Bachmann OWB problems

[young37215]

I have an OWB hard wired with a DCC chip. I know that it does not represent anything that runs on the UK network and the motor is noisy but I like it all the same. I have a problem with the underside of the vehicle which constantly fouls on my Peco code 75 points causing it to stop. The motor continues to run, the problem is a low hanging axle unit containing the drive to the wheels at each end in which the axles sit. The 'protrusion' can be seen between the wheels at both ends in the attached picture.  

 

 

Initially I thought the point of the fouling was the wire that moves the point tie bar from the servos used as point motors but under closer inspection today I found that it is the plastic moulding on the point. I think that I can file off a mm, perhaps more of the 'protrusion' which may solve my problem although I am concerned that this may do damage. I do not want to dispose of the OWB but will do so unless I can find a solution.  

 

Has anyone experienced a similar problem with this model and/or, better still, found a solution?

Edited October 14, 2018 by young37215

[young37215]

Two more pictures to show the 'protrusion'. As can be seen from the first picture, this is very low and a problem waiting to happen. 

 

 

[philsandy]

As you suggest, I would file as much material from the "protrusion" to clear the points. As long as the gear wheel itself is not fouling on the points.

If it's easy to do I would remove the wheel/axle/gear assembly before you file the plastic moulding, and pack in some tissue paper to prevent any filings going in to the mechanism.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Further to 'Philsandy's' good suggestion I would take the bottom of the 'protrusion' off until it is only half a millimetre deeper than the bottom of the gear. That way it will clear well above rail height and should still somewhat protect the gear from hitting anything in the event of derailment, and also not weaken the 'clip in' retention of the axle.

[TRAILRAGE]

Strange I have one of these myself  (DC only) and never had it catch on the point itself. The only issue I had was it catching the rod on a couple of my seep point motors which I hadn't trimmed back enough.

Will have to have a look.

[SRman]

I had a similar problem with the Realtrack class 143 units over my fourth rail LT system. I filed a groove in the underhanging gear covering mouldings to clear. I would go along with what philsandy and 34C suggested.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Strange I have one of these myself  (DC only) and never had it catch on the point itself. The only issue I had was it catching the rod on a couple of my seep point motors which I hadn't trimmed back enough.

Not too surprising given how small the clearance above rail top of the housing surrounding the gear appears to be from the photos above. Two likely scenarios:

Small variations in manufacture of both the vehicle and the point lead to at least some combinations fouling.

Model manufacturer may have slightly revised the design following customer feedback, so there could be a revised trouble free version available.

 

By eyeball I would guess that the gear is the best part of 1 millimetre smaller in overall diameter than the tyre, and the housing around it descends to pretty much rail top. Thus the suggestion of only 'shaving' the bottom of the housing to leave 0.5mm below the bottom of the gear. It's all rather tight, and the protection the housing provides for the gear is a good plan, as it should warn of events such as a point actuator wire potentially nicking the gear teeth, by fouling the housing.

[young37215]

Resurrecting this old thread to record my ongoing challenges with an OWB. Despite repeated wheel cleaning and general servicing, the hard wired DCC fitted vehicle runs like a pig. The engine is noisy and performance erratic with frequent stalls. My suspicion is that at 92g the lightweight vehicle fails to maintain good contact with the rail and needs a stay alive capacitor. The trouble with this is the limited space available to fit a stay alive.

 

I would be interested to hear from anyone with similar experiences and, better still, how they resolved their problems. There has been discussion over the last few days relating to another persons OWB in the thread below. 

 

   

 

 

[PaulRhB]

8 minutes ago, young37215 said:

Resurrecting this old thread to record my ongoing challenges with an OWB. Despite repeated wheel cleaning and general servicing, the hard wired DCC fitted vehicle runs like a pig. The engine is noisy and performance erratic with frequent stalls. My suspicion is that at 92g the lightweight vehicle fails to maintain good contact with the rail and needs a stay alive capacitor. The trouble with this is the limited space available to fit a stay alive.

 

I would be interested to hear from anyone with similar experiences and, better still, how they resolved their problems. There has been discussion over the last few days relating to another persons OWB in the thread below. 

 

   

 

 

The pads for a stay alive on the Zimo decoders offer some options, is that a mx617?

