RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) My Andrew Barclay runs beautifully However, I've noticed that in DC with the controller set to the same position the loco runs much faster in reverse than it does going forwards Just wondered if anyone else has experienced this and if it is normal Chris Edited July 10, 2018 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Strange question, have you tried turning it round physically instead of just switching the controller reverse switch from forward to to reverse to eliminate the controller being the cause of the issue. The old locos used to do this all the time, Most were arranged to be freer running forwards than backwards as pick up springs worked against worm drive side thrust instead of working with it, but Hornby Halls/ B12 used to be faster backwards as the they had a better thrust bearing at the back. I use H&M Variable Transformers or Morley controllers which vary the voltage and find almost everything (except Hornby 42XX) goes the same speed at the same controller setting albeit at greatly different amps, which makes double heading and banking practical. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted July 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2018 (edited) My Andrew Barclay runs beautifully However, I've noticed that in DC with the controller set to the same position the loco runs much faster in reverse than it does going forwards Just wondered if anyone else has experienced this and if it is normal Chris Mine was the same to begin with, but after half-an-hour running each way on the rolling road, its pretty much even now. My P was similar. I suspect it's a case of getting the lubricant evenly distributed around the gear train. A lot of these locos will be purchased for use on "shunting planks" and without a rolling road or a circle of set track, they'll never get properly run-in. Even later on, the running of many locos (big and small) tends to deteriorate unless they get an occasional canter away from the terminus-fiddle yard shuttle. John Edited July 12, 2018 by Dunsignalling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 With so many moving and meshing parts, it is possible for there to be differences in each direction. If the axles move back and forth even slightly, the amount of friction could vary, the gears may have slightly different meshing patterns on each side of the teeth, and so on. With a good deal of running in both directions, one would expect these things to even out eventually, as John suggested above; the lubrication becomes better distributed and the gears wear in to better mesh.Going back to the original post, it used to be very common for things to run better one way than the other. This was particularly noticeable with 'single-ended' items that are run in one direction far more than the other (express steam locos would be the classic example of this). Even with double-ended items it could be noticeable though - my preference with the old Triang diesels (class 31 for example) and electrics (EM2) was to run them with the motor bogie trailing, so they always tended to run better in that direction because they hadn't been run-in (worn-in??) in the other direction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 12, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2018 (edited) Strange question, have you tried turning it round physically instead of just switching the controller reverse switch from forward to to reverse to eliminate the controller being the cause of the issue.Not a strange question at all Yeah I had tried that and the results were same, I also tried a different controller and also a 9v battery. Mine was the same to begin with, but after half-an-hour running each way on the rolling road, its pretty much even now. My P was similar. I suspect it's a case of getting the lubricant evenly distributed around the gear train. A lot of these locos will be purchased for use on "shunting planks" and without a rolling road or a circle of set track, they'll never get properly run-in. Even later on, the running of many locos (big and small) tends to deteriorate unless they get an occasional canter away from the terminus-fiddle yard shuttle. John I applied a little more lubricant and left her running on the rolling road for a further half an hour forwards and she seems a lot better now I have a dedicated programming and testing unit I've built and always 'run-in' on the rolling road and test slow speed running on the track, given myself the flexibility to be able to test/run-in in either DC or DCC Many thanks to those who have replied Edited July 12, 2018 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 (edited) A lot of these locos will be purchased for use on "shunting planks" and without a rolling road or a circle of set track, they'll never get properly run-in. Even later on, the running of many locos (big and small) tends to deteriorate unless they get an occasional canter away from the terminus-fiddle yard shuttle. John Good point, not just shunting plank and end to end either, some locos can spend years shunting a yard on a continuous run without getting decent run out, My Farish 94XX has spent the last 30 odd years working hard pulling 6/7/8 coach rakes out of platforms and shoving them back into an adjacent road. Every now and again it gets sluggish so when no one is looking I give it a blast round the main line. The GWR used to give some of the Swindon Works shunting locos a run on the workmen's trains to Cirencester, Purton, Highworth etc before starting shunting, and they based the Bridgwater docks shunter at Taunton so it had a good gallop along he GW main line first thing in the morning trying to keep out of the way of the through traffic. There are reports of the old Cardiff Rly 0-4-0ST being driven flat out light engine at 30 mph or more. 1361 0-6-0ST s also worked this turn at times. Edited July 12, 2018 by DavidCBroad 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Good point, not just shunting plank and end to end either, some locos can spend years shunting a yard on a continuous run without getting decent run out, My Farish 94XX has spent the last 30 odd years working hard pulling 6/7/8 coach rakes out of platforms and shoving them back into an adjacent road. Every now and again it gets sluggish so when no one is looking I give it a blast round the main line. The GWR used to give some of the Swindon Works shunting locos a run on the workmen's trains to Cirencester, Purton, Highworth etc before starting shunting, and they based the Bridgwater docks shunter at Taunton so it had a good gallop along he GW main line first thing in the morning trying to keep out of the way of the through traffic. There are reports of the old Cardiff Rly 0-4-0ST being driven flat out light engine at 30 mph or more. 1361 0-6-0ST s also worked this turn at times. wE used to do the same in the 60's when i worked for motorcycle shop .In would come a Honda 50 or Lambretta used by a commuter couching and spluttering and going very slowly .We used to take them for a spin down teh Southend road flat out and that blew the cobwebs away .One i remember was very slow and suddenly did a huge bang and rocketed off.It was hilarious .We also use new Honda 50 ( 3 in a crate) as a mini scrambler round our course built in the yard.Then we assembled all the gubbins that came in the crate like leg shields . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 (edited) Staying off topic for a bit. Honda 50 step thru. I remember mine well, run on a shoe string and flat out most of its life. To maximise life I would turn the back sprocket over once it had hooked its teeth to wear it out the other way. The auto-clutch also wore out and would stick engaged so stopping and starting was an art - kicking it in and out of gear at the precise moment. Back on topic. As hinted at previously the controller could be pushing out a different voltage in each direction for the same speed setting, else its down to gear lash wind up. Rob Edited July 14, 2018 by RAFHAAA96 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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