Accurascale Class 55 Deltic - 4mm scale

[philg]

1 hour ago, Wolf27 said:

If I understand you correctly, operating both high and low tone horns isnt possible on the real thing so I’m not sure why you would do this with the model?

Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I’d like a SINGLE function button to sound high THEN low horn. Not both together. To do this now I have to hit two function buttons in sequence, and there’s always a lag between my WuThrittle/JMRI/RasPi/Lenz and finally the loco

[metadyneman]

On 28/07/2022 at 10:25, adb968008 said:

Wow that image looks powerful.

any-chance a slight wider shot, the background looks very well fitting.

Unfortunately the original shot (which had more background) was deleted when I cropped this shot. I do have this photo though which was taken as the train was actually moving and from a different angle.

[G-BOAF]

5 hours ago, metadyneman said:

Unfortunately the original shot (which had more background) was deleted when I cropped this shot. I do have this photo though which was taken as the train was actually moving and from a different angle.

 

There was a wonderful 'how its done' article in Model Rail in about 2010/2011 ish which had a detailed Hornby Castle large size on the front cover. The cover picture was 3-4 images photoshopped together, each image at a different focal length. 

This shot needs a similar technique. The tension lock coupler and the blurry Mk2 are the biggest give aways (on first glance) that it is a model.

I'm finding this a lot with models of the past 10 years or so; the camera focus is the biggest limitation to getting a good picture, not the model itself!

[97406]

7 minutes ago, G-BOAF said:

 

There was a wonderful 'how its done' article in Model Rail in about 2010/2011 ish which had a detailed Hornby Castle large size on the front cover. The cover picture was 3-4 images photoshopped together, each image at a different focal length. 

This shot needs a similar technique. The tension lock coupler and the blurry Mk2 are the biggest give aways (on first glance) that it is a model.

I'm finding this a lot with models of the past 10 years or so; the camera focus is the biggest limitation to getting a good picture, not the model itself!

 

Fortunately, my camera has aperture priority mode and goes down to F13.6 so I can get a good depth of field on my pictures. However, this needs a longer exposure, so it tends to rule out getting nice snaps of moving stock, and a tripod is also required. I keep thinking about getting a DSLR and the I can use an even smaller aperture,

[what_the_wasabi]

On 27/07/2022 at 15:54, DIRTY DIESEL said:

I’ve emailed AS about the voltage on my NCE Smart Booster (PU) which is 13.8V DC and their answer was….

 

Voltage perhaps a little low, but should still be ok (ESU's tend to like towards 16V).

Thank you for mentioning this, I had no luck with the stay alive even after contacting AS support.  I've just changed the track voltage from 12v up to 15v and now the stay alive works great!

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

1 hour ago, what_the_wasabi said:

Thank you for mentioning this, I had no luck with the stay alive even after contacting AS support.  I've just changed the track voltage from 12v up to 15v and now the stay alive works great!

When all the knowlege is pooled here its a great asset to all,we all have differing strengths

if only Westminster worked as this does at times.

[MikeParkin65]

On 27/07/2022 at 16:57, MikeParkin65 said:

Thanks for the reply Stu - Sound like I have the same set up as you - I've got the 5 amp booster thing for the layout and a separate programming track with the basic set up. Good idea testing the stay alive on the separate programming track - I'll try that (tonight depending on attic temperature!). My main layout runs at 15v nearest the connection to the booster dropping to 14.8 at the furthest point distant. I did read via a google search that NCE set ups can be unpredicatable with stay alives.

 

My neighbour is much more electronics savvy than me and has a homebuilt MERG(?) set up so it looks like a Deltic will be going on loan for trials on the Southern........

 

I'll report back anything useful :)

 

16 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

When all the knowlege is pooled here its a great asset to all,we all have differing strengths

if only Westminster worked as this does at times.

Happy to report that with the PowerCab set up to supply a single track with full power the stay alive on both of my Deltics (one with the revised CV's the other with the CV's altered as suggested) works. I didnt time it but I believe the on with the modified CV's ran for slightly longer when lifted from the track than the standard as supplied.

