Simond Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Hi Ernie these https://www.screwfix.com/p/4-way-earth-block/12386 hth Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Soldering the fishplates to the rails is asking for trouble. Where are you allowing for expansion and contraction? It is far easier to solder droppers on to the rail before laying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 I fear that Peter is right, but whether it will become a problem depends on the temperature variations that the layout will see and how long it is. If it's in a centrally heated house with a max of 20, and a min of 10 C, and the track is only say 5m long, the overall expansion will be under a millimeter. But if it were outdoors, the temperature might go from -10 on a really cold night to + 50 in the sun, and then you'd have 5mm of expansion, and you'd need somewhere for it to go. the coefficient of linear expansion for cupro-nickel is about 16.2 x10^-6 per degree C hth Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 My 4 boards only total 16 feet. So I’ve got 3 joints for expansion. I have a cunning plan to have a short section of rail at each baseboard joint the is aligned with a short fishplate and has its own bond. The idea is to make any damage at joints minimal. Thanks for the interest it is really appreciated. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 Hi Ernie these https://www.screwfix.com/p/4-way-earth-block/12386 hth Simon I’ve never seen these before. They look really useful. I’m ordering a selection from RS components tonight. I already have the rolls of mains cable. My cable is stranded as it was purchased to use in conduit. Will that make a difference? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Stranded or solid, no bother, either should be fine for fixed wiring. You need stranded if it needs to flex. If you’ve got 4’ boards, you’ll have no issues with expansion, you’ll not even measure it! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 Not much modelling this week, but made a few discoveries, top tip this week was from Simond regarding Earthing Blocks. I patronised RS components and purchased a selection, like this example: They have a tin plated brass block with various numbers of holes. My plan is to have a block for each pole of the main DCC Bus. The cable for the BUS will be from rolls of mains cable I have to hand. Conveniently red and black. The cables will pass through the block without a break, just having the insulation removed for that length. The other job will be complete the joint between the first 2 boards. Because I have used some Tim Horn boards of varying widths, also subject to cringeworthy butchery, I needed to splice a different end onto the first board, glued in front of the existing front, when the glue had almost dried, screws were inserted to hold it all together. The metal pattern dowels forming the alignment between the boards were given a coat of 'Railway Green Primer' to inhibit corrosion. While the tin was open I larruped some on the front of the joint.. Lets hope it's not too wet in the morning... Also new this week were some PL-33 micro switches. I really like the way that they clip into the Peco O gauge points. The only complaint is that the wooden top to the box is very, very thin plastic. I think a screw to replace the pin maybe more effective. What have other people done.. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 As mentioned the other day, when I looked at the pictures of some of my rail joints I noticed that the alignment left something to be desired... On Wednesday night I had the opportunity to check out a few rail joints in a work location. I was reassured that my joint wasn't so bad. Here is my joint, one rail is a little low and the rail heads are of different widths... Here is a prototype joint. The near rail is worn bullhead with some 'lipping' on the left (outer) edge. The far rail is flat bottom, not new. Lift plates were used and the running edge had reasonable, not perfect alignment, but these was a slight step.... All in all mine wasn't too bad, not to say that I should accept the quality.. However (the TV favourite word of the moment) when I pushed a line of wagons through the joint there was no noise or feel to indicate that the wheels were 'seeing' the joint. If I can progress with the wiring I might get to run a loco over the weekend. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 Yes the paint was still wet.... nothing a bit of white spirit couldn't cure. I used some transparent plastic from a 'crystal wallet' to form a barrier, stopping the two boards from getting stuck together. Cutting the next section of ply for the sub roadbed for the joint. I use the camera on my phone as an alignment tool. Here is the first go... As usual there are tools that hide when needed. In this case I could not find one of my many razor saws. So improvisation stepped into play. Using a small but sharp file to file into the rail on all four sides I was able to snap off and fettle the end, ready for action. Here filing the rail... Ready to snap.... After a quick fettle with the file, ready to fit.. I had to use 1/2 length fishplates to get the