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Lima Hacking Thread (was Class 37 Upgrade)


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Clive thank you for the indepth discussion on the 37 - it seems that the 73 and the 50 are the diamonds in the rough, so to speak?

 

As I have mentioned earlier however, I already have all the components with a total cost of less than a meal out and I definitely need the practise in painting, weathering, detailing, etc. - so I think I'm going to just got it a shot. So, along the lines of the new windows - I guess my fancy SE Finecast flush glazing is no longer going to fit, if I add the A1 models brass window surrounds, is it? 

Hi William

 

There is nothing wrong in practicing your modelling with an inexpensive second hand Lima class 37.

 

If I want a more accurate model the Lima one is not first on the list.

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Clive thank you for the indepth discussion on the 37 - it seems that the 73 and the 50 are the diamonds in the rough, so to speak?

 

As I have mentioned earlier however, I already have all the components with a total cost of less than a meal out and I definitely need the practise in painting, weathering, detailing, etc. - so I think I'm going to just got it a shot. So, along the lines of the new windows - I guess my fancy SE Finecast flush glazing is no longer going to fit, if I add the A1 models brass window surrounds, is it? 

 

You are right about the SE Finecast flush glazing not fitting the A1 brass window surrounds, but that's no real shame. I use clear acetate for the windows, cut to shape and stuck to the rear of the window surrounds. it is a toss up whether it is easier to attach the acetate glazing behind the new brass surrounds after the loco has been sprayed/painted or whether you should sandwich the acetate between the original plastic windscreen (which has to be cut away somewhat) and the brass surround. I have tried both methods. When using the second method it might be easier if you prime and paint the brass overlay before attaching to the acetate and the loco itself. It's all about experimentation to see what works best for you!

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What Lima models do people think are worth upgrading? And what errors need correcting?

 

Myself I have the class 31, remotored using Hornby bogies from mazac donors.

 

The class 47, using Heljan bogies and motors, to correct the wrong sized bogies. Question, has anybody measured the Lima body width? I was told that the Heljan is too wide, but the Lima is too narrow.

 

The HST, which I am going to use the super detailed Hornby chassis under.

 

The 73, although I have none of these myself.

 

Any others, and any errors in the models?

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i have already done one, using a mazac donor bought cheaply (less than £30). Also, look at what corbs has done. Using the Heljan hand rails is a quick and easy win. The advantage of using the Heljan bits is you can build the chassis using a spare Hornby chassis, and sell on the original lima one compleate. I do have anouther to do, so will post something when I get going.

 

I will also second the use of halfords vauxhall mustard yellow for respraying the lima bodies with. This gets rid of the awful lima yellow molded plastic.

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I know the Dapol 73 has had lots of criticisms, as regards running particularly, and some of the liveries. But maybe I did not get the Friday afternoon ones. I have four of them, and only one had any problems in running, which was soon sorted when I played with the pick-ups. But, like many, I preferred the Lima/Hornby body shape - don't really know why, it just looked "more right". I tried fitting a Lima body to a Dapol chassis, but it was simply much too complex for me - has anyone done this successfully?

 

As for Class 31, the Airfix body was the best ever made, by far. I kept mine, and will upgrade the chassis and motor one day (don't really need it for my new layout).

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Guest teacupteacup

Dont forget that you can make Lima motors run really smoothly, especially on DCC.  As a matter of procedure, I strip the motor bogies down to their component parts, scrub them, remove any rough bits on the gears, then reassemble, adding extra pick-ups.  I use a tiny amount of synthetic oil on the gears and thats it.  Takes a bit of time, is a bit mucky but its cheap!  I've turned some seized motors into sewing machines.  Mind you there are some that will just never run well!

 

In upgrading Lima mechanisms my first port of call is a Hornby Railroad chassis, or a more modern drive train from a suitable donor

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What Lima models do people think are worth upgrading? And what errors need correcting?

 

Myself I have the class 31, remotored using Hornby bogies from mazac donors.

 

The class 47, using Heljan bogies and motors, to correct the wrong sized bogies. Question, has anybody measured the Lima body width? I was told that the Heljan is too wide, but the Lima is too narrow.

 

The HST, which I am going to use the super detailed Hornby chassis under.

 

The 73, although I have none of these myself.

 

Any others, and any errors in the models?

 

 

I loved my Lima models... Have sold the majority but now only have 73s (which I'm attempting to fit Dapol chassis to), a 156 as it was my favourite from my first layout, and a 101 & HST in bits. Overall though I think the modern models are better

 

There is an excellent thread somewhere on improving the detail on the 73 chassis - loads to do which I couldn't face doing. After that I think the Lima 73 shape is excellent.

 

Not done one but the 31 looks good. 

 

I'm quite a fan of vitrains 37s and 47s but they need alot of work to bring up to scratch

 

Enjoy your lima hacking though!!

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I have accumulated a number of Limby Met-Cam DMUs in both green and blue for the transition period, twins and 3-cars - and for my purposes they achieve equal billing with the Bachmann alternative, of which variety I have also acquired a couple of twins.  The latter will act as detailing guides for the Limbies.  The RR mechanism is perfectly adequate for DMU running and generally the detailing/ printing leaves little to be desired, so a modest amount of modelling here should provide decent results.

 

I've also standardized on Class 40 RR chassis under Lima bodies for my EE Type 4 fleet, fully aware that there's a priority list of essential tweaks to do, including in no particular order:

  1. Windscreens
  2. Frost grilles
  3. Nose sculpture
  4. Solebar profile
  5. Handrails
  6. Discs and headcode mods
  7. Boiler ports
  8. Livery adjustment

There are probably plenty more - I'm all ears if anyone wishes to add to or unpack this list.   :angel:

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