Lais stay alives include circuitry so you just connect them to the ground and positive, I’ve used them on four locos now with Zimo decoders, sizes here and a custom fit tarpaulin like mine in thin lead sheet means they can be disguised as a load 

https://www.digitrains.co.uk/shop-by-product/stay-alives-1.html 

Or you can use individual components as shown on p60 of the Zimo mx series manual. 

Mine seems to run well without so far but I can see dirt on larger layouts quickly making the stay alive useful so will probably add one soon. I did video mine over a load of pointwork on a mates layout but then deleted the files by mistake with some others when I was running short on space. 

 

 

 

Note the new motor in my one, ignore the white plastic as that was an early attempt to make a new load cover. 

 

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Ok I know this might be a bit out there and go against the grain for all the rivet counters. But could you not put slightly larger wheels on. Just enough to clear the obstruction.

[PaulRhB]

On my version they’ve done away with the cover altogether 

 

[young37215]

 It seems pretty clear that there are 2 versions of the model available, Bachmann references 36-150 and 36-151. The original 36-150 which I have has no DCC harness and requires a chip hard wiring. The second and presumably latter version 36-151 comes 8 pin DCC ready with a revised motor and subtle design changes to the chassis as owned and photographed by PaulRhB.

 

I watched a couple of Youtube videos where the engine sounded horrible much like mine suggesting that it was an original version. The revised motor suggests that Bachmann realised the original was poor and have changed it. 

 

I'll see if I can find someone who is sufficiently knowledgeable and competent to add a stay alive, without this my version is pretty much unusable and sits in a siding all day long. 

[PaulRhB]

5 minutes ago, young37215 said:

I'll see if I can find someone who is sufficiently knowledgeable and competent to add a stay alive, without this my version is pretty much unusable and sits in a siding all day long. 

Which chip have you got in it?

I fitted a stay alive to a Zimo MS chip, you need to carefully and lightly scrape the pads to clean them, a touch of solder on a clean bit to tin them , tin the wire and then hold on the pad and another brief touch of the iron to secure it. You can protect the pads either side with masking tape to avoid bridging pads. 

 

5 minutes ago, young37215 said:

The revised motor suggests that Bachmann realised the original was poor and have changed it. 

Until I added the lead weight stuck to the motor case mine was screechy too. All I did was a pin drop of oil each end of the motor and then the happy accident that did far more to dull the sound. 

Edited February 26, 2023 by PaulRhB

[young37215]

4 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

Which chip have you got in it?

I fitted a stay alive to a Zimo MS chip, you need to carefully and lightly scrape the pads to clean them, a touch of solder on a clean bit to tin them , tin the wire and then hold on the pad and another brief touch of the iron to secure it. You can protect the pads either side with masking tape to avoid bridging pads. 

 

Until I added the lead weight stuck to the motor case mine was screechy too. All I did was a pin drop of oil each end of the motor and then the happy accident that did far more to dull the sound. 

 

The fitted chip is an ESU one, I am pretty sure the Lokpilot Nano (it has LPN printed on it). I'll get the settings checked with my pals Lokprogrammer to see if these can be improved, on my 28 speed step controller I find it needs to run around speed step 18 to minimise stalling. The actual speed at 18 is still modest, I was never that impressed by the chap who installed it and wonder if the settings have ever been optimised. I'll also have a look at the BEMF arrangements and have downloaded the LokPilot manual to help. 

 

All in all I still suspect that the base problem is the lightweight nature of the model and the most effective way of improving the running will be a stay alive. Whether one can be made to fit into the space available is another matter, I'll sub-contract this job out because I am not good with things electrical. 

 

Please can you weigh your model and advise? I doubt that there will be much difference between our respective models but it will be interesting to compare the two OWB versions. 

 

 

 

[PaulRhB]

On 25/02/2023 at 10:57, young37215 said:

Resurrecting this old thread to record my ongoing challenges with an OWB. Despite repeated wheel cleaning and general servicing, the hard wired DCC fitted vehicle runs like a pig. The engine is noisy and performance erratic with frequent stalls. My suspicion is that at 92g the lightweight vehicle fails to maintain good contact with the rail and needs a stay alive capacitor. The trouble with this is the limited space available to fit a stay alive.

 

I would be interested to hear from anyone with similar experiences and, better still, how they resolved their problems. There has been discussion over the last few days relating to another persons OWB in the thread below. 

 

   

 

 

 

so my weight is about 8g less than the factory one, I think a stay alive is the only solution really.