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Accurascale Class 55 Deltic - 4mm scale


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1 hour ago, SHMD said:

I see "Ballymoss" is not camera shy!

 

 

Kev.

(...who still hasn't opened his.)

 

It is rather photogenic. The white window surrounds lifted the plain banger blue. The Finsbury Park look is perhaps my favourite, though TTG looks good as well. 

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2 hours ago, 97406 said:

Regarding fitting the pipework to the bufferbeams, it is worth removing any paint on the bonding surfaces of the pipework before you glue it in place. If you don't the paint sticks to the bufferbeam, but the pipe itself doesn't stick to the paint.

 

DSCF0522.JPG

That’s a lovely picture but do I see a chain from the rear bogie in the ballast?

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12 hours ago, sirwilliamfrs said:

Am I doing something wrong? In the e-mail from AS there are links to Support such as fitting bufferbeam detail, body removal etc. When I click on them all I get is a Support page with a pic of 55016 but I can progress no further. Suggestions please, many thanks.

 

Go to www.accurascale.co.uk > open menu > then news & support > then FAQ > wait till page loads ......

 

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1 minute ago, No Decorum said:

That’s a lovely picture but do I see a chain from the rear bogie in the ballast?

 

Well spotted! Another one bites the dust. Ballymoss now only has 1 of it’s original 4 chains in place. That will be removed too. They’re lovely looking, but fragile. 

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One question for Fran & Co if I may?

 

why the extensive use of yellow plastic for the detail parts, surely the black bits would have been better cast in black plastic and then not painted - glue bonds would have been better and less bits dropped off in transit.

 

I can see a bottle of Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black will be needed to maintain the finish on mine

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1 hour ago, thetrains said:

I would not expect them to couple on trainset curves – R2, R3 – I would expect on gentle model railway ones.  I did measure radius this morning and works out about 6ft 8”/2004mm.

.....

 

2.JPG

 

Surely that's not a 6' radius curve? I wouldn't expect anything later than Lima's horrendously large tension-locks to couple at those angles.

 

Whilst we're on the subject of couplings...

 

55 Couplings.jpg

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with them as they come; but if Sam's Trains has been subjecting them to excessive force in his testing he may have twisted the kinematic mechanism upwards.*

 

* That's me being polite.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, AY Mod said:

 

 

 

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with them as they come; but if Sam's Trains has been subjecting them to excessive force in his testing he may have twisted the kinematic mechanism upwards.*

 

* That's me being polite.

 

 

'Excessive force' such as towing a breeze block for example? 🤣

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Just now, MikeParkin65 said:

'Excessive force' such as towing a breeze block for example? 🤣

 

I'll happily stand by my own 'excesses'. 😆

 

I wouldn't be blaming Accurascale if my industrial approach to RTR abuse had a detrimental effect.

 

My concerns are more mundane; the headcode panel lights need knocking back in brightness; I'll have a look when I open it up to fit the crew.

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13 hours ago, McC said:

Fixing a coupler to the bogie creates other issues and mkre compromises. The kinematic system has been extensively tested and while not designed to be able to couple on bends without the hand of god helping out it should not cause any derailment unless perhaps there is a conflict with what it’s pulling?

 

 

I am absolutely positive my issue is nothing to do with the couplings they seem very “free” and align properly, I have a feeling it might be a drive issue when the bogie is at a particular curve angle.

 

I am going to check for “bits” on the wheels today though, but not having a blanking chip means I have to jury rig a power supply from the DCC control.

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6 minutes ago, thetrains said:

Well may be I have I've done my sums wrong, based on R1 being 371mm, add 67mm gives R2 at 438, and each larger radius being 67mm more than last and I keep going to my 2000mm it's probably about R15+ pretty gentle.  Anyway still working on what's causing this snagging to kinematic. Will get there.

 

Have you thought about fitting a wire 'goalpost' coupling instead potentially? I use these as it lets you fit the full pipework at both ends of the loco, and it can still work with your coaches on curves using their original tension lock couplings. I've yet to fit my D9016 with a goalpost but will be doing so, on all my locos I use 0.45mm handrail wire bent into a 'U' shape, drilled in to the bufferbeam and secured with superglue/contact adhesive.

 

I had trouble with Hornby Class 60s and their kinematic couplers centering, a wire goalpost solves two problems in one by going for a DIY coupler for improved running and getting the pipe details fitted, it mainly works well for locos where you're pulling things rather than pushing, just to caveat though.

 

Quick pic on a spare 47, but my 'Deltic' will get the same treatment soon -

 

1581439008_Goalpostcoupling.PNG.e77062150135851c75ae2f2865ae8361.PNG

 

Cheers,

James

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Issues with kinematic couplings not swinging back to centre are common I find. My Hornby 60, 56s and 31s are all affected and end up having the couplings replaced with goalposts.

 

My 55005 arrived whilst I was in Wales last week. Seems all fine on the short piece of track I have at home. Really looking forward to letting it streatch its legs at the club this week!

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1 hour ago, James Makin said:

 

Have you thought about fitting a wire 'goalpost' coupling instead potentially? I use these as it lets you fit the full pipework at both ends of the loco, and it can still work with your coaches on curves using their original tension lock couplings. I've yet to fit my D9016 with a goalpost but will be doing so, on all my locos I use 0.45mm handrail wire bent into a 'U' shape, drilled in to the bufferbeam and secured with superglue/contact adhesive.

 

I had trouble with Hornby Class 60s and their kinematic couplers centering, a wire goalpost solves two problems in one by going for a DIY coupler for improved running and getting the pipe details fitted, it mainly works well for locos where you're pulling things rather than pushing, just to caveat though.

 

Quick pic on a spare 47, but my 'Deltic' will get the same treatment soon -

 

1581439008_Goalpostcoupling.PNG.e77062150135851c75ae2f2865ae8361.PNG

 

Cheers,

James

 

I will be doing the same on mine. Again, use something similar on my other locos.

 

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3 minutes ago, Accurascale Fran said:

 

Hi @Chilly,

 

It's an antenna. So yes, it should be there 😉

 

2074775847_55009Medstead110513.jpg.7cf1d1690f700c43c75a0eedb34d51ea.jpg

 

That's the level of detail we go to :) 

 

Cheers!

 

Fran 

 

 

Looks like they've put the Decoder access panel in back to front on that one Fran judging by the misaligned cant rail stripe, if only EE had added two little pips on one side.......

Edited by RedgateModels
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