sagaguy Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 I bought a Triang Hornby AL1 which was the same body moulding but with Triang bogies.It will run under my catenary but i had to machine some new wheels for the trailing bogie for the return current to the track.Here`s a short video of it. Like Garry,i repaint & refurbish & convert my locos to 3 rail,Wrenn spamcans have limited clearance for P/ups which is why they fitted with Marklin skates but most Wrenn are Dublo copies so will take a standard collector. Spamcan Latest aquisition,Wrenn Scot converted in the last couple of days And finally,my conversion of a R1 tank loco Ray. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) Which is exactly how I got all my metal platform extensions too, although I haven't got around to respraying them yet.. The idea is excellent but leaves the problem of what to do with the buildings. They are too good to bin. My 3 rail R1 conversion is too messy to post here! Edited September 7, 2018 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Ray, are you talking about the Dublo Ringfields? If so I have had quite a few weaken which were fine after a remag, prior to getting the remag machine I replaced with Neos before I discovered the issues with them, bought the remag and used MOST of the originals. I say most as a couple would not take and before I left the HRCA there was a discussion about a few faulty Ringfields Dublo used that were always weaker and would not take any remaging. Garry I must confess that i have never had a problem with ringfield magnets even after taking them out & turning 180deg to give the correct direction of running.Strange. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) I must confess that i have never had a problem with ringfield magnets even after taking them out & turning 180deg to give the correct direction of running.Strange. Ray. They appear to be very variable I have three Co-Co, Co-Bo and West Country, which are:- useless & replaced with a neo, OK, and excellent. It's probably slight variations in the composition of the magnetic alloy affecting the remanence. The old AlNiCo magnets also seem to vary a lot. Edited September 7, 2018 by Il Grifone 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 The idea is excellent but leaves the problem of what to do with the buildings. They are too good to bin. My 3 rail R1 conversion is too messy to post here! David, I have seen some Dublo layouts where the Island platform buildings have been shortened, lengthened, built up on etc to be used in different locations, some of the nice "realistic" ones were as is and shortened to be used in Loco yards as offices. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 I bought a Triang Hornby AL1 which was the same body moulding but with Triang bogies.It will run under my catenary but i had to machine some new wheels for the trailing bogie for the return current to the track.Here`s a short video of it. Like Garry,i repaint & refurbish & convert my locos to 3 rail,Wrenn spamcans have limited clearance for P/ups which is why they fitted with Marklin skates but most Wrenn are Dublo copies so will take a standard collector. Spamcan 20180219_134422.jpg Latest aquisition,Wrenn Scot converted in the last couple of days 20180907_093842.jpg And finally,my conversion of a R1 tank loco 20180310_091610.jpg Ray. Tri-ang altered the AL1 body before they used the Dublo moulding. Basically it was the same but Tri-ang added the silly looking levered switch on top instead of the neat Dublo plug and changed the body fixing for their own but worse chassis. Initially it still had two Pantographs but soon changed to just one. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted September 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2018 The idea is excellent but leaves the problem of what to do with the buildings. They are too good to bin. My 3 rail R1 conversion is too messy to post here! Could you squeeze two buildings on one extension? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Could you squeeze two buildings on one extension? No problem,you could cut the roof overhang at one end of the buildings & make one long version or as an office/mess room at the loco shed or even use one as a bus shelter if you have the room.Let your imagination run free .. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 The idea is excellent but leaves the problem of what to do with the buildings. They are too good to bin. My 3 rail R1 conversion is too messy to post here! Funny that this appeard on my FB account tonight. A few variations. I have seen one where two signal boxes had a couple mounted across so it spanned a few tracks. Garry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Ray belated thanks for that early motor photo; very interesting. As you say, no Pittman there, in fact quite a dated design, which I bet took a fair bit of current. perhaps the motor I was thinking of as 'Pittman-like' was the next one on. Kevin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Ray belated thanks for that early motor photo; very interesting. As you say, no Pittman there, in fact quite a dated design, which I bet took a fair bit of current. perhaps the motor I was thinking of as 'Pittman-like' was the next one on. Kevin You must be thinking of the 1/2" motor used in the first Castles and 8F's before the Ringfields were developed. The 1/2" continued with the R1 then with Wrenn in both the R1 and 0-6-2. Wrenn never used the Dublo 0-6-2 chassis which had the same wheel base as the R1 but made a plate to fit the R1 block modifying the body to suit. They also made a completely new pony truck for the 0-6-2. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) Ray belated thanks for that early motor photo; very interesting. As you say, no Pittman there, in fact quite a dated design, which I bet took a fair bit of current. perhaps the motor I was thinking of as 'Pittman-like' was the next one on. Kevin 'Cutting edge' when it was designed in the mid thirties. They changed the magnet design in 1949 when better alloys became available and reduced the number of turns on the armature using thicker wire. (My first 'Atholl' was one of the later type from 1951). The first controllers were rated at 1 amp, but I think they were being generous. My horseshoe Duchess is quite happy of the later ones only rated at 9 V.A. (3/4 amp) but I have never actually measured her current draw. Edited September 8, 2018 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) I was comparing it with 0 gauge motors from the mid-30s, some of which had progressed beyond this type of design (some hadn’t, and are notorious for im-permanent magnetism); I think it’s generous to call it ‘cutting edge’, although maybe getting down to the smaller size merits that description. But, the sort of current you cite isn’t too bad at all. Edited September 8, 2018 by Nearholmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) Seeing the