 

So no fault from Accurascale and it looks like I need to upgrade my DCC system :)

 

Agree with @ERIC ALLTORQUE - this forum is a great practical community for resolving issues like this. So for the afternoon do I stay in the model room with 2 Deltics running at full throttle or nip down the road to the GWSR to experience 55019 at their gala on one engine at a max speed of 25mph? Reckon I'm staying in! 😎

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

4 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

 

Happy to report that with the PowerCab set up to supply a single track with full power the stay alive on both of my Deltics (one with the revised CV's the other with the CV's altered as suggested) works. I didnt time it but I believe the on with the modified CV's ran for slightly longer when lifted from the track than the standard as supplied.

 

So no fault from Accurascale and it looks like I need to upgrade my DCC system :)

 

Agree with @ERIC ALLTORQUE - this forum is a great practical community for resolving issues like this. So for the afternoon do I stay in the model room with 2 Deltics running at full throttle or nip down the road to the GWSR to experience 55019 at their gala on one engine at a max speed of 25mph? Reckon I'm staying in! 😎

So we just need to attach our lightning rods to the track,Frankenstein was ahead of his time for stay alive it seems,so the DCC concepts voltage meter is a usefull tool on the layout as my powercab runs far lower than 16 volts too.

[Gilbert]

9 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

 

Agree with @ERIC ALLTORQUE - this forum is a great practical community for resolving issues like this. So for the afternoon do I stay in the model room with 2 Deltics running at full throttle or nip down the road to the GWSR to experience 55019 at their gala on one engine at a max speed of 25mph? Reckon I'm staying in! 😎

I'd give it some careful thought..

 

[Ian Hargrave]

10 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

 

Happy to report that with the PowerCab set up to supply a single track with full power the stay alive on both of my Deltics (one with the revised CV's the other with the CV's altered as suggested) works. I didnt time it but I believe the on with the modified CV's ran for slightly longer when lifted from the track than the standard as supplied.

 

So no fault from Accurascale and it looks like I need to upgrade my DCC system :)

 

Agree with @ERIC ALLTORQUE - this forum is a great practical community for resolving issues like this. So for the afternoon do I stay in the model room with 2 Deltics running at full throttle or nip down the road to the GWSR to experience 55019 at their gala on one engine at a max speed of 25mph? Reckon I'm staying in! 😎

But for the strike and the only alternative of a long drive,I’d be at Taddington. But I did have a ride behind 55009 at the GCR yesterday,similarly one legged but at more than 25 mph. Even made a special stop for me on the return leg at Quorn where I’d parked my car . The timetable had been changed apparently.,so the train ( 4MK 1 plus refreshment BG ) wasn’t scheduled to stop. Looked beautiful and sounded in very good health at least on the single Napier.The Napier is to the Deltic as the Merlin is to the Spitfire.

 

She’s on duty again today as the GCR have had to put a ban on steam operation due to lineside fire risk. The cutting at Rothley is well scorched by “something “.

[meatloaf]

Does drive hold on F5 not work for anyone else? With F5 engaged the loco still speeds up or slows down?

[Bucoops]

40 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

So we just need to attach our lightning rods to the track,Frankenstein was ahead of his time for stay alive it seems,so the DCC concepts voltage meter is a usefull tool on the layout as my powercab runs far lower than 16 volts too.

 

1.21 Gigawatts coming right up :D

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

5 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

1.21 Gigawatts coming right up :D

No slow speed stutter though.........should that not be coming right down.

[SHMD]

What the hells a "Jiga wot" anyway"

 

 

Kev.

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

12 minutes ago, SHMD said:

What the hells a "Jiga wot" anyway"

 

 

Kev.

A musical Question i guess.......

[55020]

1 hour ago, meatloaf said:

Does drive hold on F5 not work for anyone else? With F5 engaged the loco still speeds up or slows down?

 

Have you adjusted the CVs as detailed on the Accurascale website?  The decoders are not set up with Drive Hold enabled by default.