sleepers at the right spacing.. In a minute I'm going to wire the second turnout and pin it in place. The four sleepers between the turnouts will be drilled and countersunk to take brass countersunk screws. When screwed down, the short lengths of rail will be cut at the join when the razor saw comes out of hiding 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 Didn't do quite as much as expected tonight, but it's a hobby, not a job.... I did dig out my late mothers reading lamp, now an essential item for me... Both curved turnouts have homes. Just need to fill in the missing lengths of rail to the trap point... Finally tonights 'fly in the ointment'. The Peco reduction in width on the stock rail is a machined area with a really hard edge. When my test trucks are pushed through, the wheel catches the edge and makes the wagon jump. It needs some smoothing off. Maybe tomorrow.... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Not much modelling this week, but made a few discoveries, top tip this week was from Simond regarding Earthing Blocks. I patronised RS components and purchased a selection, like this example: 0 terminal block.jpg They have a tin plated brass block with various numbers of holes. My plan is to have a block for each pole of the main DCC Bus. The cable for the BUS will be from rolls of mains cable I have to hand. Conveniently red and black. The cables will pass through the block without a break, just having the insulation removed for that length. The other job will be complete the joint between the first 2 boards. Because I have used some Tim Horn boards of varying widths, also subject to cringeworthy butchery, I needed to splice a different end onto the first board, glued in front of the existing front, when the glue had almost dried, screws were inserted to hold it all together. The metal pattern dowels forming the alignment between the boards were given a coat of 'Railway Green Primer' to inhibit corrosion. While the tin was open I larruped some on the front of the joint.. Lets hope it's not too wet in the morning... IMG_7918.jpg IMG_7920.jpg Also new this week were some PL-33 micro switches. I really like the way that they clip into the Peco O gauge points. The only complaint is that the wooden top to the box is very, very thin plastic. I think a screw to replace the pin maybe more effective. What have other people done.. IMG_7903.JPG IMG_7905.JPG IMG_7906.JPG IMG_7900.JPG A very fine Peco Wire type Track pin, and it looks less obvious than a screw. I remove mine completely anyway now a days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Eric, I notice the cover of the Spring is still off in the pics above, they do have a tendancy to go into orbit, a bit of tape or Blu Tac will help them stay in place until the cover is returned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerburnie Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Nice work so far, I only visited once for a family holiday in the late 1950's, my over riding memory was our coach had no corridor and my two younger brothers being dragged off to the loo before we got on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 21, 2018 Author Share Posted October 21, 2018 Eric, I notice the cover of the Spring is still off in the pics above, they do have a tendancy to go into orbit, a bit of tape or Blu Tac will help them stay in place until the cover is returned. The covers are still off as I’ve still to wire the switches. I’m looking to make a new top incorporating ramps at each end. I want to use the box at present for ease of fitting the switch. Later on the box could be removed and the switching done by a hex frog juicer that’s hiding somewhere....... Has anyone fitted an alternate tie bar? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 21, 2018 Author Share Posted October 21, 2018 Nice work so far, I only visited once for a family holiday in the late 1950's, my over riding memory was our coach had no corridor and my two younger brothers being dragged off to the loo before we got on. Thanks for that. It’s funny what you remember from childhood. I recall seeing the yellow engine shunting out of the works at Brighton. Never even got to Hayling Island when it was running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 (edited) The covers are still off as I’ve still to wire the switches. I’m looking to make a new top incorporating ramps at each end. I want to use the box at present for ease of fitting the switch. Later on the box could be removed and the switching done by a hex frog juicer that’s hiding somewhere....... Has anyone fitted an alternate tie bar? I have, on a couple of the Points. Not very clear, and has since been tidied up a bit, I could have done with a wider bit of Copper Clad, but it was a bit left over from my OO Gauge Point Making days. A better pic of it now weathered. Edited October 21, 2018 by Andrew P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 21, 2018 Author Share Posted October 21, 2018 (edited) I have, on a couple of the Points. Not very clear, and has since been tidied up a bit, I could have done with a wider bit of Copper Clad, but it was a bit left over from my OO Gauge Point Making days. IMG_5829.JPG