competing motor designs in 00, I think it was quite an advance. Witness how many are still working. (Zinc pest aside, but that is nothing to do with the basic design.) As I said, I 've not actually measured the current of a horseshoe motor*, but a Dublo motor in good order will run with only a slight gilmmer at most from the overlaod lamp. It does tend to vary with the brush tension, which can be critical. The best performance doesn't always coincicide with the lowest current. *I have five, but two lack vital parts (magnet and armature for a start) and the fifth doesn't really count as it is pre-war and has succumbed to the dreaded pest and broken into several chunks. I intend to try and restore it following this procedure. The following link contains images of a distressing nature.... www.rivarossi-memory.it/Tecnica/Peste_Zama_cura/Curare_peste_zama.htm (google translate may be needed) I shall have to do it in Italy, as it involves nasty chemicals which are hard to obtain here. Steps 6 & 8 are best carried out in the absence of SWMBO and with the windows open IMHO. Edited September 8, 2018 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) From the above the following was perhaps rather premature: Oggi tecnologie avanzate assicurano purezza dei componenti della lega (zinco 99,995%) e fusioni ad alta pressione (dunque la soppressione nella lega dei fluidificanti) che ridanno nuova vitalità allo zama ma ci furono anni in cui i fermodellisti tremavano al solo pensiero di scoprire angoscianti sorprese nelle scatole dei loro amati modelli. From Google translate (edited for failure) Today advanced technologies ensure the purity of the alloy components (99.995% zinc) and high pressure fusion (hence the suppression in the alloy of fluidisers) that give new zinc alloy vitality but there were years in which railway modellers trembled at the thought of discovering distressing surprises in the boxes of their beloved models. The Italian is rather stronger than 'distressing'.... Edited September 8, 2018 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolseley Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 The following link contains images of a distressing nature.... www.rivarossi-memory.it/Tecnica/Peste_Zama_cura/Curare_peste_zama.htm (google translate may be needed). I tried without, but I had to resort to Google Translate for some of the words - not all of them are the sort of words you use in everyday conversation. I don't like the sounds of either the process or the chemicals but, if the models are good for another 40 years, they would end up outliving me..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 I'll report back when I've done my N2 chassis. However it seems to have stabilised and hasn't deteriorated further. It'll be next year now I fear. I'm off to Sardinia later in the month and I don't want to risk the bits or the noxious liquid in cabin baggage knowing how touchy airport security is.... The horseshoe chassis I have are a Duchess and 4 N2s (GWR, green LNER and 2 odd chassis - I have just acquired a black LNER body but it is very tatty). I still need an A4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I’m baffled as to how any anti-zincpest treatment can work, because the mechanism operates deep within the material. I think the proper name is inter-crystaline corroasion, or similar. Surely any treatment can only reach already exposed surfaces, which, even allowing for invisibly fine fissures seems unlikely to allow a truly deep cure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Latest loco from the repair & paint shop.This is possibly the last one for a while as i have run out of locos at the moment.The paint is Molotow Future Green from Great Art supplies.I always finish my locos with Railmatch satin varnish from an aerosol,safe on transfers. Ray. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Funny that this appeard on my FB account tonight. A few variations. I have seen one where two signal boxes had a couple mounted across so it spanned a few tracks. Garry Hi all, I have seen these buildings before at the Warley show. I always wondered where they came from. I thought they were perhaps made by an aftermarket manufacturer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Hi all, I have seen these buildings before at the Warley show. I always wondered where they came from. I thought they were perhaps made by an aftermarket manufacturer. Could that have been on the layout "I ad that" by Andy Millar? His work is good with a nice layout and a lot of repaints etc and I think his layout was at Warley last year. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I’m baffled as to how any anti-zincpest treatment can work, because the mechanism operates deep within the material. I think the proper name is inter-crystaline corroasion, or similar. Surely any treatment can only reach already exposed surfaces, which, even allowing for invisibly fine fissures seems unlikely to allow a truly deep cure. That's what I would have thought. The treatment appears to be based on the school of thought that the effect, though due to impurities, is triggered by damp. i thought I would try on the grounds that the bits I have are useless otherwise. I had forgotten that the axle bores had been opened out for Tri-ang axles (why?), but that would be easy to deal with as the end result would only be "stuffed and mounted". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolseley Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 That's what I would have thought. The treatment appears to be based on the school of thought that the effect, though due to impurities, is triggered by damp. i thought I would try on the grounds that the bits I have are useless otherwise. I had forgotten that the axle bores had been opened out for Tri-ang axles (why?), but that would be easy to deal with as the end result would only be "stuffed and mounted". The claims for this treatment reminded me of the claims made years ago (I don't think they make the same claims now, probably due to consumer protection legislation) for "rust convertors" which would turn rusty iron back into good sound metal, when, in reality, nothing short of a blast furnace can do that.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 My 3 railed Wrenn spamcans at an engine change point. Ray. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 The claims for this treatment reminded me of the claims made years ago (I don't think they make the same claims now, probably due to consumer protection legislation) for "rust convertors" which would turn rusty iron back into good sound metal, when, in reality, nothing short of a blast furnace can do that.... Usually based on phosphoric acid, which reacts with the oxide to form a protective layer on the iron. OK for surface rust but incapable of dealing with heavily corroded metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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