The Bigbee Line Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Progress continues on the station throat. Another piece of scrap ply has been found to provide more sub roadbed. The track now runs all the way to the baseboard joint where the platform will start. I've managed to make the curve slightly too tight. No big problem, I just need to ease it of by about 3/4" as shown by the arrow in this picture... Here is one of my new Dapol brake vans. I do like the look. It needs some weathering Finally Dads Morris J van is in the yard. He widened the frame of the ladder rack to make full width loading platform, for furniture.firewood etc 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Back home, I found time to do some track fettling, specifically slewing the pointwork outwards. In doing so I have gained roughly an inch, to make the platform 15 feed wide. This first picture shows where the platform will end, and 2 coaches to show the relative length of the approach tracks. It means that in O gauge, a loco running round it's train is more realistic timewise than OO. The loco has to go further... The short piece of track in the background is the roughed out line for the bay platform, the track alignment in the foreground is the final (or latest) alignment. Next the smoother curved transition to the curved turnout. The two inner tracks are still to be lines up Two coaches show the space between for the platform. Not sure what to make the platforms from, thinking of wood stripwood for the sides, with thin ply on top as the core. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerburnie Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 I've used balsa wood, happy with it, though I'm OO so smaller area. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 I’d go for thin ply, or laser cut MDF on top of something a bit thicker. Warping & sagging are to be avoided! Depends what finish you want - flagstones, paving slabs, concrete, tarmac. Grass... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 I had "Round 2" this evening, cutting a larger piece of ply to go under the track adjacent to the baseboard joint. The trestle under the joint is a tad high, I need to fiddle with the heights to get rid of a very very slight 'hill' at that joint. In this view you can see the very slight hill... I also need to add the cosmetic front edge to the layout... From this angle it looks better... To counter sink the screws into the ply I used the tang part of this flat bit, seemed to have more control that a counter sink... Here is my card platform mock up... There are 2 coaches in the bay, with room for a Terrier and a luggage/pram van... Finally a picture of the brick edged, grave platform, the effect I need to strive for... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Is anyone handy with one of the track planning aids to draw a three way point, based on a peco O gauge bullhead Y? I'd like to add in to lead to the future goods siding and goods shed. Any help appreciated, Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I’d not recommend modifying s Peco point to make a tandem, it’ll be difficult and I fear it will not look good. I have built two tandems over the years and they are rather fiddly - certainly much more so than a single turnout. I can give you copies of my Templot files - assuming I can find them - so you can build from C&L or Peco components, or copper clad sleepers. But of course I built them for the specific locations, so they won’t be ideal for your track plan. Alternatively, you could speak to Marcway who may have a suitable formation available, or would built a custom job if you need it. HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 I’d not recommend modifying s Peco point to make a tandem, it’ll be difficult and I fear it will not look good. I have built two tandems over the years and they are rather fiddly - certainly much more so than a single turnout. I can give you copies of my Templot files - assuming I can find them - so you can build from C&L or Peco components, or copper clad sleepers. But of course I built them for the specific locations, so they won’t be ideal for your track plan. Alternatively, you could speak to Marcway who may have a suitable formation available, or would built a custom job if you need it. HTH Simon Simon At the moment it will be the Y turnout. So any expansion needs to fit in the same footprint. I can print out the Y template and manually add the third track. Just thought that someone may have done this before. I have a Fastraxx Rail Bender, so can precurve all the rail. What can go wrong....... Thanks again Ernie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 This morning Matthew, I'll be looking at the Signal Box and the rodding routes. As usual last night the brain box was thinking about the goals for today: Eliminating the 'hill' at the join of the baseboards. Sort out the sub roadbed at the front to eliminate a very slight height differential. Cut the sub roadbed to enable the cosmetic rodding to have constant solid support (I spent some time last week taking pictures of 'round' rodding.... Anything else will be a bonus... I did actually take a drawing from the Internet and use it as a cut and paste starter for the signal box... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Is anyone handy with one of the track planning aids to draw a three way point, based on a peco O gauge bullhead Y? Hayling Island three way pic.jpg Hayling Island three way.jpg I'd like to add in to lead to the future goods siding and goods shed. Any help appreciated, Thanks I would have to agree with Simon, I would have thought the dimensions would to be a tad too small to get a 3 way in on a point that is some 17.25" in length ! Play around on Templot, and that will give you the minimum dimensions recommended in 7mm Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Spent a couple of hours on the layout today, mainly house keeping on various things on the boards. Some handy plastic trunking was used to 'rough out' the line of the curve that will form the front of the layout. Here looking towards the platforms. The plan is to have the frontage slightly higher than the track base This is the ground contour that I'm looking to recreate.. The concrete post and stranded wire fencing will be vulnerable to catching sleeves etc, maybe a Perspex style protector at fence height may be desirable. Looking towards Havant... I've also made a start on the back board, using some handy thin MDF. After getting it in place I spent a couple of hours fitting countersunk screws. The top will be trimmed to suit the final contour later.... The surplus length nearest is to be trimmed to length to match the end of the board. Finally tonight I did some manual cut and paste with some Peco Templates. Using the Y as the basis I pasted elements of the left hand curved point over the top. I'm going to use a Y in the same configuration to allow for possible expansion (probably not very likely....) 