back and it's time to fire up the work bench again. If you saw my questions at the beginning of the year it won't come as a surprise that I'm returning with a build of a Wills Finecast LBSCR D1. I know it's now traditional to do an unboxing video or something... I have always done kit buckaroo with any new build as soon as opening it. It promptly fell apart after taking that picture. Tonight I've soldered up the boiler barrel. Pretty pleased with it as a first bit of soldering white metal after 6 years and then that was only some 0-16.5 skip wagons. With the weather forecast this weekend I hopefully will get a bit more done too. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted November 2, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 2, 2019 Well the poor weather today has some upsides, I've made more progress. Typical for a white metal kit nothing is quite square so figuring out how to make sure the tanks ended up parallel took some thinking about. in the end I took inspiration from the real thing, jack and pack with sleepers! Tanks, assembled and cab front on... The next part to go on is probably the smoke box front but the casting, while good, is necessarily too thick. If the weather continues tomorrow I'll have a go at making one in brass. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Can I make a suggestion, Southeastern Finecast have revised this kit, certainly they now supply an etched chassis which includes brake gear etc. Usually with the revised kits there are some additional detail parts normally including cab details. If you send a stamped large self addressed envelope to Southeastern Finecast, Dave will supply a parts list detailing what parts are available and their cost. well worth the effort 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted November 2, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 2, 2019 @hayfield You can! I was aware predominantly of the chassis updates but a backhead would be very handy! I was holding off getting the etch chassis as I didn't know if the kit would be beyond my skill level and it came with a part built white metal chassis. I will send off an SAE but to save me having to re-work later does anyone reading know what the update for this kit contains? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 The etched chassis kits can fall between being very easy to build, or quite hard. With the D1 being an 0-4-2 with no outside valve gear, plus is a 4 coupled chassis I think it should fall into the group of easy to build chassis. Simple things like the Comet LS16 00 frame assembly jigs and London Road Models Hornblock alignment axles (just as good for fitting bearings as hornblocks). or spending a bit more on a Poppys chassis jig. They normally are of the slot and tab construction which makes building a bit easier and tend to also have screwed frame spacers which allows slight adjustment prior to soldering up, should be on the easier side and far superior to cast chassis 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted November 3, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2019 Well only light rain today so not much done at the bench but I did manage to knock up a... pipe? It's characteristic of the Terriers etc, but I can't figure out what it's purpose is. Anyway, its proximity to the handrails had been troubling me but it looks like they will now fit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mclong Posted November 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2019 That is vacuum ejector pipe, fitted in SR days when vacuum train braking was required. Connect to vacuum brake valve in cab. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 8, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2019 A month on time for an update. I've spent time since the last post mostly fettling the castings for the front end. Chimney and smoke box front went on a few weeks ago and as of today I have splashers and sandboxes. I've also now received a backhead and misc castings along with an etch chassis from SEF which should keep me going through Christmas. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 9, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 9, 2019 Well I have made some progress with the smoke box front. I was intending to sweat the brass to the main body but instead I'm soldering all the bits to it then will glue to the body I think. Currently just the smoke box door is attached. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 15, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2019 (edited) Another update. The rain and wind is good for something. If you start reading anywhere on this kit you soon come across mention that the bunker is too long as the same part doubles up for the E1 kit. I thought I could live with this but once something has been pointed out you keep noticing it in each reference photo you look at. Shortening it was a job I didn't want to do so I surprised myself this morning by deciding I'd take it on. Below follow some photos of the modification. Measuring up from photos I'd worked out I needed to loose 2.5mm - around 9" in real life! i used masking tape to make marking out easier. The camera makes the lines blurrier than appeared to the eye. The line on the right is a reference line using a square and then the other two are my cut lines. The two sides were clamped together so they could be cut together. This would have worked well but I didn't plan the clamp position properly and it ended up blocking the saw on the second cut. First cut complete on both pieces. Sawing through the second time and you can see where the saw clashed with the vice. The result. The upper pair aren't too bad because I spotted what was happening but with the lower pair you can see where I wandered off... Edited December 15, 2019 by SR71 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 15, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2019 It seems I've reached the max number of pictures for today. Part 2 will follow here... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 16, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 16, 2019 Part 2... So after cutting the sides up I needed to rejoin them; I've set the better side up for soldering. Important to note here is that the vice isn't clamping anything. I've set it so the jaws are parallel and the correct distance apart to match the total length I want for the finished part. The back of the square is ensuring the parts are level across the top and it's all sat on glass to keep it flat. This is a blessing in that it makes small adjustments in position easy but also a pain because, conversely, any slight movement and the bits can skate off! I've applied a blob of solder to tack the parts so I can take them out and measure alighnment/squareness. Following the checks I've applied more solder to the front then turned it over to solder the back. You can see where some of the solder has spilled through from the front. When i did the second side I used this more by letting solder spill from the back to the front. It worked particularly well on the coal rails. Here I've flooded the back but not had enough heat for it to flow fully yet. Having finished the back and smoothed off the front there is still a dip where the solder has sagged into the joint. So I flooded the front - a bit too much to be honest but I wanted it done in one and it's not as much as the photo makes it look. And having completed both then smoothed them down i was left with this. I've had several goes at the coal rails since, it's a tedious job but they look better each time. Now i could just gloss over that wonky cut in the last post. But yes it was more of a problem to join! Same process but took a bit longer. I got there in the end! The poor conductivity of white metal really works in your favor here. I'm not one to blow my own trumpet but I'm really pleased with the results I managed to get. I'm still learning how to do this myself, and don't claim to be an expert, but if I can help anyone benefit for my learning please feel free to ask questions. Next is making up the rear cab, which I thought was a simple job until I gathered all the bits in one place. I think there are more than in the whole front!... maybe I'll shorten the footplate instead. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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