Thanks for that. Depending on how I get on. I may replace the tiebars and close up the point blades for a better look. Edited October 21, 2018 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 Thanks for that. Depending on how I get on. I may replace the tiebars and close up the point blades for a better look. Is it possible to tweak the angles on the wing rail and check rail lead-ins? They look a bit too bent to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 22, 2018 Author Share Posted October 22, 2018 Is it possible to tweak the angles on the wing rail and check rail lead-ins? They look a bit too bent to me. Duncan I had not really noticed until now.... If I were going to change the angle, I would gently saw the rail with a razor saw before fitting, to cut almost through, very gently bend and the apply a little solder to hold. I might even have a go tonight..... Another job to do............. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 22, 2018 Author Share Posted October 22, 2018 I've been thinking about how to work the points for the last few weeks. Looking at lever frames etc. Tried laying out the overscale peco OO version. Then tonight when setting out the trap points from the goods yard, I though.... Let's try a piece of wire... In my tool box I have some locking wire used on full sized trains. I piece was bent and with the end smoothed off it was inserted into a tie bar. With no support it still operated,, So far so good. Then I looked round for a piece of scrap plastic sheet to rough out a crank. Nothing in sight, but I chanced on a piece of vero board, hmmmmmm. A 3 hole by 3 hole square might be a useful test piece. It was cut out and with a peco track pin as a pivot the action was fine. Here is the test section. Close up of the crank in both positions Another shot showing the un-supported length that worked quite well. I have an idea to use the vero board to make some representative stools. I'll try putting that into practice tomorrow. Need to look through the pictures to spot the rodding runs on the prototype. here is the trap point lined up... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 (edited) Not much modelling time tonight, I got diverted explaining the principles of a static grass applicator to Linda, I'm sure her eyes glazed over at some point... Not sure what my late fathers car is doing here... I can remember it well, the smell of the leather seats when it had been standing in the sun and the whine from the 3 speed box..... Happy days... Enough of the nostalgia. The track is progressing towards the next baseboard joint. As mentioned before the sub-roadbed (a term picked up from modelling US style) is 10mm ply and in the section shown, it will form a means to secure the cosmetic curved baseboard extension. More of that later... Finally a look back toward Havant. I've got just over 7 feet to the window for a fiddle yard.. Forgot to mention I decided to use the Gaugemaster DCC80 switching units for the live frogs. I don't need to think so hard about the wiring 6855 Edited October 23, 2018 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 We had a Morris Oxford, same colour as your model. I don’t recall much about it, though I still have an amateurish Instamatic snap of it somewhere, parked on the prom’ at Colwyn Bay. I’d guess we’re talking 1967? I’d have to find it, and check the registration! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 24, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2018 We had a Morris Oxford, same colour as your model. I don’t recall much about it, though I still have an amateurish Instamatic snap of it somewhere, parked on the prom’ at Colwyn Bay. I’d guess we’re talking 1967? I’d have to find it, and check the registration! Best Simon What was the difference between a Morris Oxford and an Austin Cambridge? Sorry for the diversion, I'm enjoying the progress of Hayling. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 What was the difference between a Morris Oxford and an Austin Cambridge? Essentially badge-engineered versions of the same car. Slightly different trim and radiator grille differences. There were also MG, Wolseley and Riley versions of the same car. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 It would be interesting to know if the Riley and MG versions were "uprated" in the suspensions, brakes or power departments, my suspicion is that the prices of the "upmarket" marques were somewhat higher. Our Morris Oxford was augmented by the addition of an Esso "Tiger Tail" to the fuel filler, and an explanatory bumper sticker. (https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/history-advertising-quite-few-objects-43-esso-tiger-tails/1151980) I don't think I was old enough to have any real idea of the (lask of) sporting potential of Cowley's greatest... (top speed of 80.4 mph, 0–60 mph in 19.8 seconds). My father replaced it with a V4 Corsair, in which we reputedly reached an indicated100mph - but I doubt it could really do the ton. The Rover 2000tc that followed it in 1972 or 73 certainly could. sorry, miles off track! best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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