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 I found time for some modelling today. The aim was to get all the alignment issues sorted, I was using a Y at the entry to the goods sidings instead of the tandem 3-way of the prototype. The peco box over the tie bar is to get the chop... I am waiting to collect a sector plate from Tim Horn. I don't need to turn the trains as they did not turn the loco's in reality. A small run off board at the far end will allow parking for a number of Terriers. It will give room to hotch the layout down to get a small board to model the approach road/car park area. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 (edited) The joggle I had a pushing session with 2 mark 1 coaches. All fine on the platform lines, through the 2 curved turnouts. I then tied them running into the goods yard. The trailing bogie didn't like the cut out in the stock rail to take the switch on the trap point from the sidings. I swapped the outer stock rail for a new piece of rail with a joggle bent in with pliers. Here is the as purchased cut out... Here is the replacement rail... Some work with a file would not come amiss.... Edited November 10, 2018 by The Bigbee Line 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) I Thought you might like this photo taken the winter of 62/63. Martyn. Edited November 11, 2018 by 3 link 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 I Thought you might like this photo taken the winter of 62/63. IMG_0822.JPG Martyn. Martin Nice picture. If I won the lottery I’d build the whole bridge. Any other pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Ernie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Al51 Posted November 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2018 Martin Nice picture. If I won the lottery I’d build the whole bridge. Any other pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Ernie Hi Ernie, I've sent you a PM Al Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 Big big thanks to Al51 for some really useful pictures etc. I have printed off a 'place marker' station building and cleared the board to have a dry run. Using a piece of board to represent the platform it was set up and a few pictures taken for a comparison to the prototype. Although there is some compression in the length of the platform, the key section from the buffer stops of the bay platform to the end of the platform near the run round points seems to match the length of the building. I have also been looking at point operation and obtained some cables used in radio controlled aircraft to use with a 'Peter Denny' style simple mechanism made from small square timber. Any suggestions are appreciated. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Is that the mechanism where the 'lever frame' looks a bit like a piano keyboard with the 'keys' sliding forwards and backwards to actuate points/signals? If it is, in ancient Bassett Lowke books/magazines, which I guess is where Rev Denny got it from, there is a 'recipe' for adding interlocking, using of all things small screw-eyes and lengths of strong twine! In short, you could add to realism by adding interlocking. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 (edited) Is that the mechanism where the 'lever frame' looks a bit like a piano keyboard with the 'keys' sliding forwards and backwards to actuate points/signals? If it is, in ancient Bassett Lowke books/magazines, which I guess is where Rev Denny got it from, there is a 'recipe' for adding interlocking, using of all things small screw-eyes and lengths of strong twine! In short, you could add to realism by adding interlocking. Yes, that's the one. The clevis at the ends of the cable can be un-clipped, so the grand plan would be to make the frame as a sub assembly to be fitted under the baseboard top layer, with the 'levers' poking through a home at the rear of the baseboard, Any pictures of the Bassett Lowke frames would be appreciated, Thanks Ernie Edited November 24, 2018 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2018 Is that the mechanism where the 'lever frame' looks a bit like a piano keyboard with the 'keys' sliding forwards and backwards to actuate points/signals? If I remember correctly, Peter Denny actually used wooden parts from old piano keys to make his lever frames. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 If I remember correctly, Peter Denny actually used wooden parts from old piano keys to make his lever frames. Dave. Dave, I wish I had a time machine. My late father did Furniture Removing and House Clearance, he must haver broken up hundreds of pianos, mostly uprights. We always had one in the 'other room'. There were wooden and cast framed versions. Some of the strings were very thick. The wood was top quality, but sadly most ended up on the fire..... I'm on the lookout for some item to be the donor.... Anyone scrapping a piano?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 Thinking about the Denny style frame, I wanted to avoid adding any additional resistance to the system as the Peco points do not need much force when operated without a micro-switch. I think a cheap slide switch could provide the necessary latching. The Peco turnouts need approx. 5mm of travel A slide switch could be mounted with the tang sitting in a recess in the slide. I know some slide switches have a round knobs Now need to find one with a suitable 5 - 6mm travel... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I use toggles I picked up in Jaycar (Australia) that have the correct throw for a Peco O gauge point. Hopefully the details in the link will help you locate the switches. https://www.jaycar.com.au/miniature-dpdt-panel-mount-switch/p/SS0821 Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) I suggest adding an “omega loop” between switch & points. This is a simple springy loop created in your rod to allow any slight excess travel to be absorbed - traditionally formed in the shape of a Greek letter omega (♎️ Is the nearest my iPad will get, the upper part, otherwise an ohm symbol) but a zig-zag bend does just as well. This is particularly important if the switch throw is more than the point throw, but also if you have appreciable lengths of wire, and/or your layout sees changes in humidity and/or temperature. If the switch throw is less than the point throw, you’ll likely suffer derailments, sooner or later. Best Simon Edited January 13, 2019 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted January 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) Hi Ernie, Something like this from RS? According to the spec sheet it has a switch travel of 4.57mm which, if you incorporate an "omega loop" as Simond suggests, should be about right. I used very similar switches on my old N gauge layout, obtained from Maplins (sadly now gone) - I took a ruler with me to check the travel! My "omega loop" consisted of a very simple "V" in the wire (like --^--), the size of which was determined by trial and error to give me the right amount of give in the steel rod. I used DPDT switches, one pole for the frog and the other for the mimic panel leds. Worked a treat. Edited February 11 by GWR57xx restore images Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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