 

https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/how-to-enable-drive-hold

 

 

Steve

[Bucoops]

3 hours ago, SHMD said:

What the hells a "Jiga wot" anyway"

 

 

Kev.

 

Ask Marty McFly ;)

[meatloaf]

4 hours ago, 55020 said:

 

Have you adjusted the CVs as detailed on the Accurascale website?  The decoders are not set up with Drive Hold enabled by default.

 

https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/how-to-enable-drive-hold

 

 

Steve

Ah thank you i hadnt realised :)

[TravisM]

On 30/07/2022 at 14:19, Gilbert said:

I'd give it some careful thought..

 

Really hope 55019 in it’s current livery with the high intensity headlight is on the list for the second run, as well as 55022 which I believe is due out on the mainline later this year.

[TravisM]

Without trawling through all the comments, how easy is it to remove the body?  I’ve recently acquired a set of ModelU BR late crew to put in my 55001 ‘St Paddy’ and I can’t find anywhere on YouTube a clear video of the body being removed.  I have Arthritis issues with my hands and I want to remove the body without injury to both hands and model.

 

There are one or two videos on YouTube, but why oh why can’t they mount the camera on a tripod or clamp to leave the hands free?  Really annoying when your trying to watch something and the camera is pointing at the ceiling, legs, then floor, quick look at the loco and then at their crotch.  All very off putting.

[Bishdurham]

35 minutes ago, jools1959 said:

Without trawling through all the comments, how easy is it to remove the body?  I’ve recently acquired a set of ModelU BR late crew to put in my 55001 ‘St Paddy’ and I can’t find anywhere on YouTube a clear video of the body being removed.  I have Arthritis issues with my hands and I want to remove the body without injury to both hands and model.

 

There are one or two videos on YouTube, but why oh why can’t they mount the camera on a tripod or clamp to leave the hands free?  Really annoying when your trying to watch something and the camera is pointing at the ceiling, legs, then floor, quick look at the loco and then at their crotch.  All very off putting.

https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/how-to-remove-the-deltic-body

 

Search of FAQ on Accurascale website provides many answers if you wish to look.

[TravisM]

1 hour ago, Bishdurham said:

https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/how-to-remove-the-deltic-body

 

Search of FAQ on Accurascale website provides many answers if you wish to look.

 

Thanks for that, I just thought the easiest way was YouTube as you could follow a step by step process, boy was I wrong...

[Phil Parker]

5 hours ago, jools1959 said:

There are one or two videos on YouTube, but why oh why can’t they mount the camera on a tripod or clamp to leave the hands free?  Really annoying when your trying to watch something and the camera is pointing at the ceiling, legs, then floor, quick look at the loco and then at their crotch.  All very off putting

 

You get what you pay for...

[55020]

8 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Without trawling through all the comments, how easy is it to remove the body?  I’ve recently acquired a set of ModelU BR late crew to put in my 55001 ‘St Paddy’ and I can’t find anywhere on YouTube a clear video of the body being removed.  I have Arthritis issues with my hands and I want to remove the body without injury to both hands and model.

 

There are one or two videos on YouTube, but why oh why can’t they mount the camera on a tripod or clamp to leave the hands free?  Really annoying when your trying to watch something and the camera is pointing at the ceiling, legs, then floor, quick look at the loco and then at their crotch.  All very off putting.

 

Once you disconnect the chains, I found it very easy.  The body is flexible enough to easily allow for some thin card to be slid in past the clips, their location being clearly explained in the AS instructions..  Once 4 pieces of card are in place the body just slid off. 

 

I'd say this method is actually better and easier than unscrewing and removing  x number of tiny screws that other manufacturers use.

 

 

Steve

[AForce]

10 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Really hope 55019 in it’s current livery with the high intensity headlight is on the list for the second run, as well as 55022 which I believe is due out on the mainline later this year.

 

I'm with you there @jools1959. 55019 was on good form at the GWSR gala on Friday.