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Bootlace ferrules. Crimping


The Bigbee Line
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What are yoiu using the ferrules on, and what are the wires going into? I use them a lot at work in Ceeform mains connectors but we've never bothered crimping them, just put the ferrule on the end of the wire before putting it into the screw terminal.

 

Andi

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What is a good tool

I want to use the ferrules. What is a good value tool. I see some over £150.....

Something like this?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-25-6mm-Bootlace-Ferrule-Hand-Wire-Cord-End-Crimper-Crimp-Crimping-Tool-Pliers/223154624566?epid=23020136056&hash=item33f50d5836:g:GGAAAOSwonJbo-Hl:rk:8:pf:0

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Must admit that I have simply squeezed the ferrule with a pair of pliers, keeps them on until they get squashed in the connectors.

 

Only last night I noticed these crimpers being used on Big Clive's youtube channel at 5:05 minutes

 

 

Brian

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I bought one of these from Rapid's eBay shop.  They work very well.

 

Personally I'm not too keen on that crimp in post #6: those serrations look to me like they could be a bit weak and prone to failure under a fairly low bending load.  The CK Tools one gives a uniform squeeze/crush crimp that slips neatly in to the terminal block; not had any failures to date.

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I bought one of these from Rapid's eBay shop.  They work very well.

 

Personally I'm not too keen on that crimp in post #6: those serrations look to me like they could be a bit weak and prone to failure under a fairly low bending load.  The CK Tools one gives a uniform squeeze/crush crimp that slips neatly in to the terminal block; not had any failures to date.

Thanks for that.  I think it looks 'more agressive' than it actually is, as the ferrule did not need an immense amount of squeezing.  Proof of the pudding and all that...

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Thanks for that.  I think it looks 'more agressive' than it actually is, as the ferrule did not need an immense amount of squeezing.  Proof of the pudding and all that...

 

It'll look different when you use the correct size Ferrule for the Wire being used.

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I’m not a fan of crimping. The problem is that crimping flattens the ferrule and increases the “width” to the extent that, unless you choose your screw type terminal carefully, the crimped ferrule cannot be inserted into the hole in the terminal. Be aware the some of the MERG kits suffer from this issue as the terminals that come in their kits are too small.

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The problem is that crimping flattens the ferrule and increases the “width” to the extent that, unless you choose your screw type terminal carefully, the crimped ferrule cannot be inserted into the hole in the terminal. 

 

The particular Crimp Tool under discussion produces a "Square" finish so the width shouldn't increase.

 

Be aware the some of the MERG kits suffer from this issue as the terminals that come in their kits are too small.

 

That is more of an issue with MERG Kits than an issue with the Crimp Tool.

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The particular Crimp Tool under discussion produces a "Square" finish so the width shouldn't increase.

 

 

 

That is more of an issue with MERG Kits than an issue with the Crimp Tool.

Thanks. That sounds a reasonable explanation. Just a pity after several years of MERG membership that’s the first time using a crimping tool to give a square section has been mentioned.
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Thanks. That sounds a reasonable explanation. Just a pity after several years of MERG membership that’s the first time using a crimping tool to give a square section has been mentioned.

Terry

 

The action of this crimper squeezes the crimp evenly on all 4 sides, I was most impressed by the action. 

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On domestic and model railway wiring I prefer to fit a tight fitting ferrule and squash it with the clamping screw of the connector rather than pre crimping the ferrule.  Many years motor trade experience led me to solder connections rather than rely on crimping as I saw so many faults caused by loose crimped connectors. 

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Interesting topic, I see them used a lot at work supposedly because unconstrained multistrand wire can flatten and become loose over time and she to equipment vibration. Not quite the same as bouncing a layout around in the back of a van a few times every year, but still why I try to solder connections wherever possible ( something the Electrical Engineers at work call "wet work", and what I usually end up doing because nobody else knows how....).

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The danger with soldering anything where the wire may move is that the wire will break, or at least individual cores will, where it goes from soldered to not-soldered. If soldering a wire which is then going into some form of screw terminal or similar, fix the wire so it cannot move about. An alternative is heat shrink from the soldered part to some way down the unsoldered. This means any flexing is in the unsoldered, flexible length.

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If you add solder to a wire, and then put it into a screw terminal (which I used to do as it seemed neat and simple), the solder will gradually flow away and the connection will become loose. Crimping, or wire-wrapping will, over time, form a cold weld, so the joint actually improves with age. Screws can loosen with vibration though. It's a mine field trying to find the best joint for a particular situation.

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IME if you tighten the screw connector on to a soldered end of wire too much, it can crush the soldered end so much that it breaks in two.  A crimped ferrule will 'give' a bit as the screw is tightened, and allow the individual cores to rearrange themselves as the pressure increases, making the whole assemblage a bit more resilient and reducing this risk.  Up to a point.

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Quite an interesting topic with, as usual, some differing points of view.

 

I was talking to a work colleague, not a modeller, who started with the NCB working on maintaining machinery rather than pure mining itself.

 

His view on connections was to avoid solder and use crimps every time.  That is from baby ones as we would use up to 1000 volt cables where the crimping tool is hydraulic because of the pressure required.

 

I had the misfortune to have an ETH cable pull out on a loco and had to fix a new crimp on the short end of the cable that disappeared into the nose end of the loco.  B@stard job, plus the orange boxes you see are aluminium alloy and all the bolts shear off.......

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A lot of engineering goes into making reliable connections. My favorite is wire wrap. The wire is wrapped round a square pin and the wire cold-welds at the corners of the pin. You don't see it much these days.

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A lot of engineering goes into making reliable connections. My favorite is wire wrap. The wire is wrapped round a square pin and the wire cold-welds at the corners of the pin. You don't see it much these days.

Used to be the favoured termination on telephone exchange terminal blocks.

At one time I had to inspect them!

 

Keith

 

Edit: Faulty ones were soldered to get a good connexion

Edited by melmerby
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Wire Wrap used to be important for space vehicles and satellites because the wire wrap did not trap any air. Soldered jounts could literally explode in the vacuum of space because of air pockets in the joint.

 

OK, not important for model railways, but interesting nevertheless.

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