Warren Branch

[57xx]

Looking great Chris. That Vallejo 'Concrete' is a good colour for representing wood!

[chuffinghell]

1 minute ago, 57xx said:

Looking great Chris. That Vallejo 'Concrete' is a good colour for representing wood!

It won’t be that colour by time I’ve finished weathering it but I find it’s a good base and as you say a good representation of new untreated timber. It looks closer to timber than concrete 

[Mikkel]

4 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Floor fitted, top edge masked and interior airbrushed with Vallejo ‘concrete’

 

 

Interior masked off and exterior airbrushed with Vallejo ‘Panzer grey’

 

 

The T3 had Thomas Brakes with a crank handle each side at one end. These were made using Markits WD handrail knobs and brass rod

 

 

Test fit

 

To be continued….

 

Lovely print and build, Chris. And good to see the Thomas brake modelled. It is not my impression that the Thoams brakes lasted that long before replacement, though. But I may be wrong. What period are you aiming at for this one?

 

 

Edited June 22 by Mikkel
To clarify

[chuffinghell]

21 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

Lovely print and build, Chris. And good to see the Thomas brake modelled. It is not my imperssion that they lasted that long before replacement, though. But I may be wrong. What period are you aiming at for this one?

 

 

Thank you

 

I like to try and make sure anything I produce is as good a quality as I can and also make sure all the print supports are removed before curing so that only a little bit of sanding is required.
 

Nothing worse than receiving a print with the supports still attached after being fully cured because they can be very difficult to remove without causing damage.

I made the mistake of originally ignoring the Thomas brake and designed it for DC brakes

 

 

But with the help of @MrWolf and@Bluemonkey presents.... providing some very useful photos the T3 was in fact fitted with Thomas brakes but as you rightly say it wasn't a system that lasted long

 

I obviously sent anyone who had previously bought an incorrect design a correct replacement FOC

 

Neither myself or Bluemonkey could find any evidence that the T3 was converted to DC brakes, however the T4 was virtually identical other than being slightly wider and modified to suit DCIII brakes

 

As for dates I believe the T3 was originally built in 1896-1901 (22 in total) and the T4 followed in 1907-1908 (only 2 in total) so both versions are far too early for my layout being based in the mid thirties but ‘Warren Branch’ is fictional so I’m sure I could come up with a valid excuse plausible reason for them to have one….maybe?…..rule 1

Edited June 23 by chuffinghell

[Mikkel]

Thanks Chris. I have a plan to some day build a layout showing the rebuilding of Farthing station. I suppose this sort of wagon wouldn't be amiss in such a situation...

[chuffinghell]

Transfers were produced by @railtec-models from a combination of my drawing and a photo @MrWolf found

 

the original drawing above with the incorrect braking system and I’d also drawn it the wrong way round (I’m only human)

 

 

It was @MrWolf that first suggested the T3 wagon and as always was very helpful during the research stage also finding the photo above

 

Transfers applied once the gloss coat was dry

 

 

Although close to the photo decided to invoke Rule 1 and change ‘READING’ to ‘Return to Reading’

 

Mainly because I had already done the CC7 allocation as ‘Shrewsbury’ and thought it might look a little odd having them paired together with different allocations….the excuse being that the wagon was on loan from Reading and would be returned

 

 

….plus I think it looks better with cursive font

Rule 1 is my best friend 😉

 

Edited June 23 by chuffinghell

[57xx]

On 22/06/2024 at 14:45, chuffinghell said:

 

As for dates I believe the T3 was originally built in 1896-1901 (22 in total) and the T4 followed in 1907-1908 (only 2 in total) so both versions are far too early for my layout being based in the mid thirties but ‘Warren Branch’ is fictional so I’m sure I could come up with a valid excuse plausible reason for them to have one….maybe?…..rule 1

 

I'm sure the T3's probably lasted 30 odd years. If in doubt, you could widen the body for a T4 or T7, or even widen the body and change the trussing to angle instead of bar for a T9/10 (latter with self-contained buffers).

[chuffinghell]

52 minutes ago, 57xx said:

 

I'm sure the T3's probably lasted 30 odd years. If in doubt, you could widen the body for a T4 or T7, or even widen the body and change the trussing to angle instead of bar for a T9/10 (latter with self-contained buffers).

These are being researched, however, I’m unable to find photos of the T4 (probably because only two were made) so not sure about the transfers required

 

I’m thinking of doing the T5 at some point

 

As far as the T9/10 I would first have to source suitable buffer heads that are readily available

 

Edited June 23 by chuffinghell

[57xx]

42 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

These are being researched, however, I’m unable to find photos of the T4 (probably because only two were made) so not sure about the transfers required

 

I’m thinking of doing the T5 at some point

 

As far as the T9/10 I would first have to source suitable buffer heads that are readily available

 

The T9 would be the same buffers as the others. For the T10 the best bet would be for self contained buffers would be Dave Frank's ones from Lanarkshire Model Supplies. They would just need a 2mm hole in the buffer beam.

[chuffinghell]

8 minutes ago, 57xx said:

ones from Lanarkshire Model Supplies. They would just need a 2mm hole in the buffer beam.

Not a big fan of white metal castings so I’d rather it be part of the print and only requiring steel buffer heads

 

 

but out of interest which one specifically?

 

Edited June 23 by chuffinghell

[57xx]

You'd need B022.

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_083.htm

 

The quality is excellent and if you're worried about robustness, I'd say they are easily as strong as the resin. These buffers are many people's go-to replacement for kits.

[chuffinghell]

Matt varnish applied and Thomas brake crank handles fitted

 

 

 

[chuffinghell]

Wanted an ‘in service’ weathering so just give it a spray of frame dirt and because I’m weird I spray my wheels and couplings separately to get full coverage

 

 

Adding drops of grey to the original ‘concrete’ and painting a few planks, adding a few more drops and painting a few more and so on then gave the whole lot a dusting with dark earth weathering powder but it was too dark so I then went over it again with white power (weathering powder! nothing illegal!) followed by nuln oil in the grooves
 

 

Fully assembled

 

 

Paired up with the CC7

 

 

Thrown on the layout

 

[chuffinghell]

Unfortunately being on holiday allows my mind to wonder too much and I wondered if I could do my CC2 in O gauge, I don’t know why?…

 

 

…Although I didn’t realise how much more expensive wheel sets are for O gauge which is kinda putting me off

 

No doubt this thought will be rattling around in my head until I talk myself out of it 🤪

It’s strange because usually when we come to Wales I start wanting to model narrow gauge, O-16.5 perhaps?

 

Edited yesterday at 17:11 by chuffinghell

[Bluemonkey presents....]

14 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

 I wondered if I could do my CC2 in O gauge, I don’t know why?…

 

…Although I didn’t realise how much more expensive wheel sets are for O gauge which is kinda putting me off

 

No doubt this thought will be rattling around in my head until I talk myself out of it 🤪

Yep everything is at least twice as plenty plus 5%.

[chuffinghell]

11 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

Yep everything is at least twice as plenty plus 5%.

A bit unfair for those modelling O gauge.

 

The wheels are 4.5 times the price of the equivalent in OO gauge!….scandalous!